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VDO gauge wiring
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THINGONER
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 5:43 pm    Post subject: VDO gauge wiring Reply with quote

Is it ok to run a jumper wire for the VDO gauge wires? Keyed hot & hot wire for gauge light? I just can"t see running three seperate wires. Thanks.
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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it's fine to make the hot and ground wires a daisy chain, yes.
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sturgeongeneral
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is perfectly acceptable.
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kubelmann
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a Thing I always use the old diagnostic wires to go from the engine into the car interior when wiring gauges. Already part of the loom and oe wire besides. Very clean looking.
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THINGONER
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you!
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DougD
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Were would one find these diagnostic wires? I happen to have picked up a few gauges that need wired Smile
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Captain Spalding
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DougD wrote:
Were would one find these diagnostic wires? I happen to have picked up a few gauges that need wired Smile

I'm curious too. What diagnostic wires run from the engine compartment up to the instrument panel?
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Semper_Dad
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think there are any diagnostic wires that go from the engine compartment to instrument panel.

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DougD
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the heads up Semper... guess I'll just run new ones back there.
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Semper_Dad
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished installing a series of gauges on my dash. I also have all the Ts and sensors.

Cylinder Head Temp (CHT)
Oil Pressure
Oil Temp
Tach
Voltage
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None of then functional at the moment. I'm taking my time to build a dedicated harness. CHT came with it's own wire harness. The plan is to add the additional wires and encase the whole the bundle into a casing similar to the OEM main harness.

Thinking about running the harness along the passenger side. May have to punch a new hole next to the main harness to get the wires into the engine compartment.

By my count I'll need a bundle of 6 wires. Correct me if I'm wrong.
2 for the CHT
1 For the Oil Temp
1 for the Oil Pressure
1 for the tach
0 for the Volt. I'll tap off the fuse panel)
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Semper_Dad wrote:
By my count I'll need a bundle of 6 wires. Correct me if I'm wrong.
2 for the CHT
1 For the Oil Temp
1 for the Oil Pressure
1 for the tach
0 for the Volt. I'll tap off the fuse panel)

That sounds about right. I would recommend Cat 5 cable. 8 conductors in a compact package. If you look around you can find it in a black sheath rather than the ubiquitous blue.

BTW, for the gauge lights, you can jumper off of terminal 58b on the light switch. There's a gray/red wire there that feeds the other instrument lights.
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Semper_Dad
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Captain Spalding wrote:
That sounds about right. I would recommend Cat 5 cable. 8 conductors in a compact package. If you look around you can find it in a black sheath rather than the ubiquitous blue.

BTW, for the gauge lights, you can jumper off of terminal 58b on the light switch. There's a gray/red wire there that feeds the other instrument lights.


I'm a bit apprehensive about using a solid core wire in an automotive application. I would think it would be too prone to breakage. I suppose that's not too important with intrumentation. Just hate hunting down electrical gremlins. Install directions call for minimum 16 GA wire. CAT5 typically uses 24-26GA wire. I do have quite a bit of CAT5 leftover from when I wired my house.

I now have the extra fuse panel that I've brought over lighting, +B(30) , and 15 to the panel.
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Semper,
I used 4 wire trailer wiring for my additional guages, and heat booster switch. I know there are 7 wire setups, not sure if you can find an 8 wire though.... Nice to only have to run one "wire" from front to rear, instead of 8 individuals....

Just a thought!
Hey, just realized, you could do 2 runs of the 4 wire and get your eight!!

Carry on!
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Semper_Dad
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I'm just being too anal about all this. I want to use distinctively different color coded wire for my harness all wrapped in a OEM like sheath. If the diag wires were longer I'd use them for the sensor wires. I've gleened enough brown, black and grey/red wire out of old cars for the grounds, 15, and lighting circuits . Kinda wanted to go with a "what would the factory have done" point of view.
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DougD
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone happen to have a picture of the wire that runs below the engine area to the temperature sensor in their oil drain plug? I am not quite clear on how this should run... Thanks!
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Semper_Dad
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DougD wrote:
Does anyone happen to have a picture of the wire that runs below the engine area to the temperature sensor in their oil drain plug? I am not quite clear on how this should run... Thanks!


Don't think there's any "correct" way to run it. Just fix it so it doesn't fall down and catch anything you drive over.

Better yet, you may want to consider using a "T" on the current oil pressure location. People argue which is the better location but it's pretty much pOtatO v pAtAto to me. I first bought the oil plug sensor but was convinced later to use the oil pressure site.

Hey, BTW,....you going to SpringMeet or Cruise for the Cure?
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DougD
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im going to try and make it to both. Do you have to buy tickets for either?

I think on the mount I'm going to mount a disconnect point near the engine so if it does catch on something it wont rip the line out all the way back. I have all the gauges mounted but there not quite as fun when the needles don't go anywere...
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DougD
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can anyone tell me which fuse/circuit I should connect the power and control wire to for the two gauges? I've poured over the diagrams and I think I have it figured out but if I'm still a little worried I'll do it wrong and set my Thing on fire... and god knows that would suck.
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Semper_Dad
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DougD wrote:
Can anyone tell me which fuse/circuit I should connect the power and control wire to for the two gauges? I've poured over the diagrams and I think I have it figured out but if I'm still a little worried I'll do it wrong and set my Thing on fire... and god knows that would suck.


Not sure what you mean by "control" wire. Power to be connected to a 15 circuit. Normally a black wire. Fuses 1 or 2 will work. That way it isn't energized unless the car is "on". Make sure you hook it up on the fused (output) side

Connect one side of the light bulb to the cars instrument lighting circuit (58b) (Grey/red wire). Other side of lightbulb to ground.

Do one circuit at a time if feel unsure of yourself
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DougD
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Semper! Lets see if I can get these to work...
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