Power Window Motor Rebuild: How to

[Sodo]

You might consider drilling a little hole near the worm gear (opposite side of this pic is accessible) and pumping lithium grease in there. Search for an item on Amazon called "needle greaser". I have an item called "Plews 05-042 Needle Tip Adapter" and there are hypodermic style too. You can drill a little hole like 5/64". The Plews will seal up and pump pressure thru a 5/64 hole. Then cover it with tape or a dab of silicone.

Also you can lube almost the whole cable by greasing the part that's out in the open (behind the vertical trolley) and running the window up and down. That's 20 minutes per door. I'd surely try that before devoting half or whole day to tearing it apart.

Maybe just take off the 3 bolts of the motor, just enough access to drill a tiny drain hole in the motor bottom (center of motor shaft) and give it a tiny pump of lithium too.
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[OHSWEETCHERRY]

Great thread. Was messing around with the W/H all day. Refurbished my window motors in the spring. My plastic guide at the bottom broke. Time to get in there again and work things out.

[mdrickers]

Great thread, everyone. This is so helpful beyond the Bentley book.
When mine crapped out:
I removed my motor and regulator from the door, disconnected the motor from the regulator....and a ton of white crust (prob calcification or something) fell from the enclosure. I spun the top of the motor around and loosened it up, opened and inspected the wheel house on the regulator, sprayed some white lithium grease in there, too. Put it back together to test it just before sending it to Stacy for repair (whom I highly recommend) so I tested it with the jumper cables and a couple of nails....fired right up. It squeaked for about 6 runs up and down but now works fine. Yes!

[Ed Wachter]

Thanks to all contributing to this thread. My local shop (in Seattle) determined that my electric motors (for both windows) are dying but they want $530 per window to provide & install re-built motors. So I'll attempt to remove the motors, disassemble and clean them and perhaps change the brushes.

Does anyone know if it's possible to get the motor out without removing the window guide tracks? I've unbolted the cable winder (I think this is called the wheelhouse) with the motor attached and it moves almost enough to access the motor bolts but not quite. Do I remove everything just t get that motor off?

Thanks
Ed

[Sodo]

This was a year ago,,,, but…..

I did driver and passenger side. If there was any way to get just the motor off without the tracks, nobody would remove the track on their other door. And this job would be an easy & common job.

As I wrote above you can drill a motor bearing case and squirt lithium grease in without removing even the motor (but maybe you have to un-bolt it).

Your motors may not be "dying" per se. Maybe they just need drain holes and grease. I think it would be very useful to the forum for some fella to figure that out. The Seattle shop should figure that out, it would be a great service to offer. You can't get to every bearing that needs grease, but you will reduce the friction SOME. And maybe just squirting some OIL in there is enough to free it up.

This CAN be done, but that said,,, probably very few are motivated enough to go thru this,,,, and for those folks, there are fellas like STACY, keeping our Vanagons on the road!

Drill here to get some lithium grease into that worm drive. Also drill a drain hole into the bearing cover at the far right of the pic and get some grease in there. That may be all you need, and it's worth a try, certainly better than $530x2.

Heres a pic of the bearing cover on the far end.

Get a needle greaser like this "http://amzn.com/B001VXS3ZO" (or search "Plews") you can drill a little hole (3/32 or 5/64" ?) and pump grease in.

_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[16CVs]

You should be able to remove the motor from the regulator as designed. What happens is that the motors "D" shaft seizes in the rubber isolator and the isolator has a bell on it to keep it in the wheel house. If it does not just come off , then pull the regulator and service the whole enchilada because honestly most regulators are ready to fail anyway.
If interested I can do your motors or send you rebuilt units.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[Ed Wachter]

I went ahead and removed the entire regulator assemble. I was hesitating because it seemed difficult. The photos from the original post (showing a lot of corrosion and apparent water intrusion) convinced me to take it all out and get a good look at everything. My situation appears to be better than what is shown in the photos. Now I just have to find a star sharped screw driver to get the motor apart.

Stacey - I'll get in touch if I need to have you re-build the motor(s).

Thank you,
Ed

[Zeitgeist 13]

Star-shaped = Torx drive

Every Vanagon owner needs Torx drives in their respective kits
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Ed Wachter]

Stacey - You were right; the shaft is seized in that rubber part. I've been flexing and massaging the rubber in an effort to free it from the shaft. (I removed the wheelhouse cover so I could see this). Do you have any other suggestions on how to gently free that? I'm afraid I'll tear the rubber is if I apply more force.

Does this rubber isolator act as a clutch so if someone's hand or arm is blocking the window travel it won't get crushed?

[16CVs]

I use a door panel tool in between the inside of the housing and the insulator after I douse it with a penetrate. I then pry between outside of thew wheel house and the motor with a screwdriver/ Pry bar to separate the two.
Yes the motor acts as a buffer /,but it also quiets it down in operation.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[vonkeswick]

This is amazing. THANK YOU!!! This walkthrough is perfect and exactly what I was looking for

[VicVan]

Hi,

Thanks a lot for this tutorial.
I managed to get the motor out, the upper bearing on the shaft as well.
However I can't get the rotor out of the casing. Looks like the plastic piece on top (yellow/brown) is stuck or glued in the casing.
How do I get this out of the casing ? I tried pulling really hard on the shaft, holding the casing firmly with the other hand, absolutely nothing moved...

Thanks
_________________
'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[16CVs]

I have rebuilt motors ready to go with an exchange. I ship quickly. Check my ads under "16cv's'



Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[VicVan]

Hi all,

So per this excellent tutorial I have serviced both front and passenger powe windows (dismantled the regulator, regreased, rewound properly ; same for the motor, works great on direct 12V)
The thing is, when I put the assembly back in place, it is sloooooow and noisy. By hand the regulator works fine, I think I've tried eveything...
What's left ? changing the brushes on the motor ?

Thanks for your insight

JB
_________________
'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[Sodo]

My motor was full of water, rusted stuck, truly attrocious - you saw the pics! I kinda can't even imagine why I tried - apparently was feeling hardheaded that day.

As I recall after putting back together they would go faster, slower etc for awhile and I worried about it but now they run "perfect". I suppose the brushes have to bed in? Run them up & down a lot, if it improves a little then that's probably it!
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[VicVan]

Hi Sodo,

Thanks for sharing your experience, it gives me hope ! I think they hadn't been used in two years before I touched them... So having them running again will smoothe some edges and it should get better in a few weeks.
Maybe I'll put some more lube on the wiring in a few days. And change the brushes ? Anybody know which type to order ?
_________________
'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[Tom Powell]

I've read through this post and the Bentley 64.6

I have two Vanagons. #1 had an engine fire and the fire department flooded the interior before going to the back and putting out the fire. I'll refer to this Vanagon as "The Hulk" or TH. I bought a replacement Vanagon and refer to this as "The Replacement" or TR.

The passenger power window in TR will not rise from the down position. I see the light in the switch and hear a click, but no motor sounds. The window in TH is in the up position with no battery and suspect wiring in the vehicle to move it. The Bentley has instructions involving moving the glass for access to remove screws for the regulator and then raising and wedging to remove the other screws.

This thread has instructions for removing the two screws that hold the horizontal guide which state they may be difficult to remove depending on the position of the window. It looks like I can remove them with judicious use of end wrenches. if I can get those out I will probably be able to remove the motor and cable assembly. if so I would like to bench test the motor from TH.

In TH I see large red and a large black wire going to the motor and connecting the switch with a white wire connecting to the red wire, and white wire with black tracer connecting to the black wire. There are three wires in another connector, but I cannot find anything for power windows in the wiring section of the Bentley.

Can I test the TH motor from a spare battery while it is still in the door? What determines whether the window will go up or down? How do I get the motor and cable assembly out of TR if the window is down and will not go up with the switch?

I've quit for the day and hopefully will have some answers in the morning.

Aloha
tp

[davideric9]

YES. You can run the motor with a spare battery while its still in the door. Disconnect the motor from the harness and apply power directly to the connector at the motor. Reversing the leads will change the direction of the motor (Window).
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia, stock (bought 1994)
1986 Syncro Westfalia SVX, 3 knob (bought 2008)
1987 Westfalia (bought 2010)
1988 Wolfsburg GL (bought 2012)

[16CVs]

The red and black wires are the window motor colors ,this is a reversing circuit + - moves it one way and - + moves it the other way. If you hit the switch while assembled and watch the dome light and it dims ,you most likely have a bad regulator. If you hit the switch and nothing happens then your motor is dead.
If the window is stuck in the up position you need to use a 10 mm wrench and go in from the bottom and remove the 2 bolts which hold the regulator to the window.
Once you have the assembly removed you can bench test it and see what is really wrong.
These are a reliable system, just look at how long they have lasted with no maintenance at all.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[Tom Powell]

Good news, good news, good news.

I was able to get the motors and cable assembly out from both sides of "The Hulk".

The passenger window was stuck in the up position and the motor wouldn't run, but I could get to the screws for the horizontal guide with my SnapOn flexible 10mm socket. Got everything out and bench tested the motor. It sparked at the connection with power applied, but no sounds or movement from the motor.

The driver window was down, but power from my tiny jump starter http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-...er+battery
ran the motor and raised the window so I could get the screws out of the horizontal channel and remove the motor and cable. The tiny jump starter was way easier to use than lugging around a spare battery for power.

I now have two assemblies, one with a working motor and maybe some broken plastic, the other with good plastic, but apparently a non working motor. Most likely I'll be sending everything to Stacy for his use.

The really good news:
I was concerned about removing the motor and assembly from "The Replacement" because the window was in the down position and wouldn't move with the switch or make sounds at the motor. I removed the switch from the panel and disconnected it from the motor. I used the tiny jump starter to test the motor in situ and the motor ran and the window went up. I exercised the connector and used the DeOxit products to clean and enhance the connection and now the window works like OG.

I'm happy.
Aloha
tp