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How to Install Fram external Oil
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Pharquarx
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As noted above previously.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=953419
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

...and Al Higdon at OMT.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Moxon wrote:
...and Al Higdon at OMT.


Thats who I was looking for, anybody have Als contact info
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

splitpile wrote:
John Moxon wrote:
...and Al Higdon at OMT.


Thats who I was looking for, anybody have Als contact info


310-892-8708
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aka pip wrote:
splitpile wrote:
John Moxon wrote:
...and Al Higdon at OMT.


Thats who I was looking for, anybody have Als contact info


310-892-8708


Thanks Mr. PIP
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Pharquarx
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pharquarx wrote:


My plan is to add oil to the engine and crank it without starting to get oil back up and into the engine passages and also to fill the Fram filter loop, cooling coil and associated lines. I will do this intermittently, and with the spark plugs out to lower resistance to cranking, until I get a discharge of oil into a temporary bottle. I will then hook up the oil return to the case at the distributor hollow bolt. This "filling of the loop" will be done before I secure the supercharge into place and "belt it up".



My plan worked and the installation turned out well. I should also note that I filled the Fram Filter with oil before cranking the engine to fill the loop. This way, the amount of air in the filter housing is minimized and, the filling of the loop went much quicker. Photos follow:

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the Fram filter assemblies still available and where would one find one?
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

disneymike wrote:
Are the Fram filter assemblies still available and where would one find one?


The Samba Classifieds:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=956797
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=976658
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=915856
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks John. I must not have entered the correct criteria for the search.... Smile
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eurodub
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stupid question: other than adding extra oil to compensate for the Fram bypass bottle and hoses, do i need a bigger /different oil pump? is the oil pressure modified after running this setup?

there is a small chance to find the right oil hoses here, should there be any problem in using copper pipes with banjo fittings ?

Thanks!.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

eurodub wrote:
stupid question: other than adding extra oil to compensate for the Fram bypass bottle and hoses, do i need a bigger /different oil pump? is the oil pressure modified after running this setup?

there is a small chance to find the right oil hoses here, should there be any problem in using copper pipes with banjo fittings ?

Thanks!.


No you don't need a larger oil pump...Stephane Lhonneux is making the correct oil lines again : [email protected]
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Moxon wrote:
eurodub wrote:
stupid question: other than adding extra oil to compensate for the Fram bypass bottle and hoses, do i need a bigger /different oil pump? is the oil pressure modified after running this setup?

there is a small chance to find the right oil hoses here, should there be any problem in using copper pipes with banjo fittings ?

Thanks!.


No you don't need a larger oil pump...Stephane Lhonneux is making the correct oil lines again : [email protected]


Thought I'd update on this one as the other two threads were killed. I found that Pelican Parts sells the hoses if you are mounting yours in the same location as a 356/912. Problem is the lines are cut and terminated to fit like so: The inlet line runs from a temp gauge/idiot line combo piece that uses a banjo fitting and banjo bolt. The return or outlet is a female end which runs to a hollow bolt that drops into the case roughly where the distributor hold down bolt is on a VW. I ordered a set of lines from Pelican to see if I can make them fit, running my inlet from the oil pressure switch and using a hollow bolt I have somewhere as my outlet.
As far as I can tell the only guy selling the lines and fittings is the guy from OMT and he charges $225, one of the posters here said the hollow bolt with stop alone is $120, so I guess that's why the kit is so expensive. I am going to try to avoid paying that much but we shall see.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok ,so where can i get the 2 black bolds?
I only need the oils sender extender banjo bold end the hollow distubuter bold.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Emiel wrote:
Ok ,so where can i get the 2 black bolds?
I only need the oils sender extender banjo bold end the hollow distubuter bold.


the banjo fitting is easy to get, Napa, Parker hose any place that sells fittings can fine that one, the hollow bolt for the dizzy is the bitch, i was the other poster hunting it down Tom at old speed will sell me one for 90euro that about 120bucks us dollars
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=946078

If you read the whole ad you'll find Stephane can supply you with the whole fittings and oil lines tailored to your application.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey John, how are you,
Yeah i just emailed Steph, Im going to bite the bullet and get the whole kit!, I was going to just locate the fitting and build the rest myself but at 199.00 even in Euro its still worth it now that i think about it, and what my time is worth it will save me some time and hassle
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 11:08 pm    Post subject: KD Oel Bypass Oel Lines Reply with quote

Hallo Everyone,
Just to set the Record straight.
The "Hollow Bolt" is $65. Lovingly hand crafted on My 15" swing manual Lathe. 2mm metering orifice as per the "KD" Diagram. Correct angle for seating of the 6mm "Cut Ring". Cad "Clear" plating by Sonic Plating in beautiful Gardena, California USA.
I am currently out of stock. I plan to produce another run this Month. Probably 25 pieces.
Stephan's Product is amazing. Correct blau "Tracer" on the Oel Hose, correct 90 degree Fitting for the Oel Can. My Hat goes off to Him.
And His Price is cheaper.
Best Regards,
Al
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 4:31 pm    Post subject: Re: KD Oel Bypass Oel Lines Reply with quote

I finally got my lines and fittings from Steph and have a couple questions:
There are to fittings, one is restricted one is not, I think the restricted one is the input one, right? To keep oil pressure up in the engine and the unrestricted one is the drain?
2: The ends are simply straight metal tubes, there are little sleeves that slide over the tubes that fit into the retaining nuts. i assume when I tighten them down the will "crush" onto the tube providing a seal, or do I need some special tool to do this?
Any help is appreciated.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 4:54 pm    Post subject: Re: KD Oel Bypass Oel Lines Reply with quote

Braukuche wrote:
I finally got my lines and fittings from Steph and have a couple questions:
There are to fittings, one is restricted one is not, I think the restricted one is the input one, right? To keep oil pressure up in the engine and the unrestricted one is the drain?
2: The ends are simply straight metal tubes, there are little sleeves that slide over the tubes that fit into the retaining nuts. i assume when I tighten them down the will "crush" onto the tube providing a seal, or do I need some special tool to do this?
Any help is appreciated.


Hey Dan,
in my opinion the restricted one would be at the return on the block so as to keep pressure in the filter flow and the little collers are crush collers, slide fitting onn line, then crush coller put line in female fitting making sure the tube is all the way in, screw on coupler nut and snug down DONT KILL IT JUST SNUG ABOUT 3/4 TO 1 TURN MAX you will feel it crush then kinda stop, call me if you need anything i pm'd my number to you

Joe
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I too have the lines form Steph. When I spoke to him about this, his response was this:

The L fitting with flow control insert must be fit on the inlet (side) of your canister. It keeps the correct pressure in the case and lets the canister remain at 0 psi.
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