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calsurf
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 8:44 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

Looks great, congrats. I wish there was a "Like" button for each post on this forum
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 9:08 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

^^^ <Like>

Agreed.
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Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 11:27 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

tim_ha wrote:
PSA to those Do-It-Yourself installers: I would strongly recommend against using Evercoat Maxim epoxy to adhere the hightop to your van.

I mocked up a overlap joint similar to that between the hightop and the van using some scrap angle iron and a chunk of fiberglass from one of my window cutouts. I prepped the metal using the same wire wheel that I used to remove paint on the van and scuffed the fiberglass using 80 grit sandpaper. The metal was cleaned with acetone and the fiberglass was cleaned with alcohol. Then, I bonded them together using leftover Evercoat Maxim 815.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After the 24 hour cure time, I tested the strength of my mock bond and was sorely disappointed. With with surprisingly little force, the epoxy stripped right off of the fiberglass leaving almost no residue. It did appear to have good adhesion to the metal. I tested it with a chisel and could not get the epoxy to break cleanly off of the metal like it did on the fiberglass side. The only thing that I can think I may have done wrong in surface prep would be that I didn't sand the fiberglass aggressively enough. One other comment on the epoxy... It cures very hard with no flexibility. This is another reason I would advise against its use. It will not allow for different expansion/contraction rates of the fiberglass and metal nor will it handle vibration very well.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I currently have a similar mock up using Sikaflex 221 curing and plan to do the same with 3M 5200. To save my situation and give me confidence in my hightop bond, I plan to squeeze a bunch of 3M 5200 down into the void between the roof and the hightop. I believe there is sufficient surface area down there to save my situation without trying to de-bond the Evercoat Maxim and potentially damaging the fiberglass.


That fiberglass looks barely scuffed. When epoxy sets up it creates a film on top that is resistant to many adhesives. You can see it as the shiny surface. To scuff it fully there should be no sheen remaining.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 11:55 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

When fibreglass cures there is a thin layer of wax that is released to the surface of the wet resin/hardener mix - this is deliberate to limit the contact with the air and slow the curing rate of the mix. The first step of any install is to put several pails of warm soapy water into the inverted top and give the inside a thorough scrub, wash and rinse. nothing will bond well with the fibreglass if this is not done - the waxy surface residue has to be removed.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 7:23 pm    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

tim_ha wrote:
PSA to those Do-It-Yourself installers: I would strongly recommend against using Evercoat Maxim epoxy to adhere the hightop to your van.

I mocked up an overlap joint similar to that between the hightop and the van using some scrap angle iron and a chunk of fiberglass from one of my window cutouts. I prepped..........and scuffed the fiberglass using 80 grit sandpaper. The metal was cleaned with acetone and the fiberglass was cleaned with alcohol. Then, I bonded them together using leftover Evercoat Maxim 815.

With with surprisingly little force, the epoxy stripped right off of the fiberglass leaving almost no residue.


Yes, there is wax on the surface of gelcoat. it can happen two ways. In the case of non wax laminating gelcoats, the wax from the female mold used as a release agent will appear on the surface. If wax included gelcoat is used, the wax in the resin will come to the surface. Waxed gelcoat is usually not used in a part which will then have additional resin and cloth to build up to the desired thickness as the wax will prevent a decent bond to the subsequent layer of glass and resin. The amount of wax on the surface of the gelcoat will vary, but fro a good bond or for an application of paint or and additional surface treatment, dewaxing is necessary. However, if the surface is sanded, the grooves will not have wax in them. Some wax will be transferred to the newly exposed surface, but to have the type of release Tim-ha had implies something else is going on here, such as the type of bond that 8913 can achieve. Note that they do not claim a structural bond. Also interesting is the cartridge itself which does not mention fiberglass although the technical data sheet says it works well on fiberglass.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
I would suggest doing a couple more tests for your peace of mind. Do an another exactly as your previous test, but clean the fiberglass with acetone first. Then sand with 80 grit just as you did before. If the fiberglass comes off as easily as the first test, then the wax was not the issue and this will indicate the best this adhesive is capable of doing.

All that said, you tested a 4" strip of glass to metal and your high top has almost 400 inches of the perimeter you bonded. Ten times the length of the test. In all likelihood, all will be fine. There don't see to be any complaints that folks who used 813/15 as a bonding agent wound up losing their high top on the highway at speed. If you are really nervous, clean both surfaces inside with gasoline and then acetone. Put a bead of 5200 at the joint and wipe a nice fillet with your finger while in a protective glove. Tape it off first and then remove the tape immediately after finishing the fillet.

Duncan
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 8:29 pm    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

Fiberglass itself does not cure. The adhesive, in this case epoxy, is what cures.

As Duncan said try the test again but really sand off that shiny surface layer from the epoxy.

I used an angle grinder on my euroBus top and have no doubt it is bonded.

That being said I will use 3M5200 on my next one for the ease of working time. As Duncan said you must wait many days for it to cure.
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tim_ha
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 8:01 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

Here are results from a Sikaflex 221 metal to fiberglass bond test.

I did the exact same surface prep as I did for the Evercoat Maxim. According to the tech sheet, this ~3mm thick application cures in ~2 days. I gave it 3. I am not convinced it was fully cured because I smelled it as soon as the failure occurred (and quickly put on my ventilator). Note that the Sikaflex had no problem bonding to the same surface prep. As can be seen in the video, I was pulling on it hard enough to nearly damage the fiberglass. The failure was as I pulled on the edge so that there was only stress along the edge of the bond. This type of stress would be impossible on a hightop. Also, look at how much the ~3mm thick bond is able to flex! I wouldn't hesitate to use this adhesive.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Failure testing:

Link


Comparing the data sheet for the Sikaflex 221 to 3M 5200...
Sika has tensile strength of 1.8 MPa = 261 psi
3m 5200 overlap sheer strength is reported to be 530 lb/in2 for cold rolled steel and 360 lb/in2 for Fiber-Reinforced Plastic.
I am not sure if this is an apples to apples comparison.

I also set up another test of the Evercoat Maxim with suggested improved surface prep. I will post results when I have them.

Based on testing thus far, I am considering breaking the Evercoat Maxim bond and cleaning all of it off of the fiberglass and as much off of the metal as is reasonable. Then I can improve my surface prep of the fiberglass and use either Sikaflex 221 or the 3M 5200 Fast Cure that I have on hand to completely redo the bond.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 8:07 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/576967O/3mtm-marine-adhesive-sealant-fast-cure-5200.pdf
https://technicaldatasheets.3m.com/en_US?pif=000890

These are the data sheets for both 5200 and 4200. 4200 is not as strong but is removable--with difficulty--unlike 5200 which can not be removed. Check the data sheets, for 4200, it has a psi of 125 on steel and 20 on fiberglass. 5200 is much stronger with its bond. If you remove it from fiberglass, it will tear apart the laminations at it is stronger than the fiberglass resins. I found this out the hard way on my boat. It is NOT a bedding compound, it is a bonding agent.

Although they don't mention it, 5200 comes in three colors--white, black and mahogany.

I didn't check it out, but assume slow cure is stronger. That may not be correct.

Duncan
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 8:15 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

tim_ha wrote:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I am considering breaking the Evercoat Maxim bond and cleaning all of it off of the fiberglass and as much off of the metal as is reasonable. Then I can improve my surface prep of the fiberglass and use either Sikaflex 221 or the 3M 5200 Fast Cure that I have on hand to completely redo the bond.


Tim--Note that the epoxy itself failed, not the bond to the surfaces. This means that you have to remove 100% of the 813 as anything you put over it will fail also when the residual 813 fails.

I really don't think this is necessary. Just add a bead of 5200 inside as I suggested earlier and I think you will be fine.

Also, note the porosity in the separated 813. It looks like it may not be totally water proof. As you suggested to others, don't use this stuff.

Duncan
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 8:45 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

DuncanS wrote:

Tim--Note that the epoxy itself failed, not the bond to the surfaces. This means that you have to remove 100% of the 813 as anything you put over it will fail also when the residual 813 fails.

I really don't think this is necessary. Just add a bead of 5200 inside as I suggested earlier and I think you will be fine.

Also, note the porosity in the separated 813. It looks like it may not be totally water proof. As you suggested to others, don't use this stuff.
Duncan


Maybe the way I posted was confusing. The latest post was a test of Sikaflex 221.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 9:28 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

Yep. I would not debond what you have done. Add 5200 to it and I think you'll be fine. (It is what I would do if this was mine.) YMMV.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 11:20 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

It would appear that the 5200 is now a better choice than the Evercoat for bonding the top to a van. The selection of the Maxim, and subsequent substitution of other panel adhesives by some installers was based on the research at the time when we began installing hightops. Things change, new products emerge and best practice follows.
I should mention - perhaps as a disclaimer - that all of the advice that I have given folks wrt installing a hightop has been specifically and solely intended for a NAHT hightop. The NAHT is designed to maximize the contact patch between hightop and van along each side - if another hightop does not have the same mating surface contact patch then other installation protocols would have to be developed specifically for that top. Similarly, the NAHT top is constructed of hand laid fibreglass - we know of its characteristics and what has been successful wrt preparation of the contact patch and bonding - what we know re the NAHT top may not apply to a chopper gunned top.
I mention this because a few years ago someone brought 10 hightops into the west coast from Europe - that they sat in San Diego while folks who had been part of the group purchase called our installers asking when they were going to get them (we had Nothing to do with anything related to tops) and questions wrt to installing them - this was all annoying enough - BUT the final straw for me was a call from a lawyer representing someone who had installed one of the 10 imported tops and had it blow off - insinuating that I was somehow culpable because the person had "followed all of the recommended steps as per the website and on the "New Hightop Option" Samba thread. I pointed out that the discussions to which I contributed were specifically related to the NAHT tops and not intended to be a generic installation guide. It turned out that the top that blew off was designed to be secured to a flange that went around the entire interior perimeter of the van, riveted to the van itself and the hightop then fastened to the flange - the top itself "sat" above the contact patch that we use for NAHT installation. None of this information was available from the person who imported the tops - in my opinion, it should have been.
If I am asked for advice wrt the installation of a top other than a NAHT I usually try to be as helpful as I can be but always recommend that the person contact whomever they bought the top from for their specific advice and guidance. I would have done so wrt Tim_Ha as well had I realized that we were talking about a top other than a NAHT. I'm "all for" the availability of a variety of hightops but I think there's a degree of unfairness if the folks supplying tops other than the NAHT do not actively support the installation of the tops they are supplying and rely pretty solely on the collective experience and body of knowledge resultant from NAHT installs.
The current discussion wrt to adhesives is an example - many - if not all - of the people who have contributed to the discussion with respect to the installation of the top in question have responded from the perspective of their experience in installing a NAHT top - that experience may or may not be appropriate or relevant to a different shaped hightop that may be constructed differently and may contact the van differently than the NAHT. It's the nature of most of us and this forum to be helpful and supportive whenever we can be and so we respond whenever we can with the best advice we can offer. Having said that however, I firmly believe that the first source of advice and support should be provided by the supplier of the product.
JC
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 1:44 pm    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

Hi Tim, glad you made a test sample.

If the humidity is too low, it will take much longer for it to cure (maybe 4 to 5x longer). Ideally, it needs to be what the epoxy calls out for. It will still cure though. Temp is important too, but I think humidity is more critical.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2023 2:32 pm    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

J Charlton wrote:

I should mention - perhaps as a disclaimer - that all of the advice that I have given folks wrt installing a hightop has been specifically and solely intended for a NAHT hightop. The NAHT is designed to maximize the contact patch between hightop and van along each side - if another hightop does not have the same mating surface contact patch then other installation protocols would have to be developed specifically for that top. Similarly, the NAHT top is constructed of hand laid fibreglass - we know of its characteristics and what has been successful wrt preparation of the contact patch and bonding - what we know re the NAHT top may not apply to a chopper gunned top.
I mention this because a few years ago someone brought 10 hightops into the west coast from Europe - that they sat in San Diego while folks who had been part of the group purchase called our installers asking when they were going to get them (we had Nothing to do with anything related to tops) and questions wrt to installing them - this was all annoying enough - BUT the final straw for me was a call from a lawyer representing someone who had installed one of the 10 imported tops and had it blow off - insinuating that I was somehow culpable because the person had "followed all of the recommended steps as per the website and on the "New Hightop Option" Samba thread. I pointed out that the discussions to which I contributed were specifically related to the NAHT tops and not intended to be a generic installation guide. It turned out that the top that blew off was designed to be secured to a flange that went around the entire interior perimeter of the van, riveted to the van itself and the hightop then fastened to the flange - the top itself "sat" above the contact patch that we use for NAHT installation. None of this information was available from the person who imported the tops - in my opinion, it should have been.
If I am asked for advice wrt the installation of a top other than a NAHT I usually try to be as helpful as I can be but always recommend that the person contact whomever they bought the top from for their specific advice and guidance. I would have done so wrt Tim_Ha as well had I realized that we were talking about a top other than a NAHT. I'm "all for" the availability of a variety of hightops but I think there's a degree of unfairness if the folks supplying tops other than the NAHT do not actively support the installation of the tops they are supplying and rely pretty solely on the collective experience and body of knowledge resultant from NAHT installs.
The current discussion wrt to adhesives is an example - many - if not all - of the people who have contributed to the discussion with respect to the installation of the top in question have responded from the perspective of their experience in installing a NAHT top - that experience may or may not be appropriate or relevant to a different shaped hightop that may be constructed differently and may contact the van differently than the NAHT. It's the nature of most of us and this forum to be helpful and supportive whenever we can be and so we respond whenever we can with the best advice we can offer. Having said that however, I firmly believe that the first source of advice and support should be provided by the supplier of the product.
JC


JC,

I thank you for all of the great advice you have provided and, even though I went a different way, all of the effort you have put in to providing a fantastic product to our community.

I did not intend any of this to be an attack against you or your advice. The reason I did the test bond in the first place is because I acknowledge that any failure would be only my own fault and I wanted some peace of mind knowing that my hightop will not fly off and end up killing another motorist. I thought that the results were surprising enough that they should be shared as a cautionary tale. PM me if you would like me to move my posts to a new thread.
~Tim
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2023 5:27 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

tim_ha - let me apologize if what I wrote was taken as a "shot" at you personally. It was not intended to be. My only intention was to raise the awareness of the T3 community wrt providing generic advice without referencing the specific circumstances that provide the basis of one's experience, hence the advice. My example of the "contact patch" variance between between hightop shapes illustrates the point.
I welcome your experimentation and the results you achieved with the alternative adhesive - I'm sure it will become the "go to" of future NAHT installs. However - and perhaps I'm being overly cautious - I will continue to be wary of recommending any adhesive or protocol for the adhesion of a hightop to a T3 other than a NAHT top, simply because without seeing the top and how it fits I would not know how extensive the "contact patch" between the van and hightop is. I emphatically believe that the recommendations for attaching any hightop should come from the producer / fabricator of the specific top so that they can "stand behind" their product and be held accountable for its performance.
Thank you for your research and your input.
JC
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2023 10:11 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

tim_ha wrote:

3M 5200 overlap sheer strength is reported to be 530 lb/in2 for cold rolled steel and 360 lb/in2 for Fiber-Reinforced Plastic.
OK so how much force does it take to blow a high top off?

According to Mr. G. O. Ogle:

Wind Pressure
You can get a general idea of the pressure on a 1-foot–by–1-foot section of a structure by using the following formula: wind pressure per square foot = 0.00256 x the square of the wind speed. For example, a 40-mile-per-hour (mph) wind speed creates a pressure of (0.00256 x (40)^2) = 4.096 pounds per squarefoot (psf). According to this formula, a structure meant to withstand 100-mph winds must be built to resist a wind pressure of 25.6 psf. This is a safety factor of 6ish.

Because I'm a nut job and want to fly electric indoor airplane models inside my T3, I'm going to have a high top which is 6' wide and 6' high. And because I'm in a hurry to get to the meet, I have a 300 HP engine and plan to drive at 100MPH. Thus from the above 36 x 25.6 = a pressure on the front of my monstrosity is 921.6 pounds total. But because of the flat front I have the drag coefficient is 2 so I have a total force of 1850 pounds trying to remove it. I have rounded up and also included the force the lowered pressure in the back trying to force it forward and fighting some of the wind.

Divide the 1850 by total linear bond length--T3 top measures 135 x 110 or 380 lineal inches. Divide the 1850 by 360 and you have 5 psi per square inch. Divide that by the 360psi that 5200 can achieve gives us a requirement of a number which is so small it is negligible. But for the sake of argument even with the safety factor of over 6, let's put a 1/4" bead on.


If My Monster high top is bonded the full perimeter around the top of a T3, with all that overkill, what does this mean?

In all seriousness, for a bit of reality, drop the hight to to a frontal area of 24" by 55", not even bothering to taper the top, for 9 square feet or a quarter of the Duncan Disaster, so instead of 1/4"" of bonding surface you only need a 1/32" bead of 5200. And that's at 100 MPH with a safety factor of !!! And the Drag Coefficient won't be 2 either, probably more like 1.6 And all this at a safety factor of over 6!!!.

If you can get a 1/4" bead of 5200 that will be way, way over kill.

So tim-ha, what have you got? Let's say you have a sheer release of 100 psi as I assume you did a peal, then you need at least a 1/4" and you still have a safety factor of some giant factor.. If your crummy bead is an inch wide like your test, you will have a safety factor of at least 9 gillion.

I. E. Don't worry about it. You will be fine. But try a one square inch bond and pull like hell and see what happens. To get a real number, clamp the tin in a vise and pull with a lever and a scale attached to the end of the lever. Use a 4:1 lever and if you get 10 pounds you are smoking. And remember the 5200 bead on the inside needs to be almost nothing to do the job even without the 813 at all.

Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2023 5:17 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

Thank You Duncan !!
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2023 7:53 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

J Charlton wrote:
tim_ha - let me apologize

Thanks for clarifying. I'm glad we are on the same page.

DuncanS wrote:
If you can get a 1/4" bead of 5200 that will be way, way over kill.

Thanks for doing the math. I suspected the answer was something like this, but the magnitude of the scale factor blew me away.

No pictures, but the top is now permanently bonded. On Saturday, I added a tube of 3M 5200 Fast Cure down each side and used Sikaflex 221 front and rear because I had it and I got it in a nice gray that matches the hightop color well. The van is tucked safely in my buddies shop to cure. I can't wait to get moving on the interior finishing.
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1986 Syncro Sunroof EJ22
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J Charlton Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2023 7:03 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

Just an update for folks who are considering the addition of an NAHT top to their van. The current "availability" figures posted in my sig line are - or can be somewhat misleading - I'm currently in conversations with folks which, if all culminated in purchases of tops, would reduce the current inventory of tops significantly. In some locations, existing inventory would be eliminated. The slowdown of the economy of North America has had an impact on discretionary spending and the impact has been specifically more noticeable in the budget conscious DIY sector. I mention this just as a "heads up" - I suggest monitoring top availability as per my sig line and using your best judgement if you are hoping to either install a hightop yourself or have one installed for you.
The one exception to this would be installations done by our fabricator/ installer Terry in Lakefield, Ontario, Canada. Terry can almost always make up one or two or three tops for installs that he would do at his shop in Lakefield. Anyone East of the Mississippi who would be considering having a top installed would be well advised to consider either shipping their van to Terry or driving and flying back and forth to have a top installed. Given the current exchange rates CDN dollar relative to USD the savings in cost of labour could make it attractive. The cost of the top would be the same in USD however. Terry likes to do two installs pretty much simultaneously and he has a "time window" opening in the next 4-6 weeks. Contact me for further details if interested.
JC
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NAHT hightop availability May 18 2023 -
Bend Oregon - for Oregon, California- (7 tot , 3 available), Kennewick Wa (6 tot, 1 available), Small Car Performance Fife Wa. (7 tot 4 avail ), Fairbanks Alaska (1 tot 0 avail)
Future availability TBD : Springfield Mass. Staunton Va, Florida, Colorado, Grand Junction Co., SLC probably late 2024
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2023 10:13 am    Post subject: Re: New Hightop Option Reply with quote

There was a post that coast mountain high tops are going to be made in the US. Vivid vans in BC and santa cruz will be an authorized dealer, will install as well.
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