HOW TO: Install rear axle seal kit

[der58SC]

When I rebuilt my RGB back in January, I never used any adhesive. I just put the paper gaskets on and tighten things up. I have not had a leak and I drive my bus daily.

Should have used a adhesive or not? I ask because I have a friend bringing his bus over today because he has a leak and we will redo the axle seal.
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Strictly Vintage 2s

[Eric&Barb]

[robin.richard]

Had a relatively easy time removing the outer bearings on both sides. Passenger side was a little harder, but it was my first attempt. Driver's side was no issue. That is until it didn't correct the play on that side. So...it's likely an inner bearing that is causing the play. What a disappointment.

Looks like I'll have to dive in and open the driver's side RGB. Not looking forward to removing the plug behind the spring plate or the nut.

Here is the outside bearing on the driver's side. Although it's smooth it looks a little off color. Burned?

By the way, the bearing covers sealed up nicely, no issues.

-Rich
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Drive your bus!

[Eric&Barb]

[robin.richard]

Since I just replaced the lower-outer bearing I'll reuse it. I can get all the parts: 3 x ball bearings, gaskets, new plug cover, new lock nut, locking rings for just over $100.00 shipped.

I've spent the last two nights reading through RGB rebuild threads and YouTube videos and the plug really concerns me. Especially since I don't have a welder. Also the lock nut, but that may be an easier task. Everything else seems straight forward, even without special tools. Any recommendations?

One thing that came with my axle seal kits was a PVC replacement plug. Have you seen these? It seems it would be much easier to remove.

-Rich
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Drive your bus!

[Eric&Barb]

Only time we had a problem with one of the plugs, the DPO hit the side of the hole in the RGB when pushing the plug into place. That mushroomed the side of the hole over making it impossible to just pull it out. Took about an hour to carefully file out the mushroomed side of the hole. Then carefully cleaned out the seam between plug and RGB, have found the backside of an Exacto knife blade works well. Add a little oil to the seam to make it easier to slide it out.

Having a welder is so nice, get one soonest and enjoy learning. Without a welder you can do the same by drilling four holes in the plug and installing self tapping screws. Then use a claw hammer to tug it a little at a time at each screw. Any local exhaust or most any machine shop can weld the holes closed for you.

Have not used the plastic plugs.
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[BarryL]

Did you wiggle up and down the stub axle after you had the outer bearing off? If so was there a lot of motion? If so did the inner bearing feel rumbley?

Now that it is back together how much motion is there and in which axis?

The roller bearing carries most of the load whereas the inner bearing does the thrust so you might be good for a lot of miles.

[robin.richard]

BarryL,

Once the outer bearing was out the stub axle moved just a little in and out, and both from 9 to 3 and 12 to 6. Once all was put back together with new outer it still moved 9 to 3 and slightly less from 12 to 6. It is very different from the passenger side. There is enough play to make me concerned about it, but I'm sure it will last a little longer Until I gather the parts. I'm sure I've been driving with it this way for some time as I haven't looked at that wheel for about a year 😳.

I have an extra big nut trans sitting in the garage I got for $60.00 years ago. The RGB cases are rusted but today I practiced on removing the plugs. They were really rusty, but I was able to get them out with drilling holes and using the screws as Eric&Barb suggested. I plan on keeping the inner parts as spares. This is where I got the replacement seal carriers for the damaged ones I took off my Westy.

I drove the bus around today. No bearing noise than I can tell.

-Rich
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Drive your bus!

[BarryL]

[Scorcho]

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111501303A

I have a M216 small nut transmission with a constantly leaking driver side axle. Thinking of replacing everything-is this the right spacer for it? Have been using one like this for a while but now im wondering if I maybe had the wrong one all along which would explain the leaking problems I have had.

Also wondering if I can but the oil slinger that goes by the cap as well
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1963 Bus
1982 Vanagon

[Scorcho]

[Eric&Barb]

[Who.Me?]

I need to re-do the seals again because of a weep. I've bought new spacers because my old ones were worn. I'm hoping that'll fix it.

I used to be able to get Permatex High Tack from the US via Ebay but I've run out and can't get more because they can't/won't ship it (hazardous material). Is Gasgacinch a suitable alternative for using on the paper axle seal gaskets? I can get that in the UK.

[Eric&Barb]

Personally have never needs a sealant when doing the RGBs. Just make sure no scratches in the metal sealing surfaces and they are fairly flat. Using a fine flat file to take off the high spots is a must for any used parts.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[ZENVWDRIVER]

… only took me many rebuilds to realize, I needed new (#8 )spacers - that finally, did it - z

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9/63 Pacific blue, Ghia
'87 Toyota MR2
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All super-heroes, wear a MASK

[BarryL]

[Who.Me?]

[BarryL]

The biggest problem with the Gasgacinch on small gaskets is the applicator is a big dauber like for putting on shoe polish instead of a little brush.

[Okie Adam]

Does anyone know off hand if the '63 1500 option 1-ton little big nut is set up like the big nut or like the small nut as far as what pieces of the seal kit to use and not use?

I know it has small nut axles but I believe the bearing caps are specific to the transaxle.
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55 Wolfsburg Kombi
60 Walkthrough Kombi
62 Single Cab
66 21window
67 so42
76 Westy
64 Karmann Ghia

[Long-roofs]