1962 Light Switch Connections...

[Scootle]

Hey all. I've got a '62 bug that I've been reassembling from the ground up, and I'm finally onto the wiring and problems associated with wiring. The light switch on my bug has a couple terminals that are disconnected. I was wondering if anyone had a tip or a diagram as to which wires go to which terminals on the switch.

Thanks,
-Scott

[zozo]

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php

[Scootle]

I saw the diagram, but I'm curious as to if it matters which terminal the wires are plugged into. Is there a specific arrangement? Or do you just plug them in wherever?

[glutamodo]

I'm partial to this diagram (since I was the one who scanned, then edited it)

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bug_62-65withinset.jpg

...where it shows the connections off to the side if you're on 12V and using a VW/Euro style turn signal relay.

But the headlight switch, every terminal number is for a certain application. 30 is power from the battery, and power out to the igntion switch. 57 is the (unfused) connection to the front marker lights in the headlight buckets. 56 goes to the high/low beam switch and then the fusebox. 58 goes to the fusebox, then back to the rear parking and license light lights. 58b is the instrument light bulbs.

[Scootle]

Fantastic! Thank you so much. I'll be sure to post on this board again if I run into anymore issues. You guys are a ton of help!

[scottyrocks]

Old thread, but I'm glad it's here.

I'm at the point where I'm about to redo the wiring to my light switch.

Some of you may recall that I have burnt wires that I have determined are no longer hooked up to anything (there is no interior headliner light). I will attempt to pull these wires out, or at the very least, cap them off.

I am using glut's diagram, and comparing it to the headlight switch in my car, as well as to the photo in the above post, which as been a big help.

My switch (and I am aware of the burnt wires):

Is that a '60' on the switch in my photo, or is it a '30' that I am seeing incorrectly? My daughter said it looks like an '80.' (It's probably a '30' coz that's what it's supposed to be.)

Aside from the generally poor condition of the switch and some of the wires, and what appears to be a '60' where the '30' is in the nice new switch in the above photo and the wiring diagrams, I assume that it would just be a good idea to get a new switch, given the worn-outedness of mine.

Are all the new available wiring switches about the same, quality-wise? Or is there a particular one from a particular vendor that I should buy?
_________________
“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch'

[scottyrocks]

[mukluk]

It's a very safe bet that if you cleaned up the old switch a bit and got some good lighting to see it clearly, you'd find your "60" terminal is actually a 30.

You can use a VOM to check the resistance through the switch contacts to see if it's still useable, assuming the detents are still good and you might be interested in continuing to use it. Readings should be as close to zero as possible with good contacts.
_________________
1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[scottyrocks]

[mukluk]

Some clarification in case it's needed, checking with a meter should show the following:
With the switch at the first detent out should have close to zero ohms read from 30 to 57 and 58, while resistance to 58b will be variable and increase/decrease as you twist the knob. At the second detent or full out position, you should have close to zero ohms from terminal 30 to 56 and 58, with 58b again being variable in proportion to how much you twist the knob.

30 - power in from the battery
56 - headlight output
57 - front parking light output (normally used in US market)
58 - tail light output and front markers in non-US markets
58b - gauge lighting output (variable resistor)
_________________
1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[scottyrocks]

Thank you, mukluk. You and glut are life (and time) savers!
_________________
“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch'

[KTPhil]

[mukluk]

[scottyrocks]

My car is 6v, but yes, I will disconnect all wiring from the switch before performing the tests.
_________________
“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch'

[scottyrocks]

I pulled out the light switch this morning, and cleaned up the contacts.

Yes, the 30 is a 30.

The resistance tests were near zero from 30 to 57 and then 58 with the switch at the first detent, but from 30 to 58b there was no reaction at the meter when I twisted the dimmer. It just shows 1.

This could explain why the connections were not installed correctly, if 58b is not working properly.

So I am going to add a light switch to my order from WW (as that's where I can get a much improved flasher relay).
_________________
“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch'

[mukluk]

Sounds like the dimmer rheostat is toast. It'll still work sort of, you just won't be able to adjust the brightness of the instrument lighting -- where it's at is whatcha got. Of course replacing it is a good option as well.

_________________
1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[KTPhil]

It's also possible that the wire-wound rheostat inside (the dimmer function) has broken, and the loose wires can short out other contacts intermittently.

[mukluk]

[scottyrocks]

[mukluk]

If you want the front parking lights to be on in both the first and second detents, you'll connect them to the light switch terminal 58 as shown in the diagram below. If you prefer to wire them as normally done for US market Bugs so that the front parking lights are only on at the first detent but not when the headlights are on, you'll connect them to terminal 57. From the factory the 57 circuit wasn't fused which you've already found out once the ramifications of in the event a circuit overload or short happens, so if you decide to use terminal 57 you should add an inline fuse for the front parking lights.

_________________
1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"