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ac78
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Although I would love to get the new reworked CS heads, I cannot afford it right now. So I am down to Headflow Masters($325 each) and Rimco($225 each) for stock rebuild. Almost every forum post about Heads includes Headflow Masters and few with Rimco. When I called, both said they could likely work with mine. So I am now torn. I could use the extra $200 going with Rimco toward the Mahle P&C kit.

I have searched through a lot of head threads and a couple post's said not to use Rimco(from older posts) and I have found no negatives for Headflow Masters. I know both companies have recieved different heads from everyone here, but does anyone have real mileage history or quality feedback from either? I need a push over the cliff on my way to UPS...
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Either would be fine as they both have a long history of VW T4 work. RIMCO was sold back about 2 years ago when the owner was old and tired and just wanted out after many years. The new owner has really worked hard to hold up morale and keep the same staff who have the experience. I would not hesitate to use either but I think the price will be close to the same for both once they are inspected. We used RIMCO.
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ac78
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pulled 1/2 tonight and this head looks very good compared to the other. It is a vw head and does not look reworked, but there were 2 interesting findings.

1. The No.1 Intake rocker screw was sheared to close to the arm and I found the missing piece when I took out the push rod tubes. I think that was a big part of my pinging when mashing the pedal??

2. The lower left head bolt had 2 washers, while the rest had one. My thought is that the stud didn't go all the way into the case and they needed more threads.

I also have a question about the plenum(It's still on). It appears that the 2 bolts that hold it on are through the case. I would like to take it off, but wanted to find out if removing them would alter the integrity of the case?

So far the only thing I wish I would have done prior to removing the heads, is degreasing everything. Other than that, this has been one of the most satisfying things I have ever done. Very Happy

Thanks for your help.
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Last edited by ac78 on Tue Apr 05, 2011 9:58 pm; edited 2 times in total
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go ahead and remove the bolts, as long as you retorque them properly when you're all done the case will be fine.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

take lots of photos for yourself when you go to put things back together.
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ac78
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks BD. That is the only thing left to take off before I wait for parts. I couln't find my snap ring pliers to take the pistons off tonight. Based on the oil high and low on the case, broken fins and my wet plugs, I am replacing the P&C's too.

I have decided to send the heads to Rimco and order their Mahle 94 mm P&C kit for $300, which is the cheapest I've found. I also want to replace every seal that I can get to. I was debating buying the full seal kit, but want to get the Viton pushrod seals. Should I just ala carte the seals I need? I have up'd my budget to $1200 from some craigslist sales.


I am going to clean up and try to paint the tins and air cooler though the weekend.

Both Heads had the spacer on the head vs. the bottom of the cylinder and flakey stuff where the cylinder went into the case. Is that what's left of the paper gasket or permatex?
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ac78
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took alot last night. I will admit I was a little nervous taking all the fuel injection off, but I feel pretty good about it with all the previous vacuum troubleshooting and there's no turning back now.

My main concern right now is just putting the heads back on like Jake did in the video. Everything I am replacing is stock, but I can't stop thinking about all the posts regarding deck height, clearances, hand lapping valves(I still don't know what that means.) He didn't really mention any of that and just put it all back together with no worrys.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing is really quite stock any more. AMC heads have a built in raised step that VW heads lack so there is a difference in how they must be installed. When installing AMC heads you need to take into consideration the thickness of this step when figuring deck height. As you probably know when using either head you need to remove the "head gasket" sealing ring and make up for it with a thicker cylinder base gasket.

If you have new heads or flycut heads along with new jugs you shouldn't have to lap the heads and cylinders to each other.

Assuming you have paid someone else to do your head work they will have done the valve lapping for you, so this is something you don't need to worry about.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you will be fine. Just ask what questions you have on each step and we'll get you the answers. When you speak with RIMCO, they will flycut the heads a little to clean up the mating surfaces. Ask Todd to CC the heads for you and sell you stainless shims about what he thinks you will need. We used .060 on our mahle/RIMCO combination engine. That gave us 7.3:1 compression. The shims will go under the cylinders to make up for the lack of head gaskets per the TSB and also the material flycut off the heads.

I used a small paintbrush with copper coat on the tops of the cylinders to help seal them. Came back 24 hours later and retorqued the heads. They will loosen a little overnight. The stuff you are asking about at the base of the cylinders is gasket sealer. I used red high temp silicone. It doesn't take much.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started measuring tonight and decided to stop after the first and ask some q's.

#1
50cc's
.40mm step(accurate as I can be with my feeler guage and index finger)
.55mm deck height
Based on the calculators this gives me 10.2:1

I have been scouring the threads on add the step or don't add the step. It appears most say add the step into the deck height. So that would put me at:

#1
50cc's
.95mm or .038in deck height
New Calculation gives me 9.7:1

Because I am so far away from 7.3:1, I was thinking I am doing something wrong or I'll need to a major shim. I was using pretty snug, as my reference since I didn't have access to a torque wrench tonight. What do you guys usually torqe them to?

Thanks!
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

are you cylinders sitting right on the case or do they have a shim under the cylinder when you measure deck height? You will need something robust to hold them on. Don't put anything on the cylinders that might nick them and cause a leak.

Here is a photo of a set Phil made. I used something similar but made of simple thick alumunim bars with holes for the studs and a long and short spacer to bolt it down. I used a depth mic to test the depth.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no shim at the base, just the cylinder against the case. I am using a 1/2" thick triangle that is smooth on the bottom and feelers.

I did notice that I had the arrow pointing the wrong way, so I was going to pull it and put it on #2. I wasn't gentle enough because the piston came out.

That was my queue to be done for the night... Is a spray carb cleaner a safe to use on a piston?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ac78 wrote:
There is no shim at the base, just the cylinder against the case. I am using a 1/2" thick triangle that is smooth on the bottom and feelers.

I did notice that I had the arrow pointing the wrong way, so I was going to pull it and put it on #2. I wasn't gentle enough because the piston came out.

That was my queue to be done for the night... Is a spray carb cleaner a safe to use on a piston?


soap and hot water. You will need shims under the barrels to lower compression.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you running flat topped pistons or dished one? If dished you need to add the volume of the dish to the head volume.
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ac78
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are dished Mahle. The newer threads show they should be 11cc. I'll see about a dropper to comfirm. Adding 11 cc to the calculation, should put me at adding a .06in shim to get 7.3:1. That's still seems big, right?

Is it better to set torque for consistency? How much?

Thanks.
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ac78
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finished measuring tonight and ended up with the same(to the best of my abilities) all around with a deck height of .55mm. I checked the step again and felt .40mm was still good. So based on the following, I need a .06" cylinder base shim.

Deck Height- .55mm or .022"
Head Step- .40mm or .016"
Head CC's- 50
Dish CC's- 11
-------------------------
Cylinder Shim needed .06" to get real close to 7.3:1

I sure was hoping I wasn't going to have to order anything else... I'll just have to tell her, this is the last thing and I really mean it this time! Very Happy
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 2:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A .060" shim is going to give you a pretty ineffective 0.100" squish area. I am guessing that you are not figuring your cylinder head and dish volumes accurately. I prefer to use a 10cc or 20cc syringe and fill it repeatedly over using a larger syringe.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
A .060" shim is going to give you a pretty ineffective 0.100" squish area. I am guessing that you are not figuring your cylinder head and dish volumes accurately. I prefer to use a 10cc or 20cc syringe and fill it repeatedly over using a larger syringe.


we had to use .060" shims to get the proper 7.3:1. The engine has a stock FI webcam 142 (solid lifter) which is the same as a 1/2 band cam in a 914-4 2.0 GA motor. Even with egr, a cat and stock muffler, it pulls strong all the way to over 5000 RPM. Temps are normal.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The heads were cc'd when rebuilt and written on them. For the dish I used a 10 cc tube and once I got to 11, it could not take anymore without spilling onto the top of the piston. That seemed consistent with a lot of posts I read.

Skgent- you said you used a .06 shim, was that inches, just like I need? Was is a standard shim from Todd or a performance shim ?

Thanks!
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ac78 wrote:
The heads were cc'd when rebuilt and written on them. For the dish I used a 10 cc tube and once I got to 11, it could not take anymore without spilling onto the top of the piston. That seemed consistent with a lot of posts I read.

Skgent- you said you used a .06 shim, was that inches, just like I need? Was is a standard shim from Todd or a performance shim ?

Thanks!


at the time Todd had .060" and .040". I took both and sent the .040" back. Last time I sent someone in all he had was .060" as he was out of the .040" for the type 4. I had to hone them a tiny bit on 2000 grit paper to get rid of the small burrs. Our heads were flycut with no step so the clearance between the head and piston is the only clearance there is. I have the number at home but it wasn't excessive. I used a couple of pieces of solder at the wrist pins crushed to measure it and if I recall it was quite acceptable for a street motor. What people need to realize in part is that all these measurements that are made today on street motors were not made at the time these engines were being built back in the 1970's. An engine made to spec today is much more precise than one 40 years ago made to the same specs. For example - my new mahle pistons were only about 1/2 gram apart straight from the factory. In the 1970s that would have been 3 to 6 grams. My rods for example were maybe 4 - 8 grams apart before they were balanced - and those were the closest of 7 rods.
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