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Limey, The Syncro 16 Westy. Was 2.5TDi, Now 2.2 20V Turbo!
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When chatting to a friend earlier this evening, he was asking how much I'd spent so far on the engine conversion... I did a very quick calculation in my head and decided that I could have done a Subaru Turbo conversion using all the Small car parts for less money! These things aren't cheap!

Ah well, I've got this far etc etc and it should be great offroad.

Todays update is fairly small one but another step closer...

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My latest bit of kit is this lamp which is fantastic and comes well recomended!

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And just a small pic of how the van is looking at the moment on wheels which really need painting!

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MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After buying silicone hoses, stainless steel/aluminium pipes and bends from all over the country, I find a place less than 3 miles away from me which could have supplied everything with ease! Ah well now I know for future projects.

http://www.venairsport.co.uk/

I bought this earlier from ebay... a bargain and just what I need for the 16. Innovation didn't seem that bothered about selling anything!

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MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not much going on with this atm due to the Tristar work. Smile

The wheels (another ebay bargain) will be going on with 245/75/16 tyres once I have the Tristar wheels.

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Got the inlet pipe finished, just need to add the mushroom top.

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MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

V Small update due to the fact that it's pissing down and I don't have a garage or lean to big enough to put this thing under

Sorted modding the coolant tank bracket so that they sit under the lid and don't catch any of the engine components. I welded a few spacers onto the frame so it would sit in the right place.

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I'll have to shorten a coolant pipe a little Very Happy and make up a small bracket to weld onto the body for the 3rd mounting point but otherwise everything fits ok. Lots more to do.. hoping for a gap in the weather.

MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another small update.

Cut down and test fitted the last silicone boost pipe again supplied by Venair. I need to buy a few small ally pipes and make some brackets to bolt the charge cooler down in situ and then take everything to my welder.

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Bought a TDi throttle pedal assembly which I was hoping might fit behind the dash tube but it won't [IMG]smileys/smiley19.gif" align="middle[/IMG]. I will look into bolting it on next to the steering column surround but I'm not sure yet if the angles will be right for the pedal to feel right under the foot. Plus I'll have to move the brake pipes etc. I might look around at other TDi pedal assemblies in the mean time.

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I think I'll have a good stint at the wiring etc tomorrow.

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We've had a good day today. I had a helping hand from a good friend (Byron take a bow!) who works for Lotus.

First on the menu was to replace the gearbox mounts which I stole for the Tristar as they were missing. One of the bolts made a mess coming out when they were removed so a Time-sert later and they're back on and bolted up properly.

Next was looking at the throttle potentiometer again and with ideas between us, Byron fitted up the potentiometer block, heavily modified the throttle arm by cutting and welding it and finally welding the pedal back on. I think results speak for themselvse. I might make up a cover to go over the potentiometer but haven't decided yet.

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This setup has several advantages over other TDi conversions. You can remove the original pedal completely and weld up the floor. You don't have the potentiometer somewhere else like under the floor up front or in the engine bay where it can get wet (they don't like getting wet! I know from experience!) and you don't have a cable to worry about.

I'll run the cables from the rear to the front in the roof frame along with the immobiliser wiring.

Next was to make up a bracket for the 3rd bolt of the cooling tank assembly.

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Start with a bit of plate...

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A bit of cutting and grinding and then a nut welded on the back...

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And bolted in place. I'll run a seam of weld along the bottom of it in the van when I weld in all the other little brackets I'm making for various things around the engine bay and it'll get painted body colour when the van is painted.

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A couple of small brackets made up for the relay box..

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Then back to the Chargecooler to finish off fittings and water pipes..

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I've drilled 4 20mm holes through the floor and the chargecooler with have 4 lugs welded on underneath which in turn will be tapped out to M6. That way it'll be rubber mounted so as not to vibrate as the engine rattles to van to pieces! I made up the water pipes, in and out.. pics of these when I get the chargecooler back from welding.

Here's where the lugs will sit.

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Right now I'm looking for a bead roller. At this rate I'll be making my own. If anyone has one kicking around or knows of anyone who I can borrow one from, please let me know.

MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it's been a while but I've just managed to get the Chargecooler into the welders and have it finished off.

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Now this is done, I can bolt it in and get the rest of the Chargecooler water system connected up and running.

I've still not managed to find a sensibly priced bead roller to roll beads into the ends of the pressure pipes but at the moment I'll be running stock pressure which is no more than 11-16psi.. hopefully everything should stay put. Once I start upgrading, I'll have to bite the bullet.

MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted!

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I've got the do some more tig welding on the main inlet pipe for the breather to connect to.

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I'll be fitting lots of stainless steel hose clamps soon and some bigger M6 washers!

The chargecooler water system will run as follows:
(The catch tank runs in the system rather than just being there for topping up so it also acts to self bleed rather than the system creating air locks.)

Catch tank out --- to --- Water pump in
Water pump out --- to --- Radiator in
Radiator out --- to --- Chargecooler in (lower pipe)
Chargecooler out --- to --- Catch tank in

MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update on Limey.

I used half of today to visit my friend with his Tig welder again to try to get the stainless stuff finished.

For whatever reason me and tig weren't getting on very well today but I got most of it done.

The main inlet pipe breather pipe is now finished along with the Snorkel top piece. I'll be painting this body colour when the van gets a paint job.

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I had a rethink on the exhaust after having drilled many holes through the stainless 3 inch bore pipe and bought some exhaust bits from Milner Offroad to make my silencer and got as far as possible with the tig welder. I think I'll be buying some stainless wire and straight Argon gas for the my mig welder from now on.

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With help from the chop saw, things got shorter...

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And then longer again with a section of the new exhaust silencer centre added.

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The silencer is only 12 inches long and 5 inches in diameter. With the ID bore being 3 inch, that only leaves an inch all the way around for the stainless steel wool to absorb sound. Hmmm I think it's gonna be noisey!

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another update of lots of small things. It's amazing how long it takes to do all these little bits!
I have bought a new power steering bottle and bracket from VW, a bargain at £28 all in!

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The factory position is just to the left of the diesel fuel filter but I'd already used one of the mounting holes for a wiring socket bracket.

I couldn't find anywhere else where it would fit nicely so the socket got moved again.

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Once bolted into position (not easy as the bracket has captive nuts but on a syncro, the fuel tank is in the way of getting into fit bolts. I figured that I could turn the wiring socket bracket through 90o and bolt it to the new bracket. Great but that meant drilling a hole in it and I really didn't want to spend another 1/2 hour fiddling with finger tips on spanners trying to undo bolts I can't even see.

Hmmm, ahah that last drill I bought but hardly ever use will finally get used!

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Yey for Snap-on Very Happy

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Now that the bottle is fitted, I could start on the pipework. I've manged to use the Audi A6 bottle to pump pipe and Pressure pipe (after some heating up and tweeking for the right angle) from the pump and I'll have a feed pipe made up to go from that to the rack. The return is low pressure so I'll use stock hose.

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You can also make out the coolant pipe just below the servo pipe which now has a VW joining piece (from the heater matrix front to rear pipes on a T3) in with spring clips. This was the last of the mods needed for the cooling system so it's ready for coolant now.

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I've made up a list of the remaining things needed to get it running. It's getting closer and it's taken even longer that I anticipated.

MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small update but I'm getting there slowly. I need less projects!

The exhaust is finished and bolted on

The heat wrap should keep the temps down in the engine bay

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MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wiring update.. boy does this wiring ever end?!

I've used the connector from an old engine loom to connect directly into the van loom which then passes up into the van to connect to the TDi loom. All the relevant oil pressure, water temp, rev counter (connected to W terminal I had fitted to the alternator), Alternator idiot light, Glow plug light, feed for chargecooler pump, ign feed, and starter trigger have been connected up.

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Also managed to get the final high current wire (feed to the relay box) connected onto the back of the alternator and it happened to be the right length.. phew!

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The remaining wires which need to be connected are speed sensor, brake/clutch switches, throttle potentiometer, oil presssure (guage), aux water pump feed, (will be connected to first speed of cooling fan) oil temp and immobiliser are now wired up to pass through the roof section of the van and down the N/S front pillar to behind the dash. I'm using the bulk of an old loom for the front to rear section I'll be fitting. It's only when you put a wire through the route which you're planning out, pull it back out again and then measure it that you realise just how long they have to be! 7 1/2 meters long!! X15..

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I need more wire to finish the loom so if anyone has broken a van and has the remains of an old loom, please get in touch Wink

The 16 now starts and runs (for more than 1/2 a second now that I've remembered the immobiliser box Laughing gears all work, clutch and brakes etc. I just need the loom to the front to connect up to the throttle and I'll be able to take it for a drive!

Other little jobs finally done are the wastergate pipe on the turbo (as I'd re-indexed the compressor housing of the turbo), alternator wiring for rev counter, wiring for oil pressure sender (for guage aswell as idiot light).

MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More bits'n'pieces done today.

I've managed to get the chargecooler all plumbed in, just hose clips to finish and wiring the pump up to the engine loom to go.

As Limey was originally a 2.1DJ engine'd van, the remains of the fuel pump brackets were still on the N/S tank strap. After 1/2 an hour of careful work on removing the remains of the original rubber bobbins and cleaning the threads with a tap, I bought new clamp halves and bobbins from (clamps £1.30 each, bobbins £5 ish each). The Chargecooler pump is the same diameter as the stock fuel pump so after a bit of black insulation tape to stop corrosion, it was bolted up in place.

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Oh yes the bottom of Limey still needs a damn good clean, yes the gearbox is the original (hence the colour) and it leaks, and yes I'm missing a brake flexi fixing!) [IMG]http://brick-yard-co-uk.olympus.webwizhost.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif" height="17" width="17" alt="Wink" title="Wink[/IMG]

The pipes run tucked up next to the loom and using existing bodywork/cross member holes.

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All tiewraps were trimmed just after the pic (wish I'd taken it after now!).

A Pace Chargecooler radiator from one of my other chargecooler setups has been used and I've managed to modify the brackets which were on it to fix the radiator to the 2 vertical bars which sit in front of the main radiator while still leaving room between the 2 radiators and enough room for a small oil cooler underneath.

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The pipes run nicely under the front keeping them out of harms way when offroading, also they're away from other coolant pipes to help keep temperature stable.

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I'll be adding a heat sheild in the engine bay over the return line (and wiring) which runs close (about 6 inches away) to the exhaust.

I've just ordered a load of wire sleeving and crimp on connections from http://www.autoelectricssupplies.co.uk. We'll see how long the bits take to arrive and quality etc. They cheap though Smile

MG
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Last edited by SyncroGhia on Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:42 am; edited 1 time in total
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small update as I've been running around fixing family cars again grrrr...

I've finished the chargecooler system, all hose clipes fitted, wiring finished on that including water proof connections and it's filled up with anti-freeze and circulating well. It'll take a few journeys around to get all the air out of the system but as the tank is in the system, it'll self bleed. I can put the grill back on now Smile .

The wiring to the front of the van is still ongoing. Thanks to Markpark for coming up trumps with another loom for me to canibalise. I now have about 10 meters (that's about 30ft!) of loom to thread through the roof of the van. Once the sleeving turns up I'll probably spend 2 hours just getting everything threaded through Very Happy

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Something which has been bugging me about the last time I had this engine in a vehicle (Poshbuggers Doka Syncro), I had to have the Audi ignition switch in the system for the immobiliser but I also wanted to be able to use that function, i.e. take the key away with me so I knew it couldn't be stolen. On my old doka I had the ign switch dangling around by the steering column. I looked very carefully into trying to incorporate the immobiliser ring (which surrounds the ign switch) onto the van ignition switch but it doesn't come apart. So I decided to drill a hole into the steering column housing and glue the Audi setup in place so that I can use the key and it looks fairly neat.

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Yes Limey has a heated drivers seat!

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MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it's been a very long day finishing off the wiring and an even longer time coming to this point where I can finally drive it.

For the first time in 19 months, Limey has moved under his own steam!

The wiring sleeving and fittings turned up as promised this morning, great stuff!

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I spent the next 2-3 hours getting all that wire into the sleeving and then another couple of hours or so feeding it through the roof and down the front pillar to behind the dash.

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Once I've driven around with no error codes in the ECU and I don't want to modify any of the wiring, I'll be using loom tape to wrap everything up neatly. This is the stuff which is used from the factory on looms under dashboards etc. Very sticky and horrible to get off so I don't want to be trying to remove it later.

The loom had to pass through from the rear pillar to the room. As stock this isn't possible as there's no hole through the several skins of metal. I drilled a fair size hole through into that area and then into the panels behind to allow the loom to pass through. I'll probably put a grommit in the hole once it's painted up to allow for later access if needed.

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I took the opertunity to drill the A-pillar for a grab handle as I wanted access to where the wiring was going and LHD vans don't get them.

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I have 3 spare wires unused from front to rear for future upgrades etc like gearbox temp, intake charge temp etc etc (or anything I've forgotten!).

Once there, I connected up the throttle potentiometer, immobiliser and started him up. Hmmm, no throttle response. Checked it with the old throttle potentiometer, works ok. It turned out that the pins aren't numbered the same and after 20 mins checking what pin did what with the multimeter, a quick rewire and we're in business!

After that I figured while I was doing wiring and as I'd wired in the sensors for oil temp and oil pressure guages, it would seem silly not to fit them now. So with all that lot connected up and damn good clean up, I took the helm and boy does it move off the mark quickly. The throttle response from tickover is great.

I haven't wired up the clutch and brake switches yet (haven't fitted them yet!) so they'll be error codes from that and as there's no front diff in at the moment, the speed sensor will come up as another error code. As a result I'll not get the full hp until they're sorted.

I'm dead chuffed with it. Just some work on the brakes and we're up for an MOT. Then the Tristar can go into storage and I can start on one of the other vans Laughing

MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting ready for MOT today so brakes have been worked upon, front to rear done along with a few small pipes. Calipers free'd off! pads cleaned up, rear drums adjusted up (new wheel cylinders coming tomorrow), all lights checked. Boy are these tyres noisey!

I managed to get hold of a T3 diesel sound deadening mat from ebay. Thanks to SyncroAndy for collecting it for me, bringing it up and dropping it off to Aidan and then thanks to Aidan for storing it until I managed to get over to collect!! I fitted it today and trimmed it to fit around the snorkel and wiring.

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The small bits of welding which have been waiting until the van could move under it's own steam got done today. These included the relay box, the coolant tank bracket 3 fixing point and the bodywork which surrounds the engine bay where the cambelt cover was getting in the way.

The brackets which hold the relay box were already cut and cleaned up, the metal on the body was cleaned up with the dremel and welded up.

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The rear metal work arond the engine bay was a bit fiddly as I wanted to just add a small raised area to go over the cambelt cover but still use the stock engine seal and have the lid shut as normal.

One gap!

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One piece of slightly modified metal which had been cut out...

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Add a strengthening piece...

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Weld it up properly and add a strengthening plate under where it's going back in...

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Tack it in place and slowly weld up moving from place to place to help keep distortion to a minimum.

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Then grind back all the weld and try to get as smooth a finish as possible followed by some primer. The seal has been glued back in and the whole lot will get filled and painted properly when the van has a respray.

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Oh yes, modify the lid slightly to allow for the raised area.

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This lid has numerour clearancings for everything in the engine bay. It's really that close to the lid!

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastically great day! Flew through the MOT without any problems or even an advice sheet!

The morning was a little hectic picking up a front number plate, 2 rear wheel cylinders (more on that soon), fitting them and bleeding up the brakes after replacing the main front to rear pipe all before 12pm.

I was so happy, I spent a few hours cleaning up the other set of wheels with road tyres on, painted them and washed the van. It looks so much better with nice wheels and a good wash. The paint needs a good buff up and a wax but otherwise I'm happy with the way it looks. A spare wheel carrier would be nice! and the suspension needs to go up a bit but now it's passed an MOT, that'll start to happen.

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I've got to build the TDi gearbox and front diff so that'll be next. I'm into 4th gear at about 30mph at present so long trips are not an option.

Oh, the rear wheel cylinders.

For those of you with Syncro 16 T3s, you can use LT Twin Axle rear wheel cylinders from a 1989 model. They are about 1/2mm bigger internal diameter than the originals, but they're about £15 each from GSF and they work with everything else. I tried fitted stock Syncro 14 items (same as 2WD) but as the shoes are wider, the fixing points which slip into the jaws of the whel cylinders are further out aswell so they won't sit level with the backing plate.

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update on other stuff. I've started on the TDi gearbox. The specs are as follows:

4.57:1 Crown and pinion from Weddle

Standard G, R (6.06:1) and 1st (3.78:1) gears.

Higher of the 2 available 2nd gears (1.88:1) which comes in the AV* gearboxes.

Albins 1.14:1 3rd gear and 0.70:1 4th gear.

Oil temp sensor located just under cluster for hottest temp readings.

Oil cooling circuit using oil spray, cooler, pump and filter arrangement.

I've spent some of today on the phone to difference race gearbox shops around UK only to find that nobody fits external oil systems to gearboxes.. they all fit bigger gearboxes!

As I can't do that and I'm going to be putting (eventually when it's chipped etc) over 160bhp and 250ftlbs through this gearbox. I want it to have the best chance of living.

The amount of money in this little lot alone is scary.

I'm designing my own oiling system using whatever I can find which I think will work so if something looks daft for an obvious reason (which I will probably have missed) then speak up! I'm all ears... the more ideas the better.

Ok, I've towed heavy things with this engine before and the gearbox really wasn't happy. It got hot... really hot! Like unable to touch it hot. You could just go close to it and have your fingers singed!

Firstly I want to know just how hot the gearbox is. So I looked all over for somewhere I could install an oil temp sender (same as the one fitted to the oil system on the engine from Audi so I can just swap the wire over from that to the gearbox and use the same gauge). I spotted the nice hole already cast into the bottom of the gearbox just under the cluster. As the cluster has the most and smallest moving parts, it'll be getting the hotest so directly under them should be where the oil is at it's hotest.

I took an M14x1.5 bolt, drilled and tapped it to M10x1 (thread size of the oil temp sender).

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Then I tapped the hole in the case to M14x1.5,

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fitted the bolt with thread sealant,

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let it set and then chopped off the remainder of the bolt.

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The hole is about 20mm deep and the temp sender is only about 10mm long so it won't protrude into the cluster area. Just so you know, I managed to tapp the remaining outer threads with the insert in the case without it even moving a snippet so it's well sealed and not coming out. I then filed the remainder of the bolt flush with the cash for a nice flat surface for the sender to seal against.

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MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now onto the gearbox building itself.

One crown and pinion with new Pinion bearing. This bearing is responsible for a lot of gearboxes going bang! They wear and allow the pinion to move forwards in the gearbox putting pressure against G + R gears, cluster and bearings writing them off almost instantly. The other common fault with these gearboxes is the synchro hub for 3rd/4th gears (4th/5th in a 5 Speed).

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The pinion bearing is a double taper roller bearing. I.e. there are 2 bearings in it!

Press on the outer bearing

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Followed by the race and then the other bearing. I loaded the lot up to about 7-8 tons here just to make sure they're in fully. The centres of the inner and outer bearings touch in the middle so none of that 7-8 tons is put into the rollers or race themselves.

Then you need our first special tool to tighten the pinion bearing nut onto the Pinion shaft.

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Also in this picture (above) is the pinion bearing nut which doubles as 1st gear bearing race.

Next we have to heat up the nut to 60oC, fit it into the first part of the tool which is clamped up tight in the vice. Then use the other part which slides onto the splines of the pinion shaft and you tighten the lot up to 160ftlbs. You are actually turning the pinion shaft rather than the nut here.

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One pinion bearing nut fitted and tightened up.

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Next is first gear race, first gear, first gear synchro ring, a circlip and 1st/2nd synchro hub.

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I've used good 2nd hand parts here as to buy everything new would cost more than buying a brand new box from VW (2K plus v.a.t exchange!).

Then another circlip, 2nd gear bearing, 2nd gear and the first of our Albins gears. 3rd gear which fits onto the spline followed by a circlip.

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4th gear goes on last followed by another circlip.

Next we're onto the main shaft (new from VW at £228.85 plus v.a.t)

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Here's 3rd gear, 4th gear, Weddles own specially machined 3/4 synchro hub and new synchro rings.

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Albins gears are about £200 a set so you can see how the money going into this gearbox is going up very quickly!

I've managed to miss taking pics of the main shaft built up but it's just a case of sliding bits on, pressing the synchro hub on imbetween etc.

I've been speaking to lots of friend throughout today so thanks to their help with brain storming.

Stan popped over after work with an oil pump which he thought might work.

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It's fairly compact and I'm hoping to be able to fit it in the same place that the PTO takes up on syncros. This is a fairly rare option if you've not heard of it.

The idea is to fit the pump next to the front output flange and drive it with the idler gear. This runs at 3.3:1 speed so fairly slow.

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More on this as I work out how to fit. I'll have to cut up an end case, drill and tapp the idler gear to take a shaft, buy some ally to make up a flange for the oil pump to bolt to. The oil pump comes with a plastic driveshaft which is designed to shear when something goes wrong with the pump rather than everything getting destroyed.

I'll probably be using brake pipe to run from the pump to the case at certain points to spray oil over the crown/pinion where they meet, the pinion bearing/1st gear, 3/4th gears and one in the R/G housing to cool things there. The return will be from the sump plug, through a filter, oil cooler (oil to water cooler using the chargecooler cooling circuit) and back up to the pump. The system will have a temp sensor to activate the solenoid on the pump to switch it on and off at the right temps.

Lots to work out yet including flow rates, how the pump will cope with gearbox oil when it's cold and what size jets to use (if any.. brake pipe might be just about right on it's own) and how to fit all this lot under a syncro!

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be using an oil to water cooler to cool the oil. That'll be using the water system which cools the chargecooler.

Nige, good question re synchro hub. I can't remember but I think they about £100... Aidan will be able to give you an up to date cost. He might be along in a bit.

Update for today on the gearbox stuff.

I bought some brake pipe fittings from Venair.

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Then drilled and tapped my test gearbox case (dead one I tried the oil temp sender drilling on earlier) in the best places I could think of for the oil to be fed back into the gearbox.

The first is going onto the crown and pinion.

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Not sure if I'm going to add any pipe on the inside. It'll depend on how much pressure there is I guess.

Next is in the side of the gearbox spraying oil into the pinion bearing behind 1st gear. This one will need a pipe extending from the fitting to just before the bearing through the 2nd hole in the pic.

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The third is in the intermediate plate. I've tried to position this so it will spray generally over 3rd and 4th gears. I may look into trying to use an oiling rail which will run along above the gears so they all get a good coating. Not sure if there's enough room for it or not though.

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The last is going into the G & R housing to keep everything moving well as it's the last place that gets oiled in the gearbox.

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With this lot fitted I set about making up some brake pipes to connect them up with T-pieces as I only have 2 outs from the pump. I'm not very happy with the way the bottom pipe turned out so I'll redesign that one later so it doesn't stick out so much. It'll do for a test with the pump though.

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I would've made up some pipes to go to the pump but the it takes different fittings which I didn't have today. I'll pick some up tomorrow and use a drill to turn the pump to see how much oil is thrown out of the pipes. The pump is designed to run between 1400-3500rpm which is about the same as my large Black and Decker Laughing . It'll be messy but interesting to watch!

MG
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