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holey carburetor batman (67)
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:20 am    Post subject: holey carburetor batman (67) Reply with quote

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so I pulled my oil bath filter off for the first time, and it looks like someone wrenched the thing on so hard that the screw to tighten it to the carb actually punctured a hole into this thing.

can I just JB weld the thing up, or does it even matter that it's there so long as I put the screw right back where it was, or?

I have another carb for this motor, it's exactly the same model/etc, but im guessing it needs a rebuild (or why would it have been sitting in one of the old boxes of parts I got with this project) - should I be sending this in somewhere to get rebuilt to swap out?
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just JB Weld it. That is the housing for the electric choke. The worst case scenario would be gas getting in there. Could start a fire.

You can rebuild the carb yourself, but, take your time and research how to do it right. Rebuild kits are cheap.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might want to research putting a hose clamp on that fuel line while your in there.
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63beryl
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the throttle shaft needs rebushed, which most do, send it to someone with the tools/experience to fix it correctly. I just got my carb back from keifernet and he did an amazing job.
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MODIFIER
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know how that hole got there.
anybody else?
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MODIFIER wrote:
I know how that hole got there.
anybody else?


I always attributed it to the air cleaner being "loose" and vibrating and rubbing on that spot. I have seen it quite a few times.

And yes it's no big deal to just take the choke out and clean the oils off the area with some brake or carb cleaner, put a piece of tape on the OUTSIDE of the choke housing and a thin dab of JB KWIK from the inside of the housing... ten minutes later peel the tape off and you a smooth almost unnoticable repair.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

old_n_slo wrote:
You might want to research putting a hose clamp on that fuel line while your in there.


serious? those braided hoses are hard enough to get off...
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

keifernet wrote:
MODIFIER wrote:
I know how that hole got there.
anybody else?


I always attributed it to the air cleaner being "loose" and vibrating and rubbing on that spot. I have seen it quite a few times.


Bingo.
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea, I couldn't get the old fuel hose off without cutting it, at least when its pushed all the way on nice and snug.

anyway, for this one the PO didn't have it loose - it was on amazingly tight - to the point that when you first backed it out you could feel the screw unscrewing out of this hole. it was screwed in so tight they drove it straight into that thing.

thanks for the words of advise, ill pull it off and JB it up later tonight.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lanceevox wrote:
old_n_slo wrote:
You might want to research putting a hose clamp on that fuel line while your in there.


serious? those braided hoses are hard enough to get off...


I have seen a suggestion to use a plastic zip tie, as tight as you can get it. Metal clamps tend to absorb engine bay heat and cook the hose, cracking it. This works best if the carb pipe has a bulge at the end, but most don't. So second best idea is a FI hose clamp (not a worm clamp), safety wired to a tab under a carb top screw. And, of course, no plastic fuel filter in that line.
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
And, of course, no plastic fuel filter in that line.


the PO had no less than two of them in the engine compartment, both since removed.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have another carb of the same exact model like you said... Why not just swap the tops around, replace the needle valve, gasket, diaphragm and be done with it? Problem solved.
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is the 'spare' carb I found in one of the boxes I got with this beetle:

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Ive never taken one of these apart before (always had FI) - but the electric choke looks a little different, though I think (and maybe incorrectly) that I can just swap out that little round cap on the end and pop that into the spare one yea?

here is what the electric choke looks like on the current carb still mounted:
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a different designation of 30 pict -1 so swapping the top won't cut it.

I bet that carb says "47-1" on the back of the bowl and it's a 1300 cc carb from a 66.

It does not have the provision for the return spring and also does not have the "power enrichment circuit" so... forget swapping that top to your other carb.
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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there's a reason you always hear the word' keifernet' in the same sentence as 'carburetor'.

back to the JB weld for now then.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

airkooledchris wrote:

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From the looks of your carb at the base where the 13mm nut is... Your leaking fuel . It might be a good idea just to rebuild it anyway before you have a built in campfire.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 1:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

airkooledchris wrote:

there's a reason you always hear the word' keifernet' in the same sentence as 'carburetor'.

back to the JB weld for now then.


Ding Ding Ding! You are exactly correct. Keith is one of the people out there truly trying to help people get the best out of there VW's.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 3:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are planning on keeping your car for a long time, just buy a rebuilt one, or one from the calssifieds? I don't think they are real expensive, might give you a peace of mind and maybe help cut down on a engine fire.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Viande wrote:
airkooledchris wrote:

there's a reason you always hear the word' keifernet' in the same sentence as 'carburetor'.

back to the JB weld for now then.


Ding Ding Ding! You are exactly correct. Keith is one of the people out there truly trying to help people get the best out of there VW's.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slitt the braided fuel line .
No zip tie needed !
Spitt on it ! Wont come loose I promise .
Plastic fuel filter between carb and pump allow's monitoring of fuel pump pressure .
If proper plastic tear drop fuel filter is used and installed correctly ( wear cant rubb bounce etc. )
No more dangerous than the fuel line itself .
No clamp's should be used on fuel filter when cloth braided fuel line is used .
Excessive fuel pump pressure over ride's pump inlett valve needle .
This causes rich or fatt Condition or even flooded condition .
Indicative by surgeing and even stalling out at stop sign's .
Excessive Pump pressure is most often prevalent during cold weather condition's .
Early morning's etc. but symptom's can often cure themselves by noon or as day warm's up .
Take gas washing and fatt condition and add lack of thermostat wich most of us dont runn .
That's a lott of start up engine wear .
Metal or glass fuel filters should not ever be used inside engine compartment . Generally speaking .
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