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stock vs welded counterweighted crank
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Counterweighted cranks
NO stock is fine for 5000 rpm
21%
 21%  [ 7 ]
YES Always go counterweighted
78%
 78%  [ 25 ]
Total Votes : 32

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miniman82
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To sum it up: yes you can use a stock crank, but if you'll be building an engine there's no good reason not to use a c/w crank.
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Glenn wrote:
satterley_sr wrote:

I just wanted to bitch but I'm getting no sympathy.


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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

go get some old editions of hot VW or sandrail from the 1970's and 1980's. There were thousands of sand rails using stock cranks to play. Re-read his original post as to what he intends to do with it.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I havent been in the vw scene for a very long time but after doing research, i understood that a c/w balanced crank is the basis for all motors. Unless you are staying w/ a basically stock 1600, intend to use the parts you already have,watching a budget, and dont plan on getting into too much of a performance motor; than by all means use what you have. I personally only like to do things once. -Jon
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Doesn't matter how high over 4500 you rev it, how many miles or hours you drove it like that, it's still a ticking time bomb. Always will be unless 'properly' modified.


there was also a question as to head temps.

The answer to the time bomb - any engine at that rpm can scatter. But ticking no. Not if you balance it. However the engine life is about 15,000 miles to 20,000 miles between rebuilds assuming you make 5 to 6 trips a year that way. Keep it to 60 - 65 and they last a lot longer. My last engine was dead stock because I got tired of cracked cases, pulled studs etc. Ask Jake on a T4 what he gets on the FP 914. He is probably turning up to 9,500+ rpm for 20 - 30 minutes at a time. He has to be because he is winning. We had to turn 8K - 9K in FP 25 years ago to bring home trophies so he has to be doing better today.

re head temps - stock dog house shroud, fan (balanced) and cooler but you are asking me to remember what the cyl head gauge was reading 30 years ago. My recollection was that it used to run about 350 - 375 on those runs. An extended oil sump was mandatory as oil temps would be unsustainable otherwise and I believe that I was using 50 wt oil.

I don't recommend driving a bus at that speed but I was 30ish and we would go river running on the weekends. Travel out Fri nite in the cool and back Sun nite in the cool. The original question was did he need a counter weighted crank to turn an occasional 5,000 rpm. My humble opinion stands as no. If he plans to turn 6,000+ on a T1 yes. Incidently - I set the redline on the new T4 1977 bus at 4500 rpm. Parts aren't available as easily or as cheaply as they were in the 70's and 80's.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't matter how high over 4500 you rev it, how many miles or hours you drove it like that, it's still a ticking time bomb. Always will be unless 'properly' modified.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
maybe, but you obviously forgot to shift into 4th gear.....

SGKent wrote:
wow - you can't get 5500 out of a stock crank engine sustained for 3 hours? must be some terrible engine builders these days. I thought y'all were pretty good but this makes me doubt your abilities.


Maybe he sucks at building trannys?
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

maybe, but you obviously forgot to shift into 4th gear.....

SGKent wrote:
wow - you can't get 5500 out of a stock crank engine sustained for 3 hours? must be some terrible engine builders these days. I thought y'all were pretty good but this makes me doubt your abilities.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
wow - you can't get 5500 out of a stock crank engine sustained for 3 hours? must be some terrible engine builders these days. I thought y'all were pretty good but this makes me doubt your abilities.



Quite a bold statement. I'm curious as to what your head temps look like.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow - you can't get 5500 out of a stock crank engine sustained for 3 hours? must be some terrible engine builders these days. I thought y'all were pretty good but this makes me doubt your abilities.
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Type 5 Joe
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I vote for Wasserboxer Crankshaft & flywheel.

Quit screwing around with junk. Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

168,000+ members on The Samba and only 30 people have voted?

Shocked


Last edited by DarthWeber on Fri Oct 02, 2009 1:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

go counterweighted.If you do decide you need more power later on the crank is a good start.

If for off road your rpms will be up.Say you are climbing a soft dirt/sand hill you will spin the motor up and likely about 5k rpm.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
The Noof wrote:
a non-counterwieghted,balanced engine?

Can you balance a non-CW crank?

Yes Glenn,you can:Piston/rods/pins/clips/ are wieghed and replicated by bob wieghts.Bob wieghts are attatched to the rod throws,than balanced.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hotrodvw wrote:
Wow... Might want to install a tach. I don't think that calculates out right. I'm barely at 4500 at 90.


SGKent was talking about a Bus. I've got probably the same gearing in my Westy, and I get 5K at 80. I don't do 90 in a Bus.

On the subject:

SGKent wrote:
I pulled studs, cracked rear of cases, wore shims through crank to dowells, cracked heads but never had a single issue with crank,rods, pistons or valves.


Sounds like he had some case problems, which I understand is the main reason for a CW crank in a mag cased T1.

Any T1 I build that is not absolutely stock will have a CW crank. It's only a few bucks more.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It all depends on what your tolerances are..... How close is acceptable, etc.. You can balance anything, with lots of work.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Noof wrote:
a non-counterwieghted,balanced engine?

Can you balance a non-CW crank?
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think this pole is retarded.IF you're building an air cooled VW engine of any sort, for any purpose, 1600cc or larger,why would you even consider a non-counterwieghted,balanced engine?
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

C/W crank.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I vote for CW Cool I ran a 1/2 1600 Buggy in SCORE events my rear tires were off the ground alot Shocked =5k+rpms Laughing Shocked That was 30+ yrs ago and I still have the motor It's in my daily driver Cool
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For lonevity and piece of mind, counterwieghted AND BALANCED! For a little bit more money, just pay it. In the long run it is definetely worth it!
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