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Stripping her off - 1957 Oval
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0nebadbug
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 11:45 am    Post subject: Stripping her off - 1957 Oval Reply with quote

Looking arond here and searching... I see quite a few different ways that people are doing it

Chemical Strippers... (which looks like an absolute mess)
Specific Media Blasting...
Sand Blasting...
DA Sanders...
Commercial Dips
and so on...

I'm sure anyone thats done it more than once has their preferences but when uoiu get down to it what is the best result for the minimmum cost and at in a moderate labor effort.

For me I have done miles of sandblasting on glass, I used to own a glass shop, With my experinces in the past when I have done some small sandblasting odd jobs for fiends here and there some paints and finishes can be quite the pain in the arse to remove sometime.

My son and have a 57 project are ready to hoist up the body and roll out the chassis this coming weekend luckily the only spot I have to adress any heavy rust or scale is on the framehead itself. Once we have everything in place and ready to start we are taking on using our simple gravity fed tank. I have done some hefty sized glass jobs over the years but have never gotten into stripping an entire vehicle to clean it.

I guess what to ask would be if you have done done something similar to how wer are going to attempt it. How long did it tke you to strip your car? did you find any medias that were better or worse or something that damaged something you noticed after the fact and say why on earth did i use that stuff!!!

Were planning on using Black Magic about 80-100 grain size
working at 80-90lbs of pressure to the gun..

What are you're experinces stripping
Or something you found in your process that will keep us from making a big oopss..
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mattpeace
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Media is the fastest way to do it, I would not do the doors with a media blaster unless you are very carefull they are easy to warp making it twice the work, I usually chemically strip them then sand whatever doesnt come off afterward.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plastic media blasting will not warp anything but it doesn't take off the rust. I usually media blast it then sand blast or DA sand off the rust.I've done about 6 cars like this. Some people use low pressure/high volume sand blasting over the whole car if you can find a shop that does it. Not many shops do it because it is not as economical for reclaiming the abrasive.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used chemical stripper, and then the armstrong method. I had a lot of time on my hand, and a limited expense account.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 4:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Stripping Her Off"

Put a metal pole in the garage, turn the lights down and put on some risque music, maybe put some dollar bills under the wiper arms?

Give it a day, see what happens.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just go to a place that has done VW's before...make sure you ask..american cars are a different animal so they have to know what they are doing....
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0nebadbug
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok well... Uh... Sorry about the long delay but I got sidetracked with my sons '66 since the last post and now that his
is more or less the way he wanted it to be and runs like an overpowered Swiss watch... It's finally time for us to put
our focus back onto mine.

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Can't really complain about it seeing as you know how it goes on these... takes you a year or two to mass the pile of
pieces you know you're going to have to get done first to point in the direction of forward rather tinker, wait, tinker,
wait... soo....

Finally! the back garage has room to finally separate it! and 50 bolts later... voila! Houston? Go! for separation!

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Its really nice to have matching shell & chassis and its original pans 100% intact for a change. Every other car I
used to get back in the day for me was riddled with Midwest rust... this is a treat!

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...Unfortunately from the PO being an idiot I have to address this....

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And this as well... I seen someone here wondering what looked wrong about trying to swap out an early
trans for a later trans and something didn't look right... well in case your reading this is what happens when a hack
does it... screw the T2 nose cone and the hockey stick... just bend the shift tube and hack a hole in the frame tunnel
the size of your fist in the luggage area... and this is what you get!

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But since we were focusing on my sons... I did manage to find all the parts I needed to remedy this.. thank god!

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as well as found a really close number original trans that it is going to be swapped for. I can deal with the
non-synchro splity trans'. My pride and joy is going to focus on comfort, not so much speed. Low, slow is how I like em nowadays... don't
need rocket-ships anymore had my fill of those in the past.

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So now that its been separated... now I get to leave for vacation tomorrow for a week (maybe 2) on Marco Island... Now I get to see if my
children are going to yank the motor, the trans and the front beam and have it completely blasted, fully painted and back together by the
time I get back. They went out today to pick-up the media, primer & paint so I assume they are serious...

(...And they better put all the new wheels and rubber way away from the flying media Laughing )
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do media blasting on my cars. The metal gets warped if you use sand but it seems to work fine with plastic. Also make sure to clean the metal up afterwards with some metal ready because it leaves residue everywhere. Also blow out the heater channels and tunnel with air because a ton of media gets caught in there.
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0nebadbug
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lawn ninja wrote:
I do media blasting on my cars. The metal gets warped if you use sand.....

Yah.. I know what it does... After all things considered...
1, Already clipped the front
2, grafting the rag into it (less work than chasing & then still having to skim over 100 or so hail dents that were on the roof)
3, Dealing with a fist sized hole in the frame tunnel and luggage area...

Some minor warping is the least concern. And besides this car will never be a concourse car considering its past. About the only fact it does have in its favor is having zero rust from stem to stern. and just hope to have a clean, fun driver without a pile of eye-candy and that's about it...

Well I guess they are serious looks like they actually did work on it while I was on vacation. Stripped down the pan and even got it mostly reassembled. Not too shabby... though they keep trying to convince me its supposed to fire engine red... I keep seeing Orange... But... it is what is is and will more than likely look just fine in the end.

EDIT HERE:
Here is an album I found in my youngest sons FB page with an album showing them stripping it, priming, paintiing and getting the chassis ready to go while I was on vacation... My kids are the best!

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.202290519804840.48082.100000716796022

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And hey whad'ya know... part of the fist sized hole is gone!
...Though I wish he would have at least ground down the welds a bit considering the grinder was only 10 feet away... No biggie there's still a small tab we need to fit into place so we can put the access cover back on again. So it will get cleaned up before the body gets mated back to it.

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Even got the nasty worn out orig 36'er that was in it that will go to the shelf for another day somewhere down the line and got its original split-case and cleaned up a newer engine we had on the shelf here... anythings gotta look better that what was there...

(or maybe I'll just sell the old 36'er, anyone interested? ..Make me an offer!)
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I wish it wasn't one again back in the 30's and 40's again or we'd be out there rocking away on it... all we really need to start her running again is one good backing plate (I dunno the P.O. looked like he drove it with a wheel off for a block at some point i its life) and a few misc brake parts... going to make a list and hopefully have by sometime next week. And hoping to at least get the primer for the body as well so we can start prepping the body...


Last edited by 0nebadbug on Sun May 08, 2011 7:56 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So anyways... since we're just kinda waiting on WW, CIP, Midwest and just about every other vendor you can think of that actually has their crap IN STOCK...

Why not work on some other parts...
Fabbed up the cover for the incorrect year fender to at least make it look like it has Euro wings again... While I do the fitting, cutting & banging... my son does the melting (my eyesight and too good these days I just try and not tell anyone)

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And in the end once the fillings done these is going to be looking pretty good and good old original German steel to boot... And I did manage to make him see the how to butt weld.. and the pro's & con's of going over or going under or to stitch (which will be next week maybe) and that metalwork only hinges on strength & it's end finish work... I'm not complaining at all.
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And while he was doing this (and re-booting his Chinese Rubber turbo boots on his '66 that have a habit of exploding like balloons at will) I also managed to start tackling the P.O.'s hack and W.T.F.? whack job...

Made a fe reference scribes (with the crappiest marker I could find)
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Scratch you heqad while you look at what you got to work with and realize that if you Fruck it up? ...the next door is far and few between til another surfaces to sacrifice...
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Grabbed every shear and hand brake I could find in the box and started the metal nibblins' : )=

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...And in the end? That '55 accordion that I sent to the grave yard looks like it gave me more than just that rag-top section... talk about a damn perfect fit! There was gold in that rust bucket!

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Now we're just kinda waiting for the ordered chassis, brake & misc running gear parts to get here later this wee so we can get that rolling under full over again. once that's finished ? it's time to start tackilng the big body push....


Sorry this thread isn't as exciting as LT's '57 blue-nut.. But I can only do what I can with what I got left... Let me graft a rag in that thing would ya?

...Now lets see your driest silly walk improvisation with a good old nudge, nudge, wink, wink, say no more.... LOVE YA LT! LOL...
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0nebadbug
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well since we're still waiting on all the vendors and there "yeah it's in stock" but for some reason I have no verifications from anyone of a any shipment from any of them yet... might as well push forward...

Today I started to address to the rear apron, cut the under metal webbing and more or less beat her back into submission and of course couldn't resist dry fitting the ... umm re-pops
But still at least is another small step forward to the final prep...

I've been finding on this car my issue isn't so much rot but more... STRESS!
I can deal with that as long as the metals clean : )=

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tweak it, beat it & clamp it!
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Looks not to bad considering I ran out of Argon... will finesse it up a bit after the big strip down of it all...
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And like I said... couldn't resist dry fitting the repop rears
(Don't worry I do still have the original rears but they are seriously sad... maybe someday I'll attempt them... maybe... I am just trying to be able to make it to a show or two this simmer and have some fun tooling around.)
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Also got a start on the teeny weeny spot on the front apron and got the major whack smash roughly back into its shape and will come out just like original by the time its been focused attention. Also ground off the tacks for the rag graft to do the final grind and prep to install it permanently.. and should have a few pics of that as well later in the week...

...more to come...
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got around to doing the final fit for the rag graft... not to bad... came out dead perfect for me being kind of a second rate hack. : )=

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And that's about all that's left other except one corner around the drivers side rear that just needs a little grinding lto make the radius in the donor match the corner and maybe a few more holes...

Which got me asking 2 questions....
While I can see welding it period is going to be a challenge... but I got to wondering if I should do all the tack from the top down to the graft? or do all the spotting from the underside only? about the only big hurdle I could see was laying on your back for 4-5 hours spotting upside down but could see less grinding and cleanup after the fact... or if I should do it half and half? half from the top and half from the bottom?

and the second question it put in my head was fro this pic...

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While I do remember the gap in there and it was just shy of being 1/4" thick to accept the finished headliner. But I can't remember how deep it was ... anyone here know about how deep that clearance is so I can keep a headliner in its place? ...I really don't want to make up some cheesy Masonite headliner insert (unless that how they originally were but I doubt it)... but with not seeing what was (or supposed to be) ever or heck even seeing a completed original rag model that actually had an completed interior it I kind of... have a lack of of hands on information... Anyone can shed some light on this 'detail' for me?

...And after talking to every vendor on the phone today... all my part for the chassis to get that on the road this weekend are not coming in until early next week... figures... And seeing as Friday and into Saturday is supposed to be really nice weather wise here, it looks like we'll have all the metalwork done by this weekend...including the graft...
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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well still fiddling... We should be welding by now... *sigh*

Finding that fitting and making it lay as perfect as humanly possible is quite the time consuming challenge to say the least. But I imagine this will pale in comparison to the time it is going to take to button her up cleanly. So Looks like we won't actually get to welding it in for good until next weekend.
Measure alot... three times if you need as if you farck this up? you will wind up with a piece of trash!
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Drill, drill, drill... and then drill some more...
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Then clean up all them burs above and below as you want this all laying as flat as possible.
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Since no one seemed to know how deep the original gussets are to accept the headliner... The only thing I could come out was these little clips I bent up... And in the end I think they will wind up working very well when we get to trimming out to the headliner.
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And seeing as I had little extra time I nailed down the final little stopts and get the twist out of the rear apron and now the rear lid fits tight all the way around... YAY! nno more 1/2" gap on the drivers side!
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And while I'm not worried about this yet, the only way I could get to the backside to re work the outer apron I had no choice but to cut the inner apron as clean as I could and the drivers side was already missing anyway... now that the other spots are all straight & good now on the outer skin... I'm not sure how I'm going to reattach. If push comes to shove after the final strip off while I can easily fashion some small v clips and just roll over then and re-weld those. But . .
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I am wondering here... Does anyone make a replacement of the early inner apron skin?
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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Houston? We have a nearly completed rag graft done right!

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And Brakes and new lines as well!
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Also the new gaskets and window trims came in to today... so I will be busy for the next week or two.... Now if I could just dind a good set of rear pop out frames... dont need ones with glass were doing alll the glass in the car in Light Gray glass... all the side window got trashed from the PO and were going the red and black theme so... it's-a going to be a clean eye catcher when its day comes...

...even decided to pull down the box that's been storage with the crackled dark red leather that's been in storage and waiting in the wings to be going into the wrap for the interior... not sure about the seats yet... probably just plain black cloth and red piping... but if I know me... and my upholsterer... I'll probably brandish it with something stupid, but, catchy... : )=

Since no one seems to ever say a word on my build... I guess we'll just keep ya posted...
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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

0nebadbug wrote:

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.


You might want to recheck the way you have done the clutch cable, you haven't fitted the bowden tube or its bracket, which bolts to the top studs of the split case.
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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

66brm wrote:
0nebadbug wrote:

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.


You might want to recheck the way you have done the clutch cable, you haven't fitted the bowden tube or its bracket, which bolts to the top studs of the split case.


Yes I know its on the growing "part$ we're mi$$ing" list.
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2011 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I guess it'll go at lest 60 mph for a couple of miles... Drained the trans and no funny things came out, a good sign I guess... got her fired on the stand and went through all the gears (no load obviously) and was silent and the gates were tight and miles less sloppy than my sons trans which has less than 2k on it... The guy I got the trans from said it was originally rebuilt 2 decades ago for a dune buggy application but the guy blew the motor 3 weeks later and ... more or less got abandoned afterward.. so far so good I guess..

all we need to do is bleed the brakes, rig something to hold a gallon of gas, wire up a kill switch, slap the seats on (why not bring a co-pilot!), ,

Whats even funnier is I might drive it like this to a small local drive-in show (thank god its only a mile and half away) just to see what they say maybe... LOL!

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WIRED AND FIRED! *giggles*
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Got a start on making the template for the windshield and all the custom glass that is going to go into it (haven't decided on Grey or Bronze yet)... would keep the original glass... but it is so pitted and scratched... and me being a glass person.. well? ... it just irritates me... all the new glass will be hand fabricated, by me.. and then sent for tempering... now if I just could get someone to trade me old motor for a nice set op pop out frames and there hardware I'd be in serious business.. as soon as this chassis hits the ground and is rolling again... the body is coming off my glass table and I can cut all these up!

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Nice kill switch eh? anyone know what it is?
Got it out of an early 50's VW Ambulance many, many moons ago... no markings on it but it works & built like a brick shoe house... so it works for what I need... might make a hidden security/cutoff switch of of this piece when this thing is done maybe...

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More to come ... maybe I should strap the vid cam to one of them wood slats when we take her off which should be in the next day or two, weather permitting... not that it matters... but everyone seems to like this kind of schtick these days... Me? I still look at a streetlamp to tell realize what time it is... And I still use this thing called pencil to make lists on white analog ruled paper....

Wink
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yaya out of the Grange and off to the road...
I think I may need to get license plates that just say.. LOW N SLO with a bright red reflective frame around it.

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And C'mon! ...How can you NOT take if for her first Joyride!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great video! Man it looked like you really stepped on it!
Seems to corner really well too. Nice work.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just letting you know with those rear fenders your tail lights will be in the wrong placement
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