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Propex installations - photos please
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westyventures
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can supply the specific Y-branches and hose as needed to fit, but the 2800 does use 75mm ID ducting (3") so that should be easy to find other places too.
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Rocky Mountain Westy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey PDXWesty, that's not a bad idea. I'll have to bounce that off the R&D guys. I think the amp idea is pretty solid for sure as the batteries are right there. Hmmm? Question
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Rocky Mountain Westy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there squeegee boy,

The HS2800 won't fit in our locking storage box. I think the only installation option for the big heater is under the back seat.

Correct me if I'm wrong anybody, but I think you may have to remove the rear heater core setup under the seat as well.
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Californio
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tight fit with the 2800, but it still fits with the stock rear heater. The propane inlet is crammed way against the passenger side of the box so you have to pull the heater to undo the propane line.
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j_dirge
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finished up my initial Propex 2800 install yesterday.
REALLY like it (a few things aside). and looking forward to a warm-toasty slope-side vanny this winter.

A question for the board..

Directions have a larger hole cut for exhaust line than intake. Makes sense.
I am not sure it needed to be as big as it is, though.. I have a fair bit of room around the exhaust line. I'd like to seal that up to eliminate road grime inside.
My 2800 install is under rear bench with OEM heater remaining in place.

Am thinking of cutting some flashing.. similar to how Westy did the propane lines in/under the kitchen cabinet in OEM install. Two pieces which slide in and around the line.

Then seal up with a bead of high temp sealant arund the flashing to duct line joint.

Thoughts?
Any photo examples of what you may have done on yours?
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danfromsyr wrote:
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes, the holes (40mm if memory serves well) are a bit big. I used Black RTV High Temp sealant to seal the annular space around the lines
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theDrew
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 2000 CAN fit under the bench with a sub and the stock rear heater, you just have to get a bit creative Smile

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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

madspaniard wrote:
yes, the holes (40mm if memory serves well) are a bit big. I used Black RTV High Temp sealant to seal the annular space around the lines


40mm is like 1 1/2", I've seen 1 1/4" as well as 1 1/16" posted as the hole size. Getting my Ducks lined up
and don't want too big of holes in the floor.
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j_dirge
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timwhy wrote:
madspaniard wrote:
yes, the holes (40mm if memory serves well) are a bit big. I used Black RTV High Temp sealant to seal the annular space around the lines


40mm is like 1 1/2", I've seen 1 1/4" as well as 1 1/16" posted as the hole size. Getting my Ducks lined up
and don't want too big of holes in the floor.

40mm is the size of the combustion air inlet, as noted on the template provided with the 2800 package.
51mm (~2") is the size for the exhaust outlet, as noted on the template

The 40mm hole leaves a few mm gap around the corrugated ducting provided. And is easy to seal up with your choice of selant.
The 51mm hole leaves about 3/8-1/2 inch all around.. maybe a little less, but it will require gobs of sealant to seal that big a gap.
Hence the idea for a thin sheet metal plate to cover the extra hole-age.

I am a bit of stickler when it comes to recommended clearances, so I cut the full 51mm.. I would inquire with Westyventures on what, if any, drawbacks are associated with cutting a smaller hole for the exhaust.

I was thinking.. if I were to do it again, I'd cut the bench wood and subfloor at a full 51mm.. but maybe only 40 for the final sheetmetal cut thru the bottom of the van.

I'd be very careful though.. The smaller that exhaust hole, the less wiggle room you'll have for installing. And with the 2800, its already a snug fit (especially with the stock heater in place)

(Sitting here in my Westy, enjoying the heat, BTW... just dreaming of warm toasty toes after a long winter day of skiing! Very Happy )
_________________
-89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.

-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5

danfromsyr wrote:
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for posting! I am planning on putting my Propex where the rear heater used to live, and I bought the 2000.
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'87 VW Westy
'91 Tin Top
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the template for the HS2000 says 40mm for both inlet and exhaust but I could be wrong.

Jim, what about using a rubber-type material, like the one used for gaskets, so that your pipes are surrounded by something relatively soft and flexible instead of those interlocking plates you mentioned before?
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j_dirge
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

madspaniard wrote:
I think the template for the HS2000 says 40mm for both inlet and exhaust but I could be wrong.

Jim, what about using a rubber-type material, like the one used for gaskets, so that your pipes are surrounded by something relatively soft and flexible instead of those interlocking plates you mentioned before?

Have to verify the degree of heat resistance necessary.. but yeah, this is an idea to explore.
Maybe a fibrous exhaust donut, if I can find one in/near the right size.


Day 3 since the initial install.. I fire it up a couple times a day just to observe its behavior.
Am now wondering if marine exhaust hose might work.. Might reduce some of the exkaust noise.
Will have to check heat range on the marin specific stuff.

Now I need to update an auxiliary battery.... (it never ends, just like outfitting a boat.. one thing leads to another.. Laughing )
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-89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.

-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5

danfromsyr wrote:
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the Propex in the basement, wife doesn't know about the November purchase yet. She'll discover
it when we are in the Westy and its cold, she'll be happy to have it then! Kind of like the 63 qt fridge,
which she asked when it was spotted in the Westy "Did you get a new cooler?" Why yes I did, do
you like it?

Anyway, I just measured the inlet and exhaust on the 2000. Both pipes are 3/4" or so, the two SS
flex pipes are 1" or so. Instead of drilling holes that are 1 1/2" and filling the gap with gobs of RTV.
Am I safe with a smaller diameter hole?
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'87 VW Westy
'91 Tin Top
'90 Cabby
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think so but every time you deviate from the product instructions you take some risks, you coud make the 1 1/2 hole in the cabinet wood and then go smaller for the hole thru the metal. You should be fine as long as you have RTV all around the Propex pipes and there is no contact metal-to-pipe.
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chojinchef
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timwhy wrote:
Got the Propex in the basement, wife doesn't know about the November purchase yet. She'll discover it when we are in the Westy and its cold, she'll be happy to have it then! Kind of like the 63 qt fridge, which she asked when it was spotted in the Westy "Did you get a new cooler?" Why yes I did, do you like it?


Nice tactic. Applause Applause I use the same theory with my wife. Project in planning phase get a rolling eyes and 'how much' look, but fantastic results related directly to her comfort get "two snaps up in a circle".

Now I bypass all of it and proceed directly to 'Go'.

Don't think it will work with a second T3 though.
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

same here with wife tactics....I showed her my new mod adding a side door to the rear closet and she was really happy about being able to access the closet for diapers and clothing thru a wide door. I still need to install the Rocky Mountain Westy lockable drawer under the passenger seat, it has been in the box in my garage for too long, she will love that one for locking the wallet and valuable things too..
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jtrashy
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The larger diameter holes are for heat clearances....the exhaust outlet can get up to 500'
RTV works great for filling the extra space
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theDrew
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

make sure to use the high temp RTV (the red stuff) not the normal black kind. That exhaust pipe gets really really hot
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the holes drilled and the propex mounted. I put the propex where the rear heater was located. Because the rear heater was not sitting on plywood, just the floor. I had to bridge the gap between the plywood with a board. The until would not be able to be screwed down without being at an angle. So countersank some screws thru the board and then screw the propex down to the board. I ended up using a 1 1/2" hole saw for the two larger holes, though I did read that people were using 1 1/4". My only concern is with the heat/temp of the exhaust pipe. I know that people mount these things all the time to the plywood and wood under the sink. I filled the gap around the pipes with RTV, so am I safe to assume that my board with 1 1/2" holes and RTV surrounding the two pipe won't catch the board on fire. Or is there some other suitable material I should be using instead?
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another warm day here in Maine for Jan. 55 degrees and I was able to crawl back under the Westy.
I bought a tube of the Red RTV and filled the entire cavity around the exhaust pipe. I don't
think that my board will catch on fire, no one has posted any problems with their installs thru
the plywood flooring doing so. The fresh air intake got the same treatment with the Red RTV and
both pipes are clamped into position. Have to wait until this coming weekend, when the temps will be
-4 for the low and 18 for the high to complete the job. Seems crazy but the ground is soaked
with melted snow, I would rather the ground be frozen so I don't get soaked. Between now
and this weekend I'll make a new cover for the propex out of the original but lower it a bit to
gain that much needed storage space.
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'09 VW Tiguan (dead)
'87 VW Westy
'91 Tin Top
'90 Cabby
What the Westy wants the Westy GETS


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