Porsche Powered Mid-Engine Double Cab Build

[70 140]

Nice work guys.

I assume you will run it with the rear seat in place, otherwise it would seem like it would be deafening. So, when the rear seat is back in place, where will that engine get all of its cooling air from?

[67dubcab]

Hello,thanks for the kind words.

Yes it will get a seat, custom built with foam top and aluminum firewall on engine side.
I also will soundproof with foam and lead sandwich shielding left over from my boat outfitting days.

The engine air will come from the stock vents with the dividers modified to close off the fuel cell but open to the under seat area.
I already have been thinking of air intakes (think old fighter aircraft scoops not 70's empi plastic style)
I will monitor the engine requirements when its running.
Gumba has a 68 double cab with a 3.2 installed in the back which has the same vents as my 67 and says it runs a little hot, but cooled it down with a fan assisted secondary cooler.
My truck will get a secondary cooler fabbed into the front bumper.

[70 140]

Sounds likes its well thought out. I look forward to the rest of the build.

[LeviMan2001]

[Twisted Minis]

I keep trying to talk him into something like this. These are off an old boat apparently.

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If you can find it cheaper, I can fix it.

[dubtype1]

[Twisted Minis]

I didn't build that. Wish I did. It's just a build up that I have been following for years.
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If you can find it cheaper, I can fix it.

[v.a.s.cleaning]

love it

[RennyRB]

I was about to suggest "Dusty Conditions" air scoops emptying out under the seat, but then I realized you have a late model DC with the large rear window...

Oops on my part, but here goes a picture, anyway:

Of course, there is always the "other" dusty conditions option, with a second roof skin sending air taken in from the "eyebrow", but that's a less elegant solution.. The stock air vents will give a nice sleeper look.
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1967 Squareback

[DogN8tor]

Twisted:

Your welds have very little spatter and great penetration. This means one having ideal heat control in the process.
I realize a lot of it also comes from daily work e.g. skill.
What kind of welder set-up do you use to get that flat / clean look?
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I went down 'The Road Less Traveled' ... somehow I arrived here.

[Twisted Minis]

We talked a little bit today about making something from scratch out of aluminum, that could be opened and closed at will (an actuator would be nice, but ads weight, cable operated maybe). Also thought about the cowl vents from old 50s pick up trucks. There are a lot of things that could be done in this area really. I'm sure we will figure out something cool when we get there. I know a guy with a power hammer that can cut louvers. If he could make more that look like the stock pieces that would be neat too.

[Twisted Minis]

Here are some more in progress cage pictures. The B and C pillar hoops where built to match the shape of the headliner, so ti has some rolled tubing in there. In the bottom left of the first picture you can see where the floor was tunneled for the torque tube (I never took pics, maybe Stephen can, it looks cool).

Here are some of the bell crank pieces in stages, tacked together then fully welded. The through tube and bushing tube are 4130 normalized tubing, turned on the lathe to be square and accurate in size. The bushing itself is graphite impregnated oilite.

And some more mounted shots.

This side shown with the axle in place. It looks closer than it is, but everything fits pretty snug.

These are the aluminum spacers I machined to offset the rod end. This was to help push the coil over as far towards the outside of the vehicle as possible, for space reasons mostly, but you could call it corner weight.

And here is one of the internal baffles I put in the tank while I had the bottom off. It doesn't seal at the top or the bottom so that it will still fill up all the way, just reduces sloshing of large volumes at once.

_________________
If you can find it cheaper, I can fix it.

[gostros]

amazing work. I will def. keep following this build.

[volksfahrer.nl]

Bizare build! Thanks for sharing it.

One question though:
The connecting rod from the trailingarm to the lever that moves the coil-over looks so thin.
Did you do any calculations on it? What material is it?

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www.volksfahrer.nl
www.theundutchables.nl

66 panel

[Twisted Minis]

Okay I am going to get a little bit technical here. The material is 6061-T651 aluminum. It is a heat treated aluminum alloy that is stress relieved and artificially aged (the hold it at 320° for 18 hours). It boasts a Rockwell B hardness of 60. It's ultimate tensile strength is 45,000 PSI, and it's tensile yield strength is 40,000 PSI. In KSI the tensile strength is measured at over 91,000. All of these specs are based on 1/2" OD solid bar. What is on the truck is 1" solid, only tapped 2" deep on each side of a 16" bar. The aluminum bar is actually stronger than the heat treated 4130 rod ends on either side. The way that it is loaded is in compression, and it is very strong in this application. People use this stuff in much more demanding situations all the time without any issues.

I will give you an example. This truck is using plain 6061 link bars, 1.5" OD solid. These link bars will see a load from every angle imaginable in this type of truck. And he has been running the same bars for years now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acwkjS3v0Z0
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If you can find it cheaper, I can fix it.

[volksfahrer.nl]

Ok! I'm convinced
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www.volksfahrer.nl
www.theundutchables.nl

66 panel

[the-jerm]

I was lost when you said, "Okay I am going to get a little bit technical here."

This is a cool build and you guys are doing one hell of a job. I can't wait to see this done.

[Twisted Minis]

[the-jerm]

It was a joke . . . sort of

Like I said before, you do great work. I wish I had a fraction of your skill and knowledge.

[Twisted Minis]

I wasn't sure what you meant, the internets you know. I thought you where saying that wasn't really technical.
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If you can find it cheaper, I can fix it.