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Replacing chrome moldings on shaved body
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pullback
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 8:49 pm    Post subject: Replacing chrome moldings on shaved body Reply with quote

Has anyone used two sided tape to remount chrome moldings back on after having body shaved? I'm having rag top painted and dont want to re-drill holes.
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Gratsoy
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are having the whole thing repainted then just re-drill the wholes. I know thats not the answer you are looking for but it would be best to have the chrome properly installed then to have them fall off when driving down the highway.
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Shadd
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm interested in this as well. It is a project that I will be tackling on my 61 soon.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem is there isn't enough surface on the back of the trim for the tape to keep a grip.

Moldings that are taped on have a flat surface, the VW trim is open in the back for the mounting clips.

I don't think it would stay in place very well.

You could go with another type of molding, but that wouldn't give you the stock look if thats what you are after.

Redrilling the holes is a problem. If they were welded up, the weld is always much harder then the surrounding metal. It's also really difficult to drill all those holes in the right place if you are trying to open the old holes.

You may be better off if you tape off the area and carefully mark out where the trim goes. Then simply drill new holes while staying off of the welded original holes.

Just be aware, you really have to have the holes in the right line, or the trim won't fit back on right. You don't want it looking all wavey!
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had to re drill the holes on my '56 to mount the chrome trim. The holes were only filled with body fill. I measured the holes on my '65 and they were spot on with the '56. Only problem was with the body fill being a bit too thick around some of the holes so I had to modify some of the trim clips. For the front trunk lid and front quarter panels I used nylon license plate fasteners

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to hold the trim on. The head of the fastener fit perfectly inside the chrome trim. I also used a small o-ring to make it water tight. Too bad I couldn't get at the rest of the holes from the inside of the car to do the rest as it worked so well.
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drscope
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why couldn't you get to the rest of the clip holes from inside? Just about all of them are accessable if you take off the door panels and quarter panels.
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Mr. Unpopular
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why do you even need to drill the holes in the factory location? Those little clips slide in the trim you know.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heck, You could paint the trim on too! Laughing
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
Why couldn't you get to the rest of the clip holes from inside? Just about all of them are accessable if you take off the door panels and quarter panels.


I actually put some in the doors but cut and scratched my hands all to hell doing so... good thing the car's red. Razz
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drscope
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Florida_Buggy wrote:
Why do you even need to drill the holes in the factory location? Those little clips slide in the trim you know.


What I was referring to as factory location is the height of the clip hole off the ground, not end to end on the moulding.

Yep, you can drill new holes anywhere you want along the trim line.
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pullback
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys for all of the responses. I'm going to try it out with my old moldings on a test door. I'll let you know how it comes out.
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crvc
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can someone tell me what "shaving the body" means? Other vehicles have stick-on moldings. I thought about filling the stock moldings with bondo just so I'd have a solid surface for glue or double-sided tape. I only considered it because I damaged some of the moldings trying to press them into the holders.

Instead I ordered stainless steel moldings and that solved the problem. They popped in with no bowing or bending or finger indents.

crvc
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crvc wrote:
Can someone tell me what "shaving the body" means? Other vehicles have stick-on moldings. I thought about filling the stock moldings with bondo just so I'd have a solid surface for glue or double-sided tape. I only considered it because I damaged some of the moldings trying to press them into the holders.

Instead I ordered stainless steel moldings and that solved the problem. They popped in with no bowing or bending or finger indents.

crvc


Shaving the body refers to taking off the moldings and filling in the holes so there is no indication it ever had any. This is sometimes also done with door, hood and trunk handles.

The easy way to install new trim is to first slide the clips onto the trim. Then after your witch's hats are in the trim holes, line up the trim and the clips and carefully push.

You should be able to do this without bending the moulding.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks but I tried that with lots of lubricants. All it did was make a mess and scratch the paint. The stainless steel trim pieces will probably outlast the car. Cost around $50.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What year is your car? The 66 and older trim is EASY to install.

Sometimes the 67 and up stuff that goes onto the plastic clips can be a pain, but it's not that bad!
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The car is a 1967 bug. The PO replaced the front hood with one from an older model. It still had the chrome strip. I liked the look of the wider trim. So I drilled out all the holes to accomodate the wider trim. Actually I didn't need to do many. The bug was an early 1967. It had many 1966 features like the smaller flywheel and only 8 fuses. The car had some large holes for wider trim next to smaller holes for thinner 1967 trim. The wider holes had been filled with bondo.

Maybe it was my technique but I couldn't get the replacement trim pieces to fit without damaging them. The stainless steel versions went in easily.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would think you could probably glue some small, high strength magnets to the underside of the trim and just stick them on the car.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

crvc wrote:
The car is a 1967 bug. The bug was an early 1967. It had many 1966 features like the smaller flywheel and only 8 fuses.


Or maybe a Euro model, which kept many of the '66 parts through '67.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i need to redrill my holes. what is the hole size??
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
The problem is there isn't enough surface on the back of the trim for the tape to keep a grip.

Moldings that are taped on have a flat surface, the VW trim is open in the back for the mounting clips.


True,

If you dont want to drill, you can ad small aluminum tabs to the trim. Slide the tabs in like clips then use double side tape to secure to the body.
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