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Difference between sizes Rods
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fusca66
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 12:27 pm    Post subject: Difference between sizes Rods Reply with quote

What changes with the change size in engine of the rods?
HAve many sizes:-5.500"-5.700".....
My engine is 2110, with original Vw rods, if I put one 5.7" the engine that wins it? Torque?
Thank´s
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vdub1971
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you change your rods it will change the rod ratio. The shorter the rod (lower rod ratio) the more efficient the engine with be at low rpm due to increased piston. Speed and the more side load on the pistons and cylinder. Higher ratios (longer rods) and you will have less side load and will not be as efficient at low rpm's. That is the theory anyways.
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jamestwo
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best article on the subject.

http://www.victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm

I like short rods, but ultimalty they limit your Peak HP. I built an engine with wedge port heads, and fairly large cam-FK 45 It ran out of power at 6300 rpm. The rods are so short and piston speed was so high, that it has maximized air flow at the low rpm. I did that because I wanted peak power under 6500 rpm.

Take the same motor, put a longer rod in it and it would have added 800-100 rpm and some HP, but loss low end torque.
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58 Plastic Tub
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamestwo wrote:
I like short rods, but ultimalty they limit your Peak HP. I built an engine with wedge port heads, and fairly large cam-FK 45 It ran out of power at 6300 rpm. The rods are so short and piston speed was so high, that it has maximized air flow at the low rpm. I did that because I wanted peak power under 6500 rpm.

Take the same motor, put a longer rod in it and it would have added 800-100 rpm and some HP, but loss low end torque.


... and would have not been as usable on the street. Torque rules in the real world. Torque coming on quickly is what makes a car fun to drive. Short rods rock on the street.

I'm running a 2332 with Porsche length rods. Short rods necessitate big valves, ports and carbs, but I've got 177 lb ft of torque at 2500 RPM. That feels like big-block chevy power (which is no coincidence, since a big-block has a rod ratio of about 1.63). It's more fun than a barrel of monkeys.
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jamestwo
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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That what i have also, is 2332 with 5.325 rods. Did you use Wisco pistons, or was you able to get the Cima's to work.

I have posted this pic a million times, so for all the regulars excuse me. Here picture of my mock up.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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58 Plastic Tub
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Venolia.
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Bad bug
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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jamestwo i once wanted to build a 2332cc t1 for a daily drive with short rods but when i looked at the rod ratio i was turned off. I read the article that you sent the link for and now you have me thinking again. One of my reasons for not wanting the short rod 2332 was that the pistons wouldn't have much skirting to prevent them from rocking in their bores.

But these pistons seem to have good skirting on them to reduce that. So i was thinking that this engine will and could make 200HP without reving to the moon. I wonder what it would do with 40 x 37.5 valves in the head.
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fusca66
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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank´s all!!!
As I understand the short rods are good for street, to turn up early as the 58Plastic said.
And James said it lost with the torque rods long? I thought he earned in torque. James you know how many hp's gains with long rods?
About the placement of rods on my 5700 motor, I'll have to put a spacer around .300 or .400 right?
Would be a service reliable?
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gerg
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good thread.

I am fixing to start on a 2332 IDA engine in the next few weeks. Was asked about rod length today and it looks like the shorter rod is preferred on the street. As much fun as my 2276 is in my bus, I never take it over 5 - 5.2k RPM, so I doubt I'd ever hit an 'out of power' ceiling if it is 6k or higher.

Any ignition suggestions with IDAs? I figured I'd run the SVDA from Aircooled.net, but understand the IDAs don't have the vacuum port? Sending them to Art Thraen for the progression circuit work - he doesn't know it yet. Wink

Anyhow, what would be a good distributor? Someone was talking up distributor-less crank trigger systems today, but I don't know about any of them as of yet.
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fusca66
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gerg wrote:
Good thread.

I am fixing to start on a 2332 IDA engine in the next few weeks. Was asked about rod length today and it looks like the shorter rod is preferred on the street. As much fun as my 2276 is in my bus, I never take it over 5 - 5.2k RPM, so I doubt I'd ever hit an 'out of power' ceiling if it is 6k or higher.

Any ignition suggestions with IDAs? I figured I'd run the SVDA from Aircooled.net, but understand the IDAs don't have the vacuum port? Sending them to Art Thraen for the progression circuit work - he doesn't know it yet. :wink:

Anyhow, what would be a good distributor? Someone was talking up distributor-less crank trigger systems today, but I don't know about any of them as of yet.


Hello Gerg
Maybe MSD PN8485 :roll:
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gerg wrote:
Any ignition suggestions with IDAs?


Keep it simple and reliable. 010, points and condenser. See Glenn Ring's 2180: http://www.glenn-ring.com/Beetle.html

MSD race type ignitions are, by and large, a waste of money for most street motors. Crank fire has it's benefits but, as they say "Some assembly required".
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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