Carbon Canister Refresh - Howto

[shakers73]

[vamram]

[APPLEGREENVW]

Fender retainer/clip that holds tubing in place. 3 are needed in the fender well.

retainer/clip that holds tubing in place on foor pan bolts.
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02/76 Beetle sedan

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

For reference here of the assembly order of the plastic beetle carbon canister:

also the small foam filter that gets gummed up is inside the bottom cylinder which sticks up. I used a piece of foam filter material made for a weedeater from the local hardware store to replace it, as advised and done by others.
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1973 Standard Beetle
1600DP AK case
Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

[bluebus86]

a note if restoring a long disconnected system or one with torn open hoses. if the open hoses are located under the car, dirt may have entered the hoses. make sure that dirt is removed, so as to not allow it into the air intake of the carburator.

on the VW Porsche 914, the inlet on the airfilter from the evap system is connected after the paper airfilter (ie down stream) thus any dirt in the hoses can be introduced to the intake unfiltered. This may also be the case with the Bugs, particularly later Bugs that have the paper elements, as I believe the 914 was set up this way as it too had a paper element (2 liter cars, ealry 1.7 liters cars had oil bath type filter). I think the reason this was done was to prevent the paper fikter from becoming fuel saturated from the evap system. This would not be so much an issue with oil bath filters.
anyway check it out, if the inlet to the filter is down stream of the filter, make darn sure the hoses are clean inside.

Good Luck

Bug On, Bug Clean!!!
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Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

[bluebus86]

[Tim Donahoe]

There is a very small (about an inch in diameter) sponge in the plastic charcoal canister. This sponge is all there is to pre-filter fumes, coming from the front of the car to the canister. There is also a fiber element at the top and another at the bottom of the canister, with the charcoal pellets sandwiched between these two fiber elements.

So, you'd think that all this stuff would prevent dirt contamination from entering the carburetor, and it probably does. We have a sponge that would trap very small particles, two fiber shields, and a whole lot of charcoal. Sounds foolproof, right? Perhaps not.

Blue has a point here, although I don't believe any contaminants could reach the carburetor. But there is a weak link in the filtering system: the sponge. This item is very small. All the fumes--and possibly any dirt particles that may have entered a broken fume-line--have to first pass through this sponge. The original sponges were made from a very fine material that, over time, compresses itself into a fine mush that inhibits fumes from entering the canister. Thus, the need to replace the canister after 48,000 miles. No fumes, nor any dirt can enter the OEM sponge after so many miles. So, the problem isn't whether any dirt can enter the canister and be passed on to the carburetor--despite the filtering process of the charcoal and the fiber sandwich at either side of the charcoal--the problem is the complete obstruction of fumes (or anything, for that matter) from being able to pass into the canister.

Also, if any dirt entered an open, broken, fume line, I doubt that it might be pushed along the line, due to the fact that there is little, if any, pressure in the line until the fumes enter the canister and are pressurized by the action of the engine fan. However, dirt could certainly plug up the fume line anywhere along its length and render the entire system useless. It's even possible that very fine dust could eventually plug up the sponge in due time. But, in either case, I don't believe this would allow any dust or dirt into the carburetor.

A few shots of compressed air, directed into a broken fume line is still a great idea, since you really need that bottleneck in the system--the tiny sponge--to remain clear. So, perhaps, Blue has a good point. No sense plugging up your sponge, folks.

Tim
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Richard O'Brien

[sb001]

[APPLEGREENVW]

A lot of great info with photos.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8984494#8984494
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02/76 Beetle sedan

[alaitken]

Anybody know what a “bung” is? The Merriam Webster Dictionary defines “bung” as: “the stopper especially in the bunghole of a cask”. It lists “plug” as a synonym. Why do I ask?
The charcoal canister...the VW manual says it’s supposed to be changed every 48,000 miles. Two things: this Super Bug has 270,000 miles and the canister has likely never been changed, and the canister is no longer made or available. Rats!!
Not much info about it on the internet either...but I found one article about refilling with new charcoal granules the canister that I already have. Simple enough...just drill a 1 inch hole in one end of the old canister, empty the old charcoal out and fill it with new charcoal. Then “plug” the hole with a 3/4 inch “bung”.
So I trot on down to our local Lowes to buy a bung. They don’t have any...they’ve got plugs...but no bungs. So I buy a 3/4” plug with MIP threads (basically the same as NPT threads), go home and drill the 1” hole where I’m supposed to, and guess what...the plug goes right through the 1" hole and doesn’t plug anything.
So I’m thinking...hmm...now what am I going to do? So I said what the heck...I’ll just pour out the old charcoal through the 1” hole, fill it with new charcoal that I bought at a pet store...activated carbon granules used in fish tank filters...and figure out the “bung” situation later.
So in shaking the canister to make sure I got all the old charcoal out, I inadvertently dislodged the perforated plate and mesh screen at the other end of the canister...and I can’t get it back in place working through the tiny 1” hole.
I think I’m going to cut the canister’s bottom cap off which will allow me to reposition the perforated screen and mesh, fill the bottomless canister with the new charcoal and then weld or braze the bottom back on.
I’ll need the think about that a bit, but in the meantime, I sandblasted the canister to get it ready for the cutting and welding operation.
So...any advice on cutting the canister open to restore it. Should I do that? If so, should I weld it or braze it back on? Any advice would be appreciated.

[Tim Donahoe]

You have obviously not read this thread, so have fun with wasting your time on your “refresh”.

Tim
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Richard O'Brien

[johnpernock]

Hey all,

one of my lines from the canister to my air cleaner was very brittle and while fixing my starter it cracked and broke. What kind of lines do I need for the fan and the air cleaner to the canister? Is this something I can run to an auto parts store and pick up?

[APPLEGREENVW]

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

[johnpernock]

I must have missed that part, I remember seeing all of the diagrams. Maybe I just have too many tabs open at this point... too much to do.

Thank you for the link and the info. I ordered the correct ones. My car smells horribly when the gas tank is over 1/2 full so Im hoping fixing the system will help alleviate the issues of the fuel smell, besides all of the other fuel tank connections.

[Profcucchi]

Just read through this whole thread.

I do not have an expansion canister nor do I have an expansion chamber, but I do have the tank (I'll check for cracks and blockages and make one if I have to).

I have a feeling that a previous owner has a hose aired to atmosphere, saw a youtube video that did this as well.

I just want the smell to disappear. Off to the Classifieds and maybe some local guys.

[Heathintexas]

I'm giving this a shot with the canister from my 70 bus. The thing is while i was draining it, all the parts rattled out of position. Shot in the dark, but can anybody guess the order?

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[webwalker]

This is why I showed drilling a hole and putting in a plug. Check 10 posts above you; someone has theirs taken apart and the parts laid out in order.

M
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"Consistent maintenance with quality products is the cheapest warranty you'll ever need."
1977 CE1 Transporter Deluxe, Subaru EJ22, Skills Cooling, Steedle HD 091 w/ GuardT .82 4th
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