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CoastalAirCooledVW
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Joined: September 02, 2012
Posts: 1882
Location: Mckinleyville, CA (Humboldt County)
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 Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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| yachtybugger wrote: |
Thanks guys, I've got plenty of time before I need it again so will try and clean and dry it out. I wasn't sure if there were any rubber seals in there that may have been eaten by the fluid and I would be wasting my time.
When you say rebuilt, what exactly do they do? The Bentley says you can only replace 4 of the outer parts. I took this to mean the actual 'can' bit and the internals are not repairable. Am I wrong? |
I believe aeromech is right. You need special tools and the Bentley does not want everyone trying to repair something that they are not equipped for.
Brakes are not something you want to go cheap on or try to repair if you do not have the tools.
EDIT: Apparently the shop that used to rebuild them in Texas has shut down. To bad because my booster will need a rebuild and I heard that they did quality work
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1966 Velvet Green Standard
Last edited by CoastalAirCooledVW on Tue Jan 22, 2013 2:55 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16961
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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Unfortunately that place in Texas has gone out of business. He was the "go to" guy for cheap fast booster rebuilds. Today I use a shop near me but they charge 50% more to do the same job.
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Sweumteam
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Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 21
Location: Johns Creek GA.
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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Theirs a shop in Chicago called REI.Rebuilders Enterprises Inc.that will rebuild your booster for $135. ph.#800-489-9860.
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71 westfalia.1600 DP.009/dizzy and electronic ing. |
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kreemoweet
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Joined: March 13, 2008
Posts: 3898
Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 5:57 pm Post subject: |
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FYI, my '71 booster had a fair amount (~ 1 cup?) of brake fluid in it when it came into my possession, and it had been like
that for at least 8 years. I just mopped it out real well with bits of rag manipulated with sticks (you have that
annoying big spring to work around). I think solvents would not be desirable in there.
That booster has been giving daily good service for about 15 years now.
Opinions will vary, but I really think that ATE had better sense than to build brake components whose "rubber"
parts could not withstand a little exposure to brake fluid.
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Last edited by kreemoweet on Tue Jan 22, 2013 9:20 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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| kreemoweet wrote: |
Opinions will vary, but I really think that ATE had better sense that to build brake components whose "rubber"
parts could not withstand a little exposure to brake fluid. |
I agree, a lot of people seem to site problems with some '60 vintage US rig when they say that brake fluid will hurt the rubber in the booster. What brake fluid will do though is attract moisture and cause corrosion in the booster. Best to get the brake fluid out and the moisture asap. |
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bmweuro
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Joined: September 04, 2004
Posts: 242
Location: Chico, CA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 10:20 pm Post subject: |
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Talk to Brian at www.latenightaircooled.com. He has a good cheap source.
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Amskeptic
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Joined: October 18, 2002
Posts: 8568
Location: All Across The Country
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 10:29 pm Post subject: |
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I did one stoop repair of a booster. Lots of annoyance with the crimped outer seam and keeping the booster diaphragm seated while compressing it all back together. The good news is that I fixed it. The bad news is that the brake fluid that does get in there really does promote rusting, as mentioned above by Little Gets Past Him Wiildthings. This crusted up the control valve, a sophisticated and precise piece of cheap plastic with little metal collar and a rustable spring.
Colin
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Davidcu
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Joined: December 03, 2011
Posts: 67
Location: Oregon
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| Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 10:55 am Post subject: ECU Units |
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Will a 1978 Bosch ECU unit 022-906-021AE California Manual work in place of a 1977 022-906-021S Federal Manual? The application is my Westfalia Camper. Is there a problem with a Rev limiter in the ECU for the California model? Seems to have a miss at high RPM with the 78 ECU. Just wondering if there is anyone out there that has tried this swap? Thanks for any infor you can give me.  |
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SamboSamba22
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2015
Posts: 2772
Location: Benton, Arkansas
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| Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2016 3:58 am Post subject: Re: brake booster problems 71 vw bus |
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Brake Question!
What would cause a brake pedal to start out firm and solid, but while applying it become soft and sink?
I have brake pressure, good pressure, then I brake on and off, say 2 or 3 times, the pedal becomes soft and I have to give them a pump.
Does bleeding the rear then front first truly matter?
1974 Westy with disc up front w/ dual bleeder screws. Rear wheels have been adjusted with the star adjusters. New rubber lines, rear wheel cylinders. Pads and shoes all new. Vacuum is set up to the intakes and vacuumed to the brake booster.
I'll continue to read the Bentley. Thanks in advance guys,
Sam
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lil-jinx
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Joined: August 14, 2013
Posts: 1109
Location: New Brunswick,Canada
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| Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 8:31 am Post subject: Re: brake booster problems 71 vw bus |
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I am replacing my master cylinder with this,IAP 211611021AABR ,and I need a servo,I see there are early 74 and late 74 boosters,what is the difference and which one goes with this varga MC?
Thanks,
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1974 Bay Westfalia. she likes to be called Ethel.
1968 Dune Buggy
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kreemoweet
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Joined: March 13, 2008
Posts: 3898
Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 9:50 am Post subject: Re: brake booster problems 71 vw bus |
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Where are you seeing this "early 74 and late 74" stuff? AFAIK, there are only 71-72 and 73-79 (or maybe the transition date was 73 or 74) variants of
the booster. The later one is a bit larger, and has slightly greater boost ratio, and the air supply (not vacuum) connection
is a different size.
All 71-79 master cylinders should work with any of the boosters.
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16961
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 1:41 pm Post subject: Re: brake booster problems 71 vw bus |
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Aftermarket booster
http://www.busdepot.com/211612103x
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DC9/MD80
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TomWesty
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Joined: November 23, 2007
Posts: 3482
Location: Wyoming,USA
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| Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 7:30 pm Post subject: Re: brake booster problems 71 vw bus |
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That doesn’t seem to be the Airtec booster that everyone else is peddling.
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16961
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 8:30 pm Post subject: Re: brake booster problems 71 vw bus |
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I have no idea who makes it and I’m not recommending it except to show it’s one option. When I put power brakes in Cynthia’s 1968 bus I bought an aftermarket booster for $150 from my local VW parts house. I have no idea who made it but it worked with some effort.
Recently I had the chance to buy an original booster off CL for $40. Tomorrow I pick it up from Bush Power Brake and I’ll have $190 invested but I’ll have an original booster as a rebuilt spare.
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Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
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lil-jinx
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TomWesty
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Joined: November 23, 2007
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Location: Wyoming,USA
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| Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 8:35 am Post subject: Re: brake booster problems 71 vw bus |
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| lil-jinx wrote: |
The early/late comes from many site stating that the early booster fits 74 model up to 2110465.
I saw this, https://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-211-611-905 and have it in the cart.going to look around a bit more,but this will likely be the one.
I have checked bus depot,but with shipping and funds conversion,it adds another $100 plus to the cost.
Thanks for the input. |
That looks like the Airtec one. I put one on my ‘71 last summer. If you buy it, just measure how much the pushrod protrudes from the face of the booster on the MC side of your old one and set the new one to the same protrusion. Mine has worked just fine so far.
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sethpat
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Location: Orlando
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kreemoweet
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Joined: March 13, 2008
Posts: 3898
Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 11:03 am Post subject: Re: brake booster problems 71 vw bus |
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I think it would be reasonable to presume that all those boosters with the funny blue-colored metal at the pedal linkage connection are all made
by the same folks. They are sold by many different vendors, including CIP1 and Wolfsburg West. I reviewed the one I got here:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=583610&highlight= . There is another more recent reviewer in this Bay Window Bus forum who had very
similar findings. There are others who mention installing one and experiencing no problems.
CIP1, in particular, will put the label "Original OEM German Quality" on all manner of crap parts.
In any event, any booster you get MUST be checked for pushrod interference with the master cylinder piston, as I've found that even a new
genuine ATE boostere can have a problem there.
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scubasteve321
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Joined: December 04, 2015
Posts: 247
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| Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 10:50 pm Post subject: Re: brake booster problems 71 vw bus |
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I've researched, and researched, and even came across a post I made a couple years ago with a very similar problem (ha)
I am now thoroughly confused as to what constitutes free-play in the brake pedal
Anything from a full-stop starts the free-play countdown to 5-7 mm?
Or
Is there little bit of 'clevis pin' action as Colin pointed out in one post, and then you start counting the 5-7 mm?
Furthermore, if I adjusted my push-rod too far, can I just drive a few miles to see if my brakes are heating up, and if they are, obviously adjust it further out?
Or
Will that possibly brake the main seal in my MC as the rod would then possibly be pushing too far? If that were the case, I would see obvious leakage?
I don't seem to have the 'touch' to feel the push rod touch and then back off.... I thought I was making progress by hearing it touch, but after backing it all the way off and hearing the sound the whole way I just wrote it off as the creak and groan of the rod moving
Furthermore, my driver's side caliper is dragging, brand new brake hose, reading that perhaps there may be dirt in the steel lines between that caliper and the MC....
But, my wheel also has quite a bit of movement when jacked up (bearings or ball joints?) Could the wheel have the side-to-side (towards interior of bus and back again) be part of my caliper issue?
Finally, if I loosen the caliper bolts a bit it has much less drag, but I am fearful that they are then too lose, should I add some spacers, torque it to specs, then re-evaulate?
Thanks to Bus-Daddy who answered a similar post in the stupid question thread and for everyone's support!
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kreemoweet
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Joined: March 13, 2008
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Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 9:38 am Post subject: Re: brake booster problems 71 vw bus |
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The "free play" at the pedal doesn't matter. What matters is where the pedal linkage connects to the big operating rod coming from the front of the
booster. It's a clevis pin connection, and the only "free play" you need there is a bit of movement in the pedal/linkage before the booster rod
starts getting pushed in. You can screw the booster operating rod in and out to make that happen.
The other required "free play" is where the internal booster push rod goes into the front piston of the master cylinder, which should be about 1 mm. There's
no way to check that with the M/C and brake lines installed, and you certainly can't "feel" it at the brake pedal. There may or may not be a way to change it, depending on the booster. If it needs to be increased and there's no adjustable tip on the booster push rod, you'll have to fab a spacer shim to put between the M/C and booster.
Calipers can drag for a lot of different reasons, and loosening the caliper bolts is not a solution. Needing spacers is an indication that you have the wrong parts installed.
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