shift rod fix

[t3 kopf]

well, i did the fix using injection hose and some stuff i call super mega strength epoxy. she shifts like butter now. lets see how long it'll last. if i haven't posted about how it failed in a few years, then it was a good fix.
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'90 Carat w/ '95 phase 1 EJ22 OBD2 conversion

[EL31415]

you can make your own plastic guide and many other parts
polypropylene cutting board + dremel + time
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1985 Westy

[MsTaboo]

additional info here:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...highlight=
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Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec

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[cameronstoffel]

I have done this hack for the shift rod ear with the injection hose, I have a question....
I just finished adding the injection hose and epoxy as the thread says to its specified dimensions. I was curious: I have not put the linkage back together to see how it shifts, nor did I have someone get in the drivers seat to see how the box and shift rod/ears interact before I took it apart, BUT the "shift guides" (that are fixed in the box for the lock out and 3rd and 4th) dont leave any room for the new ears from the shift rod to fit behind the "shift guide" (http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_1921_332/shift_guide.html). I really have to jam it back there to get it to fit. Is there suppose to be sufficient room for the ears to move in and out with ease? Do the ears tilt slightly to fit behind the shift guide or are they suppose to fit straight up and down? I assume with a ton of grease they will get there, I'm just worried this will throw off the entire shift pattern because the injection hose is by no means the same dimension as the stock rubber ears. Any advice or light you have to shed on this topic? Please help, I am new to fixing my baby, but want to do it myself, thanks for any and all help.
Thanks
Cameron
2WD 1987 Vanagon

[IdahoDoug]

Are you saying the new "ears" won't fit between the shifter guide and the side of the shifter box? And are you also sure it is supposed to? I guess if others have had success I'm thinking you are trying to put the new ears in a place where they don't actually slide into in operation. Can you see prior wear marks that were from the original ear going into that space?

Having said that, there are all kinds of thicknesses of fuel line - perhaps you have a different and thicker type on yours.

DougM
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[16CVs]

There are 2 different people making the repair kits . Since I have 2 vehicles that needed them,I've bought one of each .
They both installed with little effort and seem to be of the highest quality . That along with a full set of bushings and shift pieces ,my shifting is effortless .
I do not know why you would mess around with a DIY when these are reasonably priced and work so well .
Just have a few beers less or drink something cheaper and you are way further ahead .

Stacy
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
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[MarkWard]

Cameron, I am not sure what you are talking about. A picture might help. To clarify, there is no 3/4 lockout. Sitting in the driver's seat, pushing the shift lever straight forward or backward selects 3rd and 4th. The rail in the shift box is the reverse lockout. When you select 1st or second, sitting in the seat, you pull the shift lever towards you. The plastic ear, or in your case the hose peice, would slide along the lockout plate. There is no engagement. To select reverse, you push the shift lever down which lets you move the ear under the reverse plate and select reverse.

Early vangons had only one plastic ear for 1st/2nd There was a plastic bushing attached to the side of the shift box for 3rd and 4th. The later trans got two plastic ears, one for 1/2 and the other for 3/4. The spacing between the ear and reverse lockout is critcial. If you have altered the thickness you will need too loosen the clamp towards the rear and adjust the gap. Look at the Bentley Manual for adjusting.
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[cameronstoffel]

Stacy, I ended up getting the set of ears from Van Cafe. They just came I. The mail so I'll try and get those bad boys on tomorrow. I tried to fabricate my own just because I've been out of the country for 6 months and am absolutely broke, but I sucked it up and spent the $50 or whatever bucks it costs.
@rsxsr this is my first van and am still figuring out some stuff. You say to get into Reverse I need to push down then that gets over the lock out and into reverse. I experienced having to push down once I put the injection hose on, however when I first got the van it was a simple all the way to the left and up... No needing to push down to get into gear. In not needing to push down was that a sign of wear and replacement right off the bat?
Thanks!

[cameronstoffel]

I just finished installing the new ears I purchased from T3 http://t3technique.com/accessories/shifter-guide-repair-kit/. Going to grease up and put the linkage back together and hope everything works a lot better. I cant wait for it to dry!

[Brad26903]

After months of having a problem shifting into 1st that was getting worse, I figured it was time to find and fix the problem. Reviewed the forum and found similar issues, and then how they were resolved. Similar to others mine was simply a worn out shift tab ear on the 1st/2nd/reverse tab. Didn't want to spend up to $50 so I made mine. I cut the new ear from 7.5 mm thick cutting board, trimmed to match the angles/slopes of original, cut needed groove and recess with a Dremel w/ 2.5 mm bit. Installed the ear, greased it up and then test drove. Worked perfectly so I then epoxied it in, using the hole in the side to create an epoxy 'pin' through the ear and the hole in the metal tab. Thanks to all that have posted previously, this problem ended up being fixed for pennies.

[Forthwithtx]

I'm a do-it-yourselfer on most anything I have the aptitude for, which I humbly admit is a lot, but for $24.95 you can buy a kit that is precisely dimensioned, and comes with the adhesive and the lube. That is no-brainer for me.

I understand Vanagon parts purchasing fatigue, believe me.

I might fab up something in an emergency, but there is rarely a better substitute for an engineered fix. The rubber hose and glue would be just such a stopgap measure, IMO. I'm not bashing anybody. If I was short on cash, I would probably do just what the previous poster did.