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Intercooling a 1.6TD
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BlackDogVan
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone ever come across any info on the stock IC setup? from what I understand there was one on some models? Option maybe? It was a A/A with some ducting from what I seem to recall.
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wildenbeast
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am also interested to see how Herman's intercooler turns out once his van is up and running;

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from http://vanagonsyncroproject-herman.blogspot.com/2007/03/intercooler.html
The intercooler that I use comes from a Saab, it is an all aluminum cooler that I have welded a water jacket around. I also had to cut one of the elbows off and weld a straight connector on.
It fits behind the left taillight and it keeps the hoses to the turbo and intake manifold really short.
I will be using an air conditioning evaporator mounted next to the Vanagon radiator with a cooling fan, the fluid will be pumped around by an electric water pump through the engine oil cooler, transmission oil cooler and then through the intercooler.
This way I don't have to run hoses for 3 coolers to the front.
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BlackDogVan
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some interesting data for this thread...

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=24657.0
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tozovr
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any Updates?
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POS
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 1:44 pm    Post subject: air to air intercooler Reply with quote

Hello All,

Here is the info that I can feed you, according to my experience.
I installed 1.6 td into my vanagon. Phase 1 was the turboed motor with n/a pump, phase 2 added the turbo pump with android boost, phase 3 added the Saab intercooler.

The intercooler was installed in the d column on the driver's side. I cut a bit of metal to get it behind the tail light. I built a dam to deflect air to the top
side of the intercooler blocking off the column so all air would flow thru the intercooler. I wish I could document the temperatures and have considered installing temperature gauges, but have not.

The set up I have made works well and intercooler makes a marked improvement in performance!

According to my undocumented seat of the pants calculations. The process took me from my 48 hp to about about (my guess) 78 hp.
Phase 2 added about 10 hp. Phase 3 added about 10 more hp.

I believe it is very important to seal the intercooler so that all airflow
is directed thru the intercooler and exits into the engine compartment.
The air flow is designed to provide adequate cooling for the air cooled motor, so I believe any changes such as directing air to wheel well or
trying to cool above the transmission a mistake.

So far I only have one 2,000 miles trip under my belt.

Here are some pictures. Hope this helps your journey.


Peace
David

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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is my current install. I posted this originally in this thread on the GTD forum:

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=21424.0

I have just gotten it going so I don't have any data points other than to say that the intercooler inlet temp gauge I am using reads down to 140° and the outlet temp gauge reads down to 100°. Neither gauge has moved up at all (yea, they work).

Quote:
I am fitting a Saab 900 intercooler on the driver's side in front of the taillight at basically a 45° angle and an oil cooler on the passenger side in a similar location but it fits nicely vertically. I will be making a duct from sheet metal that will direct each to either side of the license plate door where I will be cutting a series of louvers. The theory is that the higher pressure of the d-piller and the lower pressure behind the van will assist in pulling the air through both coolers. It is interesting that all of the less than satisfactory installations of oil coolers and Saab 900 intercoolers that I have seen have had the floor of the d-pillar removed. IMO, that's a bad idea as it will nullify the air flow down the d-pillar due to venting into the high pressure area of the back of the wheel well. All of the installations of either type of cooler where folks have been pleased with the temperature drops have been installed so that they vent into the lower pressure engine compartment. In the interest of even better flow and avoiding heat soak when stopped, I decided to vent to the rear.

Intercooler side:

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Oil cooler side:

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I made some sheet metal ducts to direct the air from the oil cooler and the intercooler to vents placed on either side of the license plate door. They are fully gasketed. The intercooler is on the right and the oilcooler is on the left in this picture:

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And another pic from the rear of the van showing the new vents:

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outwesty
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got my TDI on the road. Not a 1.6 but a similar configuration. I finished this today. The intercooler behind the taillight is held up with a snowboard binding buckle and an old leather belt so it is easily removed...No cutting needed.

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Alaric.H
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks really good now you need some numbers.
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avdem
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for posting that POS, i`m just getting around to doing the same myself, will be running a fan underneath the cooler to give some more flow just in case.

Bit of a concern about crud being thrown up by the rear wheel hitting the fan but with som kind of protection i think it`s gonna work out fine.
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done some more testing today of my system and have to say I'm impressed. As I mentioned above, my inlet gauge only reads down to 140°F and my outlet gauge only reads down to 100°F. At 10 psi or below, the gauges never move (this is 60° ambient). If I push it, then with higher boost pressures (15 psi or so) I've seen the inlet temp at 160° and with the outlet at 110°. With sustained 20 psi, the inlet has gotten as high as 212° with the outlet at 125°. If I let off for 30 seconds or so they drop back down off the gauges. I have not yet seen intercooler outlet temps higher than 125°. Currently that gives a peak 65°F difference from ambient. I am sure that when the engine is fully broken in and I put it through more extended high boost situations I will see higher inlet and outlet temps with an even greater difference between the two. This is all without any fan on the intercooler. Shocked If the curves hold true and I ever see inlet temps at the 300°F mark that was quoted earlier, I would be shaving 150°, essentially doubling the effectiveness that was quoted before for air to air systems and still be less than 100° away from ambient. Definitely the numbers are not as good as the air to water numbers that folks have posted but overall I'm pleased especially considering the simpler and significantly less expensive install. I'd have a hard time calling that useless.

The oil temps are remarkably steady and haven't gotten above 210°F.

EGTs with the VNT can't seem to pass 1000°F pre-turbine wihtout having the fueling set where I'm blowing clouds of smoke which I'm not into.

Overall, even with the lowly 1.6TD, intercooler and VNT the van goes very well indeed. Performance easily well exceeds a 2.1 WBX.

I would reiterate what I have said other places, I think that anyone installing an air-to-air intercooler in the D-pillar area would be very ill-advised to cut out the bottom of the D-pillar. They will effectively nullify flow by venting the "high" pressure scoop into the "high" pressure rear of the wheel well. All of the anecdotes I've seen of people who have done so for either intercoolers or oil coolers have seen almost no effect from the coolers. Those individuals who have vented into the engine compartment have found more significant effect from the coolers. I can say firsthand that ducting to the vents cut on either side of the license plate door seems to be significantly more effective for flow and has the added benefit of avoiding any heat soaking into the intercooler from the exhaust.

Definitely fun to see the various installs and data points from folks who have installed the temp probes and gauges. I look forward to seeing more.


Last edited by ?Waldo? on Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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outwesty
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alaric.H wrote:
That looks really good now you need some numbers.


I'm working on it!
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Christopher Schimke
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great job Andrew AND outwesty!

Andrew, I have had that type of idea in my head for a long, long time, but in my version. I was going to relocate the license plate and open up the rear panel large enough for a good sized intercooler. The ducting would then be routed from both side penums to the intercooler. I know that it is kind of tight back there with an I4, but if the intercooler were placed between the taillights, it could stick out past the actual panel by a fair amount and still look integrated into the rear panel area. Maybe some small black panels between the taillights and the intercooler core.
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loogy, I think that's a really good idea, but I wouldn't want to lose the ability to check fluid levels and add without emptying the hatch area. Maybe a hinged intercooler? Very Happy
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
I have done some more testing today of my system and have to say I'm impressed. As I mentioned above, my inlet gauge only reads down to 140°F and my outlet gauge only reads down to 100°F. At 10 psi or below, the gauges never move (this is 60° ambient). If I push it, then with higher boost pressures (15 psi or so) I've seen the inlet temp at 160° and with the outlet at 110°. With sustained 20 psi, the inlet has gotten as high as 212° with the outlet at 125°. If I let off for 30 seconds or so they drop back down off the gauges. I have not yet seen inlet temps higher than 125°. Currently that gives a peak 65°F difference from ambient. I am sure that when the engine is fully broken in and I put it through more extended high boost situations I will see higher inlet and outlet temps with an even greater difference between the two. This is all without any fan on the intercooler. Shocked If the curves hold true and I ever see inlet temps at the 300°F mark that was quoted earlier, I would be shaving 150°, essentially doubling the effectiveness that was quoted before for air to air systems and still be less than 100° away from ambient. Definitely the numbers are not as good as the air to water numbers that folks have posted but overall I'm pleased especially considering the simpler and significantly less expensive install. I'd have a hard time calling that useless.

The oil temps are remarkably steady and haven't gotten above 210°F.

EGTs with the VNT can't seem to pass 1000°F pre-turbine wihtout having the fueling set where I'm blowing clouds of smoke which I'm not into.

Overall, even with the lowly 1.6TD, intercooler and VNT the van goes very well indeed. Performance easily well exceeds a 2.1 WBX.

I would reiterate what I have said other places, I think that anyone installing an air-to-air intercooler in the D-pillar area would be very ill-advised to cut out the bottom of the D-pillar. They will effectively nullify flow by venting the "high" pressure scoop into the "high" pressure rear of the wheel well. All of the anecdotes I've seen of people who have done so for either intercoolers or oil coolers have seen almost no effect from the coolers. Those individuals who have vented into the engine compartment have found more significant effect from the coolers. I can say firsthand that ducting to the vents cut on either side of the license plate door seems to be significantly more effective for flow and has the added benefit of avoiding any heat soaking into the intercooler from the exhaust.

Definitely fun to see the various installs and data points from folks who have installed the temp probes and gauges. I look forward to seeing more.


This is very interesting to read.

I run a Pace 3 core charge cooler on my 2.5TDi with a seperate water system - radiator up front etc. I've never measured the inlet and outlet temps (will have to do this!) but even after a hard run, I can take the top off the water system and the water is only luke warm.

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Re Oil coolers and using air from the D pillar inlet. I mounted mine at the bottom of the right hand side (my oil temps would easily get to 120oC (250oF) if I pushed it). It's thermostatically controlled to open at 90oC (194oF). I did it in stages...

1) Mount the oil cooler with no ducting - made a little bit of difference and it was obvious when the oil valve opened but I could still get it too hot easily.

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2) Fit ally sheet around the oil cooler to block off most of the air getting around the oil cooler.

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This really made a huge difference. I can comfortably cruise at 70mph without the oil temps going above 90oC (194oF).

3) After a chat with a friend who's also an Engineer, I went around all the small gaps with some gaffa tape and again the difference was a lot.

Driving now I can happily sit at 80mph with oil temps or around 95oC (203oF).

I have found situations where temps will get over 100oC (212oF) like towing in a low gear with high rpms (steep hills etc) and at some point I'll probably fit a fan with a temp switch to cut in at 95oC (203oF) and cut out at 90oC (194oF).

I could move the oil cooler to the front of the van but it's working so far but the vent is only just supplying enough air to keep everything happy.

MG
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did some more driving today and took it on some more significant grades (up 180 toward the Grand Canyon). It outperforms my 2.0L ABA inline-4 gasser passenger vanagon when it was in it's prime. Smile I managed to get pre-intercooler temps up to 240°. Post intercooler didn't break 120° (colder ambient temps this morning in the upper 40s). EGTs got up there to 1250° if I stayed on the go pedal. Oil temps were up to 225° at most even with the extended grades. I'll be curious to see what they do in hotter temps.
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tozovr
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love this.

My plan is to cherry pick my process from all of you.

I think I'm going Air to water and something similar to what Outwesty did.

Mr Libby's setup looks like the best engineered out there but my Van is my daily and an involved process like that would likely have me off teh road for more than a weekend as well as chopping and welding more than I should LOL.

The biggest hurdle for the planned setup is where to move my air filter and what will I rout it with. In the grand scheme of things, not a huge deal really. Currently the filter resides at the bottom of my driver's D pillar.

CX racing has some good deals on Intercooler/heat exchangers and pumps right now. so For under $200 I could get it here, in front of me and start tinkering while I work out the details. Fit the exchanger and hoses, re-locate my intake filter and then do the move to the intercooler in one swoop.

First step is monitoring the vitals. Need an EGT gauge and boost gauge.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
EGTs got up there to 1250° if I stayed on the go pedal. Oil temps were up to 225° at most even with the extended grades. I'll be curious to see what they do in hotter temps.


225 is great for oil temps although the EGTs seem a bit high. I am curious how long you were climbing and if you know how much elevation you gained?
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EGTs are determined by fuel to air ratio and all I can say is it's not over or under-fueled. I'm comfortable with 1250° pre-turbine. I'd be o.k. with 1300-1350 pre-turbine as a peak and even consider that a decent safety margin for gauge error and probe lag. I'll leave the fueling where it is for now. If EGTs/fueling were reduced, oil temps would follow suit.

The grades were not extreme, but were extended. I think I gained 1500 feet over 20 miles, but most of it is gradual incline with a couple short downhills and a couple sections that are much steeper long inclines. Once I'm confident that the engine is well broken in I will hit the extended grades coming from Ash Fork to Flagstaff or from Verde Valley to Flagstaff either of which are a gain of 1,500 ft over a couple miles of 6% grade. I'll report back as I get more data points.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew,
Any more data? I am finally mocking up my saab intercooler and will be venting into the engine compartment. I plan to reroute my aircleaner away from the heat, just haven't decided where yet. I also have a 1000 CFM fan pushing air from the inlet above the DS D pillar. I know a lot of people are saying that it is a waste, but it has to be better than no charge cooling at all. I don't have any probes, so I won't have any specific data. I would like to hear how yours is turning out!
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have any further data yet. When I built the injection pump I used some experimental pieces and haven't been entirely pleased. Because of that, I haven't been driving it much. I will get to pulling the pump before long and will report back.
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