70 Beetle Hood Release

Frodge · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:58 pm Post subject: 70 Beetle Hood Release

Hello. I had trouble opening my hood this morning and want to know what I can do to fix it? It opens once out of every 25 times I try to pull the lever. I sprayed the latching mechanism on the hood and worked the mechanism back and forth. I reclosed the hood and it would not open again. You can hear the hood release clicking when I pull on the lever, but it is not staying open I guess. I have the original paper glove box. The Cable is in one piece and looks at the atachment points to be in good condition on both ends. What do I need to fix this? and where can I get it. Is it the cable, the cable routings? the pull? I'm not sure what to look for here.
Also, what is the procedure for replacing all of these parts, I have the Bentley, and it does not really specify. Looking to get this done soon.

Frodge · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 3:18 pm Post subject:

Anyone know what this problemo could be-o?

ANSAracingb · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 3:24 pm Post subject:

Maybe the spring on the striker/pin doesn't have enough tension? It also can be adjusted back and forth, maybe that will help? There should be a nut on the top that requires a 13mm wrench. Play with that a little bit and maybe it's just an adjustment issue.

Frodge · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 5:08 pm Post subject:

I just went to look at the car again. The release lever seems stiff to push it down, I'm not sure what it should feel like, as this is my first bug. I rechecked everything and the cable ends are not fraying, or even look worn. I was able to verify that the lever was moving the latch. But it only opens every 25th or 30th time. What does the tension on the striker do?

Cusser · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 5:30 pm Post subject:

I'm assuming here that your latch is still firmly attached to your glove box, that the glove box side is not torn/broken...

The cable is adjustable, held at the latch by a screw. Try having a helper hold the release lever down ALL the way as you try to open it, pushing down on the hood latch button, and jiggling if you have too.

Once it's open, have helper pull down the latch, release, repeat, etc, as you watch the latch to see if it's opening like it should. It might need some WD-40 cleaning, etc., to get it going right. This is when you may need to loosen the adjusting screw (there's an access hole), pull the cable through A LITTLE, then re-tighten it.

Also, the "striker" distance (on the underside of the hood) is also adjustable. Good luck.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

Frodge · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:06 pm Post subject:

Thanks guys.

The both of you mention that the striker is adjustable.
My glove box is in good shape, the latch is firmly attached, and I made sure the band in the trunk is screwed down, holding the box in. I sprayed some lubricant on the latch and striker. When I push on the actual latch mechanism where the cable is attached it seems rather smooth moving, with some spring tension to it. When I pull from the inner release lever, it seems stiffer, almost binding to a degree. Should it be a very smooth action on that lever?
Do you adjust the cable, or the striker first? I know about that screw that holds the cable in. I am assuming you put hte inside release lever in the closed position, loosen the screw and pull the cable through with a pair of needle nose pliers and tighten the screw? Like a bicycle brake or derailer cable? How do you go about adjusting the striker? I did in fact get the hood back open and it will stay taht way until I can figure it out. I can hear the mechanicm unlatching when I pull the lever, its just that I cannot open it when I run to the front of the car. It's like a Laurel and Hardy skit. Without Hardy.One other thing, should the inner cable lever move back upwards after you unlatch the trunk? Mine stays down, and I have to manually push it back up.

Cusser · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:40 pm Post subject:

A properly-operating system should have the hood pop "upwards" maybe 1/2 inch when you pull the lever all the way down, you should be abe to see it move. You should also be able to hear it pop up if it's quiet where you are. The lever most likely will not return to its "up" position until you move it.

Yes, you adjust it like you said, like a bicycle cable. I think you need a helper to hold the lever down while you observe if the latch is moving enough to release the striker; if not, I'd adjust the cable tighter a little first. Adjust it too tight and it won't latch closed (so at least you can open it if necessary). I think this needs to be done first, to me it sounds like your striker is OK because it does latch, and it does work sometimes.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

Frodge · Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:44 pm Post subject:

My hood is not popping up, I can tell you that. I will go ahead and reclean it tomorrow. Then I will adjust the cable tension. I hope this is the cause. I will report back! Smile

Frodge · Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:26 am Post subject:

I am going to go and attempt to adjust the cable. How do I know which way to adjust the hood catch/rod etc if it needs to be? Longer or shorter?

Frodge · Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:38 am Post subject:

The adjustment to the cable (wire) did the trick. The only problem is that I cannot rebend the wire close enough to the attachment point where it screws in. It was originally bent around the screw that holds it down and run underneath. With the angle of that, it is impossible for me to take the old bend out and rebend it around the screw holder in fear of braking the latch mehcanism.

Frodge · Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 3:00 pm Post subject:

How important is it to have the cable wrapped totally around the screw carrier? When I try to rebend the the wire (it is already bent) I am having some trouble, because I feel as I bend, it may brake the latch.

Frodge · Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 4:24 pm Post subject:

Callin Cusser or Darby....

Cusser · Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 5:31 pm Post subject:

The Cuss is here !!! As long as the screw is tight, there should not be a need to duplicate the original bend, do what you can. Of course, if that cable slips out someday, then you're cutting the hood handle to gain access.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

Frodge · Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 5:34 pm Post subject:

I guess Ill go try and bend it. The problem is there is an original bend and it seems very diificult to rebend further up as the latch mechanism is bending with it as I bend.The original bend is still there, so it would be impossible to totally slip out. IT is a couple mm shorter at this point. I just dont want to bust the latch. It twists an awful lot when I try to bend it with the needle nose pliers.
P.S. How are you guys bending the wire after the adjustment without Fubaring the latch? That wire is pretty damned stiff. I thought it would be more like a bike cable, but it is more like a bailing wire.

Cusser · Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 7:10 pm Post subject:

Frodge · Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 7:56 pm Post subject:

Frodge · Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 6:00 am Post subject:

The adjustment is working just fine, although the lever is stiffer than any newer car I have ever owned. Should I unbend the original bend and then try to rebend it? Maybe try to angle some needle nose pliers in there.

Mrhat · Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 6:56 am Post subject:

tuff piece of wire , it can be bent but if the screw is holding why worry about it. Did you get your choke working on the 30 PICT 3? Just curious

Frodge · Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 7:11 am Post subject:

No, still having trouble with the carb. Snowing bad here> can't tackle thattoday. Thanks for asking Hat.

millerje78 · Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 7:38 am Post subject:

I made a modification to my 73 that most people would think ridiculous to avoid the problem you are having. When I got my 73 the glove box was coming apart and the latch mechanism was so loose I could barely pop the hood. Once I got the hood up, I could see that the cable housing that once existed was gone and the whole convoluted wire path was jerry-rigged to open the hood. This didn't work for me, so I shortened the path by great lenghts and took all of the bend out of it.

From the release mechanism, I went straight out the spare tire well with a choke cable in one straight shot, making the cable about 18 inches long. works great.
_________________
always seeking a better way
my 73 standard project

do your research, consult with experts, and buy quality parts. you won't be sorry


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