34 Pict 3 will not idle

[bernieohio]

I have a 34 Pict-3 Carb that I cannot get to idle. The engine stalls as soon as the car is warmed up and the choke fully opens. I have done the following on the car.

1) Adjusted the valves
2) Adjusted the timing
3) Rebuilt the carb
4) Replaced the Cut-Off Valve, the original was not working.
5) Checked for vacuum leaks along the carb and manifold. I used propane and starting fluid and could not find an area where the rpm would increase.

When the engine is just ready to stall if I squirt starting fluid into the carb it remains running for a bit.

I am stumped on this. Does anyone have any ideas what else it could be?

[allsidius]

I had the same problem after I started the car after sitting for 8 years, sucked some dirt into the carb. Took out the carb, screwed out all the jets, blew all the channels with carb cleaner and cleaned all the jets with the cleaner and pressure air. Put it together , screwed out air screw and bypass screw 2 turns, fired right up. Didn't have to adjust much to get a nice idle.

Thats what happened to me, Good luck!

[keifernet]

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56411

[lupin..the..3rd]

[TonyPgh]

Not to be an ass here. But, mine sat for a year, before I bought it. I poured Sea Foam in the tank, and it was amazing! It cleaned it right out, and ran perfect, after about 5 minutes of running. Its a cheap try, before you start taking things apart.
_________________
1968 Type 1
https://youtube.com/c/SladesVWBeetle

[lupin..the..3rd]

[learningbymistake]

Not to split more hairs, but he did say cheap, not cheaper

[Frodge]

Check points.

[ashman40]

[bernieohio]

I tired cleaing the idle jet and that was not the problem. I will try manually choking off the carb as suggested to check for leak. Since the car will not idle when warm I had to check for vacuum leaks when the choke was still partially closed.

[bernieohio]

Well I warmed the car up until the choke fully opened. I was then able to keep it running by mostly blocking off the carb opening. So I guess this indicates that I have a vacuum leak. If that is the case I just need to find it.

[allsidius]

Vacuum leaks can be found using a can of start gas with a nozzle pipe, spray around suspicious areas and listen if the revs increases. Good luck again.

[clay ford]

[ashman40]

[bernieohio]

Hi,

First of all I would like to thank everyone for all of your suggestions and advice. I think that I found a leak where the intake manifiold connects to the head. I am installing new metal gaskets and was wondering if I should use gasket sealant with these or not.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Bernie

[mnussbau]

I got the metal gaskets and installed them dry, no sealer...this type.

_________________
Mike
Sold my sedan
Parts...

[volksbug70]

[VeeRoom]

Old as this thread may be, if mine just did this again, I figure someone else may be stubborn enough to still have one of these in service-

maybe.

In my limited breadth of models, I've most often had the DP engine that has this carb on it; just seem to end up with AEs and the like in practice, even if retrofits. Even the 44PHH on an obscure Benz I had were better mixers; so much for smog.

What I found time and again, given the problem being the carb and not points going away or such, was that stupid little nearly-impossible-to-extract idle jet up the right side (innards depending on your variant, I suppose, though I've never had a new one of these so can't really say how they ought be- some were only the one stuck right into the hex-head holder that unscrews first, some I've had are down inside this drilling, can only be reached with your screwdriver for those clever little screws on an XLR connector- read super skinny- and wait 'til you try to pull it out of there once loose, if still fitted to the car, especially the Type 2- the magnet idea is out with brass, and it just sort of wiggles around in there as you coax it along, but you will get it eventually. Try not to drop it as it's drawn out, and avoid shorting any gen/alt hot stud with the screwdriver... A trough of some plastic shim stock, a flexy plastic document cover or such works well to help with both of these issues).

I show it at no. 65 on this German blowup I have of another 34 variant, but that's the bit exactly. Just look for the smallest, worst possible bit accessible to the outside on yours. I haven't seen that part or plug on some of them, presumably the same model carb. Weird as all those different accel pump linkages that either fit or jam you at warp 3 into the alternator.

This little goody will invariably be the cause of no idle setting on mine- either fuel or bypass screw will be useless- and exactly as the choke shuts off (runs great when that's on, though...); it either catches some micro-bit that slipped through from below and jams on it, or, if you've been using the right gas, will actually crust up with the additives in the fuel. I've taken it out to find it crudded up with some white kak that just sort of chipped off when poked. Cleared it out and voila! Idle returns.

I suppose one could yank the whole carb, but I prefer to leave what's well enough alone, not risk dropping even more stuff down the pipe, and the fishing/fiddling with that piece in situ gets down to a pretty predictable, if dumb, routine. Carb off is going to be for an actual decent model next time it occurs anyway.

Apart from that, great carburetor- compared with maybe a drinking straw from a balloon full of gas held at just the right height.

[David_nc_72std]

[VeeRoom]

(to David nc- yes- I have one of those drivers; if not that, then the one from the old Craftsman ignition kit- the one w/all those nasty little stamped flat wrenches- with the edges filed straight seems to fit OK)

An addition to this thing- I'm calling it idle, as it does have a nasty effect on idle to the point of disallowing any adjustment, but technically they call it 'auxiliary', or some say 'crossover'- maybe in the vain hope that it'll get you through that flat spot or some such thing, I dunno. The actual pilot jet is the actually reachable one with the hex head and a number atop, that almost never acts up. That one's clogged on me once over about 6 engines, but this one is evil. Now, it may be that I've the carb running into the opening range of things, but with the base throttle opening set per book with its just touching then 1/x twist the fast cam, this one is still the culprit.

Hahaha...we make good joke on the Volks of the Wagen- here- watch me design in this stupid jet...