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0nebadbug Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2009 Posts: 1087 Location: Rockford, Illinois
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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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Eh... no reason about crying about spilled milk I guess... outta sight outta mind. I'm sure in the end it will just take me a little more attention to address it the end. So rather than dwelling on it all day fuming about it all weekend, I did anything but work on it, or scrutinize it by eye.. Screw it grabbed my camera jumped in the car and went did this instead...
Link
It was just what the doctor ordered to put the paint fiasco well out of my mind for the moment...
Next week is another week. _________________ ::: Slowoval ::: LaDawri Sebring ::: '61 Creampuff ::: Dust Storm '66 ::: |
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0nebadbug Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2009 Posts: 1087 Location: Rockford, Illinois
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Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:43 am Post subject: |
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Called Eastwood first thing this morning and spoke with their tech. Looks like I indeed got a "bad batch". The tech even kind of eluded that they have had a rash of this paint as of late,so... The good thing is they are going to credit me the full cost of the paint as well as replace all of the Dekups liners, lids and also replace the gallon of desiccant I threw away.
The bad thing is... Trying to fix it! Without doing it again as I'm not sure we'll be throwing a fifth coat on it. I think now we will wait until the paint fully cures, in about 6 freaking weeks, and try and smooth it all down by hand and see what alot of #2000 wetsanding and a mild buff will do while trying to keep a satin sheen on it as it was supposed to be. As I would really rather start putting her all back together.
This is what happens when you get a bad batch of paint...
_________________ ::: Slowoval ::: LaDawri Sebring ::: '61 Creampuff ::: Dust Storm '66 ::: |
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Kjell Roar Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2008 Posts: 1326 Location: Norway
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Schwing Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2009 Posts: 2506 Location: Centreville, MD
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0nebadbug Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2009 Posts: 1087 Location: Rockford, Illinois
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Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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Kjell Roar wrote: |
Looks like an industrial surface.
Not fun if you dont want that. |
Yeah I know, we weren't going after the 1920's industrial black look.
Schwing wrote: |
I bet with a power sander in 4-6 hours you'd be ready for paint again.
Easy for me to say, right? |
I hate you...
... DA will be flying tomorrow, new paint in the mail... but this coming weekends weather is looking anything but perfect. They're talking about first frost tomorrow night here, *BLECH*... _________________ ::: Slowoval ::: LaDawri Sebring ::: '61 Creampuff ::: Dust Storm '66 ::: |
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0nebadbug Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2009 Posts: 1087 Location: Rockford, Illinois
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Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 6:49 am Post subject: |
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Well spent all week sanding out the crud that got snot on it. Had to sand all the way down to 120, then 320 and finally 600 and the shell is again ready to shoot other than a last final damp dust, tack and prep spray wipe and a spray of dry air to get the linty stragglers.
Just my luck... WHY ME!? Of course the temperature this morning in the garage is 52 degrees and I only have medium range reducer. Not to mention it's raining and humidity is 90% and climbing. I do have a good propane torpedo and I should be able to bring the garage up to a decent working temperature (70-75 degrees). But I don't think running it while spraying to keep the temp up throughout seems to me be a bit of an explosion hazard waiting to happen...
Painting next weekend is not an option so it has to be done sometime today. _________________ ::: Slowoval ::: LaDawri Sebring ::: '61 Creampuff ::: Dust Storm '66 ::: |
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Schwing Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2009 Posts: 2506 Location: Centreville, MD
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Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:57 am Post subject: |
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I ran into similar issues with temp last year when I was trying to paint.
I called and spoke to a rep and they said its ok to paint in temps cooler than what the reducer was rated for, it would just take longer to dry.
I did the same thing and ran my propane heater to get temp up, shut it down and started painting.
If its 52 it will take some time for the area to cool off, its not like its 32. I would say go for it, just shut that puppy off before you paint.
After the paint fumes die down a bit you can crank that puppy up and bake it! I had my garage up to 85 degrees and it was like 55 out haha, like a sauna baby! _________________ Shadetree Westy
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=657279&highlight=
Single Cab - BBXXVII Long Distance Winner
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0 |
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0nebadbug Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2009 Posts: 1087 Location: Rockford, Illinois
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Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 1:53 pm Post subject: |
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Well nothing but rain all damn day...
But, none the less, its done. And without a hitch.
Last weekend it was in the high 70's... this weekend we couldn't even get into the 60's... and it's actually been dropping all day long. It was 59 when I woke up this morning and 54 inside the garage.
So I cranked up the salamander for an hour or two...
The temp inside is now a perfect 75'!
And the new paint they sent shot like a dream!
Layed right down & leveled great!
And exactly what I wanted, a very nice tight grained satin black finish...
No snots...
No drips...
No errors...
*PHEW*
Even have half a gallon of paint left in the event that some day we can afford and/or stumble across a better hood & deck-ild...
With a little luck, and quick brush and rinse of the over-spray in the unseen areas and then a quick power wash to clean off the dust and dirt the chassis accumulated over the summer and then hopefully we can mate the 2 halves back together Sunday!
...Finger Crossed... _________________ ::: Slowoval ::: LaDawri Sebring ::: '61 Creampuff ::: Dust Storm '66 ::: |
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briyenkieth Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2010 Posts: 293 Location: prague, oklahoma
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Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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man that looks great! good luck sunday. |
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Schwing Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2009 Posts: 2506 Location: Centreville, MD
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0nebadbug Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2009 Posts: 1087 Location: Rockford, Illinois
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Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:22 pm Post subject: |
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Well... Didn't get it back on the pan Sunday... Instead... I was planning on using the old gasket which wasn't that bad when I pulled it apart but when I went to lay them on the pan they were pretty much toast so.. in the meantime while I wait on the newest order from WW...
Managed to finish cleaning the garage from all of the junk from painting over the last month, which was quite a task in itself... and even managed to remove the tempoaray go kart fixture off the chassis so when the parts do arrive this Saturday... then hopefully it will be done this Sunday.
So to not just waste the last couple of days... started to pull down all of the rag top pices and started sorting them... hel yeah it's the first part going on as soon as the body's back in place!
Then Started cutting through all the years of paint and grunge....
And of course, as soon as one was a bit shiny I couldn't resist screwing one down... I love Black & Chrome!
And now I'm just sitting and waiting for the weekend....
_________________ ::: Slowoval ::: LaDawri Sebring ::: '61 Creampuff ::: Dust Storm '66 ::: |
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0nebadbug Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2009 Posts: 1087 Location: Rockford, Illinois
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Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 10:02 pm Post subject: |
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2Dokas wrote: |
just torqued all mine on yesterday,,, 10 x 1.50 x about 2"
All the same.
posted this the other day
Torque and sequence is located in Section A on page 2-3.
10 mm torque to 22 lbs
8 mm to 14
sequence in this order:
10's first followed by 8's
10's
4 in the rear inside the car
4 in the front on the pan
2 on the front beam
4 on the rear by the shock towers
the 8's
first the 4 the rear cross panels of the inside of the car
the pan bolts from front to back
nice work by the way... hope to do mine as well. |
Thanks 2Dokas... this was spot on!
And so the saga continues.... BOOM! I'm back on the floor!
Then we let the head engineer check a few thing for quality...
Kind of amazing what three weeks in the yard, under a tarp, while you paint a car can do to a set of discs... none the less, we got an unsatisfactory mark on that from the head engineer and were told that they must be clean on the spot inspection... *AHEM*
Grabs some fenders and beading and GO!
Then grab some hood gaskets, mix up some soap-water to let them ease in the C-channels, curse at it for an hour or three and then let her down! and grabbed some euro blades while we were at it too...
Now all I have to is start figuring out how to tackle all of this nomenclature type stuff and we're in like flint! Geebs I gots a lot of crap to put in still...
and got a good line on a nice new motor today to boot as well. hopefully I'll be picking that up in 2 weeks... let the fun begin.
_________________ ::: Slowoval ::: LaDawri Sebring ::: '61 Creampuff ::: Dust Storm '66 ::: |
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0nebadbug Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2009 Posts: 1087 Location: Rockford, Illinois
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Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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QUESTION:
How do you know if you need the regular rear deck-lid spring or the big rear deck-lid spring?
Was going to set the rear deck-lid today and then realized I have no spring... so just not sure which one is for oval... or if either style work the same... _________________ ::: Slowoval ::: LaDawri Sebring ::: '61 Creampuff ::: Dust Storm '66 ::: |
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Schwing Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2009 Posts: 2506 Location: Centreville, MD
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Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:20 pm Post subject: |
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Look at your W lid on the inside where the spring would mount.
If its in a 'V" shape then you need big spring. (55 and older)
If its in a "I I" shape then a little spring (cheaper, 56-57).
55 is the last year for the 'V" or big spring decklid, its what I have on my '57. From what I understand there are no visual differences other than the spring mount area.
Take a pic and post here if this doesn't make any sense. _________________ Shadetree Westy
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=657279&highlight=
Single Cab - BBXXVII Long Distance Winner
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0 |
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0nebadbug Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2009 Posts: 1087 Location: Rockford, Illinois
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 6:19 pm Post subject: |
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So today was a strange day... it seems no matter how much crap I buy I'm always missing something!
So, seeing was beautiful and in the mids 70's today I spent most of the day polishing this, that and the other things. I should have taken before pictures as they were all seriously awful... but the results really surprised me..
After polishing I thought heck I want the rag in. Finally watched the KCW rag-top replacement video and man am In for a heck of a chore
At first I was thinking the worst and I was going to be beating metal to death to make a header complex curve repair bow section.... THANK GOD I'M NOT!
Luckily she was still solid from end to end. But I hate holes. it will make it a pain to glue the new one on from the underside so....
20 minutes of welding and 11 minutes of grinding later...
POOF! NO MORE HOLES!
One of my biggest beefs today was below. So far WW's stuff has been perfect. Until now. I got to seating the body door gaskets. Passenger side fit like a dream in all ways... but the drivers side? I think the guy running the vulcanizer was suffering from a hangover or something... Called and talked to Rich at WW and admitted that they have been having an "issue' with the drivers side door body gaskets... At the moment it didn't see like a big deal until that even if I return them (or the one bad one) that I would likely get the exact problem on the replacement...
I dunno, does anyone offer better body door gaskets than WW does? not sure if I want to go thru the hassle of getting the same quality product as a replacement...
I'm open to other suppliers or suggestions here but you look at the pics below and tell me what you think...
PASSENGER SIDE: Door gasket fit perfect and set right in easily and lookes really nice.
DRIVERS SIDE: WOW! I tried putting it in at least a dozen times and I swear there is no way, no how you can get it to seat wet or dry, especially around the strike area not to mention I can't even shut the door without it binding within 4" of latching or worse, fear of breaking the door catch and/or latch. What a piece of junk! I ordered what was supposed to be both German seals in the kit but I'm wondering if the gave a cheapie Brazilian one.
What would you do? _________________ ::: Slowoval ::: LaDawri Sebring ::: '61 Creampuff ::: Dust Storm '66 :::
Last edited by 0nebadbug on Wed Oct 03, 2012 5:17 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Schwing Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2009 Posts: 2506 Location: Centreville, MD
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0nebadbug Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2009 Posts: 1087 Location: Rockford, Illinois
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Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 5:56 am Post subject: |
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Schwing wrote: |
I too used WW door seals and had some issues on the Drivers side as well.
I called and they said to use some 3m adhesive around that area so it stays put.
So you can get it into the groove/happy place and it just pops out?
Also I had to trim mine a bit with a very sharp razor since it would show after the door was shut. |
Yeah on the passengers side I glued up the 4 corners & by the latch but did it after I fitted it, the drivers side though? SHEESH! I wouldn't even know where to start trimming it. I can't even shut the door without using 100 lbs of force on it to just latch it... And not in the pic is the hinge side where the gasket is joined together is totally mismatched and goes off in different directions from the splice. So when you go to close the door it hits the A pillar when you are still 4" - 6" from even closing.
Did your set from them come with the passenger side having a nice symmetrical & flat flap & nice splice joint and the drivers side looking like more of a nasty blob type flap and really sad construction? _________________ ::: Slowoval ::: LaDawri Sebring ::: '61 Creampuff ::: Dust Storm '66 ::: |
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Schwing Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2009 Posts: 2506 Location: Centreville, MD
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0nebadbug Samba Member
Joined: October 01, 2009 Posts: 1087 Location: Rockford, Illinois
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Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 8:32 am Post subject: |
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Yeah I bought their full kit too. And most all of the other parts that came with it are German so, you would "assume" the door seals would be as well but neither of the gasket part tags specify which.
My passenger side was also tad long but it was real easy to simply bed-back the excess and ended up a perfect fit. Another thing I noticed this morning too is that the passenger side is a much denser foam rubber than the drivers side is.
So now it makes me wonder what seals are supposed to be in their kit. Maybe they just sent it mismatched with one Brazilian & one German by accident, or the other way around. Either way the drivers side has to go back for a credit and I'll just have them put it toward the cost of the German one and maybe I'll get a better result.
Eh besides I got plenty of other stuff to work on while I sort it out. Started getting the sunroof parts prepped yesterday for its recover and hopefully by this weekend I will have it and all of the old door glass back in. _________________ ::: Slowoval ::: LaDawri Sebring ::: '61 Creampuff ::: Dust Storm '66 ::: |
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vwsonmybrain Samba Member
Joined: March 21, 2007 Posts: 702 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:20 am Post subject: |
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I don't see anyone talking about them any more, so I don't know if they've gone down hill or not, but I've always had good luck with West Coast Metric rubber seals... especially their window rubber. But I've also used their door seals on a couple cars with a good fit and nice results. |
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