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Mystery sucking/swooshing sound- constant
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ac78
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. I feel like my numbers are good enough based on multiple mock up's and am ordering a .06" shim to get 7.29. I am confident the pistons will not be slapping the head. I have looked at if I am wrong at different calculations on cc's and height and my worst case scenario + or - is that I will be at 7.0-7.4 and I feel satisified with that outcome.

Thanks for all your help!
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assume you used an online calculator to get the ratio or did you do the math manually?
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ac78
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually used a couple things. One was an online calulator http://www.msgulfcoastvwclub.org/TechPages/Tech10.html and the other day I dowloaded an awesome spreadsheet from thesamba, just don't remember the thread. My main concern was just that it would be too high.
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ac78
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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 9:08 pm    Post subject: Almost done, but have a few questions. Reply with quote

I am almost finshed with this project with motor still on the stand, but have a few questions.

Here's where I'm at(3 pics):

http://78vwwesty.shutterfly.com/pictures/29#31

1. After installing the rockers with adjustment screws all the way out , I was turning the motor with the fan into #1 position, I encountered a lot of resistance and then super loud PING! My heart sank and I stopped right there. I checked the push rods and I did find a couple not quite in the cup. I pulled the rockers and pushrods. The ends were fine and I was able to roll them straight. I reinstalled carefully lining them up and I am able to rotate the motor with normal resistance. I know I'm late in asking, could that have broken anything else?

2. I have rebuilt heads and new(used, much better than mine were) exhaust manifolds. They don't slide right on. Is it normal that you would need to use a lot of force and a mallet/hammer to install the manifold over the new studs? The way they lined up, I feel I'll have to beat them into submission.

3. I was thinking about flipping the motor over(still on the stand) to get the exhaust installed or at least to the heat exchangers. I had tipped it a bit(both sides) for a dry run on the manifolds and I noticed I had a dribble of oil on one tube from each side. I had installed new Viton seals and was careful putting them in. I did not install new pushrod tubes, but they looked good. I am going to pull the 2 leakers and check them out. I am also going to pull the drain plug and sump plate to see if I can get any more residual oil out. Any thoughts?

Thanks!
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I know I'm late in asking, could that have broken anything else?

Not likely if you were hand turning it, lesson learned for next time Wink
Quote:
They don't slide right on. Is it normal that you would need to use a lot of force and a mallet/hammer to install the manifold over the new studs?

No, most require jacking between the pipes to spread them and some twisting with a big pipe wrench to fit properly, once they slide on nicely run a long file or belt sander across the sealing surfaces of both ports so they are flat and parallel.
Quote:
I had tipped it a bit(both sides) for a dry run on the manifolds and I noticed I had a dribble of oil on one tube from each side

If it leaks on the stand it'll pour out when it's running, did you polish the bores the tubes go into on the heads and case?, maybe you pinched a ring going in?, either way not good.
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ac78
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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's good to hear on the ping ! We'll know for sure soon.

I did the marker and file thing this afternoon. They are shiny on top and I also worked the sides the same amount like Jake's video.

I did not polish anything on the tubes. I think I will have an emergency budget meeting about new pushrod tubes. I don't want to take any chances and I won't be able to get back at it until next weekend anyway.

Edited- Any thoughts about flipping the motor upside down with residual oil after draining? It would make the exhaust manifolds a bit easier to install...

Thanks BD!
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ac78
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been trying to reinstall the motor for about 3 1/2 hours now. I have the flywheel at the bell housing but cannot get it any farther. There is nothing in the way on the outside and I tried slightly hand turning to get lined up but no success. I could feel it catch, but with all the wiggling I hand turn again. I probably only have an inch to go.

Any ideas? Or is this the part where I really need a 2nd person to push?

Thanks!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the tranny is in gear and the wheels are on the ground and you can still rotate the engine, then you are not splining up for some reason. Maybe you don't have the clutch aligned well enough or maybe the angles are all wrong between the engine and bellhousing. Might as well drop it back out and check the clutch alignment again. Did you check that the clutch disc would slip onto the tranny input shaft when you had things apart. Always a good idea to do this.
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't read the whole thread but you did use a clutch tool to install the clutch?

I found it is easier to put a T4 engine in as a unit with the trans.
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ac78
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took it back out and bagged it for the night. I will look into the clutch alignment. My garage is not perfectly level and i did have the bus turned around from how I took it out. Upon inspection the bottom side was always further in the bel than the top. When I would jack up, the top would seperate more and push the bottom in. I'll try again tomorrow.

Thanks for the help!
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...;start=120

Read his last 2 pages for some help, hints and tricks. Wink
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ac78
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I managed to get it in and running. It runs like crap but it's running.
It took a whille for it to be able to idle at all to get it warmed up. I only had about a half gallon of gas too. I changed all the fuel lines and filter, would that make any difference??

I started at zero lash to make sure the lifters pumped up and thought that was the rough running part. I checked after about 30 mins of starting/revving and none were spongy and set them to 1.5 turns. It got too late so I will check timing in the morning. I did not remove the distributor this whole time, so I thought it should be good.

It feels/sounds like its not running on all cylinders. I mash the gas at the start an it revs high(probably 2500-2700 rpm) for a bit and then will die if I leave my foot on the gas. My multimeter has a tach and I'll tell you for sure. We'll see what tomorrow brings.
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northernbus77
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ac78 wrote:

It feels/sounds like its not running on all cylinders. I mash the gas at the start an it revs high(probably 2500-2700 rpm) for a bit and then will die if I leave my foot on the gas. My multimeter has a tach and I'll tell you for sure. We'll see what tomorrow brings.


Does it pop/fart when it dies? You may have knocked a vaccuum line loose while changing your fuel lines? check the brake booster hose that goes into the intake.
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ac78
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the daylight, I found the AFM and Injector 4 unplugged. Plugging those in didn't seem to help dramatically.

I checked all my vac lines and appear to be tight, although once get it started my vac struggles between 5-10.

I saw the post earlier today about fuel injectors not clicking/spraying, but before I go through all that, should my vac be stable at 15ish regarless of injectors?

Thanks!
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ac78
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made some progress today. By disconnecting the Temp 2 sensor, I managed to get it running enough to get warmed up for a compression test. I wanted to make sure I didn't have catostrophic failure.
#1- 144
#2- 146
#3- 140
#4- 148

What do you think?

Looked good to me. While I took at the spark plugs, I found that #2 did not appear to be getting fuel. All except #2 were dry black sooty, which Bentley says is too rich air/fuel mixture.
http://78vwwesty.shutterfly.com/pictures/32

That lead me to the FI connector for #2 and one side of the connector is mangled. With a very small flat head screwdriver, i tried to bring the contacts back up without success. I pulled back the coating a bit and it's wire 15 and 41 for #2. I hope to get away with repairing that connector. I couldn't find any full harnesses in the classifieds. Would this work for me?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1086208

I don't really want to take to whole harness out, but does anyone know how much these harnesses are? Or if the sell just a connector I could splice? http://www.kyleautomotivespecialties.com
I am calling tomorrow, but curious tonight.

One last thing. My vacuum is acting backwards. When I accelerate it goes down. Is this because the air/fuel mixture is all out of whack?

Thanks!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can buy new plugs for the injectors, your local NAPA probably has them or can get them as they are widely used. Make sure you use a very good, well sealed splice when you connect the replacement plug to the wiring harness.

The vacuum goes down as you open the throttle, that is 100% normal.
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ac78
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll see if I can find something local. I was going to find a vacuum readings site to double check, I just couldn't remember if it snapped up or down after mashing the gas and letting off.

Edited- An injector not working would cause my vacuum issue and spark plugs to be black from too rich, right?
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ac78
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wanted to update this thread and let you know the camper is alive now.

The fuel injector connector was the fix, but then I had in increasingly loud clacking sound that seemed to be coming from the fan area. Ultimately, I pulled the motor again(much easier the 2nd time around) and found that the flywheel was loose. Fixed that and it fired right up. once the it got warm, it would stall. Vacuum was okay, but still wouldn't stay running. I put the fuel pressure gauge on and it was pegged at 100psi. Once it got warm again, the fuel pressure would start to fall and that's what made it die. I spent the weekend with Bentley and long story short(er), I forgot to unclamp my return line to the tank. Took that off and Eureka! It Runs as long as I want it to.(I will add that to the "stupidest thing you've ever done" thread, so far.

Now I have a few last questions. The bus has run for about 30 mins total with 100+ fuel pressure. I had all new hoses and injectors and don't seem to any leaks, in fact I feel very fortunate to not have had a massive fire.

1. The only notable thing is that now I do not have any residual pressure after a few minutes. Could that have hurt the injectors? I am going to run through Randy's test for that. Right now I am leaning toward the backflow valve is toast. The engine starts up right away, should I be in any hurry to test this?

2. My first set of plugs we Black while I was trouble shooting the injector connector. I bought a new set and installed after I pulled the motor again. I have not pulled them yet, but am assuming they are black as well from way too much fuel in the system. I will be getting another set shortly because on the test drive, it didn't quite have all the power that it did at idle. Did I completely foul the plugs?

Tonight I'm checking my valves again, adding new cover gaskets and rechecking timing. I feel good that I'm going to get to drive for a while.

Thanks for all your help!
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look for a kinked hose from the fuel pressure regualtor to the tank. Or one that still has the hose clamp on it from the engine pull.
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ac78
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I removed the clamp from the back side of the regulator, that was making my pressure peg. Its now 42 with vac hose and 34 without, which was where it was the last few years.

It seems great while revving at idle, but under load while moving, it feels a little weak. I'm thinking that is from the carbon on the plugs. I haven't driven it more than a mile. If I can get to highway speed for a bit, is that something that can burn off?

Thanks.
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