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onwardtothestars Samba Member
Joined: April 04, 2007 Posts: 225 Location: Hazenville Pass Wyoming
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Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 9:44 am Post subject: |
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I have a rebuilt Mc2 longblock if you plan to go turbo. _________________ lots of VW's |
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danfromsyr Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004 Posts: 15144 Location: Syracuse, NY
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Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 9:31 am Post subject: |
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OK SO what did you do about the Clutch slave arm & Bracket? the Bellhousing from Parts place does not include those parts.
It only includes the cross shaft (which is good) but not the small arm & slave bracket from the outside.
they are also less then forthcoming in any gained intellectual knowledge.. ie. they wouldn't even say what/where one would make those parts work.. which after this many units they should at least say.. you need VW part # XXXX and can source it from YYYY or something..
it's this fleamarket take the part, we have no idea on it mentality that keeps me away from partsplace.inc at any purchases, (aside from this 5cyl Bellhousing, as they are the only easy US supplier)
snowsyncro wrote: |
onwardtothestars wrote: |
there is one on ebay |
Yup -- those would be surplus from the Parts Place -- that is where I got mine. Those are genuine VW South Africa OEM parts. Says he has 10, and that Buy It Now price is a fair one.
The picture doesn't show the clutch side, but mine included the cross-shaft and throwout bearing.
RonC |
_________________
Abscate wrote: |
These are the reasons we have words like “wanker” |
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crazyvwvanman Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008 Posts: 9936 Location: Orbiting San Diego
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Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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You use the wbx parts including the slave bracket though it must be heavily modified. I have made 2 that way for 5 cyls.
Mark
danfromsyr wrote: |
OK SO what did you do about the Clutch slave arm & Bracket? the Bellhousing from Parts place does not include those parts.
It only includes the cross shaft (which is good) but not the small arm & slave bracket from the outside.
they are also less then forthcoming in any gained intellectual knowledge.. ie. they wouldn't even say what/where one would make those parts work..... |
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SyncroGhia Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2009 Posts: 2458 Location: Highnam, UK
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Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 5:04 am Post subject: |
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I've carried out a 2.5TDi (AAT) conversion to my Syncro 16 using as many South African parts as possible for reliability.
I started off with a flywheel from a 2WD early 2.2 NA engine (unsure of engine code) and this worked until I started tweaking the motor and then it just slipped for fun.
I now run an MC code flywheel and clutch (240mm) but it's very very heavy under the foot and at the last gearbox rebuild (stock syncro gearboxes don't like 250ftlbs!), I realised that the release bearing cage was cracked and bent, the forks were suffering aswell as the slave cylidner so I modifed the release bearing case and forks and replaced the slave cylinder.
I can give you all the part numbers for the SA parts but they're only recognised in SA. I have imported all my parts direct from South Africa for my conversion and I think I probably ended up spending around £1000 inc shipping and import duties.
The van itself is a Syncro 16 which I've converted to Westfalia using the roof and interior from a California and then I've added parts from there. It weighs 4850lbs without me in it. Before the recent injector nozzle upgrade, I could get 35mpg (that's UK gallons of 4.546 litres per gallon) but since the upgrade, power has risen from 115bhp/200ftlbs to 145bhp/250ftlbs at the flywheel and mpg has dropped to 28-30mpg. I do tend to use the power more and drive regularly at 70mph rather than 60.
The gearbox spec is 4.57 c/p, stock R+G, stock 1st and V 2nd, 1.14 3rd and .70 4th and I'm running 215/85/16 tyres (Hankook Dynapro MTR) measuring 30.5inch tall so is 2477rpm @ 70mph or close to.
I've been tempted to move the thread I did from another forum to here and sent a question relating to this to one of the moderators but never got a reply... does anyone think that would be ok?
Here's a link to the thread.
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/limey-the-syncro-16-25tdi-westy-330mm-brakes_topic8602_page1.html
Mike Ghia
Last edited by SyncroGhia on Fri Mar 26, 2010 1:58 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Alaric.H Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2009 Posts: 2529 Location: Sandy Springs GA
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Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 5:15 am Post subject: |
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SyncroGhia wrote: |
I've carried out a 2.5TDi (AAT) conversion to my Syncro 16 using as many South African parts as possible for reliability.
I started off with a flywheel from a 2WD early 2.2 NA engine (unsure of engine code) and this worked until I started tweaking the motor and then it just slipped for fun.
I now run an MC code flywheel and clutch (240mm) but it's very very heavy under the foot and at the last gearbox rebuild (stock syncro gearboxes don't like 250ftlbs!), I realised that the release bearing cage was cracked and bent, the forks were suffering aswell as the slave cylidner so I modifed the release bearing case and forks and replaced the slave cylinder.
I can give you all the part numbers for the SA parts but they're only recognised in SA. I have imported all my parts direct from South Africa for my conversion and I think I probably ended up spending around £1000 inc shipping and import duties.
The van itself is a Syncro 16 which I've converted to Westfalia using the roof and interior from a California and then I've added parts from there. It weighs 4850lbs without me in it. Before the recent injector nozzle upgrade, I could get 35mpg (that's UK gallons of 4.546 litres per gallon) but since the upgrade, power has risen from 115bhp/200ftlbs to 145bhp/250ftlbs at the flywheel and mpg has dropped to 28-30mpg. I do tend to use the power more and drive regularly at 70mph rather than 60.
The gearbox spec is 4.57 c/p, stock R+G, stock 1st and V 2nd, 1.14 3rd and .70 4th and I'm running 215/85/16 tyres (Hankook Dynapro MTR) measuring 31.5inch tall so rpm is 2400 @ 70mph or close to.
I've been tempted to move the thread I did from another forum to here and sent a question relating to this to one of the moderators but never got a reply... does anyone think that would be ok?
Here's a link to the thread.
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/limey-the-syncro-16-25tdi-westy-330mm-brakes_topic8602_page1.html
Mike Ghia |
I have been watching your thread for years and you have been doing great work. I have talked to you a couple of times on the brickyard. |
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SyncroGhia Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2009 Posts: 2458 Location: Highnam, UK
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Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 5:17 am Post subject: |
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Good to see you here Alaric,
I've moved away from Brick-yard due to the owner starting to remove photos from the post without even notifying me.
I'd like to put it up here (if I get the ok) and carry on with the blog.
MG |
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Christopher Schimke Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2005 Posts: 5391 Location: PNW
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Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 7:05 am Post subject: |
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Hi Mike! How are your nuts?
I agree that the documentation of your build (which I have kept tabs on since the beginning) would be a GREAT addition here. As long as you left out all the other people's comments and only included your own words, I don't see a problem at all. I mean after all, they are your words and your pictures.
Please do it! _________________ "Sometimes you have to build a box to think outside of." - Bruce (not Springsteen)
*Custom wheel hardware for Audi/VW, Porsche and Mercedes wheels - Urethane Suspension Bushings*
T3Technique.com or contact me at [email protected] |
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SyncroGhia Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2009 Posts: 2458 Location: Highnam, UK
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Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 7:58 am Post subject: |
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Thanks loogy nuts doing well thanks... still holding the wheels on well even on the hardest offroading
I would only include technical info with photos.
MG _________________ T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD |
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Alaric.H Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2009 Posts: 2529 Location: Sandy Springs GA
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Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:43 am Post subject: |
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I thought that was you taking them off I stopped going there my self when mt reference photo es went away. |
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SyncroGhia Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2009 Posts: 2458 Location: Highnam, UK
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Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 1:59 pm Post subject: |
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No, it all got rather messy.
I've now moved the thread over to here and will continue to update this one only.
MG _________________ T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD |
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skyboy Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2005 Posts: 62
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Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 3:50 pm Post subject: |
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For those who've done any gas 5 cyl conversion, do you have any pictures of your exhaust setup. I'm curious how much ground clearance was lost. After talking with a CA BAR referee, this may be even more challenging as I have to keep a stock exhaust setup, so I'll need to use both cats and both front and back mufflers like the original donor ur-s6 or ur-s4 had.
Another quick question, ur-s6 or ur-s4 owners, do you know if there was any difference between a CA car and the rest of the US cars. (different ecu, check engine lights...)
thank you _________________ 1968 912 HWT
1991 Syncro Westfalia |
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danfromsyr Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004 Posts: 15144 Location: Syracuse, NY
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Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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that's just ridiculous to have to use the stock mufflers as well.
I can see the 2 cats. but if the noise level is in reason then it's in reason.
but if you need that much pluming it's going to get creative.
you may have to lose the propane tank and run up into and back out of that space as the SA vans did, then back to the rear and across to the PS to fit anything you can't fit in the DS before exiting the exhaust someplace PS rear corner.
I have about 24" of pipe + a muffler on mom's I5 2.5 Eurovan engine in the vanagon. but I'll go across to the PS and add a 2nd muffler to tone it down some more.
Dan in NY _________________
Abscate wrote: |
These are the reasons we have words like “wanker” |
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Derek L Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2009 Posts: 14 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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Mike,
I'm in the parts gathering stage of transplanting an Audi 3B engine (1991 200 20vt) into my Syncro using the SA bellhousing. Thanks to your posts I know my clutch&flywheel setup will work. Did you run into any issues with the pilot bearing? Was this part required http://www.vw-winkler.de/product_info.php/info/p169_Crank-shaft-adapter-case--for-Audi-5e-.html? Are you using the stock input shaft?
Thanks! _________________ -Derek
1987 Syncro 20v turbo (work in progress)
1986 Audi 4000q 20v turbo
1989 Audi 200q Avant
1977 Lancia Scorpion |
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SyncroGhia Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2009 Posts: 2458 Location: Highnam, UK
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Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 12:24 am Post subject: |
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I'm running the South African spigot bearing which fits into the crank.
It shouldn't be that hard to find one which is the correct size.
I'm also using the stock petrol input shaft which works with the MC friction plate.
MG _________________ T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD |
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crazyvwvanman Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008 Posts: 9936 Location: Orbiting San Diego
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Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 7:48 am Post subject: |
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I have an old 5 cyl conversion with the Winkler adapter but when I did another conversion I found a different stock part to do the same job of holding the VW pilot bearing. It was a while ago but I think it came from an automatic car. VW/Audi 059105329 may be it, not sure.
Mark
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SyncroGhia Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2009 Posts: 2458 Location: Highnam, UK
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Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:01 am Post subject: |
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I think there is a stock VW LT part (or something similar) which will do the job but the part number from VW is a South African part number: 22S 105 313 A. The measurements of the bearing from the catalogue are 18x24x16. I haven't had to fit another one since I did my conversion so I'd check your own crank i/d etc before going on those figures.
MG _________________ T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD |
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skyboy Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2005 Posts: 62
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Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 9:24 pm Post subject: |
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I think I may have found my donor car, I don't have room to store the whole vehicle, so I was just going to grab what I need, Engine, engine mounts, ac,ps,exhaust,turbo,coolers, flywheel, clutch, harness, ecu, alt. I'm sure there is something I'll forget. Any other parts I should grab. _________________ 1968 912 HWT
1991 Syncro Westfalia |
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SyncroGhia Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2009 Posts: 2458 Location: Highnam, UK
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Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 2:51 am Post subject: |
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The best tool you can take with you is your camera!
Take lots of photos of it before you start pulling it apart and then also as you remove parts.
You're going to need the complete wiring loom, which will take longer to remove than the engine! as me how I know
Don't forget the key/immboliser setup. I'm not sure what year your donor car is so it might or might not have one.
MG _________________ T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD |
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Vanagon Nut Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2008 Posts: 10379 Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
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Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:24 am Post subject: |
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SyncroGhia wrote: |
The best tool you can take with you is your camera!
Take lots of photos of it before you start pulling it apart and then also as you remove parts.
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Excellent suggestion. Wish I had done that before pulling donor parts for my swap.
Bring a Bentley. Unless you're familiar with where everything is.
Get all the EVAP stuff too. Charcoal canister, leak detection pump (if it has it) etc.
OBD interface.
That's all I can think of now.
Neil. _________________ 1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA
1988 West DIY 50º ABA
VE7TBN |
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Alaric.H Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2009 Posts: 2529 Location: Sandy Springs GA
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Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:32 am Post subject: |
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Vanagon Nut wrote: |
SyncroGhia wrote: |
The best tool you can take with you is your camera!
Take lots of photos of it before you start pulling it apart and then also as you remove parts.
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Excellent suggestion. Wish I had done that before pulling donor parts for my swap.
Bring a Bentley. Unless you're familiar with where everything is.
Get all the EVAP stuff too. Charcoal canister, leak detection pump (if it has it) etc.
OBD interface.
That's all I can think of now.
Neil. |
You will not need the EVAP are the Charcoal canister, leak detection pump if you happen to be doing a diesel as they do not use any of it. |
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