Running Hot?

[VWest77]

Ok,

I have been reading the forums for the last few days on heat issues. And now need some reassurance.

I have a new to me 1971 1600dp svda... had trouble with the vacuum retard, so disconnected (plugged the carb, not the canister), timed to 7.5 BDTC.

While I have been making adjustments, I will periodically drive for 10 - 20 minutes, stop and then check things out.

I have a oil temp sensor (PO installed). It never hits 210. Normally runs 180 or cooler.

I have also been checking the rear engine tin, and the oil dipstick. When I was having trouble initially, it was hot hot. Then I thought I had come to some conclusions making it seem much cooler.

Now, I went for a drive, checked it out, and the whole thing seemed really hot. Even the dipstick handle was hot. The oil temp gauge didn't read high... but that doesn't necessarily mean anything.

So, basically I am wondering if type 2's get this hot normally... because I really don't know to be honest. Now I am just second guessing myself over and over. And also, what would you advise me to do to attempt to remedy the problem.

I am considering:
-Double check the engine fan for debris.
-Retard the timing slightly?
-Richen the idle mixture?
-Check for any possibility of vacuum leaks...

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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1973 Thing 1600 T181
1963 Double Cab

[RocketRod]

Do those things you are considering. No exhaust leaks? Is the dipstick to hot to hold? How about using a infrared temp gun. Stop by a local garage and ask if they have one and will check you temp for you. An ACVW will heat soak a bit after a run.
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Why Yes it is a Magic bus!
Common Sense isn't so common.

[VWest77]

No exhaust leaks. The lower part of the dipstick is too hot to hold. The handle is quite hot, but can still manage to hold it.
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1973 Thing 1600 T181
1963 Double Cab

[Randy in Maine]

Is all of the tin work there? Engine to body seal good? Have you tried setting the timing to 28º at about 3500 RPMs?

Where is the oil temp sender mounted at?

[Jody '71]

Your '71 SHOULD have the all important one year only front firewall tin piece. Take some pictures of the engine compartment for us to see.
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'66 Beetle
2011 Hyundai Elantra Touring

[ned]

34 pict 3? I would also check those jets. Be sure thay are not beetle sized.

[VWest77]

[Desertbusman]

It sort of gets to a choice. Seal melting or engine melting. Ok, which seal? Horizontal sides and rear or the vertical front? Putting them in depend on how damaged, bent up and cruddy dirty the seal channels are. If everything is wonderfully clean and nice the worst is that you would have to remove the rear apron. But if it all has been neglected in the past you might have to pull the engine and do a lot of cleanup and straightening of the channels. Busses require some serious work. Some install the double flap rear seal rear seal with one flap above and one flap below the rear tin. I put them both under. Also that seal you want to cut into 3 lengths. One to fit around the apron and 2 to go on the body sides. No gap where they join.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[maximan1]

How long to you wait to touch the dipstick or engine after ending your drive? If you wait a few minutes, the heat that was being pushed out with the cooling air stops getting pushed out and the heat rises and the engine heats up. It's called heat soak.
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1978 Transporter, 2.0L FI

[sped372]

[VWest77]

Ok, so if I can hold the handle, I should be alright? You are probably right, I am just not used to what normal is... but it sure does seem hot (the rear apron/oil dipstick.) The apron should get really hot with the exhaust I suppose... and If you say as long as I can hold the dipstick handle I should be alright.
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1973 Thing 1600 T181
1963 Double Cab

[busdaddy]

Yes the apron and rear tin do get hot, they are right over the muffler. The key here is do your testing immediately when you come to a stop, if it sits anytime heat soaks up into places that aren't that hot when it's driving.
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[sped372]

[Glenn]

[VWest77]

[Randy in Maine]

Remove the hoses and time it when all of the centrifical advance it has in all in (which whould be around 3500 or so) and make that to be about 28-30º BTDC. Tighten it down. Put the hoses back on.

Let it loaf back to idle and set the idle speed. Note the initial timing at idle but don't change it. Go for a ride and see how it does.

[ned]

If it still runs hot you just might want to check your Jetting.

[Jody '71]

You never mentioned what carb is on there; if so, original German Solex 34-3 jetted for Bus??? You imply that you have the original DVDA distributor with the retard port plugged. Is the retard port plugged on the carb? Are you using the '71 only oil bath air filter? That may not make a difference(different year models can be made to work), unless you are using an aftermarket air filter. That may not make a difference either with your high engine temps. Others may disagree.
You also say your timing light whacks out at high rpms. Is the gun faulty, or is your distributor scattering the timing mark so bad that you can't see it??? If you have timing mark scatter, you better consider the condition of the distributor.
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'66 Beetle
2011 Hyundai Elantra Touring

[VWest77]

[VWest77]

Took off the vacuum hose, plugged it, timed maximum centrifugal advance to 28-30 degrees. (I needed to retard my timing a little.)

Just going to run some errands with the bus... so we'll see how it goes.
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1973 Thing 1600 T181
1963 Double Cab