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Zombie's Customs 4" beam build
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zombiescustoms
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:00 pm    Post subject: Zombie's Customs 4" beam build Reply with quote

I know this has been covered a lot but I wanted to do a step by step description of building a narrowed, lowered beam, with some tweeks from the standard off the shelf narrowed beams.

here we go:
beginning, bone stock, 5.5 inch chromies and 205/60 15 rears and 175/55 fronts
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your standard 1964 king and link pin beam
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wire wheeled to remove crud
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marking for cuts to be made, I'll be cutting 4" but off set from the center
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removing uprights
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going under the blade
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I'm not using the tubes supplied with the sway away style adjusters in stead I cut the beam off set from center and notched it using a 1/2" end mill
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Notice how much longer I made the slot as compared to the off the shelf adjuster, this will give you more range of adjustment
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adjuster pieces rotated to allow more drop
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here is what the car look like all the way down with no dropped spindles
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and yes it is just about on the buckets, spindles on the way!
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I will have more pics of the beam once I take it out to do the shock towers


Last edited by zombiescustoms on Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jgowin
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good ideal, I like the ideal of only cutting the beam once.

Last edited by Jgowin on Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:12 am; edited 1 time in total
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spectre6000
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think there might be a step or two missing for those of us who are new to the idea of beam narrowing. Why did you remove the part that goes between the beams and attaches to the frame head? Why remove the 4" off center? Are the adjustable parts sold separately? I've only ever seen them on finished beams. How did you narrow the torsion bars themselves? Sorry if any of these questions are beyond naivete, I've never seen this done before.
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59eurobug
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spectre6000 wrote:
I think there might be a step or two missing for those of us who are new to the idea of beam narrowing. Why did you remove the part that goes between the beams and attaches to the frame head? Why remove the 4" off center? Are the adjustable parts sold separately? I've only ever seen them on finished beams. How did you narrow the torsion bars themselves? Sorry if any of these questions are beyond naivete, I've never seen this done before.


He removed the beam uprights, or framehead mounts so he could place them at the correct distance seeing that he narrowed the beam 4 inches, so then they'd be 4 inches closer to each other.

He removed the 4 inches off center so that when he welds it back together the weld is not right in the center of the beam where the adjuster is going to be. a weld there would not let the adjuster turn nor fit.

The adjusters are sold by themselves, look up "beam adjuster" on the classifieds here.

He didn't say how he narrowed the torsion springs but wht i do is zip tie them together and cut off half of my total narrow width from each end, then redimple them with a 90 degree bit 5/8" from the new end after i weld the springs together on the ends.
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zombiescustoms
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 5:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

59eurobug covered most of your questions, the adjuster parts are not sold separately, i just cut up a set with a cut off wheel, as for cutting the torsions, rap with duct tape or a zip tie and use a cut off wheel here too, I narrowed 4" so I took 2" off each end, another tip is to install the leaves in the beam before cutting them, they seem to slide in the arms better than they slide in the adjuster center after they are cut.

The reason the beam is cut off center is that I used the beam tube to mount the adjuster as opposed to the thinner (probably crap) tube that comes with the adjuster, this way there is only one seam to weld and it is all original German metal.
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iaccy
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you still running shocks? did you have to modify the shock mounts to fit without hacking the body? And what about the steering gear box? How did you know where to weld that back on? Sorry to bombard you with questions.
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Jerry Hundley
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really like the way you did the adjusters. The next one I do will be that way. Very cool
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zombiescustoms
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

iaccy wrote:
Are you still running shocks? did you have to modify the shock mounts to fit without hacking the body? And what about the steering gear box? How did you know where to weld that back on? Sorry to bombard you with questions.


I just got some 1/4" cold rolled to make the shock towers, I'll take some pics tonight as I continue the build, i took careful measurements of all the component locations, steering box tabs, stabilizer mounts etc., to make sure they go back on in the correct locations, I'll be mounting the box and shortening the tie rods tonight also.
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zombiescustoms
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was up till 1am working last night on tie rods and torsion dimples, the beam ended up in and out of the car twice and now just needs shock towers.

here are some pics:
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I used the old sway bar to insert inside of the tie rods for strength
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mdnick
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice work... you get worried about welding tie rod ends at all?
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ottvw
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When doing the tie rods it's easier to cut off 4" off one side then retap the side you cut off.
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drscope
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ottvw wrote:
When doing the tie rods it's easier to cut off 4" off one side then retap the side you cut off.


How is that easier then just taking a few inches out of the center and welding the ends back together?
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zombiescustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 3:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless you have a 14mmx1.5 tap laying around, it is way easier to cut and weld, takes like 10 minutes, and its free, and the sway bar makes it more than strong enough.
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Joey
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

67dub wrote:
Good ideal, I like the ideal of only cutting the beam once.


I agree.

Nice work! Nice car too.

I narrow my tie rods the same way as you did using a piece of sway bar as reinforcement.

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LUNATIK
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to tackle narrowing the beam of one of my VW's this weekend, I have never done this job before but it look very straight forward, but the only thing that I will need for someone to explain to me is the reposition of the damper; does you move the damper back or buy a short type steering damper?

Regards
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zombiescustoms
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LUNATIK wrote:
I'm going to tackle narrowing the beam of one of my VW's this weekend, I have never done this job before but it look very straight forward, but the only thing that I will need for someone to explain to me is the reposition of the damper; does you move the damper back or buy a short type steering damper?

Regards

move the mount over half the amount narrowed, and remember measure everything before you start cutting or removing stuff, it makes it go much smoother!
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50ate
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ottvw wrote:
When doing the tie rods it's easier to cut off 4" off one side then retap the side you cut off.


NO way is it easier then cutting and welding them up
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