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joescoolcustoms
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Joined: August 08, 2006
Posts: 9054
Location: West By God Virginia
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 Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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| If you build race engines then how do you scavenge the case? One way or another crankcase pressure needs to be eliminated. Some like breather boxes, I find them worthless, some do a blow through concept which is very efficient and is an idea I have played with. Now matter how tight an engine is, even with zero leak down an engine will generate internal pressure, why fight it, best to eliminate it, and sucking (or blowing) it out is, in my opinion the best way. |
Easy, just pull a vacumn withoput letting additional air into the crankcase.
Why introduce any air into the crankcase that does not need to be there. Depending on the engine design, V8, L6, L4 or flat 4, pull all evacuation points to either a vacumn pump or into the header collector.
My current VW drag engine has a oil line run from the bottom of the left rear head into the front left corner of the deep sump. A evacuation line from the top front right valve cover, generator stand area and a point in the top part of the forward case (tapped when building the engine) and the three points run into a quart oil/air separator. Two lines come from the oil/air separator run back into the collector attaching into a reid valve at a angle where the exiting fumes form a vacumn and pull the vapors from the oil/air separator can. Thanks to Muffler Mike for discovering and sharing this system with us.
One thing to consider is that air with a oil vapor introduced into the intake system will lower the octane of the fuel mixture.
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modok
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009
Posts: 26790
Location: Colorado Springs
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 9:14 pm Post subject: |
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Okay- now this thread is about how to jet positive crankcase ventilation-wierd
My breather has all this booger looking stuff in it. I bet if I had some VENTILATION through the crankcase, it would go away.
Thats what pcv is-anti booger. Keeps water vapor and such from building up in there. Also keeps the oil inside, nice for toyotas and modern cars.
It is not useful for the Canadian trying to get his progressive fed car out of his driveway on a cold morning.
Did I help clear all this up? |
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joescoolcustoms
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006
Posts: 9054
Location: West By God Virginia
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 11:46 pm Post subject: |
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Okay- now this thread is about how to jet positive crankcase ventilation-wierd
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It has to be taken into consideration when filtered, flow through air is introduced into the intake, after the carb. Unmetered air entering after the carb will have an affect on the jetting/tuning of the carb.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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vwguy2
Samba Member
Joined: November 05, 2009
Posts: 36
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 6:42 pm Post subject: Re: Cold weater |
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| [email protected] wrote: |
1. Will a properly setup intake manifold work down to 10 degree F?
Yes. But you have to have a good intake AND EXHAUST. A good intake with a bad exhaust will also not work right. You HAVE to have both.
2. Does it make sense to route air from the heat exchanger to the carb instead of the passenger compartment? (I'd rather be cold than fight going up hills from a stop with idiot drivers behind me)
Just use the elbow to draw heated air off the 1/2 head, and route that to the filter. That's what the factory did.
3. the driver's side of the intake manifold says SCAT. Is that "a good intake"?
I have not seen their intake in >5 years. You need one that routes exhaust to the carb base, NOT just along the bottom tube. When I found the one that was designed the best, that's the one I recommend. |
John,
Are you selling the Redline manifolds?
I'd like to find more info on this setup and I'm having problems finding info on the web.
I'm trying to figure out what the next big move is going to be -
Weird routing of heated air
Your manifold kit
going with your Solex duals
going with Weber IDF duals
going Mega Squirt
going CB CFI
growing up and getting a more pedestrian vehicle
Yours
Redline Kit# K1410
Redline DELUXE PROGRESSIVE W/ Full Manifold Heating #99004.410B |
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krusher
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2002
Posts: 7652
Location: europe
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| Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 2:00 am Post subject: |
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Is this going to be in the tech articles on your site John, seems to be about to disappear on here.
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[email protected]
Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2002
Posts: 12785
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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I just realized that Krusher. I'm going to put it there soon, thanks. DOH!
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BugMan114
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Joined: March 22, 2007
Posts: 3744
Location: Ellenwood, GA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:35 pm Post subject: |
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Howdy john. Thanks so much for the write up on how to properly tune these things, lol. But i do have a question for ya.
i have a drawthru turbo set-up on my stock 1600dp motor (8lbs of boost, from a T03). No idea what kind of jets are in there now (prolly whatever it came from the factory), but i do notice that if you floor it, it boggs, and sputters, and kicks, then will cut out. if i want to floor it i have to push the pedal slowly, then it will accelerate. so i guess my questions are:
what jeting would you recommend i start off with? should i still go with what you stated on the first post? does turbo'ing require the need to change the jetting (or other adjustments) at all? again, its sucking from the carb, not blowing thru, so not sure if that makes a difference.
Also, i DO have heat going in to the carb, but i DONT have manifold heat, but the heat comming off the turbo, does keep the mainfold warm (the carb is right next to the turbo), so i guess you can say i sorta do have manifold heat, lol.
Thanks
-Mike
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Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!! |
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[email protected]
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Joined: August 03, 2002
Posts: 12785
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:32 pm Post subject: |
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what jetting do you have now? This is ONE time I'd externally reference the power valve, in a draw thru.
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BugMan114
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Joined: March 22, 2007
Posts: 3744
Location: Ellenwood, GA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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not sure whats in there now, but i can tell its all wrong, lol. i'll break it apart 2morrow, and find out.
_________________
1974 Super Beetle: Custom resto in progress
1972 Super Beetle: Daily Driver
1971 Std. Beetle w/ 1929 Mercedes Benz Gazelle kit
1960 Baja Bug
1969 Baja Bug
Sand Rail- Homemade
Sand Rail- FUBAR
Aircooled Airheads
Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!! |
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[email protected]
Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2002
Posts: 12785
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:42 pm Post subject: |
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send me an e-mail rather than clutter this thread.
pri/sec
idle
main
air
6 jets total. Most are Bass Ackwards
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It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!
Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net
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BugMan114
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Joined: March 22, 2007
Posts: 3744
Location: Ellenwood, GA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:02 pm Post subject: |
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Hahaha, i was about to ask what your email adress was, but had a D'OH moment, hahaha. thanks
_________________
1974 Super Beetle: Custom resto in progress
1972 Super Beetle: Daily Driver
1971 Std. Beetle w/ 1929 Mercedes Benz Gazelle kit
1960 Baja Bug
1969 Baja Bug
Sand Rail- Homemade
Sand Rail- FUBAR
Aircooled Airheads
Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!! |
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EA812
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Joined: December 07, 2008
Posts: 1223
Location: North central, CT
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bigbore
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Joined: December 19, 2003
Posts: 3297
Location: Wasilla Alaska
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| Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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I have read this thread and I have a question that I haven't seen asked. John what emulsion tubes should be in there?
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Racebug57
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Joined: October 22, 2003
Posts: 114
Location: Prescott Valley, AZ
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| Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 11:12 am Post subject: |
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| bigbore wrote: |
| I have read this thread and I have a question that I haven't seen asked. John what emulsion tubes should be in there? |
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EA812
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VWBusNut
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Joined: September 09, 2007
Posts: 22
Location: Torrance, CA
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| Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 4:22 pm Post subject: Set per your specs. running way lean |
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Hi John,
I set my carb up as close to your specs as my parts would allow, 50/60 idles, 125/185 mains, 165/180 air correction. Runs lean as can be. I'm running a type 1, 1776cc with 8:1 compression and a stock bus muffler (of course, its all in a bus).
A short run on the freeway 2-3 miles could hardly get it up to 65mph. When the second barrel opens, power seems to drop not increase.
The spark plugs are white as a sheet.
What do you suggest?
While I await a reply, I'll go up to a 132 main/primary jet.
Thanks,
Chris |
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[email protected]
Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2002
Posts: 12785
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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| Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 5:20 pm Post subject: Re: Set per your specs. running way lean |
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something is clogged in your secondary circuit, or your float is set improperly.
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mattcfish
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Joined: October 24, 2006
Posts: 565
Location: Bellingham, WA
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 1:03 pm Post subject: Re: Set per your specs. running way lean |
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| [email protected] wrote: |
| something is clogged in your secondary circuit, or your float is set improperly. |
What's the proper float level on a DFEV with a plastic float? Some sites say 38.5mm and others say 36.5. Do you measure with the gasket or without? Ther's alot more info on DGV's. I'm also running a bus with a 1776. I haven't got it ready to run yet but I want to make sure I've got it all set up right before I do. It's not much fun changing jets once it's on the engine in a bus.
I would imagine that if the previous poster is using the same timing he had before he rejetted then he might have issues. What timing and what RPM for full advance works best with your jetting John?
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[email protected]
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Joined: August 03, 2002
Posts: 12785
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 1:04 pm Post subject: Re: Set per your specs. running way lean |
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Proper timing depends on the distributor, not the carburetion.
With or without a gasket is only .5mm difference, not enough to matter IMO. 2mm matters, .5mm doesn't.
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It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!
Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net
"Like" our Facebook page at
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mattcfish
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Joined: October 24, 2006
Posts: 565
Location: Bellingham, WA
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 1:52 pm Post subject: Re: Set per your specs. running way lean |
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| [email protected] wrote: |
Proper timing depends on the distributor, not the carburetion.
With or without a gasket is only .5mm difference, not enough to matter IMO. 2mm matters, .5mm doesn't. |
I agree, but if his timing was set to run well with an over rich carb before then he will run lean with a properly set up carb. He probably needs to retard things.
So is it 38mm or 36 on the float?
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