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Illustrated AFM Adjustment Procedure
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Amskeptic
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:06 am    Post subject: Illustrated AFM Adjustment Procedure Reply with quote

Please feel free to suggest improvements to the flow of information, corrections to the information itself, or ask for clarification.
Colin

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?...;highlight
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:01 am    Post subject: Re: Illustrated AFM Adjustment Procedure Reply with quote

Amskeptic wrote:
Please feel free to suggest improvements to the flow of information, corrections to the information itself, or ask for clarification.
Colin

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?...;highlight




Very nicely done! Your level of detail describes exactly what I worry about for most newbys.....the fact that this adjustment is simple....but that the mechanism while not being complex in construction...is complicated in operation.

I know you advocate adjustment at some point of the AFM......for most engines. To me...this is just like the adjustment of the MPS in D-jet.

If any L-jet engine has done considerable miles since its factory build...and unless you used all exact factory parts from factory bins in any rebuild....and unless you are running the same tires and fuel.......its most probable that the input/output parameters for your system are no longer what they were when the AFM was calibrated.

I have rarely found and D-jet system that did not require adjustments to the MPS for BEST running.....and not just adequate running. I have found L-jet to be the same. I like how you noted to mark your start positions....three times at the end of the tutorial.
I also advocate that the AFM or MPS adjustments are the last thing you should do.....only because most people do not do enough dilgence in setting all other parameters correct first. Nice! Ray
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fusername
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

very nice. Two things, one is that there is a spray available at Rat, er Radio Shack for the wiper board. It is a cleaner/lubricant. the lubricant is the important part. many people, including myself, decide cleaning that board is a good idea (tm) only to later be informed that it was lubricated at the factory and is now being wotn down extreemly quickly by the wiper arm.
the other is the source of much debate, however my source TESTED and designed such wipers for a living, so I belive him. Rolling the arm as you described it is a very bad idea (tm). The reason for this is that the pressure set from the factory of the wiper arm on the track is very specific. the reason for this is that the difference beteeen .5 lbs of preload applied (250psi at the track) and 2 lbs applied (1000psi at the track)! The contact area is so small between the wiper and the track that small differences in load will make enourmous pressure differences at tiny little tip of that arm. For this reason he strongly reccomends NOT to touch the wiper arm, and instead to loosen the screws holding the board in place, then simply shift the board and tightne them up again. If they are loctited in place a little heat applied to thier backside should help free them.

I'm sure this is an old debate, but that is the feedback of a professional, not an armchair engineer. Its your car, fix it how you like, just be aware of all the information available.

however the write up is excellent, really spells all the important points out and clearly a lot of thought and effort went into it. Thank you for providing this resource!
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Amskeptic
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fusername wrote:
Two things,

there is a cleaner/lubricant spray available at Radio Shack for the wiper board.

The pressure set from the factory of the wiper arm on the track is very specific. The contact area is so small between the wiper and the track that small differences in load will make enourmous pressure differences at tiny little tip of that arm.
For this reason he strongly recommends NOT to touch the wiper arm, and instead to loosen the screws holding the board in place, then simply shift the board and tighten them up again.


A serious well-explained caveat that makes perfect sense . . .
I'd like to add a synopsis of your observation to the write-up.
And I will see about weighing the contact pressure. I'll check that the distance of the contacts below the horizontal plane of the plastic body is held to the same degree after an adjustment, if I get no satisfaction with the board shift which certainly seems like the more elegant solution.
Colin
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