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Jedi
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 6:32 pm    Post subject: Behr AC Thread Reply with quote

Hello After searching and finding many people needing Behr AC info Lets post what you have or need here. I am looking for a full instructions on my indash unit. Mine was just serviced by PO but I can't get it to work. Please scan your instructions and post if you have them. Very Happy
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Last edited by Jedi on Tue Apr 27, 2010 1:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not instructions but the parts manual may help.

Posted by Warren Chapman R.I.P.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=374378&highlight=behr++manual
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hdenter
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe Dogpilot has some stuff on Behr systems on his web site. Look him up here on the Samba and find the link to his stuf.

Good Luck,

Hans
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Jedi
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the scan. I have a 1986 and That scan was for 1980-1982? Mine is an in dash unit. Are the the same? Can we get a more clear scan of parts list or instructions?
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1961 Westfalia SO34 T/BW
1961 Westfalia SO34 SWR
1964 Westfalia SO33 pearl white
1965 Westfalia SO42 Velvet green
1986 Syncro Wolfram grey with black int GL
1986 Syncro Doka
1987 Syncro Sevana beige Adventurewagen
1987 syncro Sevana beige GL
1973 Pumpkin orange Thing
2 1963 Rag top bug's
1965 Manx
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Jedi
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need to figure out the correct place for the compressor wire to go. I have 3 switch's. Can some one tell me the correct way to hook this up if they have a similar set up?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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1961 Westfalia SO34 T/BW
1961 Westfalia SO34 SWR
1964 Westfalia SO33 pearl white
1965 Westfalia SO42 Velvet green
1986 Syncro Wolfram grey with black int GL
1986 Syncro Doka
1987 Syncro Sevana beige Adventurewagen
1987 syncro Sevana beige GL
1973 Pumpkin orange Thing
2 1963 Rag top bug's
1965 Manx
1970 Single cab
1971 combi
1990 Vanagon GL
2007 Audi A4 3.2L quattro
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Jedi
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have all the kinks worked out. This thing is sweet. It should be real nice on those hot drives to have cool AC in our faces. Cool
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1961 Westfalia SO34 T/BW
1961 Westfalia SO34 SWR
1964 Westfalia SO33 pearl white
1965 Westfalia SO42 Velvet green
1986 Syncro Wolfram grey with black int GL
1986 Syncro Doka
1987 Syncro Sevana beige Adventurewagen
1987 syncro Sevana beige GL
1973 Pumpkin orange Thing
2 1963 Rag top bug's
1965 Manx
1970 Single cab
1971 combi
1990 Vanagon GL
2007 Audi A4 3.2L quattro
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dixoncj
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jedi - what refrigerant are you using?
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Jedi
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the AC Retro Fit to R134A. This was done in 2007. when should I have it charged again Question
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1961 Westfalia SO34 T/BW
1961 Westfalia SO34 SWR
1964 Westfalia SO33 pearl white
1965 Westfalia SO42 Velvet green
1986 Syncro Wolfram grey with black int GL
1986 Syncro Doka
1987 Syncro Sevana beige Adventurewagen
1987 syncro Sevana beige GL
1973 Pumpkin orange Thing
2 1963 Rag top bug's
1965 Manx
1970 Single cab
1971 combi
1990 Vanagon GL
2007 Audi A4 3.2L quattro
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wildenbeast
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am finally starting this project on my van. After initially buying an incomplete unit, I was able to pull everything from another Samba member's van this past Saturday. I have many photos, but the important ones are here; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php?...t_dir=DESC

My plan is to install this unit with a new dryer, new ac lines and fittings, a new expansion valve, new ducting, and possibly new blower fans.

First question: In another thread (VW Vortex) someone said that you could replace the blower fans on the evaporator with Spal units that use less amperage and are quieter. Anyone have any idea how to source the correct units? There is no part number listed on the blowers. Even if I knew the part number, how would I determine which Spal fan to use?

Second question: Since I cannot use R12, I will need to clean out the old gunk with mineral oil. Once this is done, what is the best way to remove all the oil?

While the dash is out, I also plan to replace the passenger side wiper shaft that I broke, the front heater core (since they're available again), heater clips, 3m foam for the heater core, the heater blower, clean all grounds, replace the ignition switch, and install insulation on the inside of the nose section of the van. I am considering replacing my wiper squirters as well. I will definitely clean all the climate control cables and housing too.

Third question: When replacing the blower, do people have a preference over getting a stock Vanagon one or the Porsche 944 blower? Anything else worth replacing that hasn't already been mentioned in this thread?; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2...light=dash

Fourth question: I labeled most of the electrical when removing it from the donor van. One wire I can't seem to recall where it will go is this one (the short red wire with white accent coming off the fuse panel with a black clip on its end). It is on the left side of the image:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Anyone know where this one belongs?

Final questions: When replacing the AC ducts, I plan to use this hose: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/212/=iymvk9
Anyone have another product that would be better? Also, has anyone re-routed the fresh air intakes towards their in-dash AC system? This seems like it would be better than using recirculated hot cabin air.

Bill
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wildenbeast wrote:
...Since I cannot use R12,...


Just curious... why can't you?
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r39o
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahwahnee wrote:
wildenbeast wrote:
...Since I cannot use R12,...


Just curious... why can't you?

He could, I bet he does not want to pay for it.

It is too far to drive to the next country South to get it?

Redtek is pretty inexpensive......
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

r39o wrote:
Ahwahnee wrote:
wildenbeast wrote:
...Since I cannot use R12,...


Just curious... why can't you?

He could, I bet he does not want to pay for it.

It is too far to drive to the next country South to get it?

Redtek is pretty inexpensive......


R12 on ebay looks to be about 20 bucks a can (more or less). Sure that is more than the alternatives and it must be used responsibly but doesn't that mean a total system fill will be about 100 bucks?

Not cheap but when you think of what it costs to fill-up at the gas pump a couple of times, not a fortune.

I'm not dissing Redtek (haven't used it) but just saying that R12 isn't the liquid gold many seem to think it is.
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wildenbeast
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really thought that the R12 wasn't supposed to be used anymore, for environmental reasons. I would be open to use it, but need to look into it more.
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe it is no longer being manufactured for distribution to consumers in the US and elsewhere (have heard that the military still uses it, e.g. the Navy) but the existing stockpiles and R12 recovered from serviced or converted systems is still a legal supply.

Yes, there are environmental concerns, especially if the system is leaking, and these must be considered by the end user -- but the expense aspect may not be as big an obstacle as once thought.
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wildenbeast
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am pretty far along in my install now and have a question. I have seen a few different Behr units now and this one seems to have two drain lines. Most seem to only have one.

In the instruction manual, it says to "Cut an opening in the floor grommet in the tunnel located under the heater box and insert the condensation drain tube. Route the tube behind the R.H. heater outlet and connect to the evaporator drain".

From my photos of the vehicle that I removed this AC unit from, it does not appear that they routed the drain lines here. However, I unfortunately did not get a great photo that shows where they were routed. Can anyone tell me how you did yours? I highlighted the two drain locations in the photo below.

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Bill
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BenT Syncro
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bill,

Do you have a photo of the hoses that exit at the floor level? Just wondering if you might have a DPD rather than a Behr. They look similar except for the fittings. For ex. Behr used a large brass block fitting whilst DPD requires two round holes -- much easier not to screw up. Wink

I've had a half dozen indash Behr's and they all looked alike to me. When I found something looking slightly different, it turned out to be a DPD. The only other different Behr I bought turned not to be an indash unit but an underseat AC.
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Wellington
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 4:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have an entire Behr unit in my basement, one day it will get installed,replacing the current rear Westy AC.
I have the dual drain hoses, and mine is defiantly marked Behr.
My compressor is different than the one posted, the hose conections are vertical, as opposed to the posted ones coming off the rear.

There must be a few varieties.
Now to answer the wiring question.....tonight I stretch my harness out and figure out what goes where for ya.

Google in dash vanagon behr. you will get a sight with both the installation manual and a parts manual.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wellington wrote:
I have an entire Behr unit in my basement, one day it will get installed,replacing the current rear Westy AC.
I have the dual drain hoses, and mine is defiantly marked Behr.
My compressor is different than the one posted, the hose conections are vertical, as opposed to the posted ones coming off the rear.

There must be a few varieties.
Now to answer the wiring question.....tonight I stretch my harness out and figure out what goes where for ya.

Google in dash vanagon behr. you will get a sight with both the installation manual and a parts manual.


If it's the document with a card from Harold Brooks stapled to the corner, I've had copies of that from the late Warren Chapman when he installed a Behr indash some ten years ago. I also have an original copy of the underseat unit but have not had time to scan it.

Compressor and ancillary parts do not really matter as the main reason people want the indash Behr is because it is an inexpensive alternative to using a custom system such as those on hotrods and kitcars. Blake Heinlein installed such a system in his Westy. VanmanbajaDan had a similar system in his Syncro Westy.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recall a "T" and an "L" fitting that connected the two and then drained out the cabin through a hose through the body.
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wildenbeast
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This makes the most sense from the length of the hoses that I pulled from the other van. Is there a reason why I shouldn't route it as instructed?
"Cut an opening in the floor grommet in the tunnel located under the heater box and insert the condensation drain tube. Route the tube behind the R.H. heater outlet and connect to the evaporator drain".

I am wondering why you would route the drain line over the radiator and fan? Thanks for all the responses.

Bill

rsxsr wrote:
I recall a "T" and an "L" fitting that connected the two and then drained out the cabin through a hose through the body.

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