My '51

[hazetguy]

here's some other stuff i've done recently.
on a side note, i'll be trailering the Beetle home in a couple weeks!

took off the 3 fuse block cover in the engine compartment, to find the original paper tag.

cleaned up the original emergency brake knob. 25 year old masking tape is nasty.

much better:

slowly but surely the small stuff is getting done.....
_________________
thebucket: I invested in hoodride, now DBD won't return my call?
hazetguy: invested?
thebucket: Yeah Haze, its where people put money into a company in hopes of a return on their money

[splitjunkie]

[bwaz]

hoping not to hijack this, but is the braided wire protecting available still from one of the suppliers?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[scvw]

I love this thread not only for Jons detailed pics(wish I had kept my Mavica) but how he gets into the nerdy details. Can't wait for the car to arrive.
_________________
58 Coral Red ragtop(Diana's car)
57 PG/SG standard
63 Ruby Red SC
SOUTHERN INTEGRITY AIRCOOLERS


WTB - Sigla popout glass like in my ad.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1667775

[johnshenry]

[eurodub]

is that handbrake knob split only and correct? i am asking because my 52 split, you know, the abused one, has the entire emergency brake tunnel section upgraded, now uses a later handbrake lever with shorter cables, but with the same knob. is it possible that during the upgrade someone kept the knob only? has the same markings. however the later lever seems a little longer and hits my 54 BKS toilet bowl shifter lock.
_________________
1960 1200 model 117 deluxe ragtop
1974 T2 Westfalia Campmobile
1976 MK1 Golf

[hazetguy]

some progress:
after a year of being stored in CT, i finally got up there and was able to trailer the beetle back to NC, so it is now at my house! and as i was unloading it off the trailer, someone pulled into my driveway and told me of a '49 and a '50 that are within 1.5 miles from here. i think i will be checking on those soon!
i had previously removed the engine which had the correct generator and regulator, both date stamped 1G (jan '51). after i placed a wanted ad in the classifieds, i was able to "find" a 1G stamped 383 distributor. thanks again Simon! when i got the car back home, the first thing i did was remove the starter to see what the date code was. it was 12F (dec 50!!)!! except for the 1G distributor, i am certain that these Bosch components are original to the car (which was built in early March 1951). now all i need to find is a 1G star coil.

components:

_________________
thebucket: I invested in hoodride, now DBD won't return my call?
hazetguy: invested?
thebucket: Yeah Haze, its where people put money into a company in hopes of a return on their money

[Jake Martinez]

cool stuff. keep the pictures soming and more info on the 49 and 50's .
_________________
58 euro vert
63 bug ruby
64 sunroof notch
65 bug
67 standard

[mightymouse]

Sweet car, and love the thread.
_________________
Nothing can stop the man with the right mental attitude from achieving his goal; nothing on earth can help the man with the wrong mental attitude.
Thomas Jefferson


Note to EVERYONE.
Know your ZDDP levels or you WILL lose a cam and lifters.

[hazetguy]

i finally got the metal parts for the fuel tap back from the plater. on the first attempt, they lost the little bell shaped cup for the bottom. needless to say, i was rather upset. so after i purchased another fuel tap from the samba classifieds (just for that part!!) i got that cup plated and now the tap is cleaned and reassembled, ready to go.
i used a wolfsburg west gasket for the cap-to-housing seal. it was the most dimensionally accurate reproduction of an original.
the original copper screen was in good condition, so it got a light vinegar bath and cleaned.
i did not want to go super crazy and polish the housing and cap, so they just got acceptably cleaned and left as-is. the brass parts were cleaned and hand polished.

before pics:

disassembled:

cleaned, plated, and assembled:

fuel tap gasket comparisons:
from left to right: original, ZarWerks, WolfsburgWest, and "NOS" purchased in classifieds.

_________________
thebucket: I invested in hoodride, now DBD won't return my call?
hazetguy: invested?
thebucket: Yeah Haze, its where people put money into a company in hopes of a return on their money

[hazetguy]

ok, i finally pieced together a set of heater boxes which i think are as about as close i am going to come to what is "correct" for my 3/51 built car. i would really appreciate any "correctness" comments on these.
i have read several other threads, and:
- i think the operating lever should only have one hole (the lower hole is easily welded shut).
-fairly certain the operating lever pivot should be the "internal" type and not the "test tube" type, but i am not going to worry about that.
-i think the box halves should be held together with hex head screws, not the round headed screws they have now. i have hex headed slotted screws and correct serrated lock washers. should they be plain hex head bolts?
-the heaterboxes have the external bracket where the exhaust pipe connects to the box.
-the "shoeboxes" have factory reinforcements under the slots where the tabs from the flaps pass through.
-the "shoeboxes" have 3 screw holes each at the rear where the upper cylinder tin attaches.
-the "shoeboxes have the tabs for the "X" flange plate. i am hoping my '51 should still have the "X" plate flange, any comments on when that ended?

some pics:

_________________
thebucket: I invested in hoodride, now DBD won't return my call?
hazetguy: invested?
thebucket: Yeah Haze, its where people put money into a company in hopes of a return on their money

[johnshenry]

- i think the operating lever should only have one hole (the lower hole is easily welded shut).

I think you are right.

-fairly certain the operating lever pivot should be the "internal" type and not the "test tube" type, but i am not going to worry about that.

Yes, it should be the internal pivot kind. They are pretty rare. I have one set that I am saving for my '51. I'll look through my parts and let you know if I have any others.

-i think the box halves should be held together with hex head screws, not the round headed screws they have now. i have hex headed slotted screws and correct serrated lock washers. should they be plain hex head bolts?

They are slotted hex heads and usually Kamax. You can usually "make some" by just carefully slotting some M6 Kamax bolts with a carbide disc and Dremel.

-the heaterboxes have the external bracket where the exhaust pipe connects to the box.

Yes, correct for '51.

-the "shoeboxes" have factory reinforcements under the slots where the tabs from the flaps pass through.

I think so. It seems odd to me that they dropped that in the later boxes though as this is a very well know wear-out area.

-the "shoeboxes" have 3 screw holes each at the rear where the upper cylinder tin attaches.

Yep.

-the "shoeboxes have the tabs for the "X" flange plate. i am hoping my '51 should still have the "X" plate flange, any comments on when that ended?

I am not sure. I know they used flanged boxes without X plates into '52, but not sure when the plate was dropped. Don't recall if PR addresses this or not.

Geez, and people accuse ME of being a detail nit-pick.....
_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab

[nlorntson]

[hazetguy]

thanks for the "confirmations" John.
these are about as close to "correct" as i am going to get anytime soon, so i am going to go with these and not worry about the pivot "test tube" part being incorrect. it took me long enough to collect these parts, looking for the non "test tube" boxes is not worth the hassle to me right now.
i think i'm going to put an "X" plate on it, just because i can.
i do have correct hex head slotted screws/serrated lock washers i have removed from junk heaterboxes over the years, so they will be installed when the boxes get reassembled.

interesting about the tab reinforcements Nancy. i looked at the boxes i have, and they seem to have the spot weld at the same location but a couple have what look to be a small blob of weld on the side. if you look at the pic i posted above, you can see one like that.
_________________
thebucket: I invested in hoodride, now DBD won't return my call?
hazetguy: invested?
thebucket: Yeah Haze, its where people put money into a company in hopes of a return on their money

[johnshenry]

[johnshenry]

The Dec '52 manual shows the "tall cup" design.

_________________
John Henry

'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab

[hazetguy]

the one i redid was the one that came with the car. i'd guess it was original to the car, but i can't be sure, i have not been with the car for the last 60 years.
i have one of the first style you mention. the cup is steel and does not seem like a good design, since the bottom of the cup is, well, cupped upwards caused by overzealous tightening of the screw.
it's in the process of being redone too.

you can see the bottom part of the VW logo:

_________________
thebucket: I invested in hoodride, now DBD won't return my call?
hazetguy: invested?
thebucket: Yeah Haze, its where people put money into a company in hopes of a return on their money

[virtanen]

I believe there were couple of fuel tap suppliers (as many other parts too), so they have some differences from each other.

[hazetguy]

well, not much major progress to report. i've just been gathering parts, cleaning a few things, but no major work to the '51 lately. i finally got all the correct wheel cylinders, window crank handles, etc....
i am down to only needing a few minor engine parts, and while going through some parts today, i found a fan i had forgotten about.

which fan would be "correct" (or at least "most correct" ) for a 3/51 25hp? both fans have the same number of fins.
i have my guess, but i would like some other opinions. thanks.

_________________
thebucket: I invested in hoodride, now DBD won't return my call?
hazetguy: invested?
thebucket: Yeah Haze, its where people put money into a company in hopes of a return on their money

[nlorntson]