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72 - 79 differences
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regis101
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:02 pm    Post subject: 72 - 79 differences Reply with quote

I tried the search. Maybe I didn't word my query properly. I did read a few threads, though.

I'm on the prowl for a 73-75 Bus. I can swap over the drivetrain from our 78 if needed to make a driver out of it so I can garage the 78 for some much needed love. Planned on dropping it anyway for seals and whatnot.

IIRC, there are some chassis or mount differences in the 72 that will not allow the 78's drivetrain to be swapped? I think there was a thread about this. If not here then somewhere else?

Thanks,
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VDubTech
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drivetrain will swap between any 72-79 Bus just fine.
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regis101
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool. Thanks. I've been browsing around on the Type2 and Ratwell's site(s)
also.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VDubTech wrote:
Drivetrain will swap between any 72-79 Bus just fine.


With the '72 One Year Only articulated rear gearshift rod, are there any dimensional issues, Vdubtech?
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regis101
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amskeptic wrote:


With the '72 One Year Only articulated rear gearshift rod, are there any dimensional issues


Maybe this is what I was trying to think of. I'll see if BusBoys has an exploded view or part numbers or something.

As for my deal, I'd feel more comfy with a 73-75 just to avoid any one year only items.
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regis101
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More subtleties than I would've thought. Copied from Bus Boys. Item K may be an issue.

Perhaps the frame is similar enough that one would be able to make things work if using a 72 Bus with the later drive train.. Nothing is usually a straight swap.

A. 141-711-141D Shift Knob, Black $4.80

B. 111-711-115A Shifter Boot, Black $5.70

C. 211-798-121 Shifter Assembly, New (Approximately 2 inches shorter than the original) $29.00

D. 211-711-149 Shifter Stop Plate $3.65

E. 211-711-197 Front Shift Rod Bushing, 1968 to 1973 (Only Available in Kit 211-711-211 $16.30)

F. 211-711-182 Front Shift Rod Bushing, 1974 to 1979 $12.70

G. 211-711-155EU Front Shift Rod, Used, 1968 to 1972 (To Chassis #212 2300 000) CALL

G. 211-711-155GU Front Shift Rod, Used, 1973 (Chassis #213 2000 001 to 213 2300 000) CALL

G. 211-711-155FU Front Shift Rod, Used, 1974 to 1975 (Chassis #214 2000 001 to 215 2300 000) CALL

G. 211-711-155HU Front Shift Rod, Used, 1976 to 1979 (From Chassis #216 2000 001) CALL

H. 211-711-169A Front Shift Rod Coupler $12.50

J. 211-711-189A Coupler Screw $1.85

K. 211-711-171DU Rear Shift Rod, Used, 1968 to 1972 (To Chassis #212 2300 000) CALL

K. 211-711-171LU Rear Shift Rod, Used, 1973 to 1979 (From Chassis #213 2000 001) CALL

L. 211-711-185B Bushing, Front of Rear Shift Rod (Only Available in Kit 211-711-211 $16.30)

M. 211-711-179 Bushing, Rear of Rear Shift Rod, 1968 to 1977 (To Chassis #217 2053 838) (Only Available in Kit 211-711-211 $16.30)

M. 211-711-185B Bushing, Rear of Rear Shift Rod, 1977 to 1979 (From Chassis #217 2053 839) (Only Available in Kit 211-711-211 $16.30)

N. 211-711-183B Rear Shift Rod Boot $7.50

P. 311-798-211 Rear Shift Rod Coupler, $15.40

P. 311-798-211 HD Rear Shift Rod Coupler, Heavy Duty Urethane $10.30

R. 211-711-189A Coupler Screw $1.60

- 211-711-211 Complete Shift Rod Bushing Kit, 1968 to 1979 $16.30

NOTE: Complete Shift Rod Bushing Kit includes shift rod bushings only. Boots, couplers and other hardware are not included.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the shift rod/nosecone length changed a bit in 75, the 72 cutoff is for the style of bushing at the front, 68-72 uses the pin on the body, 73+ uses the big tubular one on the shift rod.
None of it's going to be impossible to work around though.
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regis101
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well at least I feel calm that the 78 drive train will at least fit a 72. Making the shift rods work would be minor.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

regis101 wrote:
...Making the shift rods work would be minor.


Famous last words... Smile
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regis101
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aw man. Trying to be optimistic here. Actually the 72 Bus doesn't turn me on. I've found a couple of 75's in my area. Price(s) are right.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^The 72 doesnt turn me on^^^. My 72 was a hard-on waiting to happen.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr. Loaf wrote:
^^^The 72 doesnt turn me on^^^. My 72 was a hard-on waiting to happen.


X2 Laughing
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regis101
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I googled 74 Bus transaxle and it led to an old TS thread. This is copied from that thread

Facts:

- the 002 trans was used up until 1975
- the 091 was used from 76-79 and had a different bellhousing
- the 72-73 transmission had a 210mm clutch
- the 74-75 had a 215mm clutch
- the 76-79 had a 228mm clutch
- the starter has to match the bellhousing.
- the 210mm and 215mm flywheels fit all 72-79 bellhousings
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 091 is about 1/2" longer than the earlier transaxle and this length must be taken into account. Using the shift rod off the later bus with an 091 will make that part easy, but the transmission will still interfere with the flange on the cross member in front of the nose cone. A little cutting or bending will take care of this.
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regis101
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the clarification. Item K from the Bus Boys link shows the rear shift rod as fitting the 73-79. So that's a relief.

Maybe there was a frame change when the 091's were installed.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

regis101 wrote:
Thanks for the clarification. Item K from the Bus Boys link shows the rear shift rod as fitting the 73-79. So that's a relief.

Maybe there was a frame change when the 091's were installed.
OK guys, I just put a 2 liter engine in my 75, seems as though the clutch cable is too long now, even with 1 1/2 inches of lug nut spacers between the wing nut and throwout bearing lever. Any suggestions? clutch pedal goes right to the floor with 2 fingers, and tough to get into gear,and NO free play after any adjustments to wing nut location, and Getting real frustrated!! HELP Mr Wizard!!
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
The 091 is about 1/2" longer than the earlier transaxle and this length must be taken into account. Using the shift rod off the later bus with an 091 will make that part easy, but the transmission will still interfere with the flange on the cross member in front of the nose cone. A little cutting or bending will take care of this.


When I put the 091 in my '73 with its original 002 bell housing, there were no issues at all with the shift rod or nose cone mount. I think all dimensional issues occur at the bell housing. The earlier 210 and 215 pressure plates inserted into the flywheel. The 228 fitted only to the outside of the flywheel, therefore, the flywheel/pressure plate dimensions increased by 1/4" or so. With this in mind, the revised 091 bell housing has the cross shaft axis slightly further towards the front of the car. With this in mind, the clutch cable needs to be slightly shorter than the earlier ones.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I put a 091 in my '74 I had to bend up the cross member Wildthings mentions.

The 1/2" difference also put my shifter at an odd angle so I re drilled the hole for the grub screw where the front shift rod connects to the rear shift rod to get it close to the normal position. I now use a '68-'71 clutch cable as well.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

alyachtman wrote:
OK guys, I just put a 2 liter engine in my 75, seems as though the clutch cable is too long now, even with 1 1/2 inches of lug nut spacers between the wing nut and throwout bearing lever.


You shouldn't put anything between the wing nut and the throwout bearing lever (arm). The wing nut is designed to pivot in the arm. With no pivoting action the cable will break in short time. Use a '68-'71 clutch cable.
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