1.8T conversion details?

[shadetreetim]

Christopher,

I've used your thread as a guideline to do my own AEB swap. It has been very helpful while planning and then during the execution. I've read and reread the entire thread multiple times, printing off the diagrams to reference. Thanks for all the help, it's been invaluable.

Last night I was wiring up the Relay/Fuse box using your diagram as my guide.

As I built it I realized why you have had to jumper the fuel pump relay to get the motor to start. I rung out the wiring to prove my theory. The large Black/Blue wire, marked in your diagram as feeding the Coil Packs, also feeds the ECU as switched power. Seen here in my Haynes Manual. (Sw/Bl represents Black/Blue in this diagram. The gray box with the connector TB0/1 represents the ECU).

Looking back at your diagram, the ECU isn't getting switched power until the relay it is connected to has been energized by the ECU. So the ECU thinks it is supposed to be off and it wouldn't (and probably couldn't) send a signal to turn itself on. It's memory is powered by the constant 12V (Red), but I believe it is in standby mode until the Blue/Black is hot. At this point it doesn't even know the ignition switch has been turned to run or start mode. The Haynes manual shows the Coils/ECU switched power feed comes directly off the ignition switch.

A quick fix to this diagram would be to swap the wires between the Injectors and the Coil feeds. If the ECU was fed off the Power Steering relay, it would be energized when the key is on, allowing it to send the signal to turn on your fuel pump relay. The Injectors should be fine grouped with the fuel pump as they wouldn't need to fire if there is no fuel.

I don't have my motor in the van yet so I can't test my theory, but I believe it is electrically sound.

Thanks again for this thread. I hope I have been able to contribute a little to it.
_________________
Tim Potts

Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!


'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5

[japio]

Alternative and correct version.

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_________________
Ex: 1985 Caravelle 2.5 V6TDi
1988 Camper (homebrew) MV now 1.8T (1996Audi A4)
working on: 1985 Doka 3.0H6 (EZ30R)

[shadetreetim]

[Crankey]

I bought one of these valves. it's got a vac switch, but I'm going to make a way to connect the cable pull on it.
this is the valve with vac switch removed.

the valve works like this

so you can see the heater circuit always flows regardless of weather the heat is turned on or not. this way if the heat is off all the coolant won't get sucked out of my pressure tank as the thermostat opens up. the circut should behave as if the heater is on all the time and for my setup, that would be even engine temps more or less all the time. and as I crack the valve for heat, it shouldn't affect anything as far as the engine needs are concerned.

this is a Ford valve I think. I can dig up my ebay purchase and post part #'s if you all are interested.

[Zeitgeist 13]

Yes please
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Crankey]

same seller. same valve.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEATER-CONTROL-VALVE-Ford-Explorer-Ranger-Aerostar-NEW-/200464464163

[Christopher Schimke]

[crazyvwvanman]

A concern I would have is that bypassing the relay in this way means the conversion now uses the troublesome D15 pin to additionally power the ECU and the coil packs.

Mark

[shadetreetim]

[danfromsyr]

A power steering relay?, man now I need one of those too? Ohh wait I don't have power steering in my formerly air cooled 1.8T


think you meant power supply relay..
fwiw I only have 2 relays one for the fuel pump because the ECU trips it's signal via ground
and 1 for the rest. ECU, N75, O2 coils etc. divided out via a fuse block.

[shadetreetim]

[16CVs]

So do the 1.8t conversions get a BAR code sticker or ( or put in the system) or do they smog like a Subaru with an OE at a SMOG station.
Every 1.8t conversion I have seen has had a Sticker on it, with a BAR code. I am going somewhere with this and will wait for some replies.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[Mountain1.8t]

[Bills85Westy]

[Christopher Schimke]

Since this thread started be asking for details and having had a recent experience that will allow me to add even more...here goes!

This little guy below caused me a LOT of headaches lately. It's a water pump with a plastic impeller that has cracked and no longer rotates reliably. The impeller would rotate enough to push coolant at idle and low engine speeds, but would not push enough coolant to cool at higher engine speeds.

It overheated severely on the way back from a trip with the family and I couldn't catch it in time. Once home, it showed really low compression on #4 cylinder. Thinking it was a head gasket, I put a new one in, but it's something in the head or possibly a cracked ring. There seemed to be excessive oil in that one cylinder, but I couldn't determine if it was coming from a crack in the head, a warped head or past the piston rings. Whatever the case, I did not have time to rebuild the engine, was not in a position to purchase a rebuilt one and could not find what I felt was a good, used AEB for decent money.

Enter the AWM! For those that don't know, VW redesigned the 1.8T in 2001.5 (I think) and they change nearly everything on the block. They changed the water pump, coolant hose routing, crankcase venting, oil filter housing, oil pan, head, valve cover, cam timing chain, alternator and p/s pump brackets, intake manifold, throttle body, wiring, DBW throttle, electronics and on and on. Luckily the engine mounts staying the same place on the crossmember an the bellhousing pattern stayed the same.

I happened to have had a AWM in the shed and thought, "Pff...how hard can it be to convert an AWM to run on AEB electronics?". Well, I'm here to tell you that its a fair amount of work to pull out an AEB and replace it with an AWM. Below are the highlights.

The AWM got rid of the "toublesome" Ignition Control Module" that the AEB had and they went with self contained coil packs. The AEB coil packs do not fit in the AWM valve cover. There are conversions to get rid of the AEB ICM, but I did not want to mess with any of the existing electronics at the same time that I was dealing with the engine swap. Too many variables...especially with this being a used engine that I was not 100% sure was any good. So I had to adapt the AEB valve cover to the AWM so I could retain the AEM coil packs. Since the AWM uses a different (and better) crankcase ventilation system, I had to drill and tap the AEB valve cover for a new vent nipple as well as had to transfer an internal baffle over.

The AWM uses a variable cam timing situation for emissions control. The AEB does not use this, so an AEB cam chain tensioner (shiny new thing at the edge of the valve cover in the photo below) had to be installed into the AWM head. The cam timing sensor and trigger wheel (second photo) are also different on the AEB and the AWM, so those had to be swapped out too.
The AWM also uses a Secondary Air Injection system that involves a combination valves on the back of the head. This system is not used on the AEB so the combination valve was removed and blockoff plate made to plug the hole (triangular plate with two bolts holding in onto the head in the first photo).

I don't run power steering so the alternator belt had to be changed and rerouted. The original AWM cooling fan clutch had to be cut off of the idler puller as well.

Unless you know exactly what you are looking at, the photo below won't mean a whole lot, but it shows how I rerouted the oil cooler hoses and ventilation hoses to work with my existing set up.

And there you have it...an AWM in a 2wd Vanagon running AEB electronics. The only thing left to address is the throttle cable. The AEB manifold has a little boss to bolt the throttle cable bracket to. Since the AWM uses a DBW throttle, that boss no longer exists. The AEB intake manifold is not a clean swap onto the AWM head due to different diameters of the head and manifold, so the solution that is shown in the photos is temporary. It actually works quite well, but I will make a proper bracket to hold thing permanently when I get a chance.

There are tons of other little tweaks and things that were required to do this swap (swapping knock sensors, crank sensors, alternators, etc), but it all worked out. Sure was a lot of work though!
_________________
"Sometimes you have to build a box to think outside of." - Bruce (not Springsteen)

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[xoo00oox]

Interesting. Have you started the engine yet? I'm wondering because sensor ring on the later style crank is different design than that on the AEB

[Christopher Schimke]

[xoo00oox]

Great to know it all works out. I had thought you tried a new coolant pump to correct that weird overheat issue you had. Also, what happened with the aftermarket external coolant pump you were running?

I just put an AWM 1.8t in a 1980 van, it has no PS. I took that serpentine belt idler pulley off all together and just used a smaller belt, nice clean set-up. I can give you the size if you're interested.

[Christopher Schimke]

[xoo00oox]

Belt 5PK935 is used to do this. This is in a 1980 beige camper, it looks completely stock on the outside. What fun it is to drive!!