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VW/Porsche factory balanced (crank) good enough?
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you should have paid more and dealt with a more stand up company that would stand behind what they sell. I've been known to exchange components FIVE YEARS after they were purchased if they had never been used and had a problem.


THE BITTERNESS OF POOR QUALITY REMAINS LONG AFTER THE SWEETNESS OF LOW PRICE IS FORGOTTEN

If those rods had been subject to proper QA they would have never been shipped, then the problem would not exist. Tell that to the seller when you call him up and tell him to shove his rods up his ass.

Absolutely unacceptable. 30 days my ass.
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gooser
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

at what rpm does balancing become beneficial?
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Type 5 Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well please don't be shy about listing the supplier and the manufacturer of these parts....

Did you know the reputation of both these company's BEFORE you ordered?

You have to wonder if people are warned about dancing in a mine field...

Then they cry because they are not willing to buy good quality prosthetic legs for themselves....
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nextgen
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gooser,
Of course the faster the RPM the faster you will damage an unbalanced engine, but you can also feel the difference at idle.

So to answer you question. I would say all speeds, the difference is the greatest stress on the parts will be at higher speeds, which can lead to a faster engine failure.

Years ago I did my first 1600 and this was the engine that came new in my new 1969 bug. When I had it balanced at 80k with all the stock parts it idled like a sewing machine, much smoother then when I drove it out of the dealers lot. Wound up like a turbine. Even people that had no VW engine experiance said, wow that thing is smooth. Stock 50 hp.
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gooser wrote:
at what rpm does balancing become beneficial?


At about 401 RPM...

The starter will turn the engine about 400 RPM, after that the engine becomes self sustaining and thats when the dynamic balance begins to play a role.

I even balance 36HP engines. EVERY engine thats left my shop since 1999 has been dynamically balanced and indexed.

Anyone who has witnessed the imbalance that comes from dynamic components that have become part of assemblies would understand why. Its absolutely unbelievable.

I recently built a 430HP Porsche M96 engine of X51 specs (N/A). The previous engine had failed due to a crankshaft that had broken in half between the #6-#7 main bearings. I boought a brand new crank from Porsche and had to wait for it to come from Germany. It cost SIX THOUSAND DOLLARS and when it arrived it was 14 grams out of balance.

Thats a component that spins 7,500 RPM in STOCK form and is factory equipment in a 100,000 dollar car... Guess why the last one broke in half? I'll give you two guesses.
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Mr. Unpopular
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake Raby wrote:
Thats easy and its why I recommend balancing a second unit at the time the unit is balanced.
OR
If the unit is balanced on a modern machine the replacement pressure plate can be easily matched to the prior assembly due to the file management system within the machine
OR
The pressure plate is the LSST component that is to be balanced/ added to the assembly. Due to this the balancing of the pressure plate WILL NOT imbalance the engine if the balanced pressure plate is removed and replaced any more than it would have been if the original pressure plate had not been balanced.

There are many ways to attack this situation, forethought is the key- as always.


Why couldn't you just neutral balance the PP that way all you have to do is neutral balance any new PP, eliminating the need to rely on a machine shop's file management system.
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thepadawan
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the crank and rods are EMPI, I was told numerous times that there quality had improved (i have dealt with crap from them before). Figured Id try them out.


the funny thing is I have run the chinese 4130 h beams that i got for 199.99 before and loved them, heck I balanced those suckers (like I KNEW i would have to but then again each rod was MUCH closer to each other then this) and never had a problem, those have gone 9K without a problem and have seen 15PSI before...

tells yah a little something about the industry..
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Rowroy
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thepadawan wrote:
the crank and rods are EMPI, I was told numerous times that there quality had improved (i have dealt with crap from them before). Figured Id try them out.
..


By whom?
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Type 5 Joe
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe by the person who sold them.... And won't return them after 30 days.
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"neutral balance"?
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thepadawan
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

3 different vw parts shops in so cal, o well ill just go demello again!
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Luis ''Diablo'' Gutierrez
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so if i get a new crank, flywheel,pulley and rods, do i have to take them to the machine place to get it balance?

Im just learning about balancing

thanks
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Mr. Unpopular
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nsracing wrote:
"neutral balance"?


zero balance
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Florida_Buggy wrote:
nsracing wrote:
"neutral balance"?


zero balance

como?
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Florida_Buggy wrote:
nsracing wrote:
"neutral balance"?


zero balance


there is no such animal. there will always be some unbalance. you cannot attain zero unbalance.

for full racing the tolerance is 0.2 ounce inch. this is the highest grade you can get. that is NOT zero.
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Mr. Unpopular
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeesus christ why are you guys making it so difficult. Zero balance (or as close as you can) the PP, that way, any other PP put on the motor later just needs to be zero balanced (or as close as you can) rather than "15 grams heavy clocked at 7 o'clock". They've been doing this in the V8 world forever, it can't be a foreign concept.
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BugMan114
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't understand the concept of bolting everything together to balence after everything has been individually balenced? if you balence everything individually, then how could it be unbalenced once you bolt it up? is it just the small tolerance (be it .5 gram differnece), added up among all the parts? If thats the case, then on what part do you add or remove material to balence the whole thing once its been assembled? so lets say when you bolt everything up, and it comes out to 1 gram out of balence (not sure what the normal unbalence is after individual balencing, just an example), where would you remove that 1 gram? i would think where ever you remove that 1 gram from, would then make that part unbalenced, no?


Thanks
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Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!!
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where to remove the unbalance?

You will need a Dynamic Balancing machine to "see" where this unbalance is. The machine can tell it to you exactly in degrees where is the heavy side.

Not only the machine tells you in degrees, but in what plane it is in. Left side or Right side.

Bolting it up and indexing the parts will assure the ultimate in keeping the parts stay balanced.

Also, there is a certain tolerance you use for a specific application. You don't need a Full Race balance if you are only going to spin this thing 3000RPM.
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BugMan114
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

but i still don't quite understand how it could possibly be unbalenced if you balence all the parts individually? am i missing something? sorry for the newbish questions, lol.
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Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!!
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you were to balance the individual parts on the EXACT same centerline of rotation as they will have on the engine then they will be balanced.
But this is near impossible to do.
The pressure plate for instance is not going to be perfectly centered, flywheel runout can be .005".
Even .001 off center makes a difference.
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