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1970 Convertible Top Replacement
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Most tops also have headliner material sewn inside around the rear
window opening. This can be trimmed down somewhat but leave an
adequate border. Glue it in place all around the curved perimeter
but leave the bottom flap loose until a later step.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Lower the rear window and remove the 2 chrome guide pins under
the header bow. With the top closed but unlatched at the
front, place the top cover over the pads on the frame.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Pull the top cover tight over the main bow and attach on each side
at the holes provided in the lower corners of the frame. Use chrome
or stainless screws with closed-back finish washers.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Insert the threaded ends of the rear anchoring cable through the holes
provided in the top cover on both sides where the beading ends. As
all the manuals state, 2 persons are [usually] required for the
fitting of this cable. If the supplied cable is long enough, one person
may be able to manage it but usually it is not.
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MRRAGPICKER
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you had to install a complete interior and a new convertible top, which would you do first?
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MRRAGPICKER wrote:
If you had to install a complete interior and a new convertible top, which would you do first?


I always do the top first during a full restoration.
You find yourself all over the interior when doing the top
and no sense risking some kind of damage happening
to a new interior.
Also, with seats and etc. removed = more room to work.
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57Drag
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If my car was closer I would offer it for use.Whoever put the top on sure missed some steps.My top was made by Crown mfg. and is shrunk.
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

57Drag wrote:
If my car was closer I would offer it for use.Whoever put the top on sure missed some steps.My top was made by Crown mfg. and is shrunk.


A few years ago we installed a Crown Mfg. top on a '66 Ghia.
It was canvas and I remember it being made very small right
out of the box. Talk about a tight fit.
You drove your Ghia to the Stone Mtn. (GA) Ghia Treffen,
right? I still give you props for that!
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tri356
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I thought the window/seal alignment issue could be related to the top install. John M, you had suggested looking at the workshop manual. Yes, I know of those pages. What I was after more were the bits of information that doesn't always come across in manuals.

Vince had pointed out using a snap line to mark the center of the top, etc., and is using a lot of comments alongside his pictures. That's the kind of detail that won't show up in a manual and is useful to have when doing this work.

Mike
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[Mike, sent you a PM]

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Pass the rear cable through the holes provided in the body,
on both ends of the "U" channel.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Loosely attach the nuts on both ends that secure the rear
cable to the anchoring brackets inside the rear quarters.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Mark the center points of both the rear window opening and the
body panel behind the "U" channel for alignment purposes.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Pull the top cover over the "U" channel with the rear cable in position
on top of the cover. You may want to use an arrangement of
clamps to keep everything in place.
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Alternating from side to side, tighten the rear cable just until it
starts to disappear under the "U" channel. You must hold the cable
with a small wrench or pliers to keep it from twisting while the nuts
are being tightened. Keep checking that the top cover stays in position and does not shift.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Insert the cable for the rear window opening through the holes
provided in the rear bulkhead, just outboard of the window hinges. Secure it loosely with a nut on each end.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Pull the front pocket of the top cover over the header bow and check
the fit. Do not use excessive force the first time attempting
to close the top because the top fabric may tear or be otherwise
damaged, especially on the sides of the roof frame.
In this example, the top cover is too tight at the front and the
latching hooks will engage the catches but will not close the top,
even when they are fully extended. The rear cable must be loosened
again and the top adjusted so that there is less top material captured
and held under the rear "U" channel. A happy medium must be found so
that the top is secure in the rear but also there is enough material
slack in the top to stretch it over the front bow, provide a tight fit but
still be able to latch and close the top.
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

After all adjustments are completed in the rear, tighten the cable
evenly by alternating side to side at the anchoring nuts.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Then pull the top cover over the header bow and attach to the
underside with tacks and staples. Properly fitted the front sewn
seam lays flat against the windhield frame. At this point you
should be able to bounce a coin off the tight top cover.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Check all the holes provided in the top frame and windshield pillars
for mounting the side window weatherstrips. Remove any broken
screws and/or make other needed repairs.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Pull the top cover over the frame so that the vertical sewn seam
aligns to the edge. Glue the flap down and temorarily hold with screws
and washers. Do not trim any surplus material until after
the window seal is installed.
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NOVA Airhead
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice!

The quality of the Sewfine top looks great.
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MRRAGPICKER
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ghiaddict wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Pull the top cover tight over the main bow and attach on each side
at the holes provided in the lower corners of the frame. Use chrome
or stainless screws with closed-back finish washers.



Where are you getting those screws and closed-back finish washers?
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crocteau
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MRRAGPICKER wrote:
Where are you getting those screws and closed-back finish washers?
Not closed back, but I found these a pretty good match for the finishing washers... http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/finishingwashers.php They hold without cutting through the material.
Charley
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MRRAGPICKER wrote:



Where are you getting those screws and closed-back finish washers?


I've saved everything useable from several Ghias bought for
parts only down through the years. That's how I can use a lot of
original hardware during restorations and such. My local Ace Hardware
does have a great selection as well but all their finish washers
are open-backed. There is a risk of cutting holes in the material
when using those on canvas or vinyl.
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Use the string provided to pull the side tension cables through the
longitudinal side pockets of the top cover. You must carefully mark
the distance to the front anchoring point with the top closed
and cut an opening in the inner layer (only) of the pocket.
You may want to slide a steel ruler into the pocket from the front
to protect the outer layer of top material when making the cut.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Pull the cable through the cut, form a loop and use a screw to
anchor it to the hole provided in the top frame. Note: The
length of the cable should be measured so that it gains tension
from the spring attached on the other end (at the main bow) when
the top is closed.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Open the top and temporarily remove the front latches. Glue down
the top side flaps to the roof frame. The upholstery tack on the end
of the flap remains, but the screw and washer are removed before the
side window weatherstrip is installed. Make cuts in the top material
to clear the latching hooks and use one chrome screw and washer to
secure it forward of the latches. Surplus material is trimmed after
the window weatherstrip is installed.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Make cuts in the top cover to install the chrome guide pins and
washers/spacers. Install the header cover plate with 5 screws and
finish washers. Re-install the front latches.
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MRRAGPICKER
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ghiaddict wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Pull the cable through the cut, form a loop and use a screw to
anchor it to the hole provided in the top frame. Note: The
length of the cable should be measured so that it gains tension
from the spring attached on the other end (at the main bow) when
the top is closed.



########## About how much tension? ############



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Open the top and temporarily remove the front latches. Glue down
the top side flaps to the roof frame. The upholstery tack on the end
of the flap remains, but the screw and washer are removed before the
side window weatherstrip is installed. Make cuts in the top material
to clear the latching hooks and use one chrome screw and washer to
secure it forward of the latches. Surplus material is trimmed after
the window weatherstrip is installed.


So that screw and washer is really in the weather stripping hole until
the weather stripping goes in?
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MRRAGPICKER wrote:




########## About how much tension? ############


So that screw and washer is really in the weather stripping hole until
the weather stripping goes in?


Enough tension on the side cables so that they pull the top cover
tight to the sides of the frame when the top is closed. Normal to
have the coil springs on the rearward ends to stretch a few mm's
when the cables come under tension.

Yes, the screw and washer in the middle of the above pic is in one
of the holes used for the weatherstripping. It's just temporarily
holding the flap down while the glues dries.
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Secure the top cover in the rear inside, under the window opening. First
insert a 36" length of wire into the sewn seam of the anchoring strip.
Push the flap over the pointed body tabs so they capture the wire
along with the material. Bend the tabs down to secure.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Install the 6 snaps on the body for the convertible top "boot" using
a rubber gasket under each.
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2009 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Measure the door window seals to length and bevel cut the ends as
needed where the 3 seals end. Use the aluminum support strips in
the seals and countersunk screws to mount them to the top frame and
windshield pillars. Then carefully close the door to check the
door window fit. In this example, the window is too low and also
positioned too far to the rear.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Use the adjustments inside the door to position the glass to front or
rear, tilt in or out, and height. Note: The Factory sometimes
used shims behind the seals in cases where gaps cannot be fully
adjusted out.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Rear interior headliner flaps anchored and awaiting carpet install.
Best not to glue these down until carpet kit is fitted.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Convertible top...Done!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Using the centerline previously marked on the rear body panel,
line up the top boot and install the snaps.
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crocteau
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beautiful! That ought to make for a very Merry Christmas. I can't get over how quickly it came together. That headliner fabric looks nicer than the typical perforated vinyl. Thanks for sharing!
Charley
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Ghiaddict
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!

It did finish up nicely I think.

Wally just picked up his Ghia and was pleased with the new top.
He brought along a door panel to show what the completed interior
will look like. Very sharp!
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Last edited by Ghiaddict on Fri Dec 25, 2009 5:45 am; edited 1 time in total
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