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what's your ideal replacement engine?
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pcnorton
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the non WBX replacement how do they fit the VW AC compressor?


Paul
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Williamtaylor33
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pcnorton wrote:
With the non WBX replacement how do they fit the VW AC compressor?


Paul

You dont.
You just buy an a/c compressor for the new engine and run your old lines to it.
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Williamtaylor33
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thummmper wrote:
isnt bostig 5k+? your ground clearance is not good there
todd

Really? The ground clearance was fine on my old ford powered westy. And now with the high clearance pan its even better.
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Crughy
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

outwesty wrote:
I just installed A TDI in my 89, Its an amazingly powerful motor but isn't the easiest swap by far...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2gxvoTRQO4


I don't which engine is that one? 2.0 xt???? (I guess it's a turbo VW, as it's in Europe).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ar_X3YmoobU

Really nice!!!!

JP
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outwesty
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1.9 AHU TDI, PP520 nozzles and will be chipped by the end of the week. I need to break the motor in a little more. The torque is downright amazing. 30+ MPG isnt bad either...I am guessing its around 125 HP and 230ish ft lbs of torque. It only has 100 miles on it. I will dyno it the first chance I get. I think every swap (1.8T, subu, diesel, ztec, whatever) is cool in its own way.

Last edited by outwesty on Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:58 pm; edited 3 times in total
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Todd, 130+ hp is real nice with a stock transmission. 160+ is a + and fun when climbing. I had.... about 208hp since last week, it was more then enough. Now I'm testing an 2010 engine, well, it's a "bastardize" engine with locked VVT and mapped ECM but it feel a bit less than my other one... well, i think. I thin it may have around 190hp. I will know more next week.

Where i'm I going with that????

Nowhere, sorry.

Ben
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pcnorton wrote:
With the non WBX replacement how do they fit the VW AC compressor?

Paul


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


On the right.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


From left to right: PS pump, Alternator, AC compressor. Adaptor hose need to be made, pretty easy.

Subi are the easiest engine to work on, of all conversion... Sorry, i will rephrase, boxer engine are! Including the stock VW.

ALT replacement: 5 minutes
PS pump: 10 minutes
AC comp: 10 minutes.
T-belt replacement: 1-1.5 hour MAX
Head gasket: about 1 hour per side MAX.
T-stat: 5 minutes.

Everything is accessible easily.

Here is some real engine porn:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Benny
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pcnorton
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that the new beltless AC pump. LOL Wink


Thank you.


Paul
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vinnyvango
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ftp2leta wrote:
Todd, 130+ hp is real nice with a stock transmission. 160+ is a + and fun when climbing. I had.... about 208hp since last week, it was more then enough. Ben


Ben:
Can you share how you are getting 208HP out of a Phase II 2.5? That's pretty impressive.
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 4:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vinnyvango wrote:

Ben:
Can you share how you are getting 208HP out of a Phase II 2.5? That's pretty impressive.


Nothing special, 1500$ per head for modification including cams.
Search the web, you will find plenty of specialize machine shop/high performance parts. I'm lucky enough to have 2 of those shop on my street and 1 dyno shop.

Here is an example:
http://www.techworkseng.com/Services/Cylinder_Head_Porting.htm

ECM can also be mapped but it's hard on fuel consumption.

The new trick lately for Subaru tuner guys is to use a late block (2006+) and earlier heads and shave the pistons. I don't like it for reliability but it look like a very powerful combination.

I was just trying to find a viable option for some customers who want more punch without the complexity of a turbo. But at the end, it's more expensive.

My cousin and helper has over 240 hp on a VW 2.0L 16V Golf engine.

There is 3 kind of tuner guys:
1-) Adding a cheap and somewhat simple turbo kit, result: A lot more raw power, not very reliable if pushed to often, hard on fuel. Very popular with kids on a budget. Turbo can easily double the initial power.

2-) Heavy engine modification, mostly heads work in general, including high duration cams, P&P, valves work (may include bigger valves), head shaving, computer mapped (live or not), different Fuel injectors. This will in general add 20-40% power increase. It's expensive works.

3-) A combination of the 2 above: Very very expensive, can cost up to 8K$ and more, i mean way more.

One of the shop around me is a real pro tuner shop, they mostly do racing car work. They are now working on a Honda engine, a 2.0L, so far the investment on those engines (customer as 2-spare one) is around 16k$, power is over 450hp.

I could go on for hours, I'm on a "tuner" street.

Ben
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GBA 88West LA
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ben you have the best subi porn in the world Cool
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Petrol: Audi 2.8V6, possibly an Audi 2.2 20V Turbo or Subaru flat 6, if you can afford it, a 996 Turbo engine and gearbox but that's mega expensive... oh and all with LPG Very Happy

Diesel: 2.5TDi 5 Cylinder (possibly from a Crafter) or 3.0TDi V6 from one of the more modern Audi/VW setups with 230bhp and 400ftlbs as stock!

An engine has to sound good to me aswell as work well. Inline 4 cylinder engines just don't do it for me.

MG
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r39o
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jpwilkin wrote:
I've been thinking about saving up for a replacement engine, though--a long term project.

You need to be saving now. The wife WILL question the cost. You MUST state your budget.

jpwilkin wrote:
Candidates I've considered are turbo-diesel, Subaru and Zetec. I'd love to hear thoughts on this. Would love better power, reliability, fuel efficiency and durability, pretty much in that order.

Unconstrained budget: Subaru TDI (I will do it when the chance comes.)

Constrained budget:
- better power: All of the options out there have better power (some NA diesels not considered here)
- reliability: Subaru
- fuel efficiency: diesel followed all the gas ones (except SVX) give about the same, it seems but better than most wbx engines give. The dynamics of pushing the big box Westy around just seem to cause the mpg to be all about the same, give or take.
- durabilty: All are better than the wbx (GENERALLY), but in the following order:
* 92-94 EJ22 seems to hold up exceptionally well (250K+ miles no problem)
* VW diesel NA engines (you will wear them out before they tend to break)
* Other Subarus (EJ25, SVX, etc...)
* Gas VW I4s (I am partial to Digifant powered ABA overall in this catagory)
* Turbo anything IS LAST. Face it, you are stressing them. They love to leak (I know, I have had them since they were new so don't tell me.) Lots of niggly little stuff tends to happen. If you stay on top of them, fine, but they do wear and need more service generally.

NOTE: This is an opinion debate and every body has one. When it comes down to it, anything you do is likely better than what you have now. This is an ages old debate. There is NO best solution (not even the Subaru diesel.) *YOU* need to choose. There is LOTS of reading and debate here. Everybody (typically) thinks their choice is best and will tell you what they have. In my case, my choice meets my needs for the most part, but is not my optimal choice but gets me down the road until I can make up my mind. It took me a few years to step up and I am happy I did, even if it is not perfect. It works and keeps the peace (hint, hint.)

I am SURE I have forgotten something and since there is no perfect solution that is just the way it is and I am sure some one will post just how bad I screwed up. So be it.

Now get on with what you need to do.
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dredward
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 4:17 pm    Post subject: Re: what's your ideal replacement engine? Reply with quote

jpwilkin wrote:
I've got a '91 multivan with an original engine 110k miles), running strong. We're on our way back from a trip from our home in Michigan to Nevada and Utah, packing 3 kids, a dog and requisite gear. It was generally wonderful except for a few hours of 45mph into strong winds in N. Texas and 25mph over a couple of passes in the Rockies. Natch and to be expected. I've been thinking about saving up for a replacement engine, though--a long term project. Candidates I've considered are turbo-diesel, Subaru and Zetec. I'd love to hear thoughts on this. Would love better power, reliability, fuel efficiency and durability, pretty much in that order.

Be sure to test as many swaps before you decide. I tried everything but a GoWesty 2.5, suby svx, or sti. Give hp and torque curves i say the 1.8t is the best(in my humble opinion). Keep in mind i have a syncro westy so power was a big issue for me. I also live in Cali and need something i could get smog legal. I just drove from Sant Cruz to San Fransisco in the left lane the entire trip. On 280 i had to watch my right foot(found myself doing over 80 up grades and i can't afford anymore tickets). When driveing 65-70ish i get 20+ mpg. Remember you get what you pay for. Best thing about the 1.8t is how much it can be tuned with software and bolt ons. See apr for potentials: http://www.goapr.com/products/stage3plus_trans.html
http://www.goapr.com/products/tvk04.html
There are other vedors with even better #'s but apr is known, tested, and trusted by many.....
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

could someone list the engines that do NOT reduce gnd. clearance and also do NOT intrude into the rear storage (raise the floor)?
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 5:15 pm    Post subject: Re: what's your ideal replacement engine? Reply with quote

The title of this post asked what is the "ideal" replacement engine. But there is no ideal. An ideal is something that can never be achieved. The real is always a compromise. So maybe I'm not answering the question in the title, but I think the Bostig Zetec conversion represents the best compromise for someone who wants to do an inexpensive self-installation, and have a very reliable, smooth running, nice upgrade in power.

Bostig is the most cost effective conversion. Any guy with a tool box can install in a weekend. Everything is figured out and prepared for you in advance. Great installation support. After you get it in and running then there's nothing left to do but drive and enjoy.

Other engine options have their advantages but they either cost a lot more money, or they presume that you have the knowledge, skills, and time to fabricate, re-wire, and troubleshoot engine systems. And/or spend countless hours with online forums learning how to make the systems work in your van.

A rebuilt, higher compression WBX is a nice thing to have, but you'll still be relying on 25-year old systems (fuel injection, etc) and peripheral components.

Bostig is plug and play, costs about $5k total and you're done (unless you want to play with a ford supercharger or turbo system, but that's another topic).
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
could someone list the engines that do NOT reduce gnd. clearance and also do NOT intrude into the rear storage (raise the floor)?

The 1.8t doesn't reduce ground clearence. My syncro skid bars still fit. The deck lid is only raised 1.25-1.5 inches. I've since slept on the bottom bed and haven't noticed a difference.......
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

randywebb wrote:
could someone list the engines that do NOT reduce gnd. clearance and also do NOT intrude into the rear storage (raise the floor)?


A Subi with a small car aluminum pan, that is what i have on my van right now.

Sorry, to lazy to upload picture lately, they will come soon.

Here is the link for the pan:
http://www.smallcar.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29943

Ben
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I go for a VW related engine as my ideal choice. TDI is the way to get the power I want and the mileage too.

If mileage wasn't a problem I'd go for a Audi inline 5 , V6, or even a V8.

There's also exploring the world of a flat-six from a Boxster.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

onwardtothestars wrote:
I go for a VW related engine as my ideal choice. TDI is the way to get the power I want and the mileage too.

If mileage wasn't a problem I'd go for a Audi inline 5 , V6, or even a V8.

There's also exploring the world of a flat-six from a Boxster.


To many purist on this planet Smile

Come on guy, see the light!

Life does evolve, it's a fact, is it a sad truth, maybe:

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Ben
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