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Sliding door hinge repair rebuild
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ajdenette
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Joined: February 15, 2009
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Location: Hope Valley RI
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 2:00 pm    Post subject: Sliding door hinge repair rebuild Reply with quote

So I had 2 Sliding door hinges in pretty poor shape one had one top bearing left in tact the other only had the inner races left. I started by removing the remainders of the bearings. I used 1/4Ē snap rings and PBB77R-4 at the hard ware store they were listed as being for power tools Makita and the like.
For those who donít have lots of random parts lying around and a worn out hinge on there slider first remove the inside panel of the slider. Next with the door pretty much closed remove the bolt on the inside of the door. The bolts are 13mm and easy to get at with a ratchet and an extension.
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Next open the door and support it working in my carport I used some tires when I work on the sliding door I use my floor jack under the sill this also allows for adjustment of the door for final assembly.
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Next remove the last 2 screws holding the hinge to the door.
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Finally slide the hinge back out of the door then rotate down to get the two bearings out and lift up to get the roller off the track.
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Here is a comparison of a rebuilt hinge to the hinge I removed from the van
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Here is a picture showing the parts I used, the disassembled hinge and roller, and the completely assembled hinge. The newer hinge had a removable bearing where the older hinge uses the roller where the outer race is the roller making it un re build able I could not find a replacement bearing for the roller so I reused the one I had as it looked like it was brand new. I also go new snap rings to retain the bearings.
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The snap rings holding the bearings on must be removed first when I removed them the deformed so I decided to replace them instead of trying to reuse them
This bearing race or in the second hinge my one good bearing came off easily with a chisel on the bottom hammering it off.
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The second bearing was a lot harder both were just the inner race and the lower bearing race was the same diameter so I used a cold chisel to create a gap to get a good seat for the chisel to drive the race off
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After the races were removed I cleaned up the pieces and removed the roller.
First you remove the 10mm nut holding the bearing on.
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Next a drift pin was used to remove the roller with the bearing attached.
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At this point I found the difference on the second roller.
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An 8mm socket fits over the shafts and applies the force nicely against the inner races I pried the bearing out of the roller the first time and mused up the seal a little but would use a socket if I were to do it again. It gets assembled so the snap ring is on the inside making it hard to tell which is which without removing them.
To get the bearing started into the roller after I had it out I used 2 blocks of wood. (You want them to be parallel to drive the bearing in straight)
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Next I used a 13mm socket to seat the bearing so the snap ring could be installed.
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Next I put the bearings back on using the 8mm socket.
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This is done to both top bearings.
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Make sure to seat both bearings so that the snap ring grove is visible so the snap rings can be installed.
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My snap ring pliers didnít fit in the holes for the small snap rings so I ended up using my fingers went well for all but 1 of them.

After this the 8mm socket was used to press the bearing back onto the hinge.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

After the bearing is seated the 10mm nut and the lock washer are replaced and the assembly is finished.
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I plan on greasing it with wheel bearing grease for reinstall as thatís what seemed to be on them from the factory that kept the roller working so well and in such good condition all these years later.

Finally it is time to reinstall the hinge. I got some grease and couldnít find any latex gloves so I used some sandwich bags.
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Gave the bearings a liberal covering with grease
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And put the hinge back in getting the first bolt going is tricky especially as the tire I was using to support the door flexed this is where the jack would have been nice at not moving through the process doing the outer 2 bolts then the inner on finishing up with some adjusting to make sure the door closes smoothly.
http://s544.photobucket.com/albums/hh331/adenette/hinge%20repair/ the album with some more shots of the process.[/url]
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Saguache
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beauty job, any idea what size the barrings are? Rebuilding may be harder than replacement in my case.

Thanks for the great photos!
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Captain Pike
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is why I have 4 spares.
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ajdenette
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

circlip inner dimension 0.29 in. but started as 0.25 in.

New Bearing inner dimension 0.314 in and outer dimension 0.865 in.

Old Bearing inner dimension 0.312 in and outer dimension 0.848 in.

so it looks like the inner race is about 3/16 in. and the outer race is probably 7/8 i forget what the box of parts say at the hard ware store
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1985 2wd Westy with 2000 Subaru 2.2 current driver
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=685635
1986 Syncro Doka Project next in line
1990 Vanagon Syncro Base awaiting body work
Future project 1987 Vanagon Syncro GL
Parents 2 1974 sunbugs and now 87 Westy
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stevey88
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you very much for the step by step. I am about to remove my slider for a repaint.
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davideric9
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice Job. Seems like it may be easier and quicker to remove the slider and then remove/reinstall the hinge. As you may know it only takes removing two screws on the body roller track cover and then the door comes off without any other fasteners or tools. All told it takes less than a minute or two to either remove or install the slider door.
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bgwoods
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any idea on where to get a replacement for a '69 bay window bus?

I shut the door pretty hard a couple of days ago, and I ended up with a hanging door in my right hand and a pile of parts in my left hand.

It all kind of went back together in a Jerry-rigged manner, but some parts are hashed and it does NOT like to open easily.
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BillM
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are missing the plastic cap that goes on the top of the assembly.
I have a couple new spares if you want one for the cost of postage just
message me.
The cap
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The hinge with cap
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bgwoods
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks!

Just saw your reply.

Will address when at work in a.m.
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GoWestyYoungMan
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the excellent write-up...what timing!!
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GoWestyYoungMan
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the excellent write-up...what timing!!
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Vanagator
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my van (1986 camper) there's a curved bumper/stop in the track where that double roller hinge slides. It softens the blow when the hinge turns the corner inward. Its shown here but out of stock...

http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_1950_615/sliding-door-bumperstop.html

Mine is shot and crumbled off, so now it just smashes into the curved metal frame with a nasty sound. Anyone know a fix for this or where to find/how to replace another?
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello, I needed the two bearings for the middle support mentioned above. I came across this thread in hopes of finding a local replacement bearing. No problem with the Vanagon vendors, but I had the door off and could have it fixed same day with the bearing. Using the above dimensions, I called our local bearing house.

They came up with SKF 608 2RSJEM Made in Italy. The fit was fine. The local bearing house was a little proud of them at $13.00 each, but the door is back on same day. Time is money. Hope this helps someone in a similar spot. The ABEC 5 mentioned above refers to the grade, not the actual part number needed to order them. mark
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