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Empi rear sway bar question
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crvc
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:18 pm    Post subject: Empi rear sway bar question Reply with quote

I figured out how to put the rear sway bar onto the 1973 chassis. The one-paragraph description says the urethane bushings are slit to get them over the bar. But there is no slit. The bushing clamps around the torsion housing. Does it matter where I make a cut, concave side that will touch the housing or convex side that will touch the metal clamps? I've got a question on the front sway bar but I'll post that separately.

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crvc
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Madtat
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 10:54 am    Post subject: Re: Empi rear sway bar question Reply with quote

[quote="crvc"]I figured out how to put the rear sway bar onto the 1973 chassis. The one-paragraph description says the urethane bushings are slit to get them over the bar. But there is no slit. The bushing clamps around the torsion housing. Does it matter where I make a cut, concave side that will touch the housing or convex side that will touch the metal clamps? I've got a question on the front sway bar but I'll post that separately.

Thanks,

I just purchased a anti-sway for the front of my 72 super, can you post a pic of the rear sway bar you are talking about please?
i am not sure which side to have the slit face but i belive that as long as the clamp encloses it, it would'nt matter..., just make sure it dosent squeeze over itself.
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crvc
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Because the body is off, it was an easy job. I'll take a photo or two tonight and post them tomorrow.

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crvc
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 4:03 pm    Post subject: Rear sway bar photos Reply with quote

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crvc
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 4:04 pm    Post subject: 2nd photo Reply with quote

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crvc
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 4:05 pm    Post subject: 3rd Reply with quote

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crvc
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 4:15 pm    Post subject: last photo Reply with quote

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The L-shaped bracket bolts to one of the spring plate nuts. The bar is attached to the torsion housing on each side. The ends rotate up to meet the L-bracket, connecting with a bolt and urethane.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 4:17 pm    Post subject: Re: last photo Reply with quote

crvc wrote:
The L-shaped bracket bolts to one of the spring plate nuts.

It should be to 2 of the spring plate bolts. You have them backwards.
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crvc
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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It would make more sense but I couldn't see any other way. Plus the drawing shows just one bolt. But I'll fiddle some more tonight to see if I can make it work. I assumed the extra holes were for other models.

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crvc
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Notice that the 3 holes on the bracket line up with the 3 right most holes on the spring plate.
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crvc
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I measured and the spring plate two end holes are roughly 2 and 1/8th inch on center, same as the L bracket. But turning it around makes the hole too far to reach the bar. Plus I think it would rub the tire. Or I could grind away metal to create a recess such as the end of the spring plates have. But that to my mind defeats the purpose of strengthening the bracket's attachment to the spring plate. Is that what you had in mind? Also I think it would make the bracket too far to reach the bar.

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crvc
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only way to match up all three holes is if I turn the plate around. But then it rubs the tire plus the bar won't reach the hole in the bracket. Like I said, can't see a way of doing it differently.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They put 3 holes in so 3 bolts will fit through.

Oh... I forget we were talking about a EMPI product.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I could probably make it work by grinding off some of the metal bracket so that it could fit around the transverse arm. That way I'd have two bolts connected but would it be any stronger?
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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I'm such a f****** idiot. You guys tried to tell me but I didn't get it. Luckily it dawned on me before I cut up the brackets.

Once I put in an aftermarket exhaust with telescoping tubes and a separate muffler. I carefully cut out gasket material and made four holes for mounting the muffler. It sounded odd, kind of hissing. But I passed emissions inspection. Shortly after that while on the highway and heard a loud pop then suddenly a loud throaty exhaust noise. Then it hit me I had carefully put four holes in the gasket for the four bolts but never cut out the big hole for exhaust to flow. I passed emissions because the exhaust was escaping through the telescoping tubes, never reaching the muffler. That loud pop was the exhaust busting through the gasket.

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crvc
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:00 pm    Post subject: Fixed Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2010 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

when the car gets jacked up, do the wheels have to be off the ground? I was hoping to just work on it from underneath the car rolled up on a couple ramped 2x4s
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APPLEGREENVW
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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 11:21 am    Post subject: Re: Fixed Reply with quote

crvc wrote:
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Thanks for the photo. I had the same question. Cool
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Resurrecting the dead (super old post). Crvc (or anybody who has added this), have you noticed a difference since you added the sway bar?
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

does a rear sway bar help out the stability of the ride much more? I might install one...
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