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UHMW Tape: Slider Door Sound Mod + others
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Gnarlodious Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems like a modern plastic roller turned on a lathe would do the job. That bearing doesn’t hold all that much weight. Maybe a plastic bearing already exists and could be lathe-turned to fit the track.

Or possibly replace the roller with a nylon slider and the UHMW tape underneath. This mod has been extremely successful:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=592039
Plastic on UHMW is a great combination, never any grease needed and no dirt to deal with. I’d like to see such a solution for the sliding door sold mass production.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
I recently discovered that the tape i applied to the covered slider has worn away in spots and detaching in other places...

So after creeping on your blog, it seems that lasted about two years. Still worth it?

I'm also suddenly a bit skeptical about the UHMW tape/shift bushing mod.
Any reason to believe it would fare any better than in the door application?

Hmmm...
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rachel, yes a turned plastic roller to fit bearing would be the ticket. My question is how resilient should the plastic be? I like the idea of hard polyurethane but it is a bit of a challenge to turn on lathe, have to re grind tool bits etc. I haven't been successful so far in getting a nice finish, I need practice.

Dhaavers - the effects on sound was immediate. Re-applying every couple of years would not be too great a chore if it weren't for the tenacity of the remaining tape. You know that situation, where it sticks it really sticks.

Alistair
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
Rachel, yes a turned plastic roller to fit bearing would be the ticket. My question is how resilient should the plastic be? I like the idea of hard polyurethane but it is a bit of a challenge to turn on lathe, have to re grind tool bits etc. I haven't been successful so far in getting a nice finish, I need practice.

Dhaavers - the effects on sound was immediate. Re-applying every couple of years would not be too great a chore if it weren't for the tenacity of the remaining tape. You know that situation, where it sticks it really sticks.

Alistair


Hey Al, could you re-purpose a skateboard wheel? Hard poly outer, ball bearing inner...
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake,

Yeah I thought of that but I think the bearing ID is wrong. The bearing specs were published here somewhere, I snagged them to the HD.

I have some inline skate wheels on a string in the workshop and they were my immediate prey, but they have a webbed inner region that won't allow reboring for the correct bearing.

Machining a groove could be done crudely, but machining the bearing socket needs a bit more precision.

I might try delrin as I have some on hand. It machines nicely and might work out noise wise. I just have had no luck so far with polyU. I really should pay more attention to cutting edge geometry etc.

Cheers

Alistair
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a good idea, I used skateboard wheels to replace the drum supports on a front load washer about 10 years ago and it is still going strong. That middle door track needs an upgrade......

Just thinking on this and maybe the answer is to go back in time and make the middle hinge slide like a T2 door on a machined block of UHMW or Delrin instead of trying to fit a bearing into a plastic grooved roller.

The plastic block would take the place of the grooved roller, and maybe it could ride inside the track that the roller used to ride on the edge of. I am not a plastics guy, but if the plastic was strong enough and the track could be made slick with more UHMW low friction tape, then maybe we could eliminate the bearing/grooved wheel entirely.....
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
Jake,
I might try delrin as I have some on hand. It machines nicely and might work out noise wise. I just have had no luck so far with polyU. I really should pay more attention to cutting edge geometry etc.

Cheers

Alistair

Use High speed or carbon about 30deg wedge angle with at least 10deg back rake.....tick of your tool more as a paring knife.
The faces need to be polished to a mirror, the point slightly radiused(or it'll tear)..medium speeds, remember your slicing...no heat
I use a mist bottle with soapy water, for ultra clean cuts, baby oil works too
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
Jake,

Yeah I thought of that but I think the bearing ID is wrong. The bearing specs were published here somewhere, I snagged them to the HD.

I have some inline skate wheels on a string in the workshop and they were my immediate prey, but they have a webbed inner region that won't allow reboring for the correct bearing.

Machining a groove could be done crudely, but machining the bearing socket needs a bit more precision.

I might try delrin as I have some on hand. It machines nicely and might work out noise wise. I just have had no luck so far with polyU. I really should pay more attention to cutting edge geometry etc.

Cheers

Alistair


Delrin sounds promising too. Maybe not as vibration absorbing as poly but...

I have some big UHMW here but its kind of stringy when you put it through the table saw - it might be lousy on a lathe...
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ragnarhairybreeks
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Goffoz - thanks for the tool tips. I will try that out.

Jake - one thing about delrin is that it supposedly absorbs water. Not sure it that is any concern in this application. It's not as self lubricating as polyE also.UHMW polyE turns and machines nicely for me. Only drawback is that the shavings tend to static cling to everything.

Alistair
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
Jake,

Yeah I thought of that but I think the bearing ID is wrong. The bearing specs were published here somewhere, I snagged them to the HD.
Skateboard bearings fit on a 20/64 shaft, OD is 55/64.

Also, I’m not sure the UHMW tape works well on a long stretch. I suspect it expands disproportionally in hot weather or when the sun is hitting the area. It looks like it buckles at regular intervals along the rail, then the bearing aggravates the buckles.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
Only drawback is that the shavings tend to static cling to everything.
Spray it down with an atomizing bottle. Just like you get control of packaging peanuts.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gnarlodious wrote:
ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
Only drawback is that the shavings tend to static cling to everything.
Spray it down with an atomizing bottle. Just like you get control of packaging peanuts.


That's a great idea - thanks! Wink
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so i had time to make a quick and dirty delrin roller for the covered slider track. Just a proof of concept thing. i didn't feel like grinding a tool to make the internal circlip groove, i used a single point internal threading tool so consequently the groove is tapered and not to be trusted.

so with the excuses out of the way, the roller works fine. I think it is quieter than the steel roller but I can't really quantify. One thing though, now it sure seems that most of the door noise is coming from the lower track roller. When i did the tape mod I did both the lower track and the covered slider areas at the same time. I couldn't say which had the bigger effect.

Going to put the steel roller back on and think about making a final version of the derlin roller.

Oh, btw, the bearing in the roller is a 607RS.
http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-1030/607-Radial-Ball-Bearing/Detail


This has been noted in other threads, one particular thread, http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3...or+bearing, makes amusing and informative reading.

sorry about the out of focus first pic


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


alistair

Ps just finished swapping the stock roller back in and I can say for sure that the delrin version is quieter than the steel one. Is it enough of a difference to make me want to make a final version? I think so, but I'm not in a rush.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
I recently discovered that the tape i applied to the covered slider has worn away in spots and detaching in other places...


Interestingly enough, the thin piece I put on the track under the cover has very minor buckling and is still going strong. The nice wide strip I put on the bottom track has buckled severely and is worn... i.e. I need to pull it off and it shouldn't be too difficult when the time comes.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ragnarhairybreeks wrote:
so i had time to make a quick and dirty delrin roller for the covered slider track. Just a proof of concept thing. i didn't feel like grinding a tool to make the internal circlip groove, i used a single point internal threading tool so consequently the groove is tapered and not to be trusted.

so with the excuses out of the way, the roller works fine. I think it is quieter than the steel roller but I can't really quantify. One thing though, now it sure seems that most of the door noise is coming from the lower track roller. When i did the tape mod I did both the lower track and the covered slider areas at the same time. I couldn't say which had the bigger effect.

Going to put the steel roller back on and think about making a final version of the derlin roller.

Oh, btw, the bearing in the roller is a 607RS.
http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-1030/607-Radial-Ball-Bearing/Detail


This has been noted in other threads, one particular thread, http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3...or+bearing, makes amusing and informative reading.

sorry about the out of focus first pic


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


alistair

Ps just finished swapping the stock roller back in and I can say for sure that the delrin version is quieter than the steel one. Is it enough of a difference to make me want to make a final version? I think so, but I'm not in a rush.


Nice work, Al, that looks pretty decent. Wink
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I got in to the bottom track with degreaser and brushes and cleaned out the dirt, grease, a few stones and an odd bolt with a nut.

I see the worn track and figure that's where the tape goes. But my question is and I don't think I saw it addressed anywhere....the worn track is not a straight track. It's straight for awhile and then curves into the van body.

How did you stick the UMHW tape at the curve?
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fyrgrrl
Not recommended. Immediate results are great but not durable. It seems the tape can’t stand up to the extreme pressure immediately under the roller. And then the damaged tape is very hard to get off.

Ragnar:
I for one will be ready to go for plastic rollers anywhere on the door. I expect any soft plastic will be quieter but also have some rolling resistance. That is fine with me, since the door often moves when parked even on a slight incline. Keep on experimenting.

I’ve been thinking about the plastic tape under the sliding windows. Anyone done that?
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gnarlodious wrote:
the door often moves when parked even on a slight incline.


This is a great feature! We use it to check for level when parking the van for the night. Wink
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The delrin is hard enough so that the door does move by itself on the very slight incline of my driveway. I think delrin is a fair choice for the roller, hard enough to move on the track easily, but not as hard as steel so the noise is reduced a bit.

I don't have any hard polyU to try, but I may try the local plastic shop to see if by any chance they have some hard polyU rod.

I have a bit of Teflon rod, not sure if it would be a good choice but why not try it?

Would be handy to have a turret lathe for is kind of fab.

Alistair

Gnarlodious wrote:
fyrgrrl
Not recommended. Immediate results are great but not durable. It seems the tape can’t stand up to the extreme pressure immediately under the roller. And then the damaged tape is very hard to get off.

Ragnar:
I for one will be ready to go for plastic rollers anywhere on the door. I expect any soft plastic will be quieter but also have some rolling resistance. That is fine with me, since the door often moves when parked even on a slight incline. Keep on experimenting.

I’ve been thinking about the plastic tape under the sliding windows. Anyone done that?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake de Villiers wrote:
This is a great feature! We use it to check for level when parking the van for the night. Wink
Can be a little embarrassing though as a motion detector Embarassed
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