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How to Install Fram external Oil
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CLASSIC CAR GUY
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blauhaus wrote:
I too have the lines form Steph. When I spoke to him about this, his response was this:

The L fitting with flow control insert must be fit on the inlet (side) of your canister. It keeps the correct pressure in the case and lets the canister remain at 0 psi.


that makes sense now that i think of it, i was thinking with the restriction at the return it would maintain a full canister all the time, however if the restriction is at the inlet, how would the canister have the chance to fill up?, it never would in the return in larger than the inlet.. Confused
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Braukuche
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CLASSIC CAR GUY wrote:
Blauhaus wrote:
I too have the lines form Steph. When I spoke to him about this, his response was this:

The L fitting with flow control insert must be fit on the inlet (side) of your canister. It keeps the correct pressure in the case and lets the canister remain at 0 psi.


that makes sense now that i think of it, i was thinking with the restriction at the return it would maintain a full canister all the time, however if the restriction is at the inlet, how would the canister have the chance to fill up?, it never would in the return in larger than the inlet.. Confused


Joe,
It definately stays filled because when you remove the lid the can is full. I think you are forgetting that the oil has to make its way through the restrictive element that is the filter cartridge. This would prevent the oil from just simply draining out through the unrestricted opening at the bottom.
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skyto
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 5:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CLASSIC CAR GUY wrote:


that makes sense now that i think of it, i was thinking with the restriction at the return it would maintain a full canister all the time, however if the restriction is at the inlet, how would the canister have the chance to fill up?, it never would in the return in larger than the inlet.. Confused


Take out the filter, look at the central oil return tube in the canister. You'll see a hole where the arrow e) points.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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CLASSIC CAR GUY
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Braukuche wrote:
CLASSIC CAR GUY wrote:
Blauhaus wrote:
I too have the lines form Steph. When I spoke to him about this, his response was this:

The L fitting with flow control insert must be fit on the inlet (side) of your canister. It keeps the correct pressure in the case and lets the canister remain at 0 psi.


that makes sense now that i think of it, i was thinking with the restriction at the return it would maintain a full canister all the time, however if the restriction is at the inlet, how would the canister have the chance to fill up?, it never would in the return in larger than the inlet.. Confused


Joe,
It definately stays filled because when you remove the lid the can is full. I think you are forgetting that the oil has to make its way through the restrictive element that is the filter cartridge. This would prevent the oil from just simply draining out through the unrestricted opening at the bottom.


Thanks Dan, I never examined one in detail like that, learn something new everyday?, now I know, buy the way, hows the set up working on the bus!

Joe
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skyto
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those with a 40hp installation, please post pictures. What's the best looking option for the return line hollow bolt? A fuel pump or generator pedestal stud? Or drill & tap a hole somewhere?

Distributor clamp is not an option, that's a blind hole in a 40hp case.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

skyto wrote:
Those with a 40hp installation, please post pictures. What's the best looking option for the return line hollow bolt? A fuel pump or generator pedestal stud? Or drill & tap a hole somewhere?

Distributor clamp is not an option, that's a blind hole in a 40hp case.


Here is what I did.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Of course I am running an electric fuel pump.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

for 36hp i have oillines and fittings (distributor stud and adaptor) availible
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

skyto wrote:
Those with a 40hp installation, please post pictures. What's the best looking option for the return line hollow bolt? A fuel pump or generator pedestal stud? Or drill & tap a hole somewhere?

Distributor clamp is not an option, that's a blind hole in a 40hp case.


I did the drill and tap into the genny stand. There is a rounded area cast into it for some reason. It was the perfect size for the hollow bolt to thread into.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This setup came with an Okrasa oil cooler but I eliminated it because it's just a bad idea. It warms the air that is supposed to cool the motor but I doubt it did much to cool the oil. Preheating air that then is supposed to cool oil in the factory oil cooler seams counter-productive to me. Confused
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skyto
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

zundapp wrote:


I did the drill and tap into the genny stand. There is a rounded area cast into it for some reason. It was the perfect size for the hollow bolt to thread into.



Perfect! The same place as here (with a banjo fitting)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have the same oil lines as in your pics, think I'll follow the same procedure for the return location. The hollow bolt won't be on the way then if removal of the gen stand or fuel pump is required. Great pictures, thanks!

As for the cooling spirals, haven't found any actual cht & oil temp results anywhere. Until that I'm wary of taking sides, but keeping things stock is certainly the safest way to go. It could also be that the spiral takes some of the thermal load of the stock cooler, and distributes it more evenly across the cyls..
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rtroy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2011 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zundapp wrote:
skyto wrote:
Those with a 40hp installation, please post pictures. What's the best looking option for the return line hollow bolt? A fuel pump or generator pedestal stud? Or drill & tap a hole somewhere?

Distributor clamp is not an option, that's a blind hole in a 40hp case.


I did the drill and tap into the genny stand. There is a rounded area cast into it for some reason. It was the perfect size for the hollow bolt to thread into.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This setup came with an Okrasa oil cooler but I eliminated it because it's just a bad idea. It warms the air that is supposed to cool the motor but I doubt it did much to cool the oil. Preheating air that then is supposed to cool oil in the factory oil cooler seams counter-productive to me. :?


Firstly, with this setup, you can eliminate the bolt and thread the 90 degree piece straight into the generator stand - more or less exactly as Porsche did on its early engines.

And secondly, the oil cooler in front of the fan intake can be seen from an engineering point of view as nothing more than increasing the area of the existing oil cooler. There is extra capacity for it - it's not such a bad idea after all.

Regards,
Richard
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rtroy wrote:
zundapp wrote:
skyto wrote:
Those with a 40hp installation, please post pictures. What's the best looking option for the return line hollow bolt? A fuel pump or generator pedestal stud? Or drill & tap a hole somewhere?

Distributor clamp is not an option, that's a blind hole in a 40hp case.


I did the drill and tap into the genny stand. There is a rounded area cast into it for some reason. It was the perfect size for the hollow bolt to thread into.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This setup came with an Okrasa oil cooler but I eliminated it because it's just a bad idea. It warms the air that is supposed to cool the motor but I doubt it did much to cool the oil. Preheating air that then is supposed to cool oil in the factory oil cooler seams counter-productive to me. Confused


Firstly, with this setup, you can eliminate the bolt and thread the 90 degree piece straight into the generator stand - more or less exactly as Porsche did on its early engines.

And secondly, the oil cooler in front of the fan intake can be seen from an engineering point of view as nothing more than increasing the area of the existing oil cooler. There is extra capacity for it - it's not such a bad idea after all.

Regards,
Richard


I did this set up on my vw too.
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CLASSIC CAR GUY
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

same here, that small spot on the genni stand was almost designed for it and looks like it should be there Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 4:10 pm    Post subject: oops! Reply with quote

Hello good people.

I have fitted a Fram filter and Okrasa style oil cooler today, using this thread as a reference. So, thanks for all your contributions.

All went well until...................................................................................


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thats the oil pressure switch / banjo fitting adaptor; SHEARED!!

What an idiot.

In my defence the material that sheared is less than 1mm thick! But I am a heavy handed ...............................!

I have emailed Steph, aka Mr Wob, and requested one asap. But is there anyone else that could help with a replacement if he is awol at the mo? I am really hoping to drive the Oval to the Volksworld Show in two weeks time if possible.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks, and remember, be GENTLE.
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CLASSIC CAR GUY
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 5:47 pm    Post subject: Re: oops! Reply with quote

BISH wrote:
Hello good people.

I have fitted a Fram filter and Okrasa style oil cooler today, using this thread as a reference. So, thanks for all your contributions.

All went well until...................................................................................


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thats the oil pressure switch / banjo fitting adaptor; SHEARED!!

What an idiot.

In my defence the material that sheared is less than 1mm thick! But I am a heavy handed ...............................!

I have emailed Steph, aka Mr Wob, and requested one asap. But is there anyone else that could help with a replacement if he is awol at the mo? I am really hoping to drive the Oval to the Volksworld Show in two weeks time if possible.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks, and remember, be GENTLE.




good luck trying to get it fast... Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give Joe "Mr Okrasa" Ruiz a call. 1-714-926-7004.

John
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:00 am    Post subject: Re: oops! Reply with quote

CLASSIC CAR GUY wrote:
BISH wrote:
Hello good people.

I have fitted a Fram filter and Okrasa style oil cooler today, using this thread as a reference. So, thanks for all your contributions.

All went well until...................................................................................


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thats the oil pressure switch / banjo fitting adaptor; SHEARED!!

What an idiot.

In my defence the material that sheared is less than 1mm thick! But I am a heavy handed ...............................!

I have emailed Steph, aka Mr Wob, and requested one asap. But is there anyone else that could help with a replacement if he is awol at the mo? I am really hoping to drive the Oval to the Volksworld Show in two weeks time if possible.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks, and remember, be GENTLE.




good luck trying to get it fast... Rolling Eyes


In fairness to Steph, he was pretty quick the last time I ordered bits from him, but it was over two weeks from order to delivery. So I thought I would ask you guys just in case there is someone else out there......................................................
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John M wrote:
Give Joe "Mr Okrasa" Ruiz a call. 1-714-926-7004.

John


Have emailed him. Thanks for that Smile
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is anyone currntly making the banjo adaptor or does someone have a source. Cant get Steph on email (somebody PM m his emil please to ee if I have wrong one) and no response from Mr. Okrasa (Ruiz) at least for me. To be fair I havent tried to call yet, just need the adpator bolt.

For that matter anyone selling the Okrasa Oil cooler loop right now>
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ojai63dbl wrote:
Is anyone currntly making the banjo adaptor or does someone have a source. Cant get Steph on email (somebody PM m his emil please to ee if I have wrong one) and no response from Mr. Okrasa (Ruiz) at least for me. To be fair I havent tried to call yet, just need the adpator bolt.

For that matter anyone selling the Okrasa Oil cooler loop right now>


http://www.malonespecialtyinc.com/banjo_fittings/banjofittings3.htm
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 5:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a heads-up on a new supplier of oil lines for the Fram By-Pass Filter, fuel lines for the glass filters and the Judson Oiler line. You'll find an ad on my "Buy & Sell" page: http://vwjudsonregister.tripod.com/buyandsellpage.htm

Mike Bucchino Sr will make them to your specifications...he also posts here as "vwmike333" Very Happy
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