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Hoody Samba Member
Joined: November 28, 2007 Posts: 1948
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Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 2:01 am Post subject: Orange peel?Some or wetsand? |
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I am attempting to build a museum quality bus for a day.It'sa78 Dakotata biege.I am leaning towards single stage.Should i have it wet sanded and buffed?Leave some orange peel?I am thinking glass smooth single stage.The man has told me that going that route I may as well go base clear,I disagree.Can you have gone the single stage route shed some light?Thanks for your help.Anyone with pics would be greatly appreciated |
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MODIFIER Samba Member
Joined: December 09, 2006 Posts: 1560 Location: Summerville SC
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:38 am Post subject: |
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A clearcoat is not required for a slick glossy paintjob.
If you are going for factory style paint, you need to remove trash and runs and any really heavy orange peel.
a museum finish is generally not considered a "show" finish and would be easily done by any competent painter,
If your bus is being done in a pro booth with a bake cycle, (this is the very best way) and the paint is nice and relativley clean, I would not buff it.
Buffing removes that glossy hard shell and will be harder to maintain than the baked surface.
granted, your paint job has been baked, but the cutting process cuts down to a slightly softer surface that will scratch easier and swirl with washings and chip easier. _________________ Happyasshell
USC USMC DAD OORAH!
ASE MASTER TECH BODY/PAINT and MECHANICAL
62 Beetle
63 Vert
64 Beetle
https://www.facebook.com/SmartFarmServices |
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66buggie Samba Member
Joined: October 25, 2008 Posts: 302 Location: wa.st
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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MODIFIER wrote: |
A clearcoat is not required for a slick glossy paintjob.
If you are going for factory style paint, you need to remove trash and runs and any really heavy orange peel.
a museum finish is generally not considered a "show" finish and would be easily done by any competent painter,
If your bus is being done in a pro booth with a bake cycle, (this is the very best way) and the paint is nice and relativley clean, I would not buff it.
Buffing removes that glossy hard shell and will be harder to maintain than the baked surface.
granted, your paint job has been baked, but the cutting process cuts down to a slightly softer surface that will scratch easier and swirl with washings and chip easier. |
where did u get that info..22 years of painting and never heard that before |
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DonnieDarko Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2008 Posts: 884 Location: Monroe, NC
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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I've never heard it either. Buffing (unless you're doing it with some insane gritted compound) barely removes any clear and only gets rid of fine scratches. I never heard of it "removing the hard shell from the clear." Hell, the "hard shell" is the clear
You could buff all day on an orange-peeled car and you wouldn't do much to it. WETSANDING can remove a good amount (and if you're not careful, remove completely) of the top coat of clear to a flat shiny surface.
I suppose you could say wetsanding removes the hard shiny finish, but it doesn't remove all of it unless you over sand. All you're doing it taking off the top coat to get rid of the orange peel and other imperfections. _________________ 1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle - Daily Driver/Rolling Project Beater - Stock w/ GT Style Exhaust
1972 Volkswagen Bus - Project
1970 Volkswagen Standard Beetle - Baja Project
I pick cheap and reliable. |
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MODIFIER Samba Member
Joined: December 09, 2006 Posts: 1560 Location: Summerville SC
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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66buggie wrote: |
MODIFIER wrote: |
A clearcoat is not required for a slick glossy paintjob.
If you are going for factory style paint, you need to remove trash and runs and any really heavy orange peel.
a museum finish is generally not considered a "show" finish and would be easily done by any competent painter,
If your bus is being done in a pro booth with a bake cycle, (this is the very best way) and the paint is nice and relativley clean, I would not buff it.
Buffing removes that glossy hard shell and will be harder to maintain than the baked surface.
granted, your paint job has been baked, but the cutting process cuts down to a slightly softer surface that will scratch easier and swirl with washings and chip easier. |
where did u get that info..22 years of painting and never heard that before |
I have had cars with a cut and polished finish and cars with a baked and unbuffed finish and the uncut paint is ALWAYS more durable.
Ck. with your paint rep. He can explain the reasons better than I can.
But I can say from experience that it is true.
27 years in collision repair here, so you know Im not some kid talking out my butt.
Im sorry, I didnt elaborate on the colorsanding. Its the colorsanding that removes the top layer, and after the polish the finish is weaker than before the colorsanding and buffing. _________________ Happyasshell
USC USMC DAD OORAH!
ASE MASTER TECH BODY/PAINT and MECHANICAL
62 Beetle
63 Vert
64 Beetle
https://www.facebook.com/SmartFarmServices |
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buguy Samba Member
Joined: November 17, 2003 Posts: 4915 Location: Port Orange, FL
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 7:43 pm Post subject: |
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So you think that the top layer is harder than the underlying ones? From the baking process? I have done and seen both, but never have had any testing to base any oppinion either way. I do however feel that if you want a really good looking finish, cut and buff is a must. |
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MODIFIER Samba Member
Joined: December 09, 2006 Posts: 1560 Location: Summerville SC
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Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:41 pm Post subject: |
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The surface of the baked finish is more durable before cutting and buffing.
I love a good cut and buff job, It makes a paintjob itno show quality if done correctly.
This was my last baked nonbuffed paintjob, loved this thing...
This one I buffed out.
another slick one from a few years ago.
I hate buffing Beetles,
I know these pics dont show much, but they are all I have on here.
I need to scan some of the good shit I have and get it posted up. _________________ Happyasshell
USC USMC DAD OORAH!
ASE MASTER TECH BODY/PAINT and MECHANICAL
62 Beetle
63 Vert
64 Beetle
https://www.facebook.com/SmartFarmServices |
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Hoody Samba Member
Joined: November 28, 2007 Posts: 1948
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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 2:19 am Post subject: |
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So back to the original question.Single stage?Can I have it color sanded and polished?Should I not have it touched once it comes out of the oven?My 76 FJ40 is base clear.My fear is the bus will look over restored with the base clear.Single stage done by a pro,leave it?Single stage sand and polish? |
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MODIFIER Samba Member
Joined: December 09, 2006 Posts: 1560 Location: Summerville SC
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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 7:33 am Post subject: |
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Hoody wrote: |
So back to the original question.Single stage?Can I have it color sanded and polished?Should I not have it touched once it comes out of the oven?My 76 FJ40 is base clear.My fear is the bus will look over restored with the base clear.Single stage done by a pro,leave it?Single stage sand and polish? |
Sorry for the hijack.
Single stage if a solid color and base clear if metallic.
Let the paintjob quality decide if you buff or not. _________________ Happyasshell
USC USMC DAD OORAH!
ASE MASTER TECH BODY/PAINT and MECHANICAL
62 Beetle
63 Vert
64 Beetle
https://www.facebook.com/SmartFarmServices |
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buguy Samba Member
Joined: November 17, 2003 Posts: 4915 Location: Port Orange, FL
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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:41 pm Post subject: |
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Yes you can have it color sanded and buffed. I think the only ones to really look over restored are the ones painted black that are just slick like it is water pouring over them. |
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