hummer body

[madarcher]

i have been told that you can get a hummer body kit to go on a vw pan does anyone know where i can find any information on this kit.

thanks
madarcher

[connella08]

[madarcher]

[Glasser]

I have seen them posted a few times here. I know they exist but not sure where to find
They actually look kind of cool. IMHO

EDIT


The Humvee is what you are looking for.....

http://www.kitcarmag.com/featuredvehicles/5594_humvee_hummer_replica/index.html

EDIT #2

Or a Wombat

http://www.kitcar.com/wombat/home.html
_________________
Brent
My build up http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=265364&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Project#2. Neighbors build up. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=327008

[madarcher]

[drclock]

When I worked as a auto shop teacher for at risk youth, we purchased a turn key Humvee from JPS Motor Sports......" total junk " about covers it~

[Thanatos]

The kit you're referring to is probably the Hummbug, whose name was later changed to "Wombat" under threat of litigation from AM General and/or Volkswagen, and the grille design was changed to a horizontal-bar design resembling a Range Rover more than a Hummer. The kits are still being made, and information is here:


http://www.wombatcar.com/

[buggyboy80]

The Wombat kit is also available thru this company is Salt Lake City. They are a distributor for them. I saw a ad on ebay for the Wombat recently too. www.aircooled.net

[connella08]

oh the first generation hummer body, those things are awesome. i thought you wanted like an H2 or H3 body.

[Augiedoggy]

[connella08]

[stock doc]

wombatcar.com is the company up in Vancouver Washington.

I built one on a 1969 pan an it's a well engineered kit.
Search my postings for photos. Mine is for sale now but I'd be happy to answer any questions for someone that starts one of these builds.

[Augiedoggy]

[BL3Manx]

[otto w]

I have a hummbug and I love it. The body has a steel tube sub frame that make it nice and strong. When I am putting the top on in a hurry I don't think twice about walking and standing on any part of the body. (I am about 160lbs.)

I have sent some pictures to another member on this site. If you would like some pictures or information not found on the website that others listed feel free to email me and I will see what I can do for you.

[email protected]

[681tonburb]

There is one for sale in the samba classifieds right now. . Not mine but it looks cool.

[budski]

Hello,

I purchased the Wombat Kit Car sold here on Samba back in October. This vehicle was constructed primarily for highway use and I would like to modify it for some off-roading, specifically the logging trails of the Sierra’s just East of Twin Bridges. I have, and/or have had, several vehicles in the 38 plus years we have had our cabin, including a basic Dune Buggy, a Pinzgauer and a Tomcar, this vehicle seems to have the potential of two of the three.

I would like to solicit some suggestions on what modifications would be necessary to achieve a decent ground clearance and suspension travel while still maintaining a safe off-road and on-road environment, and keeping my costs reasonable.

I don’t expect my finished vehicle to perform anywhere near my Pinzgauer, that is my workhorse and I’m not looking to replicate that. However, my Wombat does have the potential of achieving some of the attributes of my Tomcar that I really like, specifically a Dry Weight of about 1800 lbs, 15 inches of ground clearance and 13 inches of suspension travel. I’m hoping that with a little bit of planning, I can achieve a similar clearance and travel.

Current Donor Car: A 1969 Volkswagen Type 1 Beetle IRS; currently equipped with 2 Empi Shocks and 2 Gas-A-Just rear shocks. I would like better shocks and more travel. I have read about two Long Travel Suspension Kits manufactured by the “The Beanie Boy” and yet others referred to “Mid-Travel” kits put out by other suppliers. Am I correct in that my choice will be dependant on how aggressive I am going to be on the trails? Am I also correct in assuming that “long travel” is a characteristic ascribed to sand rails and those vehicles looking for a lot of “air time”?

I have read that upgrading to 3x2 arms, CV joints, shocks and axles for the rear end will do the job but that could be expensive (in excess of $1000). I also read somewhere where a pair of boxed trailing arms with a 3 x 3 rear suspension kit from mooreparts.com was quite acceptable as was the 930 stub axles, flanges and CV-joints and Rear Suspension Conversion Kit, both selling for about $975. Any preferences?

Would KYB GRII shocks gain me some reasonable travel for the front and not limit the off road speeds in the rough stuff, or should I be looking at something more aggressive? I have read several articles that state Fox racing 2.5 coil overs with reservoirs are positively the way to go. I see the Manxster DuelSport is using Fox Racing Shocks – non-reservoir type-set at maximum 12” travel front and 15” travel rear with 3x3 rear Trailing Arms and heavy-duty Torsion Bars with 2 ½ x 1 front Trailing Arms with Combo Spindles. Are these comparable to the mooreparts.com kits?

My Wombat has a performance transaxle – a Rancho Pro Street Type 1 IRS 71/72 VW, 4.37 R/P Core. Should I be looking into a stronger bus tranny that was geared lower while at the same time upgrading the rear suspension, or can I get by with just lowering 1st and 2nd gear? (That was my one gripe with my old dunny, low was just never low enough!)

The engine was built by Chico Performance Racing our of Monrovia, CA; it was a 2017cc Turnkey, 2 Webber 44 IDF e/36mm vents; DYNO SHEET: 121 HP @ 5500RPM, Max Torque 137 lbs @ 4500 RPM; Rancho, I have always gotten around perfectly well with a 1600cc Duel Port single carb, but I see nothing detrimental about running this kind of a high performance engine, other than making sure that I have the air intake extended high enough on the chassis and perhaps changing the jets out to compensate for the 6000 – 7500 elevations I will be running in. Besides, the owner had only put 85 miles on it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Oh yah, I also thought about adding an extra fan and oil cooler. However, on second thought, summertime temperatures in our area of the Sierra’s very rarely exceed 80 degrees and usually average in the mid-70’s. By trading off the possibility of overheating with an external oiling cooling system that will leak where ever possible, I may be adding more problems than I am eliminating, any thoughts?

Lastly would be to protect the entire undercarriage with a full-length aluminum skid plate, something which saved my butt a lot of times on my old dunny.

Budski


Three photos are below:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/751439.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/751438.jpg
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/751437.jpg

[Tony Marconi]

Have you considered doing a mild build up of a Suzuki Samurai? They can be made quite capable without breaking the bank.

[gr8cobbler]

Tomcar

_________________
Gary

Being a cheap old fart is just a front for my actual lack of money.

[BL3Manx]

If you want to change from a ball joint to a long travel king pin suspension you need to change the chassis frame head. If you want a full length aluminum skid pan you should just have Dave Barrett build you a chassis with the ground clearance and wheel clearance you want.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=628212