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Yet another aux battery install - PICS but not verbose
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kurt vonnagon
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trip battery's


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singler3360
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

iiigoiii wrote:


- i'd be concerned that the 5th battery, being dissimilar to the 4th, could cause one or more of the batteries to wear prematurely. the same concern was raised about the 4-bank back when it was first used. i wonder if it would be crazy to consider a second yandina between the 4 batteries and the 5th...?


VWBeta posted a nice diagram over on the 'Fridge Replacement Projects...' thread
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3...;start=300
with this same idea. Notice the 2nd Yandina wired between the first and second battery in his diagram. This might be the better way to go so that both battery banks in your case are managed properly. I didn't know this could be done and will one day add back the 44 A/hr Werker that I recently replaced with a Trojan 115 A/hr located in the small kitchen cabinet.
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iiigoiii
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

a few issues you might want to think about.

- the long run of wire to the 5th battery may not matter as much for performance, but you'll need to size the wire large enough or there may be a voltage drop (and hence a voltage difference when charged) between that battery and the others.

- if the main battery bank is wired to the fuse box, you wouldn't need to wire the 5th battery to the box also...but i'm not sure what the effects of having that 'circular' circuit would be.

- you'd need to consider fusing the run to the 5th battery, as it would be long and possibly exposed to damage even if done inside cabinets

- i'd be concerned that the 5th battery, being dissimilar to the 4th, could cause one or more of the batteries to wear prematurely. the same concern was raised about the 4-bank back when it was first used. i wonder if it would be crazy to consider a second yandina between the 4 batteries and the 5th...?
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markz2004
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems like this would be a good thread to add to: Very Happy

I am planning to add another battery to my house ‘bank’. Currently I’m using the 4-pack of UB12220s under the driver’s seat. My thought is simply to add another battery to the bank by running an additional wire from the bank to a 5th battery under the rear seat. Not exactly ideal, but seems like it will work. The additional battery will be a 55 ah Werker (same as a UB12550 - $135). This will give me a total of 143 ah.

For some background, my auxiliary set-up is wired like this:
1. Alternator with voltage regulator, wired to the starting battery as OE.
2. From the starting battery I have a Yandina to a 4-pack of UB12220 batteries under the driver’s seat.
3. The 4-pack is wired to the main terminals of my Blue Sea fuse box under the sink. Fuse box powers the Truck Fridge (AC/DC), 4 house lights, stereo, 1000W inverter, couple of 12v plugs.
4. Wired into the fuse box’s main terminals is my ProMite battery charger (single bank 5amp smart charger). The charger is connected to the exterior shore power hook-up – as is my TF. I’m basically using the main terminals on the fuse box as a connection point to the 4-pack.

In adding a 5th battery under the rear bench, I would wire it to the fuse box’s main terminals mostly for sake of ease.

Any comments appreciated.
- Having the all the house batteries “bank” separated by the 10’ of wire (8 or 10 gauge) make a noticeable difference in performance?
- Wiring to the main terminals could make it harder for the charger to sense the state of the battery?
- Is the run from the alternator/starting batter/yandia/4-pack/bench battery too long?

Thanks,
Mark
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Either will work.

In electrical jargon, a bus is just a place where a lot of things can be made common, in this case it would just be a place you could bring all the negative leads of your fused loads back to one location for grounding (the bus itself would in turn be connected to the vehicle chassis and thereby to the battery negative, or difrectly to the battery negative post).

But in vehicle wiring, the entire chassis of the vehicle acts as a negative or grounded bus, so any load circuit can be grounded by just connecting it to the metal of the vehicle chassis, without the need to bring the negative leads back to the battery.

So you can see why it wouldn't matter which fuse board you used.

Good luck.
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Mellow Mayo
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PDXWesty wrote:
I got mine on Ebay for $20. It looked something like this:

http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/productline/126

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servle.../0/0?N=377 710&Ne=0&Ntt=fuse block&Ntk=Primary Search&Ntx=mode matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=fuse block&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=295



I noticed Blue Sea sells a fuse block WITH a negative bus and WITHOUT a negative bus. Will either work for an aux battery hookup?
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singler3360
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Classicvibe wrote:
Hey SIngler, great post and thank you for the great pics. Could you talk a little about what your requirement were for this system? I mean, what were your needs, what were you out to accomplish? Once again, great work!


My requirements were to get the stereo and interior lights off the main battery, and install three more 12V sockets in the cabin area along with 2-3 more hardwired light fixtures.
I posted those install pics here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4609263#4609263
I have long-range plans to install a TruckFridge (or equivalent) and a Propex heater. I left space on the aux. fuse panel for those circuits, but I now know those applicances should not run off the Werker 44AH. So down the road a ways, I'm looking at adding a second aux. battery or replacing the Werker with a larger one and relocating. For now we're content to use a cooler behind passenger seat. Best of luck with your installs and be sure to post your own lessons learned/insights/pics. I'm glad my posts can be of help in getting started, if nothing else.
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Classicvibe
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey SIngler, great post and thank you for the great pics. Could you talk a little about what your requirement were for this system? I mean, what were your needs, what were you out to accomplish? Once again, great work!
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wenholzm
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just completed an installation of a second battery, and was very similar to the pictures and explanation of this original post, although where I live I could not find a Yandina 100, so I put in a 200 amp Solenoid which charges both batteries when the ignition key is "on". After reading more I am concerned that I might have problems. I have put a volt meter on this aux battery and driven around monitoring, it seems that I get to 13.0 - 13.1 V and does not go any higher. This summer I will be traveling and able to buy a Yandina, should I change the solenoid for a Yandina 100? The solenoid was only $15, so it is not that big a deal. I am more concerned about ptotecting my $170 gel battery.

BTW I also put two solenoids (same 200 amp) on the headlamps and wired direct to the battery, big boost in my night travel.

Best to all Mark
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Alaric.H
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just put this Yandina in a van.

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PDXWesty
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got mine on Ebay for $20. It looked something like this:

http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/productline/126

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servle.../0/0?N=377 710&Ne=0&Ntt=fuse block&Ntk=Primary Search&Ntx=mode matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=fuse block&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=295
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JeffRobenolt
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where did you get that aux fuse panel? I haven't had any luck finding them local.
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iiigoiii
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Question Reply with quote

RC82 wrote:
When hooking up a battery charger, does it work if I were to hook up the positive lead to the circuit panel with a fuse and ground the negative lead to the frame?


i can think of only two considerations of off the top of my head on this.

first, there's a relatively small difference in voltage between a fully charged battery and a somewhat discharged one. if the charging path goes through several connectors and a fuse on the panel side, several ground wires and corroded connections on the ground side, not to mention a length of wire, the resistance in all those will knock down the charging voltage somewhat, and you won't get a full charge in the battery.

second, i suppose you could blow a fuse between the charger and the battery if the battery is discharged enough and the charger is strong enough, although most chargers put out relatively few amps.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hiram6 wrote:

With the charger connected to my aux battery directly, the way mine works is this:

(1) the charger will charge my aux battery first, until it reaches a certain charge level, I think 13 volts, but I could be wrong
(2) the combiner then clicks to the combined setting and the charger begins having a charging effect on the starting battery, probably limited by wire gauge running over to the starting battery, I don't remember what gauge I used. This thread is making me consider investigating an upgrade.
(3) when driving, of course the combiner works the other way, with the starting battery getting priority, the the aux battery.


Good explanation. Is the SurePower bi-directional like the Yandina also? Just curious.
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hiram6
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have both positive and negative connections from my battery charger going directly to my aux battery posts. I use a "battery combiner" which, as I understand it, is basically what the Yandina is.

I wired my system up based on the instructions that came with my battery combiner, which I purchased from West Marine, but is made by...guess who...Yandina! It's a more heavy-duty version than what is used by the OP, but it was on a close-out table at WM and I paid less than $50.

With the charger connected to my aux battery directly, the way mine works is this:

(1) the charger will charge my aux battery first, until it reaches a certain charge level, I think 13 volts, but I could be wrong
(2) the combiner then clicks to the combined setting and the charger begins having a charging effect on the starting battery, probably limited by wire gauge running over to the starting battery, I don't remember what gauge I used. This thread is making me consider investigating an upgrade.
(3) when driving, of course the combiner works the other way, with the starting battery getting priority, the the aux battery.


I also wired in a control switch so I can force it to a setting. A three position toggle switch lets me choose combined, separated, or automatic operation.
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singler3360
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 10:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Question Reply with quote

RC82 wrote:
When hooking up a battery charger, does it work if I were to hook up the positive lead to the circuit panel with a fuse and ground the negative lead to the frame?


Since none of the gurus have picked up on this yet, I'll respond. I've seen elsewhere in the Samba that it is better to run the positive lead from the charger directly to the battery rather than thru the aux. fuse panel. At least that is how most schematics have it. Why exactly I don't know. Gurus?
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RC82
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:42 pm    Post subject: Question Reply with quote

When hooking up a battery charger, does it work if I were to hook up the positive lead to the circuit panel with a fuse and ground the negative lead to the frame?
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Julian13
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hasa any of the small minority, that are Eurovan drivers, put an aux system in the rear cuddy under the MV seat? I am thinking of doing so but wonder if the space is sufficient.

If not where else is a good location?
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singler3360
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

climberjohn wrote:
Singler,

Thanks for this post. It looks like you did a nice job. My aux battery wiring has turned into quite the spaghetti pile, and your post gave me some ideas to clean it up.

Thanks!
-CJ


Excellent. Glad it could be of some help. I've learned from your posts elsewhere as well. This Samba forum works pretty well!

I am interested why I ended up with more wires (or conduit) running into the kitchen cabinet near the stock fuse panel than other pics I've seen. If memory serves, I think I've seen as little as one conduit in other install pics; I have three.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I were to do this over again, I believe I would use 6ga. from the starter battery to a fast-blow ClassT fuse as Tencentlife recommends, then from this inline fuse run 8ga. to the Yandina (as an email I received from Yandina suggests for longer runs). The 6ga. wires between the aux. battery and the aux. fuse panel may not be overkill, considering the potential overall pull of devices on each circuit simultaneously. Because of the 12v receptacles, I cannot guarantee the types of devices plugged in at once. At any rate, running 6ga. wire between the two battery boxes was a PITA; 8 ga. would have been much easier I think. I hope these observations accomplish two things: 1. check my own thinking and installation, 2. help someone spec out their own install in the future.
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