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Limey, The Syncro 16 Westy. Was 2.5TDi, Now 2.2 20V Turbo!
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small update today,

The work on the gearbox has stopped as I wanted to get more done on making Limey nicer to drive.

Also I'm still trying to get Vag-com to talk to the ECU. I spent from about 11am til 5pm (when I gave up) checking wiring to and from the ECU and to and from the OBD socket. In the end I put it all back together and drove over to see a friend who has a Sykes-Pickavent code reader and ofcourse he plugged it in and immediately read off all the error codes! How infuriating is that?!

Anyway, the code errors were brake switch (which I was expecting), immobiliser (from when I tried to start it without the immobiliser connected!), lift sensor error (which wouldn't clear) and fuel temp sensor error.

Back to working at mine again and I check the resistance of the lift sensor. Hmm that's within tolerances. Ok check the wiring, lots more checking out wiring on the faxed material from Busboy and then phonecalls to check what his engine setup was running. Bugger I've got the damn plugs the wrong way round! Doah!!

Ok swap them over... hmmm now it won't start. Bugger and don't I feel the prize muppet.

Ok now the battery is dying and the starter doesn't sound too happy.

Another battery and jump leads later (now I'm getting desperate!), still won't start and the starter has just died. Bollocks!

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Ok so I take off the oil filter (yes you have to remove the oil filter to remove the startermotor on this van! but it's still a lot easier than on a stock syncro), take out the starter and it's missing the whole snout! WOW. I had to fish the remainder out of the bellhousing. Ok I'm really glad I bought the spare on ebay about a month ago. Back in with that, oil filter back on and try again. Ok it turns the engine over but still doesn't want to fire. I'm not killing another starter so I get a friend to tow start me (in 3rd). It just won't fire. It pops and farts with a wonderful smoke screen behind me. After stopping a few times and disconnecting either the lift sensor or the pump solenoid, it turns out to be the pump solenoid which is causing the problems. Now the lift senors is connected up properly, my glow plug light has stopped flashing and boy does this thing go! Laughing

Yes I'm a muppet for connecting them up the wrong way and I may have killed the solenoid in the process (not cheap!) but hey, it still runs well.

One more problem though, now that I'm getting full power, the clutch slips Twisted Evil AAAHHH!!!

Ok so the clutch will get done when I put in the gearbox (which I've still got to build!).

If it's not one thing, it's another. I'm off to order a new housing for this startmotor, good thing you can order the parts seperately!

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had the gearbox out, fitted a 240mm flywheel and clutch from an MC engine which fits and works but I onlt figured out once everything was back in that the startermotor won't fit due to more mass on the back of the flywheel. I'm using a startermotor from my AAN engine for the moment although it's a bit slower than the TDi starter.

The clutch doesn't slip but it's mega heavy! My left leg is having a hard time.

I've just completed a 600 mile journey around UK in Limey and he never missed a beat. Pulls very well and coped with the appalling weather on tuesday (including driving through 2 ft water on the A40!).

The gearbox works very well and has quietened down to silent after the journey as everything's bedded in.

Here's a gear chart so you can see what everything looks like with shift rpms etc.

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In top gear, 60 = 2120rpm, 70 = 2460rpm, 80 = 2820rpm and 90 = 3180rpm. The engine pulls from 40mph in 4th which is 1400rpm which takes away the problem of the large gap from 3rd to 4th. Very handy on the motorway!
MG
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syncrosimon
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow Shocked Mike, that is a great deal easier to read through. Respect Cool

Simon.

God I love these build threads.
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update on suspension,

I've fitted 2WD (blue paint marks) front springs, brand new Syncro 16 shocks and an 8mm spacer tube under the bump stop to help with the longer springs. So far no topping out even driving at road humps at speed.

At the back I've fitted a new pair of rear springs and a new pair of Syncro 16 rear shocks along with a few mods. I've made up some brackets to extend the standard syncro 16 rear arm shocker mount up by 85mm. This allows the rear arm to drop down a lot lower, but as the 16 has longer travel (bigger diameter) rear CV joints, they don't go into bind. The choice of how much to extend was made by allowing the driveshaft to get within 2mm of the rear arm housing and no more. I've also fitted 30mm spacers above the rear springs.

Here's a few pics of it fully loaded with a California interior, pop-top roof including the top section of the donor van.. so fairly heavy!

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Oh thanks to Stu at Dub Dub Campers for his generous hospitality (wonderful cooking from the wife ) and for his help loading a roof onto the 16! Also thanks to Stan for the loan of his roof rack.. very useful!

Note, just weighed Limey and he's a real heavyweight at 1930KG!!

Once the roof is on, he'll be over 2 Tons!! I need bigger brakes.

MG
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Last edited by SyncroGhia on Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:36 am; edited 2 times in total
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

syncrosimon wrote:
Wow Shocked Mike, that is a great deal easier to read through. Respect Cool

Simon.

God I love these build threads.


I'm drinking tea like it's going out of fashion doing this! Laughing

and I think my eyes have gone square... Shocked

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I think the roof is going to have to wait until after the Devon weekend as I don't to risk not having Limey running then.

Having a look around under the van (getting ready to make bash-bars) I noticed this.

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It seems that the South African engine mount bar wasn't designed for modern oil fillter electric engine mounts! The TDi engine mounts on this engine have heaters to warm up the oil when the engine is cold to soak up more of the roughness and then once the engine is warm, they cool off again making the engine mounts harder. This would explain some of the noise I've been experiencing under hard acceleration.

Ok onto bash-bar making.

I took an old set of rusty/holey petrol (1.9 as no provision for covering oil filter) bash-bars and modified them to fit around the TDi engine.

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I'm using the rear cross member on the van as the mounting point and they will also tie into the engine bar (bolt to) so that there is plenty of strength.

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The original box section tube used by VW is 30x40mm which wasn't available from my loacl metal merchant so I bought 3 meters of 20x40mm, 3 meters of 30x30mm and 3 meters of 40x5mm flat plate. Total cost, £22.50 Smile

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Once I had the basic structure worked out, I added triangulation bracing for strength and then used the 40x5mm flat plate in 2 lengths to run underneath the whole length of both bars taking care of the holey section, adding strength to the smaller box section (40x20) and giving the underneath a constant smooth surface for rocks etc to slide along rather than getting stuck on sections.

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I have a few things to finish off. I want to add some flat plate under the gearbox where my oil temp sensor is otherwise it'll ripped off the first time I go offroading! Also I want to add some flat plate under the sump at the back again to protect it as this is where most of the 'bashing' will take place.

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Lastly I have to make 2 small brackets to weld to the engine bar so I can bolt the bash-bars up to it.

Oh, you can see the cup for the 3rd engine mount at the back of the bash bars. This will make a big difference to how much the engine and gearbox move and take some of the stress off the gearbox case under hard acceleration.

Once I've finished welding, it'll get powder coated black Smile

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few updates on Limey.

Firstly, I have 2 working difflocks including indicator lights! The faults were a dead switch (rear difflock) and leaking hoses all over the place. Oh and somebody had kindly chopped the rear difflock indicator wire and then hidden the wires up above the petrol tank.

I've made and welded on the bracket for the Bashbars to bolt up to and drilled 2 more holes in the rear cross member and fitted rivnuts so it's all bolted up securely. I just need some 4mm plate metal to fill in gaps under the sump and gearbox and then paint!

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Not exactly extreme offroading but it proves that the difflocks work Wink

It also demonstrates how much wheel drop I have gained by extending the mounting points for the rear shocks.

The other thing I've done it finally painted the rear bumper. It makes such a difference to the van not having rusty bumpers.

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Oh, I couldn't resist putting the sticker on. I've been waiting ages to do this Laughing

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Thanks to V-lux for the stickers. They're great!

Lastly but definately not least. Andy (my house mate) asked me about fitting oil cooler a while ago. I replied, "fit an oil temp setup first so you know how hot it's getting." So he did.

Having read the posts about the accuracy of the oil temp gauges, we did the acid test and poored boiling water over the sensor. His setup is accurate.. mine isn't Sad
Mine was reading 55o as we poored freshly boiled water over the sensor. Bugger!!

This means that my oil temp is a lot higher than I had thought (we tried Andy's sensor on my van and this got to 90o which is damn sight closer) and I'm going to need an oil cooler on Limey aswell.

Fun fun fun.

Time to start rigging up oil coolers, oil lines, take off plates....

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update from today,

I bought some 3mm plate metal from Carr Mills in Leeds (Fabricators). They kindly supplied and cut it to the sizes I needed for the princely sum of £12! bargain Smile

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I offered them up to the bashbars and welded them in. I gave the front one a slight bend to allow rocks to slide off it rather than get caught.

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If this looks heavy, it's 1 KG less than standard Syncro TD bashbars but at 20KG, it's still fair amount. The petrol ones weigh under 10KG in comparrison.

Bolted up in position, I think I can be happy that the engine and gearbox are properly protected now.

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With the bashbars housing the 3rd engine mount, it's a bit of rigmarole removing it. You have to remove the 3rd engine mount from the engine (just 3 M10 bolts) and then drop the bashbars off. As the only access to one of the bolts is from underneath, I've drilled an access hole in order to get a 3/8 extension through to undo the bolt.

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Oh you may notice the M10 bolt head ticking down from the bars. This will be replaced by a countersunk M10 allen bolt and the bars machined to suit so there's nothing for rocks etc to get caught on.

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The last thing today is that my front CV guard brackets turned up from Germany. Now I have to find some nice thick rubber matting, have them powder coated and fit them to protect the (stupidly expensive) front CV joints.

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MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok there are a few updates so here goes...

As I'm booked in for some fun on the Devon Offroading weekend with CJ, I've been working hard to get Limey ready. I'm spending the next week in Cardiff with my new young lady so this weekend is make or break!

My mud terrain tyres are ex-army-type Goodyear Hi-grip 7.5/16's which make more noise than any tyre I've ever heard on the planet! They're probably older than me but they have tubes (which are new) and grip, and best of all, they were mega cheap!

The wheels I have for them were rusty... really rusty but again, they were cheap (thanks for BigBlueBus Andy!). So I've been attacking them with a wire brush and then getting friendly with the silver rattle cans. No I can't afford to have them powder coated, more of why in a minute.

Start with one of six very rusty wheels...

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They're all pitted to hell but still round and look much better like this than left to rust.

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I realised that I haven't posted any pics of the interior since I've install some of it so...

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I've only install the main units, the rest of it will go in once I've done the roof. I just want to be able to camp in it atm.

Oh, here's a sneak peak at SyncroStans new bus. It's very very clean and I've just spent a week working on it. I believe he'll be putting a post together soon on it once he's managed to get his computer working again.

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Ok, onto the fun stuff!

Every now and again something comes along which you just can't say no to.. this happened to me last week and when I should've said 'no' I said yes and threw in a bid at the last minute and won!
Well it arrived this morning fresh at 8:30am from ParcelForce.

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Can ya tell what it is yet....?

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Yup it's a spare wheel carrier from Syncro Pete of Syncro Engineering

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I realised that I had won the auction on ebay, I started to think about what else I'd want from a spare wheel carrier.

Converting Limey into a Westy has made me realise that just as I put him on the road and made him useful for work aswell as everything else, I've just made him not so useful by putting a very expensive interior in which I don't want to spoil. I can't throw a trolley jack in along with ramps etc etc and I don't have space for a spare wheel.. a high lift jack etc etc so...

Pete? would you mind adding a few bits onto my wheel carrier for me please? No probs Smile

Cool so I had Pete add the 2 extra sections of tube with plugs of solid 20mm deep steel in the ends.

Also I decided to have it on the left hand side as I've already got the wardrobe in the way of my vision so...

More pics of bits

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Lots of packages! It's well packed this wheel carrier!

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Lots of shiney bits Very Happy . Pete didn't have time to assemble this wheel carrier as I was bugging him to get it to me pronto as I didn't have much time to fit it.

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Ok onto the first 2 holes drilled. Limey has a few er... dents... ok Craters! and it took a while to get the first bracket to line up.. ok it took a while to get the van to line up to the straight bracket. If your van is straight here, you won't have this problem!

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Each bracket has it's own captive nut strengthener bracket which is designed to fit perfectly up behind the corner of the van (when your van is straight!).

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Just so you know how tough the hardware for this carrier is, I used the insert to pull the bodywork into shape enough to get the bracket in. You can see that the inner panel on the back of Limey has been kinked slightly. It's gonna be run straightening this out when he gets painted.

The lower bracket is pretty much the same proceedure except it has an extra brace which bolts onto the inner panel in front of the rear light. No pic as I forgot.. sorry!

With the top and bottom hinge brackets on, the hinge bolts can be fitted with spacers above and below.

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I've fitted the clasp bracket here. It's literally drill 4 holes and bolt it on. Obviously do this once you have the wheel carrier on, lined up (you can adjust the lower hinge point on the carrier). I've had to leave one bolt out as my main inlet pipe runs directly behind the panel here. I might try to move things later to get this last bolt in.

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The wheel fit easily and is held in place with 3 nuts and washers. It's long way up to lug these wheels!

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And here is the finished product shut and clamped tight.

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Not quite...

Now for those additions. I drilled and tapped the ends for M10x1.5.

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Then I worked out where would be the best place for my highlift jack to fit and made up brackets to suit. This took most of the afternoon, trying out, measuring, cutting, dilling etc etc

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I've used T3 Syncro front hub studs pressed into the brackets to go through the jack.

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I'm using spacer tubes when I bolt up the jack but I've left them out in the pics so you can see what's there.

With the jack bolting on this way around, you have to open the wheel carrier to access the jack. I'll be adding a lock to the frame asap so that nothing can be stolen!

There is still plenty of room between the highlight jack and the door.

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Please excuse the argricultural look of the brackets, I was making them in a rush and they're rough. They'll do for the moment until I have more time to make some nicer ones.

With a bit of Black Hammerite, they don't look too bad.

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I have to buy a wheel cover and a vinyl number plate to go with it as the jack covers up the first part. I'll only be carrying the jack when I'm on muds so it won't be all the time.

I must say I'm very impressed with the Wheel Carrier and a big thanks and thumbs up to Pete and Syncro engineering for being so quick and being happy to modify to my specifications.

There are a few things I'd change which Pete already knows of.

These are replacing the nuts which hold the wheel on with 19mm head nuts so you only need to carry one size socket (a change of the stud from M14x1.75 to M14x1.5 would be enough to let everyone use stock T3 wheel nuts.

The other is moving the clasp bracket slightly further over so that you can open the engine access flap without the number plate catching it. It's my understanding that the frame I have fitted is designed to accomodate the larger Syncro 16 wheels and huge tyres. On previous frames with tyres this size, the tyre tends to stick out from the van a little. I guess you gain in one way and lose in another.

Maybe Pete will offer both sizes for those running 215/75/15s and smaller and then a large one for the 16 crowd.

Syncro Engineering are selling these wheel carriers right now so if you like the look of them, get on the blower to Pete and order one! He makes wheel carriers for both sides so you can carry your 2 spares if you wish. I think he's working on a jerry can holder aswell. Maybe he'll use my idea for the highlift jack

:Added note here, my rear 1/4 panel is now cracking around the hinges so beware of this if you're looking at buying one. When I replace the panel (when the van is painted, I'll be making up some fairly serious re-inforcing pieces which fit better than the ones which came with the kit.

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small update, today has been pull all the interior out, put the main westy wiring loom in, cut lots of holes in the side of the van and fit the water filling cap, 240v electrics hookup and the fridge gas exhaust.

The fridge now works on 12V as does the little panel which switches and tells you what's what with water level, battery voltage etc and the water pump works but I need a new tap!

Gas, haven't connected anything up as I don't have a tank. After thinking about it today, I'm going to fit an external hook up so I can have the gas bottle sitting outside the van and just use it when we're stopped. The gas bottle will be carried inside when we're on the move.

MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow what a week.

The drive down to Cardiff via RJES in Cheadle was noisey to say the least. Once there lots of bits were swapped (collecting an RJES kit for the panel van) and then on again.

These tyres are horrible to drive on. The worst noise is at about 32mph, they're a bit quieter at 60mph but not much!

Tuesday morning saw Limey towing and for the first time I knew what the oil temp was actually doing.

I headed off to Cilgerran to collect a Horsebox. This thing weighs a ton without the horse!

The oil temp on the journey back didn't go below 110oC and hit 120oC about 3 times. I need an oil cooler!

The next day I wanted to check out what tyre pressures would help for my offroading in Devon so after speaking to the owner of the stables where a friends horse is kept, I ventured out to the next farm along and asked if I was ok to use his 4X4 run to test a few things. He said no probs but don't get stuck as he didn't want to have to pull me out. Ok no probs, I didn't want to try anything silly, just try a few up and downs to check how the tyres did.

I drove through a cuople of fields onto the 4X4 course only to find it was very boggy after a days rain (the previous day) and the mud was more clay than mud. Hmmm, I could get stuck very easily here so will need to be careful. Wellies were donned and I walked around a bit looking for easy routes in and out inbetween the trees. There weren't many. I figured that they're been playing with tractors or monster trucks in there it was so deep and cut up.

I ventured into the woods on a seemingley easy route. Everything was fine until just at the end where it met up with a more used and boggy route. As I inched forwards, the front wheels sunk. The front bumper was on the floor and I wasn't go anywhere. Bugger!

I engaged both difflocks and proceeded to try to get back onto the harder ground. No chance... in fact the back end slid sideways into a large rut bottoming the back of the van out and as the front was now buried, I had to bail out and walk away for help. Not what I had planned at all.

Here's how I left it.

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Now it was already on a lean and I stopped as it was getting worse and I didn't want to risk rolling it. Better to be pulled out safely than make it impossible to be recovered.

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Well I wasn't prepared for what happened next. Rob backed up his tractor to the van and we hitched up thinking it would pull it up and out if he pulled it diagonally across. Nope!!

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I was in it when we stopped at this point!

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Ok so now it's gone beyond the verge of going over and is only being held up by the strap connecting it to the tractor so Rob can't move either. He was spinning all 4 wheels just pulling me this far.

Rob phoned the farm and got one of his guys to bring the Manitou along to help out.

That turned up 5 mins later and proceeded to get stuck about 5 times itself before managing to get to the front of the van. Thankfully Manitou's can push themselves out with their forks if they get stuck! This playground was way way to big for Syncros!

Once we got organised, I hitched up a strap to the front of Limey and we proceeded to lift the front up in the air and while pushing it backwards, Rob pulled it with the Tractor until all 4 wheels were back on solid ground.

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The whole thing took about 2 hours and please don't do what I did and go offroading on your own. Only professional muppets do this Wink
Oh please excuse the pics as I only had my mobile on me when all this happened.

MG
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Last edited by SyncroGhia on Sun Apr 04, 2010 3:54 pm; edited 3 times in total
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A good couple of days on Limey.
Power steering has been fitted, wow what a difference!
A couple of 2nd hand bumper cap ends and a horn (now mounted further up out of the way) were fitted.
I've managed to salvage the O/S mirror which was snapped off when in Devon. I made a new (hollow) spindle and drilled and tapped the mirror for it.
Took the bashbars off and straightened the sump plate out. After being dragged backwards out of the swap above, it had been touching when accelerating. I've 'persuaded' it and then added another bracing piece to help with future bashings.
I just need some good offroad tyres now! Hmmm anyone got some cheap 7.50/16s?

I've not had any errors since fitting the proper switches on home made copies of the cruise control brackets.
Yes the timing makes quite a difference. Smoother power delivery. My timing (done by ear) was way too far retarded and it's amazing how difficult it is to get it in the right position...!

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small update on niggling things

I almost lost the exhaust a while ago. Luckily I noticed it was moving around a bit more than normal and removed it to find it had cracked almost all the way around where the pipe is welded to the flange. I had been expecting it as it's had no support and isn't light.

A quick weld up was all I had time to do at the time as I was off down to Devon shortly after.

As I took the bash bars off again today to modify them (yet again!), I took the oppertunity to look at making a support which clamped around the silencer.

I used some old 3mm thick plate I had lying around.. (hence it's rusty state!) and bent it around the silencer, put a bend in each end along with a hole to form a clamp and then another piece with a twist in it to bolt onto the engine block as the exhaust moves with the engine.

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When I was away I managed to bend the bash plate up a little after my 'mis-hap' and the sump has been almost sitting on it. To be honest I think it has been touching since I fitted the final sump plate so I alleviated it a little with a large hammer to give a little more room! I have added a strengthening piece above so it can't move back up.

[IMG]http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv264/performanceghia/Limey056.jpg" height="600" width="800[/IMG]

Once I had done this, it became obvious that the engine moves more than I was expecting and the crank pulley began to run against the rear horizontal bar just below it.

I took the bars off and modified that piece so that there's enough room for the engine to drop down on acceleration. At the moment, it doesn't feel (or look) like it's touching anywhere else.

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I also countersunk the hole for the bolt which goes through from the bash bars to the engine mount bar in preparation for an M10 countersunk allen bolt so there is nothing underneath to catch on rocks etc.

Once I'm happy that the bashbars and exhaust clamp are doing their job and don't need more modifying, I'll have them powder coated. They're rusting slowly Laughing

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Limey has changed a little.

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Due to the move on saturday, I've fitted the roof temporarily to the original tin-top roof of the van. It's fitted properly with the right size hole, supports for the uprights etc and the canvas is all tight etc. The only difference will be that I can't use the upper bed at present along with the rear cupboard and shelves which fix up to the roof frame. Atleast I can stand up, cook and have somewhere to throw all the junk .

The wheels make a big difference to the van, not sure if I like them yet but they're growing on me. They help keep the unspring weight down and I've moved them out about 10mm further front and rear so the track is wider and that's noticable with stability etc.

MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small update,

I've made some adaptors out of some square tubing, T3 wheel nuts and the original M14x1.75 nuts which came on the spare wheel carrier in order to bolt on the spare alloy but to face out rather than in as the centre spigot on the wheel carrier was too big in diameter for my Audi wheel. Then I've used stock Audi wheel bolts (inc locking) to bolt it up.

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Also I paid a visit to the local recycling centre to borrow their weighing scales and with 3/4 tank of diesel and 1/2 tank of water it comes in at 2200KG (4850lbs). I guess I've managed to save some weight with the wheels but added some with the roof.

MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few little updates after Van Fest (had a great time!)

I picked up my Grey Padded dashboard from Steve of Eastfalia and set about fitting it yesterday. I took my time over it and even with the extra wiring for the guages, I had it back together in a couple of hours. It looks very scary when you take the dash out with everything hanging all over the place but it's not that bad to do.

The difference inside the van is huge. It really lightens up the inside of the cabin. I just need to get the glovebox in (will happen tomorrow) and then get the carpets in (not gonna happen for a while).

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Also I swapped the front section of the roof with Flightpath as he wanted the Aero type to go around his sunroof. I got the earlier style and fitted it properly today with the brackets.

It's a slightly different colour and whoever removed it cut the heads of the bolts off with an angle grinder and left some 'orrible cuts in the fibreglass. Ho-hum. It'll all get filled and painted when the van is done.

Alteast I now have a usable luggage rack on the front

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My bargain from Van Fest has to be the Westy original Heat Screen which goes around the roof (when it's up). The originals are held in place by press studs and fit perfectly. At £40 I couldn't say no!

MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have just fitted the press studs to the roof for the westy heat screen.

Fits well but I'm not sure how the ringlets on the bottom corners are supposed to be fixed to the body. I've seen people use bungie cord but it pulls the screen about and out of place.

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MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small update on things on Limey.

I've been working for a Porsche specialist down south for the last 5 weeks (on trial!) and have been camping in Limey (yes it's very cold!) during the week and then driving (140 miles!) back to Cardiff each weekend. As such I've had a real taste of just what it's like living in a Westy!

There are one or two things I'm still trying to get fitted and working like the cruise control (may have to run yet more wires front to rear!) and a heating system for inside the van. So far I've been using a fan heater to keep myself warm and that's worked well. Over the last 2 weeks I've not put the roof up just to keep the temp up in the van. Even with the original westfalia canvas heat screen, a lot of heat gets lost through the roof when it's up.

I've fitted the front to rear pieces in the roof, the NS one doubles as a shelf, light units and curtain rails and the OS one does just lights and curtain rails. Again everything makes a big difference when you're camping and to have proper light in the van makes it a lot more livable in. I had be surviving on a courtesy light and a hand lamp.

The one thing I really miss in the van is an oven/microwave. You can live without a lot of space, not buying to much food and not large packets of stuff but not being able to cook a pizza, or a lasagne gets to you after a bit. I'm still looking into where this could live in the van.

The chargecooler system is on it's 2nd water pump, the airflow meter seized up (water ingress I think) and the propshaft has a slight vibration so I have some new U-J's and will get it balanced.

It still needs bigger brakes which are on their way (330mm with Porsche 4 pot calipers) and I'm collecting parts for tuning the engine.

I've fitted a set of AEL (140bhp version of my engine) ECU chips and a set of .230 nozzles. I did this in 2 stages and found that with just the chips and original nozzles, I lost power but with the nozzles the power is up a lot. For the first time I've had wheel spin on take off even though I was rolling already...

The last thing which has happened is a great deal which is due in part to Aidan so a huge thankyou to you Aidan .. I've managed to get a decoupler . I swapped a set of 5.83's for a decoupler and billet shaft. I've just fitted the nosecone with actuator and I'll be fitting the controls and vacuum pipes asap. The decoupler wiring to the dash was there as it should be and is now plugged in.

The difference in running 2WD to 4WD is quite noticable. MPG and acceleration have marked differences although I think that the differences are more noticable running a TDi. Having run the Tristar with and without the propshaft a lot when I was tuning the engine, there was very little if any difference in performance.

The other big difference is noise. I've always been fairly unimpressed with how much vibrational noise is transmitted through the body. When I first got Limey up and running, there was very little of this vibration transmitted through the body and it was only when I fitted the front diff, propshaft and front driveshafts that it came to light. I remember it from the previous Syncro (poshbuggers Doka) and it was a lot worse in that vehicle I think due to it being a Doka and the way I had the chargecooler fitted on that setup. I thought that it was because of the phsyical connection between the gearbox and front diff through the propshaft that the noise was being transmitted but now having the ability to disconnect the drive without taking the propshaft off... it's all gone!! The noise is only apparent when the 4WD is being used. I can only put this down to the torque being past through the 4WD system. Either way, I can now travel in a quieter (ok not that much quieter!) vehicle going faster on accleration and gaining MPG in the process.

MG
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small update,
I've fitted the decoupler control switch and the feed pipe for engaging the decoupler (so it runs in 4WD). I found that I needed 3.5 meters to sit the pipe neatly against the rest with enough to allow everything to sit nicely without stretching anything. Aidan will be supplying me with a 4 meter length of yellow vacuum pipe to finish the job off.

Small update,
I've fitted the decoupler control switch and the feed pipe for engaging the decoupler (so it runs in 4WD). I found that I needed 3.5 meters to sit the pipe neatly against the rest with enough to allow everything to sit nicely without stretching anything. Aidan will be supplying me with a 4 meter length of yellow vacuum pipe to finish the job off.

Running update,

OSF inner CV joint is dead and clicking badly. I've got a couple of Porsche 944 CV joints on their way and will replace both asap.

With the nozzles and chips, it's going really well but is only returning about 27-28mpg so until I get to the rolling road, I'll be putting it back to stock nozzles and chips.

I've replaced and re-routed the wastegate pipe as it was rubbing through on the silencer mount and neated a few pipes around the engine bay.

I'm making a list of the little things which aren't working... so far it includes:

Drivers mirror heater doesn't work (wiring)
Passenger mirror only adjusts in and out, not up and down (wiring)
Fit remaining curtains and fittings, inc front cab curtain
Fit battery charger so batteries are charged when plugged into 240V
Rewire leisure battery so everything runs off that for camping
More I can't remember atm!

MG
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