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Oil galley plugs & case cleaning
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Bart Dunn
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 5:27 pm    Post subject: Oil galley plugs & case cleaning Reply with quote

What's the common practice when building a 36hp engine--do experienced builders pull out the galley plugs and clean the case that way? If so, any links to threads showing this process, and any sources for galley plugs that fit the 36hp case, or are they the same as later cases? Thanks much, in advance.
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58Dub
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did mine....pretty easy, but you need to be careful with the one near the oil pressure relief valve.
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I believe the main galleys were 1\4 - 18 NPT
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Bart Dunn
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, I can't really find a good reference, so let's make one. Here's my '58 case, all spec'd out by Rimco, and I want to tackle the oil galley plugs:

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I understand the mechanics of removing the plugs (drill, slide hammer, etc.), but are these the plugs that need to be removed? Any others I've missed? I've numbered them 1-5, #4 having a slotted head...I assume this is part of the oil pressure relief system.

Forgive the questions on basics...this is my first 36hp build, and I'm a little rusty on engine builds overall, as it's been a while.
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Snort
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, this is fun. It's like looking for Easter eggs. I've never pulled all the plugs, so I'm no expert, but I believe there are two baby ones on the flywheel side for the lifter bores, and a larger one on top near the oil cooler.
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Eric Outland
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:33 pm    Post subject: Plugs/Oil Reply with quote

Hey This is a Great post! Thought I would chime in and give my two cents worth. I find it interesting that, back in the day when VW was exchanging motors and taking customers broken, Burnt, seezed motors and exchanging them for a VW rebuild; that infact the Factory= Never replaced these plugs=nor never decided there was a need for it either!!(Did They?? does anybody know for sure??). Now, that was several decades ago Granted,--- and these Magnesium Cases not only didn't have the miles on them that they have now, nor of course where not as old. Also I have to believe that the Factory tanked cleaned the cases and cleaned the cases well enough not to warrant an oil gallery plug R&R. OK That being said. I agree in some cases that the plugs need to be Removed and replaced. If they leak like a siv! ( in 35 years I have seen 3 36hp cases that I can recall.) If the plugs are damaged for some reason I would change them. And finally for Peace of Mind I guess? To make sure that these are completely clean and that there will be a Gaurentee that these galleys are Clean. For me, if there gone! the case has lost its originality, and I keep reflecting back to back in the day. if they needed changing, I have to believe that the Factory would have done that when rebuilding the motor for the customer. ( Maybe they did I just don't know??? Does ANYBODY??)
Now these are Just my opinion's!

To get you Started on R&Ring your Gallery Plugs German Supply.com has a set which includes plugs drills and Tap and die. And or is good just for Info sake. Runs around $90 bucks. I am sure some one else can chime in with something less expensive. great Post Eric (VMR) Cool
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oval56
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i use for metric tepered hexagon socket screws in M8x1, m10x1 and m12x1,5

thats DIN screws, a set for a engien is about 35$

i also remove the small one son the backside of the housing


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removing the plugs:

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Bart Dunn
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, then, let's figure this out. Please chime in and correct the numbered list, keyed to the photos.

#1: Main crank bearing oil galley?
#2: Oil pressure relief oil galley?
#3: Main crank bearing oil galley?
#4: ?
#5: Main crank bearing (thrust bearing) oil galley?
#6: Camshaft oil galley?
#7: Camshaft oil galley?
#8: Oil cooler galley?

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Last edited by Bart Dunn on Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:43 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

#8 Top of the case looking down. Look at Ovall56 photos, he has a white X on it.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snort wrote:
#8 Top of the case looking down. Look at Ovall56 photos, he has a white X on it.


Edited my post--thanks.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

58Dub wrote:
I just did mine....pretty easy, but you need to be careful with the one near the oil pressure relief valve.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I believe the main galleys were 1\4 - 18 NPT


What're the details on your oil pump--is that the later style Type 1 pump, and what mod's were required to fit it? I have read about the studs being too small, etc.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bart Dunn wrote:
58Dub wrote:
I just did mine....pretty easy, but you need to be careful with the one near the oil pressure relief valve.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I believe the main galleys were 1\4 - 18 NPT


What're the details on your oil pump--is that the later style Type 1 pump, and what mod's were required to fit it? I have read about the studs being too small, etc.

The pump is a 26mm /6mm stud from http://www.aircooledresearch.com/docs/parts.html
Cover as you can see from Berg. They had some washers that fit from the larger milled surface on the cover to the 6mm hole for the studs. bolted up fine.
Putting the brass 90 into the block was a bit tricky...not a lot of material to work with
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Mr. Motorhead
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's some observations from building engines over the years. If the engine you are going to build has been a runner, chances are real good that a dip in a hot tank and a flush in the solvent tank will clean the case of any contaminants. For cosmetics, have it lightly ( so as not to blast off the pickle) soda blasted on the outside. Wash with hot soapy water, blow dry, you're ready to go. If it turns out to be an engine that has been sitting for a long period it's a whole different story. At the very least pull plugs 1 and 5 (from the picture). Tell tale problems are that white crusty corrosion (water damage), hard baked oil, or leftover metal from the last blow in any oil passage you open up. If you find any of those, pull all the plugs. Anything in between the two extremes I just described just takes a little judgement on your part to decide to pull or not to pull.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 11:24 pm    Post subject: Positive Cleaning........Live or Die? Reply with quote

Whenever I build a 25hp/36hp engine either stock or performance, I always remove and clean all the oil galleys with rifle brushes and laquer thinner. You would not believe how much crap stays stuck within the oil passages! I keep cleaning and cleaning until the brush comes out clean. Once im convince the block is clean, I do one more final wash with high pressure hot soapy water. Cheers! Mr. Okrasa Cool

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House
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice pics as usual. Have any with your plugs installed?
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:55 am    Post subject: Plugs Installed Reply with quote

House wrote:
Nice pics as usual. Have any with your plugs installed?

Thanks for your comment. Here is a photo as requested:

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slow36hp
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

snatched out my plugs today and know it was the right idea,tons of crud

what sizes and thread styles are being used for the diagramed 8 plugs
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From a thread in the oval forum:

Bart Dunn wrote:
sunroof wrote:
I'm building a '54 and need plugs for the oil galleries, What did you use?

Don


I am using these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002M9E0S/ref=oss_product
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN5HWG/ref=oss_product
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNB6XU/ref=oss_product

I did indeed order them from amazon.

You need 1/16, 1/8, and 1/4 NPT plugs for the 36hp. If, like me, you can't envision how that plug is actually one sixteenth of an inch and still gets a hex key in it, that's not how it works. NPT is "national pipe taper" and the sizes reference the thread angles and pitch (or whatever--I was a liberal arts major) and are not the diameter of the plug.

I bought several different kinds, including some steel ones, and like these best because they aren't as deep as some of the others, meaning you can fully seat it in the tapped hole and it doesn't project as far into the case and potentially block part of the oil galley.

I bought NPT taps on ebay. I broke one off flush with the surface of the case. Buy better ones than I did. I had a bugger of a time getting that thing out of the case and ended up welding a nut to the broken end of the tap and turned it out. I did wonder if my case would go up in flames.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought full boxes of 302 stainless plugs for doing the gallies if anyone needs some shoot me a pm
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a full set of brass plugs (8 pieces) at a local plumbing supply shop for the same price that a set of 2 aluminum plugs is offered for on Amazon.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wjoef wrote:
I bought a full set of brass plugs (8 pieces) at a local plumbing supply shop for the same price that a set of 2 aluminum plugs is offered for on Amazon.


Yeah, I've got about $25 in those plugs. Rolling Eyes I went with the aluminum ones because they're not as deep and therefore won't project as far into the case. Also, to my understanding, the expansion rate of aluminum more closely tracks that of the case material than most other metals, although I have no idea about brass.
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