Change your ignition switch

[akyrie]

I have a AAZ in an 82. The problem was after the initial glowplug cycle, the light went out but I still wasn't getting 12 volts to my fuel cutoff solenoid. I couldn't figure it out, the relay was working fine, all the wires were correct. For the short term I hooked up a toggle switch to give power to the solenoid. this worked fine, but the nagging question was persistent. Then I remembered that since I haven't changed the switch on this relatively new to me vehicle I "should." A Couple days ago I replaced the ign. switch and found that I didn't need my toggle switch any more. That made me a happy camper.
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Although I got a funny message from the Porsche guys, it read, "what a mighty ship that you must sail"
....has anyone else received that?

82 AHU DK, 1950's Puch-black

[57 Zwitter?]

This thread is also valid for a 99 Cabrio! I have been going crazy trying to figure out why my newly aquitred Cabrio lights have been going off and on randomly, wipers quit working etc etc, light shined on Marble head! De Ja Vu... Ignition switch is the same as one I changed on my vanagon a few years ago

[jimf909]

Sitting around on a lazy afternoon in camp I thought I'd pull the new ignition switch out of the parts box and go about installing it.

A few observations:

1) Thanks Ben for an outstanding write-up on removing these dash and replacing the switch!
2) No Vanagon should ever be stranded due to a poor ignition switch. There are several possible easy fixes that can be done from the comfort of the driver's seat. The simplest being: remove two Phillips screws securing the steering column plastic shroud > pull the plug from the ignition switch > plug in a new ignition switch and turn it with flathead screwdriver. That can easily be done in less than five minutes.
3) While it may not be necessary to preemptively replace the ignition switch, it's not a bad idea to take a look to see if it appears damaged.

In my van's case, the existing switch looked brand new and said "Germany" on it so I reinstalled it and put the new switch back in the parts box.

Original switch on the right, replacement from GW on the left...

Remove the plastic steering column cover, pull this plug, jump the connections or install a new switch and you'll be back on your way. No stranding necessary...

It's a long thread, some good posts (in addition to Ben's)...

[jimf909]

Ha! So a few weeks after I deemed the old ignition switch to be good, the "key-in" switch got grumpy and stopped recognizing the key was OUT.

Also, when trouble shooting I saw the horn ring and horn shoe contact were worn and ready to cause trouble,

New ignition switch, new horn ring and new turn signal switch with horn contact shoe...

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- Jim

[Abscate]

There is always apparent conflict between those operating on run to fail models and preventative maintenance models because risk aversion varies

Neither model is “correct“ and even the economics vary.

Rtf generally gets more life and value from parts costs. A single incident requiring a roadside intervention can wipe out that advantage

I run two cars on strict pm, one on strict rtf, and three on a mixed model
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.ssS!

[jimf909]

PM is becoming less reliable since some old parts sometimes last longer than the new parts they're replaced with under PM. Replace the old fuel pump with a possibly less reliable new one and keep the old one on hand as a spare? Keep the OG unit in place? My sample size is way too small to know.
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- Jim

[bear15]

So I replaced the switch, made sure all my connections are good and clean, put in a new stater, etc I it still does not consistency start.

Any help appreciated.

[PDXWesty]

[bear15]

We have a 1982 diesel Manuel stick shift westy.

[Sodo]