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How to Install Fram external Oil
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have saved the line info for when i get to that point in the build Thanks. Looked at his page. Lots of fantastic stuff there Very Happy
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BISH
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I got lucky. Very Happy

I contacted Andi in Germany, and paid for an oil switch adaptor on Thursday of last week, and it arrived this Tuesday. Proper service!

The quality is in a different class to Mr Wobs.

With the opportunity to inspect the two, it is obvious to me now that the Mr Wob version is drilled out too far at the oil switch end, making the surface area that needs to take the moment/force of the twisting to tighten the fitting, far too thin. The machining has left a wall thickness of less than 1mm. On Andi`s version the correct thickness has been left which looks to be around 4mm.

I have contacted Mr Wob to let him know all this, and suprise suprise, he hasnt got back to me Rolling Eyes . Im not expecting anything out if it, I just dont want anyone else to have the same hassle.

Nevermind, I shall be driving to Volksworld this weekend, grinning from ear to ear! Very Happy
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vwmike333
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 7:28 pm    Post subject: Re: oops! Reply with quote

CLASSIC CAR GUY wrote:
BISH wrote:
Hello good people.

I have fitted a Fram filter and Okrasa style oil cooler today, using this thread as a reference. So, thanks for all your contributions.

All went well until...................................................................................


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thats the oil pressure switch / banjo fitting adaptor; SHEARED!!

What an idiot.

In my defence the material that sheared is less than 1mm thick! But I am a heavy handed ...............................!

I have emailed Steph, aka Mr Wob, and requested one asap. But is there anyone else that could help with a replacement if he is awol at the mo? I am really hoping to drive the Oval to the Volksworld Show in two weeks time if possible.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks, and remember, be GENTLE.




good luck trying to get it fast... Rolling Eyes



I am producing these fittings in the US now and have them available for immediate shipment. Mine are machined with better design for precisely this reason. You do still need to use care when tightening the fitting into the case. You can't afford to be heavy-handed on this one. If you insist on anything beyond "german torque" (good'n'tight), you will likely ruin your magnesium threads or even crack the main oil galley. This may cause permanent and possibly unrepairable damage to your valuable engine case. Factory torque spec for the oil pressure switch that normally threads into this M10x1 hole is only 9 ft/lbs, which is slightly more than hand-tight.
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62ItalianRagtop
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm working on my dual carbs 40hp and I want to install my Fram oil filter.
I have seen this installation kit

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and this one

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The second one with oil cooler is better ?
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 2:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The second one with the spiral was an optional add on with the Okrasa...which is better? Depends who you ask. Smile
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vwmike333
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

62ItalianRagtop wrote:
I'm working on my dual carbs 40hp and I want to install my Fram oil filter.
I have seen this installation kit

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and this one

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The second one with oil cooler is better ?


I produce the pieces in the first pic. My black-oxided case oil feed tee and distributor stud oil return fittings are made with much thicker walls than the one shown previously that sheared in two when tightened. Due to a better design, mine will never shear like that previous pic. I also produce the spiral copper oil cooler like the second pic, but that is not mine. I'm not sure if you can still get that one.
The Okrasa-style oil cooler does add additional cooling to the oil above what the Fram bypass filter will do. I also offer the oil cooler spiral in Copper-nickel-ferrous tubing, which is better than pure copper tubing, as it won't work-harden and crack from vibration as easily as the softer copper and it won't cause the oil sludge that running hot oil through pure copper pipe will. I also offer metric compression unions for ease of assembly and future servicing over the brazed hose connections. The choice is yours.
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62ItalianRagtop
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Moxon wrote:
The second one with the spiral was an optional add on with the Okrasa...which is better? Depends who you ask. Smile


Aside from those who produce it, I wanted to know if the oil cooling system can be useful to extend the life of my engine (40hp big bore with dual 34 carbs) or if it isn't so required Wink
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vwmike333
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

62ItalianRagtop wrote:
Aside from those who produce it, I wanted to know if the oil cooling system can be useful to extend the life of my engine (40hp big bore with dual 34 carbs) or if it isn't so required Wink


No, it is not required, but many folks want to add more oil and cooling capacity on a typical higher-performance engine. ACVW's are honestly oil-cooled and adding additional oil-cooling may help to shed some of the additional heat that's always generated by a high-performance engine. The type 4 VW engine got a couple of extra rows on the stock aluminum oil cooler for this reason. Those engines had increased cc's, higher compression and ran hotter as a result of generating additional HP, so they needed all the help they could get. The Porsche got a "trombone" steel tubing oil cooler mounted in the right front fenderwell to remove the oil about 10 feet away from the engine and back to increase cooling capacity of the 3.0 air-cooled flat-six engine on the stock '82 911SC that I used to own. In your case, you haven't stated the spec's on the engine you're running, so it's hard to give a specific answer other than to to generalize. Can a cooler running engine live longer? Absolutely. A hotter running engine will definitely live a shorter life, in general.
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joe h.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwmike333 wrote:
62ItalianRagtop wrote:
I'm working on my dual carbs 40hp and I want to install my Fram oil filter.
I have seen this installation kit

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and this one

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The second one with oil cooler is better ?


I produce the pieces in the first pic. My black-oxided case oil feed tee and distributor stud oil return fittings are made with much thicker walls than the one shown previously that sheared in two when tightened. Due to a better design, mine will never shear like that previous pic. I also produce the spiral copper oil cooler like the second pic, but that is not mine. I'm not sure if you can still get that one.
The Okrasa-style oil cooler does add additional cooling to the oil above what the Fram bypass filter will do. I also offer the oil cooler spiral in Copper-nickel-ferrous tubing, which is better than pure copper tubing, as it won't work-harden and crack from vibration as easily as the softer copper and it won't cause the oil sludge that running hot oil through pure copper pipe will. I also offer metric compression unions for ease of assembly and future servicing over the brazed hose connections. The choice is yours.



I need the kit in the first pic. How do I go about purchasing one?
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vwmike333
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joe h. wrote:
I need the kit in the first pic. How do I go about purchasing one?


email me for specifics. [email protected]
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D-train
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 4:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

installation was simple on it, but i had a constant leak around the fram an couldnt figure it out till 2day.
u can see the spray marks on the firewall.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


the braided line from the outlet side isnt crimped hard enough causing oil to be sucked towards the fan, i pushed the line on further which isnt good when its been doin this since day 1. only just found where it was comin from.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 2:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

can anyone please measure the diameter of the largest and smallest loop and the height of the coil so i can make one of these, i have copper tubbing which is 6.35 - 1/4 inch i know the original is 6mm but 6.35 works well with jic standardard fittings.

also any idea why the original changes material as it goes over tinware, looks like steel sleeved together with copper then brazed
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Envious
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can anybody post up the length of the oil lines for firewall mounting on both a bug and a ghia?

I have two sets of lines here and I'm trying to determine their application.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwmike333 wrote:
joe h. wrote:
I need the kit in the first pic. How do I go about purchasing one?


email me for specifics. [email protected]


put an ad up for these parts, please?
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vwmike333
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ad for these items that I have currently can be seen at;

http://vwjudsonregister.tripod.com/buyandsellpage.htm


email me for specifics........
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeaterday on my to work, i drove my 54 oval with Express motor.
It ran perfect as usual but after 2 kilometer I noticed a little smoke in the cabin, I had just turned on the heat so I thought it was the explaniition after 1 kilometer more even more smoke, my eyes hit the gauges and saw the oil pressure gauge reading zero!!!
I turned of the motor and stopped. When I walked around the car there was oil everywhere! Running down the rear valance and all over the motor.

The error was the oil line running to the Fram filter had disconnect itself between the line and pipe. These lines are 5-6 years old, so remember to check your oil lines!!

After I got the oval home, cleaned it for oil, filled fresh oil on the motor. I took it for a spin. So far I've driven 90kilometer and no noises and oil pressure is good. So I hope there wasn't any damage done.

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vwmike333
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter_Plade wrote:

The error was the oil line running to the Fram filter had disconnect itself between the line and pipe. These lines are 5-6 years old, so remember to check your oil lines!!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Where did you purchase these lines?
It is clear to me that the steel tube does not have a bead or barbs on the end. This type of plain steel tubing will always eventually fail and come apart over time. due to the force of oil pressure and insufficient friction between the smooth steel tube and the smooth inside surface of the rubber hose. Auto manufacturers know this and manufacture their OE hoses to prevent it from happening.
My lines are made with genuine German hose end nipples with proper beads or barbs to prevent this from occurring. Only the spiral copper oil cooler option forces me to produce special long steel ends that are no longer available from Germany. I form a bead on the end of these special ends. Even using proper beaded or barbed hose ends, and the crimp sleeves crimped sufficiently for proper 'crush' to the hose, you could still cause hose assembly (or other!) such failures. This could happen if you're running thick oil in cold weather and rev the engine too high before it's properly warmed up and thinned out. Over the years, many VW oil coolers have been blown out by these tremendous forces created by a stuck oil relief plunger and cold, thick oil. The Okrasa oil line setup has no oil relief valve incorporated into the design, so you must be aware of these facts. It's tapped unrestricted straight from the oil pressure switch port. It only runs into a restriction when it hits the restrictor jet inside the Fram filter inlet fitting. You may have a stuck oil pressure relief piston, and possibly a blown (expanded) oil cooler, also. You may be running oil that's too thick for the cooler temps this time of year, also. VW recommends 10 or 20 weight oil when the temps don't go above 86 degrees F or 30 degrees C. This is important info that's in your original owner's manual.
This should never happen to the Fram oil lines that I produce, as they are assembled properly with nearly 100% correct OE German parts. And mine cost less than others (which may or may not be available at this time!)
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Peter_Plade
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use the type of oil that I've used the 17 years I've owned/driven this oval. And the relief valve isn't stuck.
It just must be a failure in the oil line crimping.

What is your price only for the line going to the filter?

Also I was thinking if it was possible to make the restrictor in the banjo? That way if this should happen again you wouldn't loose as much oil just as fast.
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vwmike333
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am wondering, what oil weight are you using? Also, what are the outside temps there right now? Did you confirm the actual oil pressure readings both cold and hot from idle to high revs? If you send me the line and ends, I will repair it for you with a new crimp sleeve and will form a new bead on the end of your steel hose end. I can't get that single blue stripe, steel-braided oil hose, so to keep it all matching, I would need to repair your existing line. I am still searching for a source of the blue-stripe hose, so any help would be appreciated for those who may know where I could get it. I could produce a restriction-type of oil pressure switch tee fitting, eliminating the restriction in the Fram filter inlet fitting, as is original. Yes, it would reduce the amount of leakage and retain pressure in the main oil galley. Why it wasn't done this way originally, is beyond me. I just reproduce them as designed, but I do question a few of these critical features of Oettinger's original engineering. Experience over decades and developments in engineering and materials may now be highlighting some of the shortcomings of automotive components that were designed back in the 1950's. I will repair your line for $25, plus your actual shipping costs.

Mike B.

Peter_Plade wrote:
I use the type of oil that I've used the 17 years I've owned/driven this oval. And the relief valve isn't stuck.
It just must be a failure in the oil line crimping.

What is your price only for the line going to the filter?

Also I was thinking if it was possible to make the restrictor in the banjo? That way if this should happen again you wouldn't loose as much oil just as fast.
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 11:45 am    Post subject: Fram bracket ghia Okrasa set up, Reply with quote

Who makes thes babies.

its the bracket for ghias when running a Okrasa or other kits

Just Wondering I need a couple adapt

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