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Scootle Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2009 Posts: 7 Location: Bothell, Washington
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Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 11:35 pm Post subject: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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Hey all. I've got a '62 bug that I've been reassembling from the ground up, and I'm finally onto the wiring and problems associated with wiring. The light switch on my bug has a couple terminals that are disconnected. I was wondering if anyone had a tip or a diagram as to which wires go to which terminals on the switch.
Thanks,
-Scott |
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zozo Samba Member
Joined: October 15, 2005 Posts: 5217 Location: South of Ol' San Antonio
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Scootle Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2009 Posts: 7 Location: Bothell, Washington
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Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 12:36 am Post subject: |
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I saw the diagram, but I'm curious as to if it matters which terminal the wires are plugged into. Is there a specific arrangement? Or do you just plug them in wherever? |
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glutamodo The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26307 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 1:12 am Post subject: |
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I'm partial to this diagram (since I was the one who scanned, then edited it)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bug_62-65withinset.jpg
...where it shows the connections off to the side if you're on 12V and using a VW/Euro style turn signal relay.
But the headlight switch, every terminal number is for a certain application. 30 is power from the battery, and power out to the igntion switch. 57 is the (unfused) connection to the front marker lights in the headlight buckets. 56 goes to the high/low beam switch and then the fusebox. 58 goes to the fusebox, then back to the rear parking and license light lights. 58b is the instrument light bulbs.
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Scootle Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2009 Posts: 7 Location: Bothell, Washington
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Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 12:24 pm Post subject: |
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Fantastic! Thank you so much. I'll be sure to post on this board again if I run into anymore issues. You guys are a ton of help! |
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scottyrocks Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2016 Posts: 2660 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 2:25 pm Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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Old thread, but I'm glad it's here.
I'm at the point where I'm about to redo the wiring to my light switch.
Some of you may recall that I have burnt wires that I have determined are no longer hooked up to anything (there is no interior headliner light). I will attempt to pull these wires out, or at the very least, cap them off.
I am using glut's diagram, and comparing it to the headlight switch in my car, as well as to the photo in the above post, which as been a big help.
My switch (and I am aware of the burnt wires):
Is that a '60' on the switch in my photo, or is it a '30' that I am seeing incorrectly? My daughter said it looks like an '80.' (It's probably a '30' coz that's what it's supposed to be.)
Aside from the generally poor condition of the switch and some of the wires, and what appears to be a '60' where the '30' is in the nice new switch in the above photo and the wiring diagrams, I assume that it would just be a good idea to get a new switch, given the worn-outedness of mine.
Are all the new available wiring switches about the same, quality-wise? Or is there a particular one from a particular vendor that I should buy? _________________ “If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch' |
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scottyrocks Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2016 Posts: 2660 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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glutamodo wrote: |
I'm partial to this diagram (since I was the one who scanned, then edited it)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bug_62-65withinset.jpg
...where it shows the connections off to the side if you're on 12V and using a VW/Euro style turn signal relay.
But the headlight switch, every terminal number is for a certain application. 30 is power from the battery, and power out to the igntion switch. 57 is the (unfused) connection to the front marker lights in the headlight buckets. 56 goes to the high/low beam switch and then the fusebox. 58 goes to the fusebox, then back to the rear parking and license light lights. 58b is the instrument light bulbs.
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By the way, thank you for this. It's about as perfectly clear as one could hope for. _________________ “If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch' |
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7023 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 3:10 pm Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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It's a very safe bet that if you cleaned up the old switch a bit and got some good lighting to see it clearly, you'd find your "60" terminal is actually a 30.
You can use a VOM to check the resistance through the switch contacts to see if it's still useable, assuming the detents are still good and you might be interested in continuing to use it. Readings should be as close to zero as possible with good contacts. _________________ 1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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scottyrocks Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2016 Posts: 2660 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 3:17 pm Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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mukluk wrote: |
It's a very safe bet that if you cleaned up the old switch a bit and got some good lighting to see it clearly, you'd find your "60" terminal is actually a 30.
You can use a VOM to check the resistance through the switch contacts to see if it's still useable, assuming the detents are still good and you might be interested in continuing to use it. Readings should be as close to zero as possible with good contacts. |
That's what I figured (re the 30).
Sure, I can test it, thanks. _________________ “If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch' |
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7023 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 3:42 pm Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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Some clarification in case it's needed, checking with a meter should show the following:
With the switch at the first detent out should have close to zero ohms read from 30 to 57 and 58, while resistance to 58b will be variable and increase/decrease as you twist the knob. At the second detent or full out position, you should have close to zero ohms from terminal 30 to 56 and 58, with 58b again being variable in proportion to how much you twist the knob.
30 - power in from the battery
56 - headlight output
57 - front parking light output (normally used in US market)
58 - tail light output and front markers in non-US markets
58b - gauge lighting output (variable resistor) _________________ 1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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scottyrocks Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2016 Posts: 2660 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 5:15 pm Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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Thank you, mukluk. You and glut are life (and time) savers! _________________ “If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch' |
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 33991 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 5:22 pm Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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mukluk wrote: |
Some clarification in case it's needed, checking with a meter should show the following:
With the switch at the first detent out should have close to zero ohms read from 30 to 57 and 58, while resistance to 58b will be variable and increase/decrease as you twist the knob. At the second detent or full out position, you should have close to zero ohms from terminal 30 to 56 and 58, with 58b again being variable in proportion to how much you twist the knob.
30 - power in from the battery
56 - headlight output
57 - front parking light output (normally used in US market)
58 - tail light output and front markers in non-US markets
58b - gauge lighting output (variable resistor) |
Note this is with all wires removed from the switch. The 12V entering from terminal 30 can zap your meter if it's in a range that isn't protected. Not likely with new digital meters, but the old analog meters could be fried.
Hmmm, does anyone have analog meters anymore? |
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7023 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 5:56 pm Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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KTPhil wrote: |
Note this is with all wires removed from the switch. The 12V entering from terminal 30 can zap your meter if it's in a range that isn't protected. Not likely with new digital meters, but the old analog meters could be fried.
Hmmm, does anyone have analog meters anymore? |
Guess I do often assume folks either know how to use their meter or at least take a peek at the instructions first, but yes, continuity checks must be performed on deenergised circuits or components.
Analog meters are still out there if you're interested, I bounce back and forth between an old Actron analog engine tester and a digital RAdio Shack multimeter depending on what I'm messing with.
https://www.simpsonelectric.com/products/test-equipment/vom-multimeters/260-8-260-8p _________________ 1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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scottyrocks Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2016 Posts: 2660 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 6:14 pm Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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My car is 6v, but yes, I will disconnect all wiring from the switch before performing the tests. _________________ “If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch' |
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scottyrocks Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2016 Posts: 2660 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2018 9:53 am Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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I pulled out the light switch this morning, and cleaned up the contacts.
Yes, the 30 is a 30.
The resistance tests were near zero from 30 to 57 and then 58 with the switch at the first detent, but from 30 to 58b there was no reaction at the meter when I twisted the dimmer. It just shows 1.
This could explain why the connections were not installed correctly, if 58b is not working properly.
So I am going to add a light switch to my order from WW (as that's where I can get a much improved flasher relay). _________________ “If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch' |
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7023 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2018 10:56 am Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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Sounds like the dimmer rheostat is toast. It'll still work sort of, you just won't be able to adjust the brightness of the instrument lighting -- where it's at is whatcha got. Of course replacing it is a good option as well.
_________________ 1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 33991 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2018 11:23 am Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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It's also possible that the wire-wound rheostat inside (the dimmer function) has broken, and the loose wires can short out other contacts intermittently.
Last edited by KTPhil on Sat Sep 22, 2018 12:23 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7023 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2018 11:41 am Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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KTPhil wrote: |
It's also possible that the wire-wound rheostat inside (the dimmer function) has broken, and the loose wires can short out other contacts. |
Which you would be able to tell by metering through the contacts. _________________ 1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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scottyrocks Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2016 Posts: 2660 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2018 12:55 pm Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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mukluk wrote: |
Sounds like the dimmer rheostat is toast. It'll still work sort of, you just won't be able to adjust the brightness of the instrument lighting -- where it's at is whatcha got. Of course replacing it is a good option as well.
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The dimmer did work, but things were not hooked up correctly, maybe because the proper contact (58b) did not work, as tested.
I just stripped all the black wire protector coverings off the wires that run down to the headlights. The wires that are burnt (see a few posts above), attached to 57, both go directly to the parking lights.
The wires are disconnected now, but looking at the diagrams, I may have had the wires reversed at the parking light connectors the last time I put the headlights back together because it wasn't long after I put them back together that the parking lights failed, and I hadn't noticed the burnt wires prior to that. At any rate, I'm putting new wires in now and will install them to the correct posts.
I have two wiring diagrams for the '62-'65 Beetle. One (the one supplied by glut) shows these wires hooked up the way I have them, and the other (by Buggeezer aka Bill Tate, Meadowood Studios) shows them going to the two linked spades on the fuse panel, and then a single wire going to the light switch. Which is correct? Would both work? Should they be fused? I will use the glut diagram unless told not to do so. _________________ “If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch' |
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7023 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2018 2:24 pm Post subject: Re: 1962 Light Switch Connections... |
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If you want the front parking lights to be on in both the first and second detents, you'll connect them to the light switch terminal 58 as shown in the diagram below. If you prefer to wire them as normally done for US market Bugs so that the front parking lights are only on at the first detent but not when the headlights are on, you'll connect them to terminal 57. From the factory the 57 circuit wasn't fused which you've already found out once the ramifications of in the event a circuit overload or short happens, so if you decide to use terminal 57 you should add an inline fuse for the front parking lights.
_________________ 1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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