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mikedo___
Samba Member
Joined: March 02, 2022
Posts: 10
Location: Seattle, WA
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 Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2024 4:26 pm Post subject: SOS: Lost all electrical after GW Isolator removal |
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Here's what happened:
I am replacing the 50A house electrical system that included an AC-DC (shore power) and a battery isolator (the GW one) with a more robust system.
I disconnected the starter battery negative and then proceeded to remove the 2nd battery setup, and also the radio because it barely worked. The house setup has been removed from the spare battery box, which now just contains the capped positive that is run to the starter battery, and the capped power wire that runs to B11 and B12 mentioned here https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=195&v=JRm1eUSJcnU&feature=youtu.be, and two duplex wires that I can't figure out (the previous owner said they were from a prior aux battery setup). And the reconnected fridge relay is still in there too.
I have NOT yet installed the new system, but when i reconnect the starter ground, absolutely nothing works. No overhead lights, nothing on the dash, no ignition, no hazard lights.
The battery measures 13v and I'm seeing 13v at the alternator so i know that battery is connected
I'm not sure any power is getting to the fuse box. I'm not totally sure i'm measuring the right places, but nothing seems to show any voltage.
What did i do to screw this up? I didn't pull the fuse panel as part of the removal (though i have now to make sure something someone hadn't fallen out).
It seems I'm overlooking something obvious....
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crazyvwvanman
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Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 9935
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2024 5:52 pm Post subject: Re: SOS: Lost all electrical after GW Isolator removal |
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There is a simple explanation.
The photos appear to show that someone hacked the stock wiring that used to connect the starter battery to the dash fuse panel.
In your photo the duplex pair with a red and a red/white originally connected right to the starter battery positive post clamp under the pass seat.
Someone pulled it from there and moved it over to under the driver seat.
Then they ran a new heavy red from the starter battery+ over to the driver side battery area.
They probably used one of the GW solenoid wiring posts as a junction point for all 3 wires.
When you removed the GW clunker you separated those 3 wires.
So, if so the red and red/white pair now needs to connect to the other heavy red wire next to it in your photo.
Test carefully!
Mark |
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mikedo___
Samba Member
Joined: March 02, 2022
Posts: 10
Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2024 7:00 pm Post subject: Re: SOS: Lost all electrical after GW Isolator removal |
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In your photo the duplex pair with a red and a red/white originally connected right to the starter battery positive post clamp under the pass seat.
Someone pulled it from there and moved it over to under the driver seat. |
Ahh you're, right! I went back and looked at my mid-install photo and it looks like the duplex was wired to either side of the isolator. The previous owner told me those didn't do anything ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
It started working when I connected the red duplex wire to the wire i have labeled "connected to battery +" in the original image. You can see they used to be connected to the same terminal in the photo.
So i'm still trying to understand....
The duplex wires were both connected to the positive of the driver's battery?
Should I also connect all three wires?
Does it make any sense why they were wired to either side of the isolator?
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9609
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2024 4:22 am Post subject: Re: SOS: Lost all electrical after GW Isolator removal |
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If you’re doing cleanup you might consider adding a fuse-distribution block. Maybe you can get some ideas from this thread. E-Code Square headlights, with relays for 400watts (how-to)
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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Crooked Designer
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Joined: March 22, 2018
Posts: 323
Location: Chicago, IL
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| Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2024 8:13 am Post subject: Re: SOS: Lost all electrical after GW Isolator removal |
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x2 on this.. While you're setting up a new aux system, might as well take one more step back and re-run a wire to the fuse box. The way my setup was when I got the van had the brake lights hooked up to the auxiliary battery because of how it sourced power from the fuse panel. Not a good idea. Sodo's set up is so clean and it will save you massive headaches in the future trying to track down why things are acting weird (like brake lights, or like nothing working at all!)
@Sodo.. how did you do that with your passenger swivel?!?!? *edit* nevermind.. I found a thread on it. I like the side tilt better as I'm sure I would use it more from standing in the passenger door vs. in the van. If I wanted it for accessable storage, I'd probably just get a drawer. Nice mod!
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'85 Westy full camper, Subaru 2.5L, 5 speed SubiGears + 5speedbus shifter kit
Last edited by Crooked Designer on Tue Feb 06, 2024 10:03 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Sodo
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9609
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2024 10:01 am Post subject: Re: SOS: Lost all electrical after GW Isolator removal |
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| Crooked Designer wrote: |
| @Sodo.. how did you do that with your passenger swivel?!?!? |
See this other thread: The Piano Swivel seat modification
Note that side-tip (as in the pic) only works for 1988-91.
And while it's great for standing outside the open passenger door, its kind of a difficult mod, requiring welding etc.
Intrepid Overland now sells a bolt-on kit that tips the seat forward.
If you are significantly upgrading vehicle electrics....
https://intrepidoverland.com/shop/seat-tilt-kit/ .....could be about the best $75 you can spend on your van.
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
Last edited by Sodo on Tue Feb 06, 2024 10:05 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Crooked Designer
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2018
Posts: 323
Location: Chicago, IL
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| Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2024 10:04 am Post subject: Re: SOS: Lost all electrical after GW Isolator removal |
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| Sodo wrote: |
| Crooked Designer wrote: |
| @Sodo.. how did you do that with your passenger swivel?!?!? |
See this other thread: The Piano Swivel seat modification
Note that side-tip (as in the pic) is WRONG for a hinged battery door (to 1987 ?).
Intrepid Overland sells a kit now, that tips the seat forward.
If you are significantly upgrading vehicle electrics....
https://intrepidoverland.com/shop/seat-tilt-kit/ .....could be about the best $75 you can spend on your van. |
Awesome thanks! (and sorry to hijack the OP thread for this brief intermission)
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'85 Westy full camper, Subaru 2.5L, 5 speed SubiGears + 5speedbus shifter kit |
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MarkWard
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Joined: February 09, 2005
Posts: 17153
Location: Retired South Florida
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| Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2024 10:32 am Post subject: Re: SOS: Lost all electrical after GW Isolator removal |
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Did you post up what you are intending to install? The idea is to isolate the starting battery from the accessory battery. You only need them combined for charging. A few acceptable methods to do this.
So, ideally you'd wire the things you need powered while stopped to the auxilary battery, stereo, fridge, sink pump etc. The starting battery would power everythng else.
So, now would be the time to really analyze what you want to do with the equipment you have. You might also want to address the rust I see before it goes through to the tire.
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crazyvwvanman
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Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 9935
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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mikedo___
Samba Member
Joined: March 02, 2022
Posts: 10
Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2024 6:39 pm Post subject: Re: SOS: Lost all electrical after GW Isolator removal |
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thanks all for your help!
Now that I understand the original wiring and how its been modified, i'll go back and make sure I don't need to increase the gauge connecting the starter battery and the DC => DC / Fuse panel.
It seems like "the van" and the 30A DC=>DC are all downstream of an 8AWG wire connected to the starter battery.... which doesn't seem good! |
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crazyvwvanman
Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 9935
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2024 6:59 pm Post subject: Re: SOS: Lost all electrical after GW Isolator removal |
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If you are installing the 200ah of battery in the rear closet it makes much more sense to me to put the DC-DC near there and power it directly from the alternator on a dedicated wire.
A 30 amp unit should draw less than 40 amps from the alternator.
Marine Grade #8 is rated for max 80 amps.
I'd add a 50-60 amp fuse in that wire not far from the alternator.
Mark |
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