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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50352
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 Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2016 3:52 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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| Terry Kay wrote: |
Eventually that core will be plugged solid with dirt, dust & heater intake debris.
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Yeap that is exactly how the German engineers design the core and restrictor plate, the core will be close to complete clogged by the time the original heater motor seizes up at somewhere around 100K miles depending on where you live and the usage your van sees, but not even a drop of oil is necessary to cause this, the Germans did it by adding the restrictor plate concentrating the debris to a very small area of the core. The core clogging is just going to go on whether you relube the bearings or not, but you can greatly lessen it by removing the baffle/restrictor restrictor plate.
Keep inventing problems that no one has ever experience, it just helps prove how weak your arguments are. |
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9618
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2016 3:53 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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| Terry Kay wrote: |
I don't waste my time boring holes in the front header panel, and pissing oil all over the inside of the heater box & heater core.
No need to.
I greased the new shaft & bearings when I replaced the original motor--19 years ago. |
In 2009, my van was 19 years old, about the same as the grease on yours. And it squeaked. So I drilled a Mullendore port gave it a squirt and it's been quiet for 8 years.
I see the source of your conflict..... you remember how much work that was tearing the dash apart 19 years ago, and knowing that the time is coming again:
to tear the dash apart ===== OR ======= the "Mullendore port".
Tough choice between several hours or some minutes. Good luck with that one. As for me if/when it ever squeaks again I'll squirt it again.
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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Terry Kay
Banned
Joined: June 22, 2003
Posts: 13331
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2016 4:15 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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Remove the restrictor plate.
Good thinking.
Make sure the entire core get's tarred & feathered evenly.
The motor still runs fine in my front heater.
I doubt it will require re-greasing.
It's a fare weather vehicle these days.
_________________
T.K. |
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dobryan
Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2006
Posts: 16505
Location: Brookeville, MD
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jimf909 
Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2014
Posts: 7474
Location: WA/ID
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| Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 3:42 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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My fan just started squeaking occasionally so I'm looking forward to giving this a try.
_________________
- Jim
| Abscate wrote: |
Do not get killed, do not kill others.
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Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.
Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro). |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50352
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| Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 4:07 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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| jimf909 wrote: |
| My fan just started squeaking occasionally so I'm looking forward to giving this a try. |
Do it soon or you will start melting wiring and maybe burn the motor up. Motors don't like turning slower than they are designed to and have a much higher amp load when they run slow. |
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Terry Kay
Banned
Joined: June 22, 2003
Posts: 13331
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| Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 4:16 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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Along with drawing more amps, they also produce a real hot motor with the dragging shaft & bushings.
Not good.
_________________
T.K. |
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jimf909
Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2014
Posts: 7474
Location: WA/ID
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| Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 4:29 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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Thanks for the encouragement and motivation!
_________________
- Jim
| Abscate wrote: |
Do not get killed, do not kill others.
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Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.
Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro). |
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0to60in6min
Samba Member
Joined: November 27, 2006
Posts: 3417
Location: OR & CA (Oregon/California)
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| Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2016 9:37 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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| Quote: |
| Flood the bearing with a good lube, let it sit for a while, then use a long rod to reach up to spin the fan blades at the same time an assistant turns the switch on. |
I drilled 2 holes.. gave lot of shot of PB Blaster.. but no result yet...
could anyone please help how to reach the fan blades as mentioned above? thru the hole I drilled or where?
thanks |
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Zeitgeist 13
Samba Member
Joined: March 05, 2009
Posts: 12115
Location: Port Manteau
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| Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2016 10:03 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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I drilled a 13mm hole, which allowed me to slip a long rod, the Triflow tube and my line of sight through the same hole. I also lit up the space with a lighted inspection camera on a flexible wand over the top of the vent space. Give a good shot of lube and then use the rod to push on the fan blade while someone inside turns on the fan. Worked like a charm
_________________
Casey--
'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik? |
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0to60in6min
Samba Member
Joined: November 27, 2006
Posts: 3417
Location: OR & CA (Oregon/California)
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| Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2016 10:58 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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thanks Zeitgeist 13
may be I am blind looking thru the 2 holes but I don't see the blades at all... are they just on left side of the bearing?
many thanks |
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jeffsab
Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2011
Posts: 93
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 9:23 am Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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So I'm about to drill my hole.
For lubricant I have sitting on the shelf here Prolong SPL100, Liquid Wrench Lubricating Oil, and Jig-A-Loo. Which one would be most ideal? Or do I really have to go find a bottle of this Triflow? |
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9618
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 9:38 am Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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Lots of vanagon owners are bicyclists, so they already have Tri-Flow. Any spray stuff that deposits a grease will work.
Light oils evaporate. Motor oil evaporates too, for example. For a counterpoint, a common product WD-40 lubes quickly, doesn't make a mess, evaporates 100%, (gone). You probably knew that, many do. Wrong lube of course.
Anyway look for one that uses a light oil or solvent to "deposit a grease". There are HUNDREDS of squirt lubes that will work here.
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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jeffsab
Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2011
Posts: 93
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 1:32 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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FWIW I went with the Liquid Wrench; it seemed the "oiliest."
I wound up drilling two 3/8-inch holes and afterwards plugged them with some plastic trim fasteners I got at Napa. |
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9618
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 2:12 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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| jeffsab wrote: |
| FWIW I went with the Liquid Wrench; it seemed the oiliest. |
Liquid Wrench penetrating oil? Penetrating oil probably evaporates to nothing. Its good to start with. I can see using a penetrating oil like a solvent to soften up the old hardedned "stuff" but you want an oil where the solvents depart and leave a grease that doesn't evaporate.
Pretty sure the Liquid Wrench "brand", has an appropriate lubricant in their range. But their namesake product (which is "penetrating oil") is not what you want for long term. It might last a few months, by softening the existing grease and flowing some of the old grease back into the bearing. Which certainly is better than nothing, but you did ask about alternatives to "Tri-Flow" which is a real lubricant.
Can you describe better what you squirted in there? The "full" product name?
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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jeffsab
Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2011
Posts: 93
Location: Portland, OR
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Ahwahnee
Samba Member
Joined: June 05, 2010
Posts: 9810
Location: Mt Lemmon, AZ
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| Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 4:25 pm Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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I used Fluid Film as it is creepy & clingy (like an ugly prom date).
It is also useful as a rust preventative.
Smells like wet sheep (that prom date again?). |
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jimf909
Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2014
Posts: 7474
Location: WA/ID
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2017 12:38 am Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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I did this maintenance today. Fairly easy. The fan is more distant than I imagined. The diagram on page 2 or 3 is pretty accurate. Use the least smelly lub that you have. I joined three tubes, the first was with duct tape but then heat shrink tubing jumped into my brain and I used that. Two holes are better than one: lube in one, look through the other while shining a headlamp through the top of the airbox.
My fan had only started to squeak once every five days or so so I hope this works for awhile.
Thanks to all who provided excellent advice. And extra special thanks to a Karl for his fridge, propex and finally, his port. There should be a hall of fame here for people like him.
_________________
- Jim
| Abscate wrote: |
Do not get killed, do not kill others.
|
Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.
Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro). |
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86scotty
Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2013
Posts: 223
Location: Tennessee
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2017 8:12 am Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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I'm new around here but certainly not new to colorful forums and their colorful characters.
I must say this is may be the best thread ever, over 7 years old and going strong addressing a real manufacturing defect from every angle.
I stumbled across it yesterday only after pulling my dash for replacement seeing as it looks a little like the floor of Death Valley.
It's the wide range of characters here that make this a rich thread and a rich forum, and I don't just mean Terry Kay.
I'll be doing this if my blower noise ever comes back again but I went ahead and pulled mine apart yesterday and lubed it the old fashioned way. There are already plenty of holes in my Westy so what's one more? Had I not pulled my dash I wouldn't have found the 4 broken wires on the grounding block just under the A-pillar. Strange how everything was working? Also, I couldn't have cleaned up the large mouse nest under there that I've been breathing. For that reason alone, given the common mouse's love of Vanagons, I recommend a dash pull for everyone who buys a Westy with an unknown history. I'm much more disturbed by the condition of the wiring behind the dash than any blower motor issue. |
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jalan
Samba Member
Joined: December 11, 2009
Posts: 75
Location: Underwood, Washington
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 11:30 am Post subject: Re: Mullendore Port |
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I have done this now to three vanagons. Thanks Karl for the original tip.
I found it works best if the holes are drilled off to the right and as high as possible. That way you get a better angle on viewing the bearing and lighting it at the same time. I used a 3/4" hole saw and plugs to match. If your bearing is seized, this often will show up as a blown fuse or fried blower switch. You can sometimes free the seized bearing by turning the blower wheel after letting the PB Blaster do its work. I used a piece of stiff wire, 1/8" gas welding rod, with a bent end to pull and push on the hamster wheel until bearing broke free. Works great now.
If I had one of those handy little pocket lights with the long goose neck and a LED bulb I would hang it over the top of the housing from the front. You can also tape a small flashlight on top of the sheet metal just to the right of the holes.
The hole to the left, in the picture, was pretty useless.
Have only had one where the bearing on other end of the shaft was bad as well. It squeaked intermittently so I replaced that motor and core.
Pulling the dash? It's a great time to replace the master cylinders and service the pin on the clutch linkage.
The photo through the hole shows the end of the shaft bearing. Below the motor you can see a couple of the vanes in the blower wheel.
_________________
1989 Syncro Hardtop, 2.5 '07 Subaru
1991 Carat Hardtop
1995 High Top Eurovan Syncro |
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