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pullback Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2010 Posts: 18 Location: Apple Valley
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Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 8:49 pm Post subject: Replacing chrome moldings on shaved body |
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Has anyone used two sided tape to remount chrome moldings back on after having body shaved? I'm having rag top painted and dont want to re-drill holes. |
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Gratsoy Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2009 Posts: 316 Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 8:52 pm Post subject: |
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If you are having the whole thing repainted then just re-drill the wholes. I know thats not the answer you are looking for but it would be best to have the chrome properly installed then to have them fall off when driving down the highway. |
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Shadd Samba Member
Joined: January 18, 2007 Posts: 883 Location: Lancaster, Ohio
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Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 9:10 pm Post subject: |
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I'm interested in this as well. It is a project that I will be tackling on my 61 soon. |
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drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:29 am Post subject: |
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The problem is there isn't enough surface on the back of the trim for the tape to keep a grip.
Moldings that are taped on have a flat surface, the VW trim is open in the back for the mounting clips.
I don't think it would stay in place very well.
You could go with another type of molding, but that wouldn't give you the stock look if thats what you are after.
Redrilling the holes is a problem. If they were welded up, the weld is always much harder then the surrounding metal. It's also really difficult to drill all those holes in the right place if you are trying to open the old holes.
You may be better off if you tape off the area and carefully mark out where the trim goes. Then simply drill new holes while staying off of the welded original holes.
Just be aware, you really have to have the holes in the right line, or the trim won't fit back on right. You don't want it looking all wavey! _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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Joey Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2005 Posts: 5364 Location: Nova Scotia - Canada
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Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:24 am Post subject: |
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I had to re drill the holes on my '56 to mount the chrome trim. The holes were only filled with body fill. I measured the holes on my '65 and they were spot on with the '56. Only problem was with the body fill being a bit too thick around some of the holes so I had to modify some of the trim clips. For the front trunk lid and front quarter panels I used nylon license plate fasteners
to hold the trim on. The head of the fastener fit perfectly inside the chrome trim. I also used a small o-ring to make it water tight. Too bad I couldn't get at the rest of the holes from the inside of the car to do the rest as it worked so well. _________________ Joey
‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle |
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drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 11:00 am Post subject: |
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Why couldn't you get to the rest of the clip holes from inside? Just about all of them are accessable if you take off the door panels and quarter panels. _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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Mr. Unpopular Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2005 Posts: 3715 Location: Tampa Florida
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Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 11:01 am Post subject: |
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Why do you even need to drill the holes in the factory location? Those little clips slide in the trim you know. _________________ "In any racing engine, the nearer you are to it disintegrating, the better it's performance will be"
-Keith Duckworth, creator of the Ford/Cosworth DFV |
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Gratsoy Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2009 Posts: 316 Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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Heck, You could paint the trim on too! |
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Joey Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2005 Posts: 5364 Location: Nova Scotia - Canada
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Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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drscope wrote: |
Why couldn't you get to the rest of the clip holes from inside? Just about all of them are accessable if you take off the door panels and quarter panels. |
I actually put some in the doors but cut and scratched my hands all to hell doing so... good thing the car's red. _________________ Joey
‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle |
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drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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Florida_Buggy wrote: |
Why do you even need to drill the holes in the factory location? Those little clips slide in the trim you know. |
What I was referring to as factory location is the height of the clip hole off the ground, not end to end on the moulding.
Yep, you can drill new holes anywhere you want along the trim line. _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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pullback Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2010 Posts: 18 Location: Apple Valley
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Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:17 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks guys for all of the responses. I'm going to try it out with my old moldings on a test door. I'll let you know how it comes out. |
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crvc Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308
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Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:31 am Post subject: |
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Can someone tell me what "shaving the body" means? Other vehicles have stick-on moldings. I thought about filling the stock moldings with bondo just so I'd have a solid surface for glue or double-sided tape. I only considered it because I damaged some of the moldings trying to press them into the holders.
Instead I ordered stainless steel moldings and that solved the problem. They popped in with no bowing or bending or finger indents.
crvc |
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drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 2:41 pm Post subject: |
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crvc wrote: |
Can someone tell me what "shaving the body" means? Other vehicles have stick-on moldings. I thought about filling the stock moldings with bondo just so I'd have a solid surface for glue or double-sided tape. I only considered it because I damaged some of the moldings trying to press them into the holders.
Instead I ordered stainless steel moldings and that solved the problem. They popped in with no bowing or bending or finger indents.
crvc |
Shaving the body refers to taking off the moldings and filling in the holes so there is no indication it ever had any. This is sometimes also done with door, hood and trunk handles.
The easy way to install new trim is to first slide the clips onto the trim. Then after your witch's hats are in the trim holes, line up the trim and the clips and carefully push.
You should be able to do this without bending the moulding. _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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crvc Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308
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Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks but I tried that with lots of lubricants. All it did was make a mess and scratch the paint. The stainless steel trim pieces will probably outlast the car. Cost around $50.
crvc |
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drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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What year is your car? The 66 and older trim is EASY to install.
Sometimes the 67 and up stuff that goes onto the plastic clips can be a pain, but it's not that bad! _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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crvc Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2004 Posts: 1308
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Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:55 am Post subject: |
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The car is a 1967 bug. The PO replaced the front hood with one from an older model. It still had the chrome strip. I liked the look of the wider trim. So I drilled out all the holes to accomodate the wider trim. Actually I didn't need to do many. The bug was an early 1967. It had many 1966 features like the smaller flywheel and only 8 fuses. The car had some large holes for wider trim next to smaller holes for thinner 1967 trim. The wider holes had been filled with bondo.
Maybe it was my technique but I couldn't get the replacement trim pieces to fit without damaging them. The stainless steel versions went in easily.
crvc |
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Bugg13 Samba Member
Joined: January 12, 2010 Posts: 5 Location: Bay Area
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Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:05 am Post subject: |
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I would think you could probably glue some small, high strength magnets to the underside of the trim and just stick them on the car. |
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 33883 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:14 am Post subject: |
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crvc wrote: |
The car is a 1967 bug. The bug was an early 1967. It had many 1966 features like the smaller flywheel and only 8 fuses. |
Or maybe a Euro model, which kept many of the '66 parts through '67. |
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crowe66 Samba Member
Joined: July 26, 2006 Posts: 729 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 7:00 am Post subject: |
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i need to redrill my holes. what is the hole size?? _________________ 65 Beetle
Berrien Nostalgia Buggy - 67 chassis |
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VOLKSWAGNUT Fastest VW Belt Changer
Joined: October 14, 2007 Posts: 11053 Location: Flippin' a Belt........ .... Off-n-On ... NC USA
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:12 am Post subject: |
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drscope wrote: |
The problem is there isn't enough surface on the back of the trim for the tape to keep a grip.
Moldings that are taped on have a flat surface, the VW trim is open in the back for the mounting clips. |
True,
If you dont want to drill, you can ad small aluminum tabs to the trim. Slide the tabs in like clips then use double side tape to secure to the body. _________________ aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited |
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