How to make a progressive work properly on a VW engine.

[email protected] · Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 5:24 pm Post subject: Re: Bla

Now you have to go back and re-visit your jetting. Now that you found the problem, understand the 80 secondary idle is ridiculous.
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ozzo · Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 8:38 pm Post subject:

Ok, so to resume it, tell me if i understood wrong
Low 14 at idle
Around 16 in the first barrel with fuel pump and second barrel disconnected
Around 13 when second barrel opens during acceleration

So my questions
With fuel pump connect what should i want to reach
When i travel for some time fully open what value should i want? On highways or mountain i travel long time wide open, i have to stay at 13 or 16?

John
I don t like the stock air filter that come with progressive kit, using your adaptor for stock filter would be restrictive for a 90.5x76 engine with stock cam? It s a baywindow
Ciao

ozzo · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:59 am Post subject:

In case gearing influences jetting i have to say that i installed a dk gearbox from t3 eith diy cableshift, do i run 60 miles/h at 3000rpm which is my most common cruising speed
Now i m running the suggested jetting on first page but plugs look rich so i have to improve...

[email protected] · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 12:37 pm Post subject:

Some guys with busses, things, and ghias use

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Progressive-Air-Cleaner-Adapter-2-5-8-66mm-Top-p/1529.htm

which as to be modified to work. They shorten the round top, and sleeve it down (requires aluminum welding), so the stock air filter hose slips onto it.

By doing this they can retain the stock oil bath filter.

Note that some other guys have had great success by gutting the filter housing, and putting an element inside it. There are samba threads on how guys have done this. It looks stock on the outside, but flows a LOT more air (no restriction), so power goes way up.
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ozzo · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 12:51 pm Post subject:

Actually i have one of those 1600 cc late bus, 1978, quite common in europe for cheaper tax purpouse so i do have the late paper filter not oil bath.
Your adaptor will still need modification? Is it working as restrictor for 1955cc engine or is it still flowing enough?

As spark plug are quite black do you suggest smaller secondary main or bigger air correction?

[email protected] · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 1:04 pm Post subject:

It won't be restricting anything.

What does the wideband say? Where are you rich? You should be 16:1ish at throttle positions under 1/4 throttle, 13:1 after that.

ozzo · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 1:18 pm Post subject:

Actually i m going to by a o2 gauge to proper jettinh. I just want to understand once installed what numbers i have to look for.
I understood that 13.1 was under acceleration and that on steady gas even at speed it has to go to 16.1.... and also that at 16 it would have run cooler
Now i see i probably understood wrong

If you can confirm your air filter adaptor match my stock air filter i ll buy one

[email protected] · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 1:26 pm Post subject:

As I stated, the air filter adapter must be modified to fit the stock air filter boot. It has to be sleeved down in size. The jetting information is posted earlier in this thread.
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ozzo · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 1:43 pm Post subject:

Ok thanks. Probably i just overlapped information mixing what i read here and what is written on the other post of wideband results... now it is more clear that with progressive i have to look for slightly rich 13:1 also on highway steady drive once i have more than 1/4 gas. Thanks

frydaddy96 · Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 5:14 am Post subject:

Thanks for the how-to advice. Here is what I found when opening my 32/36 DFAV w/elec choke. 60/50 Idle, 132/137 Main, 170/180 Air. It would start and Idle Ok But that was about it until she was at speed on the highway. No accel and wanting to die when off the gas to shift. I did the idle mixture and speed adjustments, no joy. When I took off the cover assembly, the gasket at the aft end of the secondary bore had been sucked in at some point which is probably why both the Pri. and Sec. bores and throttle plates were black. Inside the bowl was clean just a bit of stain in the bottom, same with the accelerator pump internals. Diaphragms looked in good shape too. The float was at 40mm so I reset it to 38.5 and have ordered a 45&55 idle, 125&170 main, and a 160 air. So we'll see how these work next week. I'm going to set it 45/60 Idle, 125/170 Main, and 160/180 Air.

ManFromNapa · Posted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:56 am Post subject:

Gonna port a weber progressive I have in the garage to use on an engine I'm building for my 64 bus until I have the $$ to go dual weber 40's. Going to use the guidelines listed by AirCooled.net for sea level, with some consideration for that fact that I like to go to the mountains (camping in Lake Tahoe). My engine build:

90.5mm Pistons
78.8 Crank
110 Cam
heater boxes w/ 1 1/2"

AirCooled.net recommends:
Sea Level:
45 Primary and 55 Secondary Idle Jet
125 Primary and 175 Secondary Main Jet
160 Primary and 180 Secondary Air Jet

Any tips? I'd prefer MPG over raw power.

Thanks
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vannin · Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 1:36 am Post subject:

I've ran webers on no vw engines and I have leftover a rebuilt 38/38, is it possible to get it to run on a 1600dp that's been built too 1700? I'm very new to aircooled but I had this carb running on a 1300 samurai and it was a huge improvement.
Nik

Aerindel · Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 2:50 am Post subject:

I already posted this is my build thread but seeing this post again reminded me how much help this thread was to me over the last six months so I felt I should post my hot air intakes here since this is where I got the idea and it has helped me and my progressive a lot:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I've noticed a great improvement in responsiveness since I completed this mod. Idle is smoother too but most importantly there is no hesitation on acceleration, even with an 009 it picks up cleanly and smoothly now where in the past acceleration was always preceded by a half second lug.

For the record, jets are as follows, which seems to work well but I am open to suggestion. These are the old (before hot intake) jets. I was able to retune to the carb 1/2 turn less than what it was but I haven't messed with jets. I may be able to go smaller now if I understand correctly.

Idle 50
Secondary 60

Main jet 120
Secondary jet 180

Primary Air 160
Secondary Air 190

Altitude 3500ft
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[email protected] · Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 8:14 am Post subject:

Try going down "2" on the idle jets, to 48/58, and reset LBI.
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scrivyscriv · Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 10:48 am Post subject:

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snowbug · Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 9:49 am Post subject: Header Wrap

I wrapped my intake with header wrap to keep heat in. It does run better. I know a heat riser tube in the header would be better . I only drive this car in the summer. Jim

turntwo · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 6:17 am Post subject: Weber Carb/CB Fuel Pump question

John,
I need some Weber carb/ fuel pump advise:

We installed a newer 1776 cc in my double cab that came with a 32/26 Weber progressive jetted for a Texas climate (i am in NJ). from Bug Stop.
We then installed a CB performance rotary fuel pump with filter attached and another VW plastic filter at the carb.

When we first cold started it it revved so damn high up i thought it was going to blow. so i turned the fast idle screw out to lower idle. this worked but now it barely idles and stalls out.

Could the rotary pump be too much pressure or are there too many filters in line? should i go back to mechanical pump?
it has heat risers so i think its getting the right amount of hot air.

Also it has heater boxes but they are wide open since there is no heat pipe to the cab. should these be closed off to hold more hot air in?

finally it has open valve cover tubes which i closed off since oil was misting out onto the underbody of the truck. It just seemed wrong.

thanks for listening. we hope to learn from you wisdom and experience.

attached is a photo.

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50352

You may need to go back and lean the choke out a bit and also maybe adjust the unloader so the choke opens more right at startup. On many carbs I have ground a bit off the top step of the fast idle cam to lower the maximum cold idle speed while still keeping the "luke" warm idle speed up a bit, this isn't all that easy to do on a progressive though.

The collective wisdom is to keep air flowing through the heater boxes even if you don't want heat. This is how VW designed them to operate. With your funky shroud this may not apply all that well though.

You do not want the rocker boxes vented unless you run the vents into a catch can so the oil can be trapped and drained back into the engine.

Read Aeromech's critique on the style of breather you have. He doesn't think they can do the job of properly venting even a stock engine.

GBHgpJON · Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 9:20 am Post subject:

Tried this question a week ago, as a seperate title with no luck, so thought I'd try it on this topic.
I'm getting a rise in the revs when spraying carb cleaner around where the preheat pipes enter the manifold while searching for an airleak. Admittedly they aren't the best fit, but I didn't think these passageways are connected directly to the intake? Anyone care to enlighten me......weber progressive aircooled.net manifold. Cheers.


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How to make a progressive work properly on a VW engine.
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