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My Red 1972 Microbus Deluxe - rolling resto/ patchjob
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Mountain Minstrel
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I LOVE California Laughing
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73kombi
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Hey, I'm glad you 'won' that Alt/bolt cover...you both NEED it, and you are taking great pride in your bus! Very Happy

peace
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rustbus
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey guys.

So today i was in the bus, taking out the tranny and shift linkage - wanting to clean and redo all wearing bushings etc..

I pulled the motor out last week, going to put in a new clutch, plate, and flywheel.

then new clutch cable and bowden tube

- parts are on the way, so its disassemble and cleaning for now. fun stuff, i forgot how much i love getting 1/8th of a turn at a time on a bolt!

just got all things disconnected and CV's bagged:

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tranny out, greasy mess, but not too rusty:

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wire brushed. pile of crap came off today.

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Looks like the PO had used the wrong tranny mount, the "arms" were only engaged in the front block about half way. i salvaged this proper one from the parts bus.:

Also, both my upper tranny bolts differ. which is correct? one is longer with a bit of a tip and 15mm head. the other fits nice with a 17mm head. which to replace?

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Heres all the shifting related bits i pulled. is the shift rod connecting bush supposed to be angled like that? all original VW parts, unfortunately the blocks are worn. note VW didnt finish the welding of the shift rod, I should call warranty on that! My clutch cable retainer/bowden tube holder is busted too. i hope the parts bus one is in better shape... maybe just weld this one up?

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any tips on what else i should do down here, am I supposed to grease that shift rod lightly or not? the shift rod jammed a bit coming out, was that just the front bushing or is there shit in there i should clean it out somehow?
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Krautski
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

72s are the business. Still the proper front end, but with the better motor. Applause
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rustbus
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Krautski wrote:
72s are the business. Still the proper front end, but with the better motor. Applause


thats right, I couldn't agree more. this thing is great. love the styling, love the big (er) power, early low lights look the shaz, disc brakes.

the 1700. nice motor.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bolt with the 15mm head is the correct one.
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borninabus wrote:
a measurement of your rod would be extremely useful.

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rustbus
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet, thanks Vdubtech, hope i have some spares of those too.

I've been reading threads relating to the full shift linkage/nose cone stuff.

I see the option to "upgrade" to a steel shift ball (inside th nose cone) but i also read somewhere that those are for drag racing, and a casual driving bus would be better off with the original plastic one. anyone have an opinion? I only see the steel one @ CIP

Also, I saw somewhere someone suggested to modify the shift rod to accept a third rod bushing ala the 77/78 models. is this worthwhile? If so, where to locate it? I mean, i assume to drill holes, but at what measurement.?
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rustbus
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:20 am    Post subject: recent effort Reply with quote

over the last couple weekends i;ve been cleaning up the undercarrige, engine compartment, re-tapping bumper mounts (ugh.) pulling out poor accessory wiring, greasing, cleaning and treating the grounds and lighting connections, (again) and whatnot. worst part was finding out how bad my nose is rusted out from all the sandblasting i did as a boy. look at what i knocked/blew/shook out of th efront. its rusted through the nose skin Crying or Very sad

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picked up a spray bomb of colormatched Sierra Yellow for the engine compartment. I know my bus isnt yellow anymore, but this blended the engine compartment in nice, and saved me trying to change the color

before, during and after pics. one more spray can woudl have sealed the deal, but @ $30 per, this is good enough until i replace the bad metal:


before:
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During: all cleaned, but still looking dirty. thought generic yellow paint would do it, but it just looks terrible. I was going to leave it like this until i picked up a mig on some battery tray metal as a start, but, the might end up being next winter stuff to do - im just going to fibregalss that battery tray until i start rust repair. could be years yet:

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OK, so the $30 paint goes on, i really like the results, even makes my hacked in hatch look remotely stock:

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anyhow, relatively productive. its tough, as the bus is stored in the shop at work, and thats 15min drive just to get started. shouldnt moan, theres room and its heated. sucks when the field guys actually want to do work in there, with my engine on the worktable and bus up on jackstands!
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Bradgt74
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good rustbus! I've got this topic bookmarked.

Well, they do sell a lower nose section if that panel needs to be replaced. Otherwise, maybe you can patch in a few smaller pieces.

Those re-bar jack stands look cool Cool
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now that is an engine hatch. Can you take a pic of the hatch from the interior?
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, thanks Brad, i need all the encouragement i can get - its tough work polishing a turd Razz - but i promise i'll get into that rustwork someday.... thanks to your thread i'm wearing facemasks and visors and shit now with ventilation fans and the works,.

patayres, ya know I got pics!


Pop:

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there was a thread about this somewhere but i cant find it ...

today was semi productive - sandblasted and painted a heater control box and my exhaust and my starter - i wonder if its worth trying to do maintanance on a starter or just run it until it fries? - cleaned up more wiring, replaced gear hoseclamps with FI style SS ones

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this week im expecting a massive amount of new parts in the mail.... then we'll get down to business Very Happy
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rustbus
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

time to get down to business Very Happy

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all engine and tranny seals.

accel and clutch cables

new flywheel/clutch/Pplate/release bearing

steering rubber bit

seals for steering box

and heaps of other fun stuff! - its gonna be a loooong weekend! Drool
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, another weekend @ the bus. probably about 7 hours total, lots of which involve me staring aimlessly wondering what order to do things in or what to do next. Im putting off engine and tranny stuff in favour of general, other-than-engine/tranny stuff.

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new clutch cable. cant wait to find out how the length is, but should be able to adjust - i hope. lotta threads about these being too long.. i've looked at the microfiches and its not clea what sort of grommet or seal is suposed to be here. Any ideas? anyone?

This thing was on its way out;
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I'm gonna run this as is, hopefully no trouble. probably wont help my clutch cable fit perfect tho....
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New shift rod bushings - i actually sourced these from 2 different suppliers, but, as expected, i think we are all stuck with the same marginal quality parts when it comes to these bits. The 'rears' (front?) are not even remotely close. I decided to use the original rear and a new front, both of the type with the metal ring.
Now here i found that bently is either wrong or lacking info on the 72's, as my shift rod used the bushing with the metal ring at the rear rather than in front like bentley says. two holes for the rear bush and one for the front. I had to saw out the second tab to get the "front" one in the front, but it went back together and into the tube fine with 2 of bushes with metal rings.

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Thought I would give the metalic tape trick a try on my most crusty of rear tailights. once i get the correct bulbs installed all around, i'll compare the lighting on this side to the stock side. nice open cell foam weatherstrip fit perfect to reseal the lights to the body as well as the lens to the housing.

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Everyone loves a half assed fibreglass job! take that, huge hole in the battery tray.
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Well thats all for this weekend. next week i think i'll throw the battery back in a and mess with electrical, at least then i can turn on the stereo Very Happy then i gotta redo that brake breather tube dealy that goes from the front of the booster to behind the front tire, then POR the front floors, then then then then
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rustbus
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

got into the transmission today - about 4 hours at the shop, mostly tranny stuff.

New hockey stick seal, new ball shaped bushing, new input shaft seal (uuuhhg. hope i never do another of those) new release bearing on, new gasket on shift housing, assembled clutch cable bracket and nose cone mounting brackets.

old vs. new ball bushing bit:

old was plastic, feels a bit tighter now,

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hockey stick and orginal seal - note the pliers damage:

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this seal might have lasted forever, but the shift stick was damaged by pliers right at the seal location, totally explains the leak, so i ball peened it flat again. that took some time,but dece results:


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002 transmission with 091 nosecone. gasket was a match.


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release bearings differ in height - Another reason the new clutch cable is gonna have a hard time being the right length. this with the wear up at the pedal makes for about 4mm difference in the whole arragment so far... but maybe those two negate each other. we'll see...

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Pretty sure this one (right) is OG VW, had the VW and audi symbol anyhow.

no pics of the input shaft seal , what a shitty job removing it when you have all the wrong tools. ended up stabbing the seal with a center punch and prying it out. it was a brazilian seal, the new german seal fit tighter...

also cleaned out the frame a bit more.

see what i can get done tomorrow

PEACE! Eh?
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

another weekend at the bus comes to a close. only 2.5 hoursa today.

Cleaned out the area where the brake booster gets some air from. the pipe was completely missing and the hose was original and just flopping around. rust had gotten this corner too, and it was FULL of caked dust. I had to drill a hole and fish around in there for about 30min striaght to get all the crap out. check out the pile:
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took off the clutch and flywheel etc in anticipation of the new flywhee and stuff going on. little bit of an oil leak, pretty sure i changed this seal about 10 years / couple thousand miles ago.... I'm a little scared of the crankshaft endplay task.....better search it up guess.
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also spent a little time prepping for the transmission install. I was originally going to install the trans/engine together at once, but since, i think i'll do them seperate ....dunno why, maybe just so i can work on the clutch cable adjustment and install before i get into the engine stuff.


thas it tho, more to follow next week. Very Happy
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webwalker Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beautiful documentation! Keep up the great work!

M
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

webwalker wrote:
Beautiful documentation! Keep up the great work!

M


Hey thanks webwalker - glad you are enjoying it!

I spent about 8-9 hours at the bus today - yesterday i prepped and installed the transmission, but those pics are stuck on my stupid SD card - i'll post them tomorrow.

Today, however, I thought I would rewire the stereo. the current wiring was weak and sometimes wouldnt put 12v out to the amp, causing some serious frustration when out cruising. Neutral

i ran the power through the split loom, and used those stickum zap-strap dealies. I havent tightened things up yet, gotta make sure its all right.

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was able to route the split loom throught the old grommet hole for the Eber heater wiring. I dont think I will ever put that Gas heater back in, since I misplaced the discharge ducting Crying or Very sad Embarassed Brick wall

re- grounded the amp to the bus via the westy seat hold down bolts. over 12V instant. that should "dooz 'er" Red Bus

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I also ran a loom full of 4 wires from front to back under the bus. for the oil temp, and tach, and a couple spares, maybe CHT some day or oil pressure. hope I dont need to run any more wires. i hate split loom.


Again, got ths one through the old gromment hole for the gas heater fuel line. schweet.

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next week I'm gonna tackle this leak lil bastard. I paid a pile of cash for this thing about 4 years ago, and it leak bad. could be because I let it sit untouched for a few years?? Laughing looks to be OG vw, but also has some markings with a "Z" and stuff. I'll post more detail next weekend after its out.
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Lastly - any body guys watching this - I have holes in my nose skin. what to do to tide these over until if i ever get into the body work?

I'm thinking sand it down and POR, but how to close the holes temporarily? I will next to never drive this bus in the rain, but still I could get caught out. Maybe fibreglass this too for now?

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Anyhow, thanks for watching and have a great night. Very Happy

Kris
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

heres the photo evidence that i re-installed my trans this weekend

took a shot of my fuel setup - seems to fit nice, no interference, and I can tell if the pump is running becuase it vibrates through the bus

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Heres the old girl ready to go. new seals front and rear, release bearing, re & realease bearing shft thinger, new shift ball, rust resitant coating, clean as i could get it with reasonable effort.

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I forgot to torque the trans to frame mount on before installing so i did it by feel... Anxious

took some shots of the area for future reference - if i need to get into teh brakes or something

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shlapped it in.

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driveshafts on, check the torques, ( the ones at the wheels were low) made sure to put the nosecone booty on too. almost forgot that one!

install origianl german shift coupler. from one of the nice guys on the classifieds. that one he sold me made from old parts was WAY tighter that the brand new stuff. its shamefull, really.

hooked in the starter and powered her up. stereo on. lights on. i'll find out how many hours my battery can play the system before it runs down.

hook up all the cables, reverse wires and ground strap, everything nice and smooth and just in the right place. excpt those nuts i forgot to torque. its actually driving me crazy, but imlazy to take it down again for something im sure is fine.... Liar i wonder if I can live with it, if im still thinking about it? ARRRG

I'll end it with a question. this little hole on top of the 091 nosecone...is it supposed to be a breather? because when I had the tranny upside down and full of oil, oil came out of it.... or is this the result of some incompatibility of the 091 nose and 002 gearbox?

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Any ideas?

Anyhow, I gotta do some math about endplay...in mm...

PEACE!
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mamabluebelle
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

beautiful - I was initially drawn to a 72 but Lucy my 74 was meant for me... enjoy though! I saw a red one at a show with cool hawaiian interior - and I loved it - I have pics if you'd like to see sometime!
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hole ontop of the nosecone is the breather, all good.

That fuel pump is not going to be happy running upside down for long, better rethink that mounting spot. And that fuel filter is directly in the path of the heat exchanger dump air, good recipe for vapor lock or worse.

Other than that little fail it's looking good!
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